Aluminum boat info...
 

Hi all,

I'm looking for some info on aluminum boats. I currently have a 21 ft
Seaswirl Striper (fiberglass). It's a good boat...but I want something
that is more appropriate to the weather here in Oregon so I'm looking for
something with an enclosed cabin. And since I'm getting to old and heavy
to be climbing along the outside of a cabin, the walk through windshield
sounds like a good idea. Apparently that limits me to aluminum boats,
although I've no real preference either way. The two models I like so far
are the Hewescraft Ocean Pro and the Weldcraft Ocean King (links below).
If anyone knows of a fiberglass model with similar configurations to those,
please let me know.

http://www.hewescraft.com/2007/oceanpro/index.html

http://www.weldcraftmarine.com/model...cean_king.html

SInce it looks like I'm going aluminum, I'm hoping to get the benefit of
others experience.

One of the significant differences is that the Weldcraft boats have a
"marine grade plywood" floor while I believe the Hewescraft boats have an
aluminum floor. Although the Weldcraft boats certainly look nice in the
pictures, my first impression on the plywood was that they were cutting
some corners to make it cheaper. Or am I wrong there? A wooden floor
would certainly be easier to remove than a welded floor should any under
floor maintenance be required. So I'm hoping to hear what people who have
actually owned an aluminum boat think about the pros and cons of each.

Another probably stupid question is regarding the corrosion issue. I've
heard the story of the copper penny eating through the hull. While I'm not
planning on experimenting with a $60,000 boat...it does make me wonder how
expensive that sort of thing would be to repair.

Also, I've heard that corrosion is less of an issue for boats that are
trailered. I'm figuring on every other weekend in the water, with about a
70/30 split between salt and fresh water...plus maybe two weeks a year
moored in salt water during the summer salmon season. I've heard that I
should use magnesium in fresh water and a less noble aluminum in salt
water. So...for a boat that goes back and forth...do I need to swap them
out, use both, or just use one or the other?

Ray in Oregon

Aluminum boat info...
 

wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I'm looking for some info on aluminum boats. I currently have a 21 ft
Seaswirl Striper (fiberglass). It's a good boat...but I want something
that is more appropriate to the weather here in Oregon so I'm looking for
something with an enclosed cabin. And since I'm getting to old and heavy
to be climbing along the outside of a cabin, the walk through windshield
sounds like a good idea. Apparently that limits me to aluminum boats,
although I've no real preference either way. The two models I like so far
are the Hewescraft Ocean Pro and the Weldcraft Ocean King (links below).
If anyone knows of a fiberglass model with similar configurations to
those,
please let me know.

http://www.hewescraft.com/2007/oceanpro/index.html

http://www.weldcraftmarine.com/model...cean_king.html

SInce it looks like I'm going aluminum, I'm hoping to get the benefit of
others experience.

One of the significant differences is that the Weldcraft boats have a
"marine grade plywood" floor while I believe the Hewescraft boats have an
aluminum floor. Although the Weldcraft boats certainly look nice in the
pictures, my first impression on the plywood was that they were cutting
some corners to make it cheaper. Or am I wrong there? A wooden floor
would certainly be easier to remove than a welded floor should any under
floor maintenance be required. So I'm hoping to hear what people who have
actually owned an aluminum boat think about the pros and cons of each.

Another probably stupid question is regarding the corrosion issue. I've
heard the story of the copper penny eating through the hull. While I'm
not
planning on experimenting with a $60,000 boat...it does make me wonder how
expensive that sort of thing would be to repair.

Also, I've heard that corrosion is less of an issue for boats that are
trailered. I'm figuring on every other weekend in the water, with about a
70/30 split between salt and fresh water...plus maybe two weeks a year
moored in salt water during the summer salmon season. I've heard that I
should use magnesium in fresh water and a less noble aluminum in salt
water. So...for a boat that goes back and forth...do I need to swap them
out, use both, or just use one or the other?

Ray in Oregon

Lots of the makers make hardtops as well as Alaskan Cabins. Look at
http://www.riverjetmagazine.com and look at their online magazine for links.
Look at http://www.precisionweldboats.com/ for really nice boats. More
expensive than your present boat.

Aluminum boat info...
 

Don White wrote:

Down this way, I'd look closely at the Seabreeze line. I've seen them at a
boat show and really like the classic look.
http://seabreezeboats.ca/styles.html



The topic is *aluminum* boats, dummy.

Aluminum boat info...
 

Hi,

Interesting name for a boating web site...but they do have some good
resources.

16 years seems like a pretty reasonable life span for a wood floor in a
boat. And plywood, even marine grade, isn't that expensive. Did you
replace it yourself or have it done? I'd think it would be difficult to
get a good enough fit to keep stuff from slipping between the cracks. I
crab a lot and am constantly cleaning up seaweed. I imagine that would get
pretty nasty if it managed to get under the floors.

And you say you run both fresh and salt. Do you swap out the anodes, or is
it not something to worry about if it's only in the water for a day at a
time?

Also...you keep steering me towards jets. I understand why they're a
necessity for smaller rivers...but I'm figuring on just the Columbia, bays
and ocean. But I'm curious of how they compare performance wise with
propeller boats. Do they handle any different?

Again...thanks for the info.

Ray

Aluminum boat info...
 

Hi,

Yeah...I'm not sure an electric windlass would be an option. For sturgeon
fishing I have a quick disconnect so I can follow the fish when I've got
one hooked. I'm not sure that would work with an electric windlass.

I'm also not sure it would drop fast enough in the river. I typically have
to run out some 150 feet of line easy, and with the current if it doesn't
drop fast it will get swept down river. Although a better anchor would
probably help with that. Most people have the rake style, but I currently
don't spend that much time on the river so I cheaped on and still have the
v shaped. I have a heck of a time getting it to hold in fast current.
Anyone have any experience trying to use a windlass in fast water?

But yeah...it doesn't take long for pulling in the anchor to get old. And
I have one of the buoys that pulls it up for you.

Thanks,

Ray

Aluminum boat info...
 

Well...I did ask if anyone knew of any fiberglass boats with cabins and walk
through windshields...so it was a reasonable response. The link had
both...just not in the same boat. But I'd generally rather get too much
advice than not enough.

Ray

Aluminum boat info...
 

Hi,

Yeah...I've seen the Parkers...they're nice boats. A comparable brand out
here is Defiance, although they don't go quite as large. I was drooling
over one of those the first time I was caught out in the rain crabbing.
But for quality, I'm actually pretty happy with my Seaswirl striper. Of
course it doesn't have an enclosed pilot house or the walk through
windshield...but otherwise it's a great boat. When I was comparing boats
at a boat show...I kept going back and forth between the seaswirl striper
and the bayliner trophy. The seaswirl guy brought me up to the side of the
bow and told me to push in to see how much flex there was. Then he told me
to go try that with the bayliner. I bought the seaswirl. It had virtually
no flex...but I could push in nearly 2 inches on the bayliner. He claimed
there is a reason they call them "bay...liners".

Ray



http://www.defianceboats.com/

Aluminum boat info...
 

wrote in message
...
Hi,

Interesting name for a boating web site...but they do have some good
resources.

16 years seems like a pretty reasonable life span for a wood floor in a
boat. And plywood, even marine grade, isn't that expensive. Did you
replace it yourself or have it done? I'd think it would be difficult to
get a good enough fit to keep stuff from slipping between the cracks. I
crab a lot and am constantly cleaning up seaweed. I imagine that would
get
pretty nasty if it managed to get under the floors.

And you say you run both fresh and salt. Do you swap out the anodes, or
is
it not something to worry about if it's only in the water for a day at a
time?

Also...you keep steering me towards jets. I understand why they're a
necessity for smaller rivers...but I'm figuring on just the Columbia, bays
and ocean. But I'm curious of how they compare performance wise with
propeller boats. Do they handle any different?

Again...thanks for the info.

Ray

Lots of the jet boat makers make prop boats also. I leave zincs on all the
time. I have extra bolted to the back transom lip. I have left it up to a
week in SoCal sal****er. And Canadian waters. I replaced the floor myself.
Took the old boards out and traced them to the new boards, and got Nautilex
vinyl flooring from Cabelas and glued it down. There is lots of
understructure to the boats. Very little gets between the boards, except
water.

Aluminum boat info...
 

wrote in message
...
Well...I did ask if anyone knew of any fiberglass boats with cabins and
walk
through windshields...so it was a reasonable response. The link had
both...just not in the same boat. But I'd generally rather get too much
advice than not enough.

Ray

A voice of reason ! Hope you stick around.

Aluminum boat info...
 

On Sep 28, 4:55*pm, wrote:
Hi all,

* * * * I'm looking for some info on aluminum boats. *I currently have a 21 ft
* * * * Seaswirl Striper (fiberglass). *It's a good boat...but I want something
* * * * that is more appropriate to the weather here in Oregon so I'm looking for
* * * * something with an enclosed cabin. *And since I'm getting to old and heavy
* * * * to be climbing along the outside of a cabin, the walk through windshield
* * * * sounds like a good idea. *Apparently that limits me to aluminum boats,
* * * * although I've no real preference either way. *The two models I like so far
* * * * are the Hewescraft Ocean Pro and the Weldcraft Ocean King (links below).
* * * * If anyone knows of a fiberglass model with similar configurations to those,
* * * * please let me know.

http://www.hewescraft.com/2007/oceanpro/index.html

http://www.weldcraftmarine.com/model...cean_king.html

* * * * SInce it looks like I'm going aluminum, I'm hoping to get the benefit of
* * * * others experience.

* * * * One of the significant differences is that the Weldcraft boats have a
* * * * "marine grade plywood" floor while I believe the Hewescraft boats have an
* * * * aluminum floor. *Although the Weldcraft boats certainly look nice in the
* * * * pictures, my first impression on the plywood was that they were cutting
* * * * some corners to make it cheaper. *Or am I wrong there? *A wooden floor
* * * * would certainly be easier to remove than a welded floor should any under
* * * * floor maintenance be required. *So I'm hoping to hear what people who have
* * * * actually owned an aluminum boat think about the pros and cons of each.

* * * * Another probably stupid question is regarding the corrosion issue. *I've
* * * * heard the story of the copper penny eating through the hull. *While I'm not
* * * * planning on experimenting with a $60,000 boat...it does make me wonder how
* * * * expensive that sort of thing would be to repair.

* * * * Also, I've heard that corrosion is less of an issue for boats that are
* * * * trailered. *I'm figuring on every other weekend in the water, with about a
* * * * 70/30 split between salt and fresh water...plus maybe two weeks a year
* * * * moored in salt water during the summer salmon season. *I've heard that I
* * * * should use magnesium in fresh water and a less noble aluminum in salt
* * * * water. *So...for a boat that goes back and forth...do I need to swap them
* * * * out, use both, or just use one or the other?

Ray in Oregon

Ray,

If you are 70% in salt and 30% in fresh use Aluminum. Your primary
concern must be protecting your boat in the most corrosive water
type... salt. And.. who want to change their anodes each time? Mag
anodes work great but for fresh water only. If you use them in salt
you will actually see them working like an anti-acid puck. So avoid
Magnesium if you touch salt or even brackish water. Your anodes will
not waste away very quickly if you trailer your boat. It takes
approx. 24 hours for the the cell to stablize anyway. I have 20 years
experience in the pleasurecraft corrosion field.

Aluminum boat info...
 

Aluminum boat info...
 

"Chris Pauwels" wrote in message
...
On Sep 28, 4:55 pm, wrote:
Hi all,

I'm looking for some info on aluminum boats. I currently have a 21 ft
Seaswirl Striper (fiberglass). It's a good boat...but I want something
that is more appropriate to the weather here in Oregon so I'm looking for
something with an enclosed cabin. And since I'm getting to old and heavy
to be climbing along the outside of a cabin, the walk through windshield
sounds like a good idea. Apparently that limits me to aluminum boats,
although I've no real preference either way. The two models I like so far
are the Hewescraft Ocean Pro and the Weldcraft Ocean King (links below).
If anyone knows of a fiberglass model with similar configurations to
those,
please let me know.

http://www.hewescraft.com/2007/oceanpro/index.html

http://www.weldcraftmarine.com/model...cean_king.html

SInce it looks like I'm going aluminum, I'm hoping to get the benefit of
others experience.

One of the significant differences is that the Weldcraft boats have a
"marine grade plywood" floor while I believe the Hewescraft boats have an
aluminum floor. Although the Weldcraft boats certainly look nice in the
pictures, my first impression on the plywood was that they were cutting
some corners to make it cheaper. Or am I wrong there? A wooden floor
would certainly be easier to remove than a welded floor should any under
floor maintenance be required. So I'm hoping to hear what people who have
actually owned an aluminum boat think about the pros and cons of each.

Another probably stupid question is regarding the corrosion issue. I've
heard the story of the copper penny eating through the hull. While I'm not
planning on experimenting with a $60,000 boat...it does make me wonder how
expensive that sort of thing would be to repair.

Also, I've heard that corrosion is less of an issue for boats that are
trailered. I'm figuring on every other weekend in the water, with about a
70/30 split between salt and fresh water...plus maybe two weeks a year
moored in salt water during the summer salmon season. I've heard that I
should use magnesium in fresh water and a less noble aluminum in salt
water. So...for a boat that goes back and forth...do I need to swap them
out, use both, or just use one or the other?

Ray in Oregon

Ray,

If you are 70% in salt and 30% in fresh use Aluminum. Your primary
concern must be protecting your boat in the most corrosive water
type... salt. And.. who want to change their anodes each time? Mag
anodes work great but for fresh water only. If you use them in salt
you will actually see them working like an anti-acid puck. So avoid
Magnesium if you touch salt or even brackish water. Your anodes will
not waste away very quickly if you trailer your boat. It takes
approx. 24 hours for the the cell to stablize anyway. I have 20 years
experience in the pleasurecraft corrosion field.

Reply:

Copper in an aluminum boat will set up a battery in salt water. It will
corrode through. The only hole in my boat in 18 years was in the anchor
locker where a piece of copper wire lodge in a plugged limber hole. Cost me
$100 to have the hole TIG welded by a real expert at TIG. I have an
aluminum spool gun and do weld aluminum. but sometimes it pays tio hire an
artist.

Aluminum boat info...
 

I'm looking for some info on aluminum boats. I currently have a 21 ft
Seaswirl Striper (fiberglass). It's a good boat...but I want something
that is more appropriate to the weather here in Oregon so I'm looking
for
something with an enclosed cabin. And since I'm getting to old and heavy
to be climbing along the outside of a cabin, the walk through windshield
sounds like a good idea. Apparently that limits me to aluminum boats,
although I've no real preference either way. The two models I like so
far
are the Hewescraft Ocean Pro and the Weldcraft Ocean King (links below).
If anyone knows of a fiberglass model with similar configurations to
those,
please let me know.

http://www.hewescraft.com/2007/oceanpro/index.html

http://www.weldcraftmarine.com/model...cean_king.html

SInce it looks like I'm going aluminum, I'm hoping to get the benefit of
others experience.

One of the significant differences is that the Weldcraft boats have a
"marine grade plywood" floor while I believe the Hewescraft boats have
an
aluminum floor. Although the Weldcraft boats certainly look nice in the
pictures, my first impression on the plywood was that they were cutting
some corners to make it cheaper. Or am I wrong there? A wooden floor
would certainly be easier to remove than a welded floor should any under
floor maintenance be required. So I'm hoping to hear what people who
have
actually owned an aluminum boat think about the pros and cons of each.

Another probably stupid question is regarding the corrosion issue. I've
heard the story of the copper penny eating through the hull. While I'm
not
planning on experimenting with a $60,000 boat...it does make me wonder
how
expensive that sort of thing would be to repair.

Also, I've heard that corrosion is less of an issue for boats that are
trailered. I'm figuring on every other weekend in the water, with about
a
70/30 split between salt and fresh water...plus maybe two weeks a year
moored in salt water during the summer salmon season. I've heard that I
should use magnesium in fresh water and a less noble aluminum in salt
water. So...for a boat that goes back and forth...do I need to swap them
out, use both, or just use one or the other?

Ray in Oregon

Ray,

If you are 70% in salt and 30% in fresh use Aluminum. Your primary
concern must be protecting your boat in the most corrosive water
type... salt. And.. who want to change their anodes each time? Mag
anodes work great but for fresh water only. If you use them in salt
you will actually see them working like an anti-acid puck. So avoid
Magnesium if you touch salt or even brackish water. Your anodes will
not waste away very quickly if you trailer your boat. It takes
approx. 24 hours for the the cell to stablize anyway. I have 20 years
experience in the pleasurecraft corrosion field.

Reply:

Copper in an aluminum boat will set up a battery in salt water. It will
corrode through. The only hole in my boat in 18 years was in the anchor
locker where a piece of copper wire lodge in a plugged limber hole. Cost
me
$100 to have the hole TIG welded by a real expert at TIG. I have an
aluminum spool gun and do weld aluminum. but sometimes it pays tio hire an

artist.

Yeah...that's kind of my concern. A stray piece of wire or what not getting
dropped somewhere. That's why I'm so curious about the wood floor. A wood
floor would be a safe place to set something metal...but it would also
provide cracks and crevices for smaller stuff to hide in.

So, in the case of the wire in the anchor locker, the hole there was the
only damage? While I'm sure it's not fun, just having a small hole welded
doesn't sound so bad. I've heard people talk about the entire hull getting
thin. But I think I'm confusing the potential problems and causes. So, to
recap...there are two basic concerns:

One is corrosion caused by contact between dissimilar metals, which can
occur in or out of the water? And prevention requires special coatings or
other protective separation between the metals. I've heard people say that
it's ok to use stainless steel screws. Or does that still require some sort
of treatment? I'm thinking mounting stuff like rod holders and such. If I
use stainless steel screws, is it as simple as drill and screw?

And the other concern is electrolysis. It is more common in salt water, but
will also happen in fresh water. If not controlled, it will cause a
thinning of the hull wherever the hull is in contact with the water. It's
controlled by the proper anodes, and a trailered boat will allow the anodes
to last longer because the of the reduced water time. Would water
accumulation inside the boat, such as rain water, cause the same reaction
even if it's on the trailer?

Thanks again to everyone.

Aluminum boat info...
 

On Fri, 2 Oct 2009 05:41:37 GMT, wrote:


I'm looking for some info on aluminum boats. I currently have a 21 ft
Seaswirl Striper (fiberglass). It's a good boat...but I want something
that is more appropriate to the weather here in Oregon so I'm looking
for
something with an enclosed cabin. And since I'm getting to old and heavy
to be climbing along the outside of a cabin, the walk through windshield
sounds like a good idea. Apparently that limits me to aluminum boats,
although I've no real preference either way. The two models I like so
far
are the Hewescraft Ocean Pro and the Weldcraft Ocean King (links below).
If anyone knows of a fiberglass model with similar configurations to
those,
please let me know.

http://www.hewescraft.com/2007/oceanpro/index.html

http://www.weldcraftmarine.com/model...cean_king.html

SInce it looks like I'm going aluminum, I'm hoping to get the benefit of
others experience.

One of the significant differences is that the Weldcraft boats have a
"marine grade plywood" floor while I believe the Hewescraft boats have
an
aluminum floor. Although the Weldcraft boats certainly look nice in the
pictures, my first impression on the plywood was that they were cutting
some corners to make it cheaper. Or am I wrong there? A wooden floor
would certainly be easier to remove than a welded floor should any under
floor maintenance be required. So I'm hoping to hear what people who
have
actually owned an aluminum boat think about the pros and cons of each.

Another probably stupid question is regarding the corrosion issue. I've
heard the story of the copper penny eating through the hull. While I'm
not
planning on experimenting with a $60,000 boat...it does make me wonder
how
expensive that sort of thing would be to repair.

Also, I've heard that corrosion is less of an issue for boats that are
trailered. I'm figuring on every other weekend in the water, with about
a
70/30 split between salt and fresh water...plus maybe two weeks a year
moored in salt water during the summer salmon season. I've heard that I
should use magnesium in fresh water and a less noble aluminum in salt
water. So...for a boat that goes back and forth...do I need to swap them
out, use both, or just use one or the other?

Ray in Oregon

Ray,

If you are 70% in salt and 30% in fresh use Aluminum. Your primary
concern must be protecting your boat in the most corrosive water
type... salt. And.. who want to change their anodes each time? Mag
anodes work great but for fresh water only. If you use them in salt
you will actually see them working like an anti-acid puck. So avoid
Magnesium if you touch salt or even brackish water. Your anodes will
not waste away very quickly if you trailer your boat. It takes
approx. 24 hours for the the cell to stablize anyway. I have 20 years
experience in the pleasurecraft corrosion field.

Reply:

Copper in an aluminum boat will set up a battery in salt water. It will
corrode through. The only hole in my boat in 18 years was in the anchor
locker where a piece of copper wire lodge in a plugged limber hole. Cost
me
$100 to have the hole TIG welded by a real expert at TIG. I have an
aluminum spool gun and do weld aluminum. but sometimes it pays tio hire an

artist.

Yeah...that's kind of my concern. A stray piece of wire or what not getting
dropped somewhere. That's why I'm so curious about the wood floor. A wood
floor would be a safe place to set something metal...but it would also
provide cracks and crevices for smaller stuff to hide in.

So, in the case of the wire in the anchor locker, the hole there was the
only damage? While I'm sure it's not fun, just having a small hole welded
doesn't sound so bad. I've heard people talk about the entire hull getting
thin. But I think I'm confusing the potential problems and causes. So, to
recap...there are two basic concerns:

One is corrosion caused by contact between dissimilar metals, which can
occur in or out of the water? And prevention requires special coatings or
other protective separation between the metals. I've heard people say that
it's ok to use stainless steel screws. Or does that still require some sort
of treatment? I'm thinking mounting stuff like rod holders and such. If I
use stainless steel screws, is it as simple as drill and screw?

And the other concern is electrolysis. It is more common in salt water, but
will also happen in fresh water. If not controlled, it will cause a
thinning of the hull wherever the hull is in contact with the water. It's
controlled by the proper anodes, and a trailered boat will allow the anodes
to last longer because the of the reduced water time. Would water
accumulation inside the boat, such as rain water, cause the same reaction
even if it's on the trailer?

Thanks again to everyone.

The drain plug, if the bow is high, should drain rainwater. Just don't
leave the plug in when the boat is sitting on the trailer!
--
John H

All decisions, even those of liberals, are the result of binary thinking.

Aluminum boat info...
 

wrote in message
...

I'm looking for some info on aluminum boats. I currently have a 21 ft
Seaswirl Striper (fiberglass). It's a good boat...but I want something
that is more appropriate to the weather here in Oregon so I'm looking
for
something with an enclosed cabin. And since I'm getting to old and
heavy
to be climbing along the outside of a cabin, the walk through
windshield
sounds like a good idea. Apparently that limits me to aluminum boats,
although I've no real preference either way. The two models I like so
far
are the Hewescraft Ocean Pro and the Weldcraft Ocean King (links
below).
If anyone knows of a fiberglass model with similar configurations to
those,
please let me know.

http://www.hewescraft.com/2007/oceanpro/index.html

http://www.weldcraftmarine.com/model...cean_king.html

SInce it looks like I'm going aluminum, I'm hoping to get the benefit
of
others experience.

One of the significant differences is that the Weldcraft boats have a
"marine grade plywood" floor while I believe the Hewescraft boats have
an
aluminum floor. Although the Weldcraft boats certainly look nice in the
pictures, my first impression on the plywood was that they were cutting
some corners to make it cheaper. Or am I wrong there? A wooden floor
would certainly be easier to remove than a welded floor should any
under
floor maintenance be required. So I'm hoping to hear what people who
have
actually owned an aluminum boat think about the pros and cons of each.

Another probably stupid question is regarding the corrosion issue. I've
heard the story of the copper penny eating through the hull. While I'm
not
planning on experimenting with a $60,000 boat...it does make me wonder
how
expensive that sort of thing would be to repair.

Also, I've heard that corrosion is less of an issue for boats that are
trailered. I'm figuring on every other weekend in the water, with about
a
70/30 split between salt and fresh water...plus maybe two weeks a year
moored in salt water during the summer salmon season. I've heard that I
should use magnesium in fresh water and a less noble aluminum in salt
water. So...for a boat that goes back and forth...do I need to swap
them
out, use both, or just use one or the other?

Ray in Oregon

Ray,

If you are 70% in salt and 30% in fresh use Aluminum. Your primary
concern must be protecting your boat in the most corrosive water
type... salt. And.. who want to change their anodes each time? Mag
anodes work great but for fresh water only. If you use them in salt
you will actually see them working like an anti-acid puck. So avoid
Magnesium if you touch salt or even brackish water. Your anodes will
not waste away very quickly if you trailer your boat. It takes
approx. 24 hours for the the cell to stablize anyway. I have 20 years
experience in the pleasurecraft corrosion field.

Reply:

Copper in an aluminum boat will set up a battery in salt water. It will
corrode through. The only hole in my boat in 18 years was in the anchor
locker where a piece of copper wire lodge in a plugged limber hole. Cost
me
$100 to have the hole TIG welded by a real expert at TIG. I have an
aluminum spool gun and do weld aluminum. but sometimes it pays tio hire
an

artist.

Yeah...that's kind of my concern. A stray piece of wire or what not
getting
dropped somewhere. That's why I'm so curious about the wood floor. A
wood
floor would be a safe place to set something metal...but it would also
provide cracks and crevices for smaller stuff to hide in.

So, in the case of the wire in the anchor locker, the hole there was the
only damage? While I'm sure it's not fun, just having a small hole welded
doesn't sound so bad. I've heard people talk about the entire hull
getting
thin. But I think I'm confusing the potential problems and causes. So,
to
recap...there are two basic concerns:

One is corrosion caused by contact between dissimilar metals, which can
occur in or out of the water? And prevention requires special coatings or
other protective separation between the metals. I've heard people say
that
it's ok to use stainless steel screws. Or does that still require some
sort
of treatment? I'm thinking mounting stuff like rod holders and such. If
I
use stainless steel screws, is it as simple as drill and screw?

And the other concern is electrolysis. It is more common in salt water,
but
will also happen in fresh water. If not controlled, it will cause a
thinning of the hull wherever the hull is in contact with the water. It's
controlled by the proper anodes, and a trailered boat will allow the
anodes
to last longer because the of the reduced water time. Would water
accumulation inside the boat, such as rain water, cause the same reaction
even if it's on the trailer?

Thanks again to everyone.

My hull is 3/16" thick on the bottom and does not look like any corrosion
inside, when I pulled and replaced the fuel tank after 16 years. Had a
corrosion problem on the top where the CCA treated wood touched the
aluminum. Was $885 delivered to the local truck depot for a new tank.
There are a few corrosion spots, but mostly where some salt is under the
painted part. The hole was a small 1/8" hole and I knew I had a leak as the
bilge was getting some water. Could not find the leak, until I had the boat
on the trailer and the nose was pointed downhill and some water was running
out. Lots of aluminum boats in Alaska, most of them in fact that are
trailered up on the Kenai peninsula.

Aluminum boat info...
 

On 1-Oct-2009, wrote:

Stainless and aluminum do not get along. There are some teflon pastes
that help the problem but you can still have electrolysis.
The alloy of the stainless does seem to make a difference. It seems
stuff on the 316 side is worse than the 304 side.
I have some pictures of things that were bad and things that seemed
somewhat benign in the same aluminum rail.

Hmmm...

So what's the best way to mount stuff? I can't imagine aluminum screws
would be very strong, even if the make them. Or do you just use stainless
(or some alternative) with some sort of inhibitor, and hope for the best?

And I'm guessing that once corrosion starts, you remove the offending screw,
have it drilled and patched (welded), and then drill and screw again? At
least it's relatively easily patched. That's certainly better than
repairing fiberglass.

And given the popularity of aluminum boats, this must not be as regular a
problem as I'm making out to be.

Thanks

Ray