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Sorry, boating question
On Thu, 23 Apr 2009 21:08:20 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote: What's a good type of rope for 100' of fresh water anchor line, 15# anchor? Steve Half inch three strand nylon. One outfit has anchor rodes in at least six colors, several lengths, several sizes. One size smaller should be strong enough, but harder on the hands. Buy one with the eyesplice and thimble included. Don't forget to buy a shackle. Casady |
Sorry, boating question
Richard Casady wrote:
On Thu, 23 Apr 2009 21:08:20 -0600, "SteveB" wrote: What's a good type of rope for 100' of fresh water anchor line, 15# anchor? Steve Half inch three strand nylon. One outfit has anchor rodes in at least six colors, several lengths, several sizes. One size smaller should be strong enough, but harder on the hands. Buy one with the eyesplice and thimble included. Don't forget to buy a shackle. Casady Half inch anchor line? For what size boat and what sort of waters? 3/8" might be more appropriate. |
Sorry, boating question
Sorry I didn't put in all the info. This is a 2 square mile lake, deepest
part, 190 feet, but most of it 100' or less, and that's where the fish hang out. I have a 10# anchor that came with the boat, and it is of the smooth braided line, but is in two segments that total about 50' total. The bottom is mostly sandy or muddy, and not a lot of areas where there are rocks to catch on. Kind of like the braided, as it is easy on the hands. Manila or sisal would be harder on the hands, and actually 1/2' sounds good, although it is far stronger than needed. Just wanted comments and input as per longevity, cost, rate of wear, those things. Boat is 16' Aluminum Lund. No current. No wind. (If if's windy, I don't go, or go home.) Steve |
Sorry, boating question
On Fri, 24 Apr 2009 06:58:05 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote: Half inch three strand nylon. Overkill for all normal conditions. I anchored a 34 ft, 10,000 pound boat for many years using half inch nylon. 3/8ths is more than enough. |
Sorry, boating question
"Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Fri, 24 Apr 2009 06:58:05 -0500, Richard Casady wrote: Half inch three strand nylon. Overkill for all normal conditions. I anchored a 34 ft, 10,000 pound boat for many years using half inch nylon. 3/8ths is more than enough. Now that I went to the garage and looked at a hank of 3/8" rope, I agree. Looks like 3/8" nylon it is. Steve |
Sorry, boating question
"SteveB" wrote in message ... "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Fri, 24 Apr 2009 06:58:05 -0500, Richard Casady wrote: Half inch three strand nylon. Overkill for all normal conditions. I anchored a 34 ft, 10,000 pound boat for many years using half inch nylon. 3/8ths is more than enough. Now that I went to the garage and looked at a hank of 3/8" rope, I agree. Looks like 3/8" nylon it is. Steve 1/4" will work. Your hands will hate you for it. |
Sorry, boating question
On Fri, 24 Apr 2009 23:14:04 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote: On Fri, 24 Apr 2009 06:58:05 -0500, Richard Casady wrote: Half inch three strand nylon. Overkill for all normal conditions. I anchored a 34 ft, 10,000 pound boat for many years using half inch nylon. 3/8ths is more than enough. I noted that smaller would do, but recommended 1/2 for the sake of the hands. If you go with the skinnier stuff, it would stretch more, an advantage, and you can always use heavy gloves to protect the hands. Three strand is cheaper, and stretches more. Casady |
Sorry, boating question
"SteveB" wrote in message ... Sorry I didn't put in all the info. This is a 2 square mile lake, deepest part, 190 feet, but most of it 100' or less, and that's where the fish hang out. I have a 10# anchor that came with the boat, and it is of the smooth braided line, but is in two segments that total about 50' total. The bottom is mostly sandy or muddy, and not a lot of areas where there are rocks to catch on. Kind of like the braided, as it is easy on the hands. Manila or sisal would be harder on the hands, and actually 1/2' sounds good, although it is far stronger than needed. Just wanted comments and input as per longevity, cost, rate of wear, those things. Boat is 16' Aluminum Lund. No current. No wind. (If if's windy, I don't go, or go home.) Steve Steve, If theres no wind or current and you just want to maintain position over a favorite spot, how about just using a weight? You wouldn't need a lot of line for scope and I'd think a 25 lb hunk of lead would work. For anchoring in rocks a welded rebar grapple works good. When, not if it gets caught, you can pull it out because the rebar will bend out. After you retrieve, you bend it back into shape. |
Sorry, boating question
"mmc" wrote in message g.com... "SteveB" wrote in message ... Sorry I didn't put in all the info. This is a 2 square mile lake, deepest part, 190 feet, but most of it 100' or less, and that's where the fish hang out. I have a 10# anchor that came with the boat, and it is of the smooth braided line, but is in two segments that total about 50' total. The bottom is mostly sandy or muddy, and not a lot of areas where there are rocks to catch on. Kind of like the braided, as it is easy on the hands. Manila or sisal would be harder on the hands, and actually 1/2' sounds good, although it is far stronger than needed. Just wanted comments and input as per longevity, cost, rate of wear, those things. Boat is 16' Aluminum Lund. No current. No wind. (If if's windy, I don't go, or go home.) Steve Steve, If theres no wind or current and you just want to maintain position over a favorite spot, how about just using a weight? You wouldn't need a lot of line for scope and I'd think a 25 lb hunk of lead would work. For anchoring in rocks a welded rebar grapple works good. When, not if it gets caught, you can pull it out because the rebar will bend out. After you retrieve, you bend it back into shape. Lets see.......... I'm a welder, and I have all sorts of junk and rebar laying around. I wonder who I could get to make me one of those. Thanks for the great idea. Last time out, that little ten pounder was keeping us right at the point where we stopped. With current or wind, the line would need to be longer, but the 40something feet of line we had that day worked. I've seen those big coffee cans filled with concrete and a rebar U poured into it that worked fine. |
Sorry, boating question
On Fri, 24 Apr 2009 20:18:43 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote: Sorry I didn't put in all the info. This is a 2 square mile lake, deepest part, 190 feet, but most of it 100' or less, and that's where the fish hang out. I have a 10# anchor that came with the boat, and it is of the smooth braided line, but is in two segments that total about 50' total. The bottom is mostly sandy or muddy, and not a lot of areas where there are rocks to catch on. Kind of like the braided, as it is easy on the hands. Manila or sisal would be harder on the hands, and actually 1/2' sounds good, although it is far stronger than needed. Just wanted comments and input as per longevity, cost, rate of wear, those things. Boat is 16' Aluminum Lund. No current. No wind. (If if's windy, I don't go, or go home.) Steve I'm with you on the 1/2" rode. I've got the room for 1/2", and the extra cost was worth the wear and tear on the hands. A set of these inserted in the line will let you know how much is out. They're handy. http://tinyurl.com/dz4aw6 -- John H "My reading of history convinces me that most bad government results from too much government." Thomas Jefferson |
Sorry, boating question
Went to HD today. 100' 3/8" nylon is $28. 100' 3/8" braided is $8 and
change. Why such a difference? I know sisal would be cheap, but the braided looks decent. Steve |
Sorry, boating question
On Sat, 25 Apr 2009 11:05:02 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote: "mmc" wrote in message ng.com... "SteveB" wrote in message ... Sorry I didn't put in all the info. This is a 2 square mile lake, deepest part, 190 feet, but most of it 100' or less, and that's where the fish hang out. I have a 10# anchor that came with the boat, and it is of the smooth braided line, but is in two segments that total about 50' total. The bottom is mostly sandy or muddy, and not a lot of areas where there are rocks to catch on. Kind of like the braided, as it is easy on the hands. Manila or sisal would be harder on the hands, and actually 1/2' sounds good, although it is far stronger than needed. Just wanted comments and input as per longevity, cost, rate of wear, those things. Boat is 16' Aluminum Lund. No current. No wind. (If if's windy, I don't go, or go home.) Steve Steve, If theres no wind or current and you just want to maintain position over a favorite spot, how about just using a weight? You wouldn't need a lot of line for scope and I'd think a 25 lb hunk of lead would work. For anchoring in rocks a welded rebar grapple works good. When, not if it gets caught, you can pull it out because the rebar will bend out. After you retrieve, you bend it back into shape. Lets see.......... I'm a welder, and I have all sorts of junk and rebar laying around. I wonder who I could get to make me one of those. Thanks for the great idea. Last time out, that little ten pounder was keeping us right at the point where we stopped. With current or wind, the line would need to be longer, but the 40something feet of line we had that day worked. I've seen those big coffee cans filled with concrete and a rebar U poured into it that worked fine. Here's a home made "grapple" type - no welding necessary. Looks like a real good idea. http://gulffishing.com/ClearwaterTragedy.html I had a small factory made "grapple" anchor years ago, only anchor I ever bought. Lead cyclinder with bendable rods imbedded in the lead. Suitable for a small boat or canoe. Maybe 18" long, 4-5 pounds. Backup, as I rented a lot of fishing boats. Had it in my tackle box for years but never even bent out the rods. Most of the rentals and our boat had coffee can concrete with a u-bolt. Occasionally a mushroom anchor. Lakes, no current. The ocean guys pay big money for anchors. Fun to read them arguing about them. Lots of "science" involved. Getting a set, backing down to set, diving to ensure a set, anchor alarms connected to GPS, etc. Pulling loose during a wind in the middle of the night in a crowded anchorage and drifting into each other, cussing, shouting. Waking up thinking you're drifting when you're not. Probably like a dream I've had about driving a car and the brakes don't work. Whole different ball game than dropping a coffee can, setting the fishing rod between your toe and falling asleep. --Vic |
Sorry, boating question
On Apr 25, 1:05*pm, "SteveB" wrote:
"mmc" wrote in message g.com... "SteveB" wrote in message ... Sorry I didn't put in all the info. *This is a 2 square mile lake, deepest part, 190 feet, but most of it 100' or less, and that's where the fish hang out. *I have a 10# anchor that came with the boat, and it is of the smooth braided line, but is in two segments that total about 50' total. The bottom is mostly sandy or muddy, and not a lot of areas where there are rocks to catch on. *Kind of like the braided, as it is easy on the hands. *Manila or sisal would be harder on the hands, and actually 1/2' sounds good, although it is far stronger than needed. *Just wanted comments and input as per longevity, cost, rate of wear, those things. Boat is 16' Aluminum Lund. *No current. *No wind. *(If if's windy, I don't go, or go home.) Steve Steve, If theres no wind or current and you just want to maintain position over a favorite spot, how about just using a weight? You wouldn't need a lot of line for scope and I'd think a 25 lb hunk of lead would work. For anchoring in rocks a welded rebar grapple works good. When, not if it gets caught, you can pull it out because the rebar will bend out. After you retrieve, you bend it back into shape. Lets see.......... I'm a welder, and I have all sorts of junk and rebar laying around. *I wonder who I could get to make me one of those. Thanks for the great idea. Last time out, that little ten pounder was keeping us right at the point where we stopped. *With current or wind, the line would need to be longer, but the 40something feet of line we had that day worked. I've seen those big coffee cans filled with concrete and a rebar U poured into it that worked fine. I can just hear the laughter over that idea....a new 20 foot Parker, with a trashy-looking coffee can anchor...lol. Leave that idea to the Dwarf Army idiots. If you cant afford a decent anchor, you cant afford to run a boat. |
Sorry, boating question
"Vic Smith" wrote in message ... On Sat, 25 Apr 2009 11:05:02 -0600, "SteveB" wrote: "mmc" wrote in message ing.com... "SteveB" wrote in message ... Sorry I didn't put in all the info. This is a 2 square mile lake, deepest part, 190 feet, but most of it 100' or less, and that's where the fish hang out. I have a 10# anchor that came with the boat, and it is of the smooth braided line, but is in two segments that total about 50' total. The bottom is mostly sandy or muddy, and not a lot of areas where there are rocks to catch on. Kind of like the braided, as it is easy on the hands. Manila or sisal would be harder on the hands, and actually 1/2' sounds good, although it is far stronger than needed. Just wanted comments and input as per longevity, cost, rate of wear, those things. Boat is 16' Aluminum Lund. No current. No wind. (If if's windy, I don't go, or go home.) Steve Steve, If theres no wind or current and you just want to maintain position over a favorite spot, how about just using a weight? You wouldn't need a lot of line for scope and I'd think a 25 lb hunk of lead would work. For anchoring in rocks a welded rebar grapple works good. When, not if it gets caught, you can pull it out because the rebar will bend out. After you retrieve, you bend it back into shape. Lets see.......... I'm a welder, and I have all sorts of junk and rebar laying around. I wonder who I could get to make me one of those. Thanks for the great idea. Last time out, that little ten pounder was keeping us right at the point where we stopped. With current or wind, the line would need to be longer, but the 40something feet of line we had that day worked. I've seen those big coffee cans filled with concrete and a rebar U poured into it that worked fine. Here's a home made "grapple" type - no welding necessary. Looks like a real good idea. http://gulffishing.com/ClearwaterTragedy.html I had a small factory made "grapple" anchor years ago, only anchor I ever bought. Lead cyclinder with bendable rods imbedded in the lead. Suitable for a small boat or canoe. Maybe 18" long, 4-5 pounds. Backup, as I rented a lot of fishing boats. Had it in my tackle box for years but never even bent out the rods. Most of the rentals and our boat had coffee can concrete with a u-bolt. Occasionally a mushroom anchor. Lakes, no current. The ocean guys pay big money for anchors. Fun to read them arguing about them. Lots of "science" involved. Getting a set, backing down to set, diving to ensure a set, anchor alarms connected to GPS, etc. Pulling loose during a wind in the middle of the night in a crowded anchorage and drifting into each other, cussing, shouting. Waking up thinking you're drifting when you're not. Probably like a dream I've had about driving a car and the brakes don't work. Whole different ball game than dropping a coffee can, setting the fishing rod between your toe and falling asleep. --Vic I used to dive a lot in Lake Mead and the Colorado River below Hoover dam. I found lots and lots of anchors. Some were really wedged in there! |
Sorry, boating question
On Apr 25, 10:33*pm, wrote:
On Apr 25, 1:05*pm, "SteveB" wrote: "mmc" wrote in message ng.com... "SteveB" wrote in message ... Sorry I didn't put in all the info. *This is a 2 square mile lake, deepest part, 190 feet, but most of it 100' or less, and that's where the fish hang out. *I have a 10# anchor that came with the boat, and it is of the smooth braided line, but is in two segments that total about 50' total. The bottom is mostly sandy or muddy, and not a lot of areas where there are rocks to catch on. *Kind of like the braided, as it is easy on the hands. *Manila or sisal would be harder on the hands, and actually 1/2' sounds good, although it is far stronger than needed. *Just wanted comments and input as per longevity, cost, rate of wear, those things. Boat is 16' Aluminum Lund. *No current. *No wind. *(If if's windy, I don't go, or go home.) Steve Steve, If theres no wind or current and you just want to maintain position over a favorite spot, how about just using a weight? You wouldn't need a lot of line for scope and I'd think a 25 lb hunk of lead would work. For anchoring in rocks a welded rebar grapple works good. When, not if it gets caught, you can pull it out because the rebar will bend out. After you retrieve, you bend it back into shape. Lets see.......... I'm a welder, and I have all sorts of junk and rebar laying around. *I wonder who I could get to make me one of those. Thanks for the great idea. Last time out, that little ten pounder was keeping us right at the point where we stopped. *With current or wind, the line would need to be longer, but the 40something feet of line we had that day worked. I've seen those big coffee cans filled with concrete and a rebar U poured into it that worked fine. I can just hear the laughter over that idea....a new 20 foot Parker, with a trashy-looking coffee can anchor...lol. Leave that idea to the Dwarf Army idiots. If you cant afford a decent anchor, you cant afford to run a boat.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - If it does the intended job well, what difference does it make? Oh, I get it, you are the type, that because you're a low life failure, that you need to have the store bought type, less someone make fun of you. Hmm, that makes me think of something, Harry is a low life vulgar piece of trash also, and also like you, he's a narcissist. |
Sorry, boating question
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