|
Volvo Penta 4.3L 1999 120 HP. Mixed Oil + Water Engine.
I winterized the boat early last fall, removed both screws that goes
behind the manifold, the two screws on each side on the block and the inlet and outlet hoses(learned that with a marine mechanic). Have been doing this for the last 4 years, no problem and this last winter was mild down here in OK. Yesterday, first time I take the boat to the lake and after a few hours in the lake, getting ready to load the boat back home I noticed the engine beeping and almost cutting off on idle. Opened the engine compartment and noticed oil and water mixed (milky combination) flowing out of the top of the carburator area. Talking about a shocking experience here!!! Pulled the dipstick and the mix of oil and water is all the way to the top. I am praying for a blown gasket, but all the posts I ready point to a crack on the engine. Also I had to get something on the engine area a few minutes before riding back to the dock and did not see any problems or oi +water overflowing. So it seems like it happened on the way back to the dock. But it could be running like that since we got to the lake. I am not a mechanic, but I would think if I got the water out of the block, manifolds and pump hoses, at least if it is a cracked engine, it should not be in the block. What do you think. I saw a lot of water come out of that engine. Where else would water be hidding enough to crack the engine ? Or could it be something else ? I would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks in advance. |
Volvo Penta 4.3L 1999 120 HP. Mixed Oil + Water Engine.
On Jul 4, 1:16*pm, AnnSnow wrote:
I winterized the boat early last fall, removed both screws that goes behind the manifold, the two screws on each side on the block and the inlet and outlet hoses(learned that with a marine mechanic). Have been doing this for the last 4 years, no problem and this last winter was mild down here in OK. Yesterday, first time I take the boat to the lake and after a few hours in the lake, getting ready to load the boat back home I noticed the engine beeping and almost cutting off on idle. *Opened the engine compartment and noticed oil and water mixed (milky combination) flowing out of the top of the carburator area. Talking about a shocking experience here!!! Pulled the dipstick and the mix of oil and water is all the way to the top. I am praying for a blown gasket, but all the posts I ready point to a crack on the engine. Also I had to get something on the engine area a few minutes before riding back to the dock and did not see any problems or oi +water overflowing. So it seems like it happened on the way back to the dock. But it could be running like that since we got to the lake. I am not a mechanic, but I would think if I got the water out of the block, manifolds and pump hoses, at least if it is a cracked engine, it should not be in the block. What do you think. I saw a lot of water come out of that engine. Where else would water be hidding enough to crack the engine ? Or could it be something else ? *I would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks in advance. 3.0's are easy to winterize, there's not much to it. But still. I'm wondeing in the engine has an internal crack in a cylinder wall. You're is probably a raw water cooling system so no exhaust gas to build in the heat exchange, so I'm thinking that some where there is either a crak in the block or the head. I believe I'd take the head to a quality machine shop and have it magnifluxed to see if there is any internal damage, and if so, see if it can be re welded. Also you should be able to tell in the gasket gave out as well. while you have the head off, you'll be able to tell if there has been water damage to a cylinder. But it sounds to me that you've got something really major going down on you. Can you think of the engine over heating at one point? And if it has. it's possible that the main water pump is defective thus over heating the engine regardless if the lower end impeller is working or not. also, I've seen people run the alternator belt too loose causeing the water punp to slip and not provide sufficient cooling. alot of problems to look for. good luck. |
Volvo Penta 4.3L 1999 120 HP. Mixed Oil + Water Engine.
On Jul 4, 5:31*pm, Tim wrote:
On Jul 4, 1:16*pm, AnnSnow wrote: I winterized the boat early last fall, removed both screws that goes behind the manifold, the two screws on each side on the block and the inlet and outlet hoses(learned that with a marine mechanic). Have been doing this for the last 4 years, no problem and this last winter was mild down here in OK. Yesterday, first time I take the boat to the lake and after a few hours in the lake, getting ready to load the boat back home I noticed the engine beeping and almost cutting off on idle. *Opened the engine compartment and noticed oil and water mixed (milky combination) flowing out of the top of the carburator area. Talking about a shocking experience here!!! Pulled the dipstick and the mix of oil and water is all the way to the top. I am praying for a blown gasket, but all the posts I ready point to a crack on the engine. Also I had to get something on the engine area a few minutes before riding back to the dock and did not see any problems or oi +water overflowing. So it seems like it happened on the way back to the dock. But it could be running like that since we got to the lake. I am not a mechanic, but I would think if I got the water out of the block, manifolds and pump hoses, at least if it is a cracked engine, it should not be in the block. What do you think. I saw a lot of water come out of that engine. Where else would water be hidding enough to crack the engine ? Or could it be something else ? *I would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks in advance. 3.0's are easy to winterize, there's not much to it. But still. I'm wondeing in the engine has an internal crack in a cylinder wall. You're is probably a raw water cooling system so no exhaust gas to build in the heat exchange, so I'm thinking that some where there is either a crak in the block or the head. I believe I'd take the head to a quality machine shop and have it magnifluxed to see if there is any internal damage, and if so, see if it can be re welded. Also you should be able to tell in the gasket gave out as well. *while you have the head off, you'll be able to tell if there has been water damage to a cylinder. But it sounds to me that you've got something really major going down on you. Can you think of the engine over heating at one point? And if it has. it's possible that the main water pump is defective thus over heating the engine regardless if the lower end impeller is working or not. also, I've seen people run the alternator belt too loose causeing the water punp to slip and not provide sufficient cooling. *alot of problems to look for. good luck. OOPS! I'm sorry, but you mentioned 4.3 instead of 3.0. Now I am thinking that you may have an internal crack in the block. |
Volvo Penta 4.3L 1999 120 HP. Mixed Oil + Water Engine.
On Jul 4, 5:32*pm, Tim wrote:
On Jul 4, 5:31*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 1:16*pm, AnnSnow wrote: I winterized the boat early last fall, removed both screws that goes behind the manifold, the two screws on each side on the block and the inlet and outlet hoses(learned that with a marine mechanic). Have been doing this for the last 4 years, no problem and this last winter was mild down here in OK. Yesterday, first time I take the boat to the lake and after a few hours in the lake, getting ready to load the boat back home I noticed the engine beeping and almost cutting off on idle. *Opened the engine compartment and noticed oil and water mixed (milky combination) flowing out of the top of the carburator area. Talking about a shocking experience here!!! Pulled the dipstick and the mix of oil and water is all the way to the top. I am praying for a blown gasket, but all the posts I ready point to a crack on the engine. Also I had to get something on the engine area a few minutes before riding back to the dock and did not see any problems or oi +water overflowing. So it seems like it happened on the way back to the dock. But it could be running like that since we got to the lake. I am not a mechanic, but I would think if I got the water out of the block, manifolds and pump hoses, at least if it is a cracked engine, it should not be in the block. What do you think. I saw a lot of water come out of that engine. Where else would water be hidding enough to crack the engine ? Or could it be something else ? *I would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks in advance. 3.0's are easy to winterize, there's not much to it. But still. I'm wondeing in the engine has an internal crack in a cylinder wall. You're is probably a raw water cooling system so no exhaust gas to build in the heat exchange, so I'm thinking that some where there is either a crak in the block or the head. I believe I'd take the head to a quality machine shop and have it magnifluxed to see if there is any internal damage, and if so, see if it can be re welded. Also you should be able to tell in the gasket gave out as well. *while you have the head off, you'll be able to tell if there has been water damage to a cylinder. But it sounds to me that you've got something really major going down on you. Can you think of the engine over heating at one point? And if it has. it's possible that the main water pump is defective thus over heating the engine regardless if the lower end impeller is working or not. also, I've seen people run the alternator belt too loose causeing the water punp to slip and not provide sufficient cooling. *alot of problems to look for. good luck. OOPS! I'm sorry, but you mentioned 4.3 instead of 3.0. Now I am thinking that you may have an internal crack in the block.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - That sucks!!! But I did remove all the darn plugs and water pump hoses, including the two ones in the block, saw the water run out on both sides. Anyway, instead of speculating, I will ask what would be the next steps to find out where the problem might be. Remove the manifolds first to check them out ? Could the problem be there ? Any idea of the cost of rebuilding this engine in a marine shop? I could probably try to do it myself, but don't have the time. |
Volvo Penta 4.3L 1999 120 HP. Mixed Oil + Water Engine.
On Jul 4, 5:32*pm, Tim wrote:
On Jul 4, 5:31*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 1:16*pm, AnnSnow wrote: I winterized the boat early last fall, removed both screws that goes behind the manifold, the two screws on each side on the block and the inlet and outlet hoses(learned that with a marine mechanic). Have been doing this for the last 4 years, no problem and this last winter was mild down here in OK. Yesterday, first time I take the boat to the lake and after a few hours in the lake, getting ready to load the boat back home I noticed the engine beeping and almost cutting off on idle. *Opened the engine compartment and noticed oil and water mixed (milky combination) flowing out of the top of the carburator area. Talking about a shocking experience here!!! Pulled the dipstick and the mix of oil and water is all the way to the top. I am praying for a blown gasket, but all the posts I ready point to a crack on the engine. Also I had to get something on the engine area a few minutes before riding back to the dock and did not see any problems or oi +water overflowing. So it seems like it happened on the way back to the dock. But it could be running like that since we got to the lake. I am not a mechanic, but I would think if I got the water out of the block, manifolds and pump hoses, at least if it is a cracked engine, it should not be in the block. What do you think. I saw a lot of water come out of that engine. Where else would water be hidding enough to crack the engine ? Or could it be something else ? *I would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks in advance. 3.0's are easy to winterize, there's not much to it. But still. I'm wondeing in the engine has an internal crack in a cylinder wall. You're is probably a raw water cooling system so no exhaust gas to build in the heat exchange, so I'm thinking that some where there is either a crak in the block or the head. I believe I'd take the head to a quality machine shop and have it magnifluxed to see if there is any internal damage, and if so, see if it can be re welded. Also you should be able to tell in the gasket gave out as well. *while you have the head off, you'll be able to tell if there has been water damage to a cylinder. But it sounds to me that you've got something really major going down on you. Can you think of the engine over heating at one point? And if it has. it's possible that the main water pump is defective thus over heating the engine regardless if the lower end impeller is working or not. also, I've seen people run the alternator belt too loose causeing the water punp to slip and not provide sufficient cooling. *alot of problems to look for. good luck. OOPS! I'm sorry, but you mentioned 4.3 instead of 3.0. Now I am thinking that you may have an internal crack in the block.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Here is what I found out today. I noticed the alternator belt is so loose that I can turn the alternator with my fingers. I overlooked when starting it in the lake. Would this make more sense to cause the engine to overheat since it appears that the water pump would not pump any water into the engine ? I wonder if it cooked the head or if a blown gasket would cause the mix. The boat was kept in an insulated barn, all winter with cover on top and closed engine compartment. Water was drained out of the block, manifolds and pump just by pulling the plugs. |
Volvo Penta 4.3L 1999 120 HP. Mixed Oil + Water Engine.
On Jul 5, 12:00*pm, AnnSnow wrote:
On Jul 4, 5:32*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 5:31*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 1:16*pm, AnnSnow wrote: I winterized the boat early last fall, removed both screws that goes behind the manifold, the two screws on each side on the block and the inlet and outlet hoses(learned that with a marine mechanic). Have been doing this for the last 4 years, no problem and this last winter was mild down here in OK. Yesterday, first time I take the boat to the lake and after a few hours in the lake, getting ready to load the boat back home I noticed the engine beeping and almost cutting off on idle. *Opened the engine compartment and noticed oil and water mixed (milky combination) flowing out of the top of the carburator area. Talking about a shocking experience here!!! Pulled the dipstick and the mix of oil and water is all the way to the top. I am praying for a blown gasket, but all the posts I ready point to a crack on the engine. Also I had to get something on the engine area a few minutes before riding back to the dock and did not see any problems or oi +water overflowing. So it seems like it happened on the way back to the dock. But it could be running like that since we got to the lake. I am not a mechanic, but I would think if I got the water out of the block, manifolds and pump hoses, at least if it is a cracked engine, it should not be in the block. What do you think. I saw a lot of water come out of that engine. Where else would water be hidding enough to crack the engine ? Or could it be something else ? *I would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks in advance. 3.0's are easy to winterize, there's not much to it. But still. I'm wondeing in the engine has an internal crack in a cylinder wall. You're is probably a raw water cooling system so no exhaust gas to build in the heat exchange, so I'm thinking that some where there is either a crak in the block or the head. I believe I'd take the head to a quality machine shop and have it magnifluxed to see if there is any internal damage, and if so, see if it can be re welded. Also you should be able to tell in the gasket gave out as well. *while you have the head off, you'll be able to tell if there has been water damage to a cylinder. But it sounds to me that you've got something really major going down on you. Can you think of the engine over heating at one point? And if it has. it's possible that the main water pump is defective thus over heating the engine regardless if the lower end impeller is working or not. also, I've seen people run the alternator belt too loose causeing the water punp to slip and not provide sufficient cooling. *alot of problems to look for. good luck. OOPS! I'm sorry, but you mentioned 4.3 instead of 3.0. Now I am thinking that you may have an internal crack in the block.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Here is what I found out today. I noticed the alternator belt is so loose that I can turn the alternator with my fingers. I overlooked when starting it in the lake. Would this make more sense to cause the engine to overheat since it appears that the water pump would not pump any water into the engine ? I wonder if it cooked the head or *if a blown gasket would cause the mix. The boat was kept in an insulated barn, all winter with cover on top and closed engine compartment. Water was drained out of the block, manifolds and pump just by pulling the plugs. I'd say your winterization was done right and I would say that is the main culprit. over heated engine due to a non functioning water pump. I would say that the block is fine, but there are blown head gaskets and possibly a cracked head. I dont' know what the marinas charge to work on this stuff, but it is basically an automotive engine. So you might talk to a local mechanic or garage that you would trust and see if they could make the repairs. cost varies from shop to shop. concerning water in the oil. Yes, and bad head gasket and/or cracked head can do that. because the coolant channels in the head are compromised where they now leak water into the oil chambers. But I'd say that the heads need to go to a machine shop for resurfacing and inspection. But with what you've said, I'm ruling out a damaged block . |
Volvo Penta 4.3L 1999 120 HP. Mixed Oil + Water Engine.
On Jul 5, 12:00*pm, AnnSnow wrote:
On Jul 4, 5:32*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 5:31*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 1:16*pm, AnnSnow wrote: I winterized the boat early last fall, removed both screws that goes behind the manifold, the two screws on each side on the block and the inlet and outlet hoses(learned that with a marine mechanic). Have been doing this for the last 4 years, no problem and this last winter was mild down here in OK. Yesterday, first time I take the boat to the lake and after a few hours in the lake, getting ready to load the boat back home I noticed the engine beeping and almost cutting off on idle. *Opened the engine compartment and noticed oil and water mixed (milky combination) flowing out of the top of the carburator area. Talking about a shocking experience here!!! Pulled the dipstick and the mix of oil and water is all the way to the top. I am praying for a blown gasket, but all the posts I ready point to a crack on the engine. Also I had to get something on the engine area a few minutes before riding back to the dock and did not see any problems or oi +water overflowing. So it seems like it happened on the way back to the dock. But it could be running like that since we got to the lake. I am not a mechanic, but I would think if I got the water out of the block, manifolds and pump hoses, at least if it is a cracked engine, it should not be in the block. What do you think. I saw a lot of water come out of that engine. Where else would water be hidding enough to crack the engine ? Or could it be something else ? *I would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks in advance. 3.0's are easy to winterize, there's not much to it. But still. I'm wondeing in the engine has an internal crack in a cylinder wall. You're is probably a raw water cooling system so no exhaust gas to build in the heat exchange, so I'm thinking that some where there is either a crak in the block or the head. I believe I'd take the head to a quality machine shop and have it magnifluxed to see if there is any internal damage, and if so, see if it can be re welded. Also you should be able to tell in the gasket gave out as well. *while you have the head off, you'll be able to tell if there has been water damage to a cylinder. But it sounds to me that you've got something really major going down on you. Can you think of the engine over heating at one point? And if it has. it's possible that the main water pump is defective thus over heating the engine regardless if the lower end impeller is working or not. also, I've seen people run the alternator belt too loose causeing the water punp to slip and not provide sufficient cooling. *alot of problems to look for. good luck. OOPS! I'm sorry, but you mentioned 4.3 instead of 3.0. Now I am thinking that you may have an internal crack in the block.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Here is what I found out today. I noticed the alternator belt is so loose that I can turn the alternator with my fingers. I overlooked when starting it in the lake. Would this make more sense to cause the engine to overheat since it appears that the water pump would not pump any water into the engine ? I wonder if it cooked the head or *if a blown gasket would cause the mix. The boat was kept in an insulated barn, all winter with cover on top and closed engine compartment. Water was drained out of the block, manifolds and pump just by pulling the plugs. BTW,I'd say that marine shops (over automotive) are probably used to this because it's actually not uncommon. and then when thinking about it, dealing with the manifolds etc. a marine shop would probably know where to go with it, what to do to it and how to do it, due to experience. |
Volvo Penta 4.3L 1999 120 HP. Mixed Oil + Water Engine.
On Jul 5, 1:33*pm, Tim wrote:
On Jul 5, 12:00*pm, AnnSnow wrote: On Jul 4, 5:32*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 5:31*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 1:16*pm, AnnSnow wrote: I winterized the boat early last fall, removed both screws that goes behind the manifold, the two screws on each side on the block and the inlet and outlet hoses(learned that with a marine mechanic). Have been doing this for the last 4 years, no problem and this last winter was mild down here in OK. Yesterday, first time I take the boat to the lake and after a few hours in the lake, getting ready to load the boat back home I noticed the engine beeping and almost cutting off on idle. *Opened the engine compartment and noticed oil and water mixed (milky combination) flowing out of the top of the carburator area.. Talking about a shocking experience here!!! Pulled the dipstick and the mix of oil and water is all the way to the top. I am praying for a blown gasket, but all the posts I ready point to a crack on the engine. Also I had to get something on the engine area a few minutes before riding back to the dock and did not see any problems or oi +water overflowing. So it seems like it happened on the way back to the dock. But it could be running like that since we got to the lake. I am not a mechanic, but I would think if I got the water out of the block, manifolds and pump hoses, at least if it is a cracked engine, it should not be in the block. What do you think. I saw a lot of water come out of that engine. Where else would water be hidding enough to crack the engine ? Or could it be something else ? *I would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks in advance. 3.0's are easy to winterize, there's not much to it. But still. I'm wondeing in the engine has an internal crack in a cylinder wall. You're is probably a raw water cooling system so no exhaust gas to build in the heat exchange, so I'm thinking that some where there is either a crak in the block or the head. I believe I'd take the head to a quality machine shop and have it magnifluxed to see if there is any internal damage, and if so, see if it can be re welded. Also you should be able to tell in the gasket gave out as well. *while you have the head off, you'll be able to tell if there has been water damage to a cylinder. But it sounds to me that you've got something really major going down on you. Can you think of the engine over heating at one point? And if it has. it's possible that the main water pump is defective thus over heating the engine regardless if the lower end impeller is working or not. also, I've seen people run the alternator belt too loose causeing the water punp to slip and not provide sufficient cooling. *alot of problems to look for. good luck. OOPS! I'm sorry, but you mentioned 4.3 instead of 3.0. Now I am thinking that you may have an internal crack in the block.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Here is what I found out today. I noticed the alternator belt is so loose that I can turn the alternator with my fingers. I overlooked when starting it in the lake. Would this make more sense to cause the engine to overheat since it appears that the water pump would not pump any water into the engine ? I wonder if it cooked the head or *if a blown gasket would cause the mix. The boat was kept in an insulated barn, all winter with cover on top and closed engine compartment. Water was drained out of the block, manifolds and pump just by pulling the plugs. BTW,I'd say that marine shops *(over automotive) are probably used to this because it's actually not uncommon. and then when thinking about it, dealing with the manifolds etc. a marine shop would probably know where to go with it, what to do to it and how to do it, due to experience.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks, Yep, I just drained the oil+water mix, added new oil to avoid rust. Tried to start the darn engine for a few seconds to remix with new oil before redraining. Now I hear something new when starting the ignition, a loud grinding noise on the back on the engine. I can't get it to start. Decided not to force it. It rained here last night and the water rose to the level of the starter since the oil mix clogged up the drain plug, wonder if this is a new problem or if related to the same issue. I will take it to a mechanic frind of mine and see if he can pull the head out... |
Volvo Penta 4.3L 1999 120 HP. Mixed Oil + Water Engine.
On Jul 5, 2:05*pm, AnnSnow wrote:
On Jul 5, 1:33*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 5, 12:00*pm, AnnSnow wrote: On Jul 4, 5:32*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 5:31*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 1:16*pm, AnnSnow wrote: I winterized the boat early last fall, removed both screws that goes behind the manifold, the two screws on each side on the block and the inlet and outlet hoses(learned that with a marine mechanic). Have been doing this for the last 4 years, no problem and this last winter was mild down here in OK. Yesterday, first time I take the boat to the lake and after a few hours in the lake, getting ready to load the boat back home I noticed the engine beeping and almost cutting off on idle. *Opened the engine compartment and noticed oil and water mixed (milky combination) flowing out of the top of the carburator area. Talking about a shocking experience here!!! Pulled the dipstick and the mix of oil and water is all the way to the top. I am praying for a blown gasket, but all the posts I ready point to a crack on the engine. Also I had to get something on the engine area a few minutes before riding back to the dock and did not see any problems or oi +water overflowing. So it seems like it happened on the way back to the dock. But it could be running like that since we got to the lake. I am not a mechanic, but I would think if I got the water out of the block, manifolds and pump hoses, at least if it is a cracked engine, it should not be in the block. What do you think. I saw a lot of water come out of that engine. Where else would water be hidding enough to crack the engine ? Or could it be something else ? *I would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks in advance. 3.0's are easy to winterize, there's not much to it. But still. I'm wondeing in the engine has an internal crack in a cylinder wall. You're is probably a raw water cooling system so no exhaust gas to build in the heat exchange, so I'm thinking that some where there is either a crak in the block or the head. I believe I'd take the head to a quality machine shop and have it magnifluxed to see if there is any internal damage, and if so, see if it can be re welded. Also you should be able to tell in the gasket gave out as well. *while you have the head off, you'll be able to tell if there has been water damage to a cylinder. But it sounds to me that you've got something really major going down on you. Can you think of the engine over heating at one point? And if it has. it's possible that the main water pump is defective thus over heating the engine regardless if the lower end impeller is working or not.. also, I've seen people run the alternator belt too loose causeing the water punp to slip and not provide sufficient cooling. *alot of problems to look for. good luck. OOPS! I'm sorry, but you mentioned 4.3 instead of 3.0. Now I am thinking that you may have an internal crack in the block.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Here is what I found out today. I noticed the alternator belt is so loose that I can turn the alternator with my fingers. I overlooked when starting it in the lake. Would this make more sense to cause the engine to overheat since it appears that the water pump would not pump any water into the engine ? I wonder if it cooked the head or *if a blown gasket would cause the mix. The boat was kept in an insulated barn, all winter with cover on top and closed engine compartment. Water was drained out of the block, manifolds and pump just by pulling the plugs. BTW,I'd say that marine shops *(over automotive) are probably used to this because it's actually not uncommon. and then when thinking about it, dealing with the manifolds etc. a marine shop would probably know where to go with it, what to do to it and how to do it, due to experience.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks, Yep, I just drained the oil+water mix, added new oil to avoid rust. Tried to start the darn engine for a few seconds to remix with new oil before redraining. Now I hear something new when starting the ignition, a loud grinding noise on the back on the engine. I can't get it to start. Decided not to force it. It rained here last night and the water rose to the level of the starter since the oil mix clogged up the drain plug, wonder if this is a new problem or if related to the same issue. I will take it to a mechanic *frind of mine and see if he can pull the head out...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Oh my goodness. The EXACT thing happened to my 4.3L 1997 (in a Regal 2100LSR) when I checked it out on the lake on July 2 (after having just pulled it out of storage). Since the winterizing was done by the guy who stored the boat, he is "checking the problem." I am wondering if he actually got all of the water out in the winterizing (we live in Montana). PLEASE, when you identify the problem, please report back, or send me an email at . Thanks. |
Volvo Penta 4.3L 1999 120 HP. Mixed Oil + Water Engine.
On Sun, 5 Jul 2009 11:33:47 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote: On Jul 5, 12:00*pm, AnnSnow wrote: On Jul 4, 5:32*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 5:31*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 1:16*pm, AnnSnow wrote: I winterized the boat early last fall, removed both screws that goes behind the manifold, the two screws on each side on the block and the inlet and outlet hoses(learned that with a marine mechanic). Have been doing this for the last 4 years, no problem and this last winter was mild down here in OK. Yesterday, first time I take the boat to the lake and after a few hours in the lake, getting ready to load the boat back home I noticed the engine beeping and almost cutting off on idle. *Opened the engine compartment and noticed oil and water mixed (milky combination) flowing out of the top of the carburator area. Talking about a shocking experience here!!! Pulled the dipstick and the mix of oil and water is all the way to the top. I am praying for a blown gasket, but all the posts I ready point to a crack on the engine. Also I had to get something on the engine area a few minutes before riding back to the dock and did not see any problems or oi +water overflowing. So it seems like it happened on the way back to the dock. But it could be running like that since we got to the lake. I am not a mechanic, but I would think if I got the water out of the block, manifolds and pump hoses, at least if it is a cracked engine, it should not be in the block. What do you think. I saw a lot of water come out of that engine. Where else would water be hidding enough to crack the engine ? Or could it be something else ? *I would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks in advance. 3.0's are easy to winterize, there's not much to it. But still. I'm wondeing in the engine has an internal crack in a cylinder wall. You're is probably a raw water cooling system so no exhaust gas to build in the heat exchange, so I'm thinking that some where there is either a crak in the block or the head. I believe I'd take the head to a quality machine shop and have it magnifluxed to see if there is any internal damage, and if so, see if it can be re welded. Also you should be able to tell in the gasket gave out as well. *while you have the head off, you'll be able to tell if there has been water damage to a cylinder. But it sounds to me that you've got something really major going down on you. Can you think of the engine over heating at one point? And if it has. it's possible that the main water pump is defective thus over heating the engine regardless if the lower end impeller is working or not. also, I've seen people run the alternator belt too loose causeing the water punp to slip and not provide sufficient cooling. *alot of problems to look for. good luck. OOPS! I'm sorry, but you mentioned 4.3 instead of 3.0. Now I am thinking that you may have an internal crack in the block.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Here is what I found out today. I noticed the alternator belt is so loose that I can turn the alternator with my fingers. I overlooked when starting it in the lake. Would this make more sense to cause the engine to overheat since it appears that the water pump would not pump any water into the engine ? I wonder if it cooked the head or *if a blown gasket would cause the mix. The boat was kept in an insulated barn, all winter with cover on top and closed engine compartment. Water was drained out of the block, manifolds and pump just by pulling the plugs. BTW,I'd say that marine shops (over automotive) are probably used to this because it's actually not uncommon. and then when thinking about it, dealing with the manifolds etc. a marine shop would probably know where to go with it, what to do to it and how to do it, due to experience. Good job, Tim. -- John H "If you think healthcare is expensive now, wait until it's free!" --Anonymous |
Volvo Penta 4.3L 1999 120 HP. Mixed Oil + Water Engine.
Little John wrote:
On Sun, 5 Jul 2009 11:33:47 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: On Jul 5, 12:00 pm, AnnSnow wrote: On Jul 4, 5:32 pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 5:31 pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 1:16 pm, AnnSnow wrote: I winterized the boat early last fall, removed both screws that goes behind the manifold, the two screws on each side on the block and the inlet and outlet hoses(learned that with a marine mechanic). Have been doing this for the last 4 years, no problem and this last winter was mild down here in OK. Yesterday, first time I take the boat to the lake and after a few hours in the lake, getting ready to load the boat back home I noticed the engine beeping and almost cutting off on idle. Opened the engine compartment and noticed oil and water mixed (milky combination) flowing out of the top of the carburator area. Talking about a shocking experience here!!! Pulled the dipstick and the mix of oil and water is all the way to the top. I am praying for a blown gasket, but all the posts I ready point to a crack on the engine. Also I had to get something on the engine area a few minutes before riding back to the dock and did not see any problems or oi +water overflowing. So it seems like it happened on the way back to the dock. But it could be running like that since we got to the lake. I am not a mechanic, but I would think if I got the water out of the block, manifolds and pump hoses, at least if it is a cracked engine, it should not be in the block. What do you think. I saw a lot of water come out of that engine. Where else would water be hidding enough to crack the engine ? Or could it be something else ? I would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks in advance. 3.0's are easy to winterize, there's not much to it. But still. I'm wondeing in the engine has an internal crack in a cylinder wall. You're is probably a raw water cooling system so no exhaust gas to build in the heat exchange, so I'm thinking that some where there is either a crak in the block or the head. I believe I'd take the head to a quality machine shop and have it magnifluxed to see if there is any internal damage, and if so, see if it can be re welded. Also you should be able to tell in the gasket gave out as well. while you have the head off, you'll be able to tell if there has been water damage to a cylinder. But it sounds to me that you've got something really major going down on you. Can you think of the engine over heating at one point? And if it has. it's possible that the main water pump is defective thus over heating the engine regardless if the lower end impeller is working or not. also, I've seen people run the alternator belt too loose causeing the water punp to slip and not provide sufficient cooling. alot of problems to look for. good luck. OOPS! I'm sorry, but you mentioned 4.3 instead of 3.0. Now I am thinking that you may have an internal crack in the block.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Here is what I found out today. I noticed the alternator belt is so loose that I can turn the alternator with my fingers. I overlooked when starting it in the lake. Would this make more sense to cause the engine to overheat since it appears that the water pump would not pump any water into the engine ? I wonder if it cooked the head or if a blown gasket would cause the mix. The boat was kept in an insulated barn, all winter with cover on top and closed engine compartment. Water was drained out of the block, manifolds and pump just by pulling the plugs. BTW,I'd say that marine shops (over automotive) are probably used to this because it's actually not uncommon. and then when thinking about it, dealing with the manifolds etc. a marine shop would probably know where to go with it, what to do to it and how to do it, due to experience. Good job, Tim. -- John H "If you think healthcare is expensive now, wait until it's free!" --Anonymous The engine,manifolds and risers sometimes get rust buildup inside the drain hole and then you need to poke at it to get water to drain. There might be an internal crack in one in those componants. I would expect the engine to lock up from water in the cylinders if you had an exhaust problem. The more plausible scenario would be either an engine block crack or blown head gasket. A compression test might show a head gasket problem. Sometimes rapid decelleration will cause water to back up through the exhaust into the engine but this would also lock up the engine. The best thing for you to do is change the oil and get the engine started right away. There is no time to lose if you want to save the engine. The oil will still be milky until after you change the oil about 3 times. Next pull the spark plugs and spin the engine over. If water doesn't come out the plug holes you can eliminate an exhaust problem and go right to the compression test. If that doesn't show a problem in one or more cylinders then you probably have a cracked block. |
Volvo Penta 4.3L 1999 120 HP. Mixed Oil + Water Engine.
On Jul 5, 4:05*pm, AnnSnow wrote:
On Jul 5, 1:33*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 5, 12:00*pm, AnnSnow wrote: On Jul 4, 5:32*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 5:31*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 4, 1:16*pm, AnnSnow wrote: I winterized the boat early last fall, removed both screws that goes behind the manifold, the two screws on each side on the block and the inlet and outlet hoses(learned that with a marine mechanic). Have been doing this for the last 4 years, no problem and this last winter was mild down here in OK. Yesterday, first time I take the boat to the lake and after a few hours in the lake, getting ready to load the boat back home I noticed the engine beeping and almost cutting off on idle. *Opened the engine compartment and noticed oil and water mixed (milky combination) flowing out of the top of the carburator area. Talking about a shocking experience here!!! Pulled the dipstick and the mix of oil and water is all the way to the top. I am praying for a blown gasket, but all the posts I ready point to a crack on the engine. Also I had to get something on the engine area a few minutes before riding back to the dock and did not see any problems or oi +water overflowing. So it seems like it happened on the way back to the dock. But it could be running like that since we got to the lake. I am not a mechanic, but I would think if I got the water out of the block, manifolds and pump hoses, at least if it is a cracked engine, it should not be in the block. What do you think. I saw a lot of water come out of that engine. Where else would water be hidding enough to crack the engine ? Or could it be something else ? *I would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks in advance. 3.0's are easy to winterize, there's not much to it. But still. I'm wondeing in the engine has an internal crack in a cylinder wall. You're is probably a raw water cooling system so no exhaust gas to build in the heat exchange, so I'm thinking that some where there is either a crak in the block or the head. I believe I'd take the head to a quality machine shop and have it magnifluxed to see if there is any internal damage, and if so, see if it can be re welded. Also you should be able to tell in the gasket gave out as well. *while you have the head off, you'll be able to tell if there has been water damage to a cylinder. But it sounds to me that you've got something really major going down on you. Can you think of the engine over heating at one point? And if it has. it's possible that the main water pump is defective thus over heating the engine regardless if the lower end impeller is working or not.. also, I've seen people run the alternator belt too loose causeing the water punp to slip and not provide sufficient cooling. *alot of problems to look for. good luck. OOPS! I'm sorry, but you mentioned 4.3 instead of 3.0. Now I am thinking that you may have an internal crack in the block.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Here is what I found out today. I noticed the alternator belt is so loose that I can turn the alternator with my fingers. I overlooked when starting it in the lake. Would this make more sense to cause the engine to overheat since it appears that the water pump would not pump any water into the engine ? I wonder if it cooked the head or *if a blown gasket would cause the mix. The boat was kept in an insulated barn, all winter with cover on top and closed engine compartment. Water was drained out of the block, manifolds and pump just by pulling the plugs. BTW,I'd say that marine shops *(over automotive) are probably used to this because it's actually not uncommon. and then when thinking about it, dealing with the manifolds etc. a marine shop would probably know where to go with it, what to do to it and how to do it, due to experience.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks, Yep, I just drained the oil+water mix, added new oil to avoid rust. Tried to start the darn engine for a few seconds to remix with new oil before redraining. Now I hear something new when starting the ignition, a loud grinding noise on the back on the engine. I can't get it to start. Decided not to force it. It rained here last night and the water rose to the level of the starter since the oil mix clogged up the drain plug, wonder if this is a new problem or if related to the same issue. I will take it to a mechanic *frind of mine and see if he can pull the head out...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I would be concerned about the engine condition because it sounds like it ran for a while with a lot of water in the oil system. The main and rod bearings don't really tolerate much of that. They are under considerable load even at idle and rely on a regular supply of oil to prevent a metal on metal condition. That you saw oil/water comming out of the top of the engine means it had completely filled the block and was coming out the vent hoses on top of the valve covers. Those route into the spark arrester on top of the carb. Oil/water could not come out the carb throat on a running engine. It would be unlikely that a blown head gasket would cause that much water in the oil. Water is at a low pressure in a boat engine. And head gaskets tend to blow out at the cylinder resulting in combustion products ending up in the oil or water. The most common place these blocks (and the v8s) crack from freezing is inside the cylinder walls right above the lifters. You have to remove the intake to see this. The heads seldom crack because there is almost never much water that high up if any attempt to drain it has been made. But they can crack as well. All freezing cracks I have seen have been readily visible on close inspection. The area is usually bulged out around the crack. When draining the block you should get a solid stream of water out of each side of the block at the drain holes. It is not uncommon for crud or sand to clog these. The starter problem could be because the starter was submerged in oil/ water. I would disassmble, clean, and reassemble. |
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