WiFi again.
 

OK, got the external WiFi antenna. Now I want to hook it into the Linksys wireless box we have on the boat now.

So what goes between the antenna and the Linksys box?

WiFi again.
 

capt.bill11 wrote in
:

So what goes between the antenna and the Linksys box?



Use LMR-400 cable. Get Radiolabs to make you a custom cable up to 40'
long.
http://www.radiolabs.com/products/cables/cable.php
The connectors for the various Linksys products are shown on their
webpages. Make sure you leave an extra foot on both ends so you're not
sorry!

No, RG-58 left over from your VHF radio pullout won't work on 2400 Mhz.
Put that out of your mind....


Larry
--
Democracy is when two wolves and a sheep vote on who's for dinner.
Liberty is when the sheep has his own gun.

Thanks Larry.

But the antenna came with the correct end fitting to hook to the Linksys box. But what I'm not sure about is whether by just hooking the WiFi antenna to one of the two antenna posts on the Linksys box I should then start picking up local WiFi sites?

Or do I need something that the antenna plugs into first then that "box" gets plugged into the eithernet in port on the Linksys box?

Because right now the WiFi antenna is hooked to the and we are in sight of a local hot spot but can not get to the internet via the Linksys box.
But we can if we sit on deck with just the WiFi cards in the laptops.
For what it's worth it's a WRT54GS Linksys box.

"No, RG-58 left over from your VHF radio pullout won't work on 2400 Mhz.
Put that out of your mind...."

It never was. :-)

WiFi again.
 

So what goes between the antenna and the Linksys box?

As little cable as possible.

Use LMR-400 cable. Get Radiolabs to make you a custom cable up to 40'
long.

Do not make this cable very long. DO NOT run it down an entire mast. The
dB loss will be greater than you want for WiFi. It's better to use an
enclosure that lets you keep the WiFi gear as close to the antenna as
possible. No, amplifiers will not work as effectively (at least not without
using VERY expensive ones).

-Bill Kearney

WiFi again.
 

Bill Kearney wrote:
So what goes between the antenna and the Linksys box?

As little cable as possible.

Use LMR-400 cable. Get Radiolabs to make you a custom cable up to 40'
long.

Do not make this cable very long. DO NOT run it down an entire mast. The
dB loss will be greater than you want for WiFi. It's better to use an
enclosure that lets you keep the WiFi gear as close to the antenna as
possible. No, amplifiers will not work as effectively (at least not without
using VERY expensive ones).

Neither one of these guys is completely right. Not yet. Look at the
specs here for the various LMR coaxial cables and decide which one best
meets your needs for your install:

http://timesmicrowave.com/content/pdf/lmr/184-185.pdf

I've used all LMR 100A, 200, 240, 300, and 400 in various combinations
and places and been happy with them all. Note that the names of the
various types of LMR coaxial cable is approximately the outside diameter
of the coax in hundredths of an inch (example, LMR-400 = .405" O.D.).

The most important factor can be the quality of the connectors and their
installation on the coax. The if the stripping and trimming is not done
right, connectors not fitted right carefully sealed, the signal losses
will increase remarkably.

Having the cable made is a good idea if you don't have the tools to do
it yourself.

I've done numerous 802.11B/G with coax runs of 50-100 feet of LMR-400
and added another 5 to 30 feet of LMR-200 or 240 to that to get through
walls, floors, and have some flexibility at the back of a PC.

There is one error in the brochure above, the minimum bending radius for
LMR-240 should read .75 feet (a 9 inch radius bend), not .75" (inches)
as listed.

Jack

--
Jack Erbes in Ellsworth, Maine, USA (jackerbes at adelphia dot net)
(also receiving email at jacker at midmaine dot com)

WiFi again.
 

capt.bill11 wrote:

Larry Wrote:

capt.bill11 wrote in
:
-
So what goes between the antenna and the Linksys box?

-

Use LMR-400 cable. Get Radiolabs to make you a custom cable up to 40'

long.
http://www.radiolabs.com/products/cables/cable.php
The connectors for the various Linksys products are shown on their
webpages. Make sure you leave an extra foot on both ends so you're not

sorry!

No, RG-58 left over from your VHF radio pullout won't work on 2400 Mhz.

Put that out of your mind....


Larry
--
Democracy is when two wolves and a sheep vote on who's for dinner.
Liberty is when the sheep has his own gun.



Thanks Larry.

But the antenna came with the correct end fitting to hook to the
Linksys box. But what I'm not sure about is whether by just hooking
the WiFi antenna to one of the two antenna posts on the Linksys box I
should then start picking up local WiFi sites?

Is there a piece of cable in between the connectors?

Do you have coax needed for the run or are you just trying to test it?

At any rate, you need to configure the Linksys box a little. Use a
network cable and connect you PC's network connector to one of the
network ports (not the WLAN or Wideband connector) on the Linksys
whatever it is.

Start a browser and enter address http://192.168.1.1/ (or maybe
http://192.168.100.1/, it should be in your manual).

Then leave the user name blank and enter the password "admin" (lower
case, leave the quote marks off).

That should take you to Setup on the Linksys. Somewhere in there will
be an option to use either one or both of the antennas. It may be under
Advanced Wireless Antenna Selection. You need to tell it which
antenna (right or left) you want to use and save that setting.

I recommend you leave the the standard "rubber ducky" antenna on the
connector you do not turn on. That will keep that side from "running
open" if the whatever it is resets itself to defaults.

If the new antenna is far enough away from the rubber ducky you may
later even find having both antennas on useful. It might be that it
will work better inside the boat or in one area of the boat or another.
On the other hand, it may do some strange things at the antenna.

Jack

--
Jack Erbes in Ellsworth, Maine, USA - jackerbes at adelphia dot net
(also receiving email at jacker at midmaine.com)

You might look at the specs for the Linksys box as the ads say it's a router - Access Point for WIFI. You're trying to connect one AP to another and they won't do it unless one changes personality. You really want a WET 54G to connect to the marina AP.

WiFi again.
 

Um... I think something is missing here....

The OP has a combination Router / Access point (WRT54GS). Good box,
but it is designed to broadcast a wire based Internet connection INTO
WiFi. And I think the OP is trying to use it to access an existing
remote WiFi...

If this is true, the short answer is: You got the wrong box. You
need something that will act as a 'WiFi receiver' or Wireless Client
(WET54G, or the Dlink DWL2100Ap running in Client Mode).

Put your antenna on one of these and it will 'receive' the remote WiFi
and present it on an Ethernet cable. You can then plug this into the
Ethernet port on your laptop and get longer range then using the built
in WiFi card.

Once you have established connection to a remote WiFi, it is possible
to plug this into the WAN port on your WRT54GS and then have in effect
a WiFi 'repeater' on your boat. You can then have your laptop just
connect over YOUR WiFi network you have set up using the WRT54GS.

I have used this setup a few times on Viking Star, but once it is all
set up and attached to a remote WiFi, I have not found a way to get
back into the Wireless Client (I am using a DWL2100AP) without
disconnecting the Ethernet cable from the WRT54GS and plugging it back
into the Laptop. One needs to do this in order to be able to select
which remote WiFi network to have the Wireless Client connect to.
However, once it is configured and working, it is really nice to have
a reliable WiFi based network on your own boat :-)

I hope this helps.

-al-






On Thu, 25 Jan 2007 21:36:55 +0000, capt.bill11
wrote:


OK, got the external WiFi antenna. Now I want to hook it into the
Linksys wireless box we have on the boat now.

So what goes between the antenna and the Linksys box?

WiFi again.
 

If this is true, the short answer is: You got the wrong box.

No, if he's got a WRT54GS he can load the dd-wrt firmware on it and use it
as a client just fine. I know, that's exactly what I've got in my boat.

Once you have established connection to a remote WiFi, it is possible
to plug this into the WAN port on your WRT54GS and then have in effect
a WiFi 'repeater' on your boat. You can then have your laptop just
connect over YOUR WiFi network you have set up using the WRT54GS.

Yes, if you want to have both a link to shore and a wifi network wirelessly
on the boat you'll definitely need two boxes. One can't act as both. One
can "supposedly" use some wifi devices as bridges or repeaters but that cuts
the bandwidth in half (can't do both at once) and in my experience it's
generally unreliable.

I have used this setup a few times on Viking Star, but once it is all
set up and attached to a remote WiFi, I have not found a way to get
back into the Wireless Client (I am using a DWL2100AP) without
disconnecting the Ethernet cable from the WRT54GS and plugging it back
into the Laptop. One needs to do this in order to be able to select
which remote WiFi network to have the Wireless Client connect to.
However, once it is configured and working, it is really nice to have
a reliable WiFi based network on your own boat :-)

I do it all the time without disconnecting anything. The on-boat network is
always on the same wifi SSID; conveniently called "boat" on our vessel. So
the laptops aboard always stay connected to the same network. I just surf
to the shore-link device, also always on a fixed IP address as part of the
"boat" network, and use that to pick an on-shore SSID. Works well.

-Bill Kearney

WiFi again.
 

You might look at the specs for the Linksys box as the ads say it's a
router - Access Point for WIFI. You're trying to connect one AP to
another and they won't do it unless one changes personality. You really
want a WET 54G to connect to the marina AP.

You can load the dd-wrt firmware on it and use it for quite a bit more than
what the factory firmware offers.

WiFi again.
 

On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 22:40:34 -0500, "Bill Kearney"
wkearney-99@hot-mail-com wrote:

If this is true, the short answer is: You got the wrong box.

No, if he's got a WRT54GS he can load the dd-wrt firmware on it and use it
as a client just fine. I know, that's exactly what I've got in my boat.

Yes, noticed he had the GS version (though I understand there is now
workarounds for almost all version of the WRT54G, even the latest
one). But I think for most people purchasing a device already
configures for use as a Wireless Client is more straight forward then
reflashing. In any case, he will need to get two boxes, right? But
you are right, he could purchase either another WRT54GS and re-flash
the open firmware, or just purchase a Wireless Client.


I have used this setup a few times on Viking Star, but once it is all
set up and attached to a remote WiFi, I have not found a way to get
back into the Wireless Client (I am using a DWL2100AP) without
disconnecting the Ethernet cable from the WRT54GS and plugging it back
into the Laptop.

I do it all the time without disconnecting anything. The on-boat network is
always on the same wifi SSID; conveniently called "boat" on our vessel. So
the laptops aboard always stay connected to the same network. I just surf
to the shore-link device, also always on a fixed IP address as part of the
"boat" network, and use that to pick an on-shore SSID. Works well.


Do you give your shore-link / wireless client device an fixed IP
address within your 'boats' IP range? That is what I am doing and
works great. Can talk to the DWL2100AP no problem. Search for a
network and select it as appropriate. But what I have found is that
once I connect to a shore based station, unless that station happens
to use the same IP range as the IP address assigned to my shore-link
device I can no longer access it. If the shore based IP range is
within the fixed IP address of my shore-link box, then I can continue
to reach it no problem.... Are you able to continue to communicate
with your shore-link no matter what the shore base station uses for
its IP ranges?


This is an area where my knowledge runs out :-)

-al-

WiFi again.
 

Al Thomason wrote:
On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 22:40:34 -0500, "Bill Kearney"
wkearney-99@hot-mail-com wrote:

If this is true, the short answer is: You got the wrong box.
No, if he's got a WRT54GS he can load the dd-wrt firmware on it and use it
as a client just fine. I know, that's exactly what I've got in my boat.

Yes, noticed he had the GS version (though I understand there is now
workarounds for almost all version of the WRT54G, even the latest
one). But I think for most people purchasing a device already
configures for use as a Wireless Client is more straight forward then
reflashing. In any case, he will need to get two boxes, right? But
you are right, he could purchase either another WRT54GS and re-flash
the open firmware, or just purchase a Wireless Client.

I think you need to have the version 4.x or earlier WRT-54 models to re
flash the firmware and one of the third party firmwares. The newest
version 5.0 and up models have less RAM and flash memory and can't
support the linux based re flashes. More details he

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WRT54G

Jack

--
Jack Erbes in Ellsworth, Maine, USA (jackerbes at adelphia dot net)
(also receiving email at jacker at midmaine dot com)

WiFi again.
 

In any case, he will need to get two boxes, right?

Yes, two boxes. One to make the link to the shore and the other to provide
an on-boat wireless network. You could get away with just one making the
shore connection. But then you'd have to use a wired connection to any
other computers onboard. Which you could do, as I've done, by running a
single ethernet wire down from the shore-link router to a wired switch.
Then connect your computer(s) there. I found it was better to have wireless
to avoid the tripping hazards cables pose.

Do you give your shore-link / wireless client device an fixed IP
address within your 'boats' IP range?

Yes. On the boat I use a 172.16.x.x/255.255.0.0 range of addresses. This
helps avoid conflicts with anything on shore using a
192.168.x.x/255.255.255.0 range. The access point on the boat uses
172.16.x.2 and the shore-link router in the radar arch uses 172.16.x.1. So
I just keep a web browser bookmark setup for http://172.16.x.1 and use that
to configure the router when we get anchored. It's worked really well.

And when I mention 172.16.x.x the 'x' is a number from 1 to 255. I simply x
out the ones I use for the sake of, well, privacy. That and should someone
else happen to get networked along with me somewhere on the Chesapeake it
cuts down on the likely conflict. You could just as well use 172.16.1.x,
172.16.88.x or anything else up to 255.

172.16.x.x using a Class B subnet of 255.255.0.0 is one of the private
network numbers that can be used for devices that are not directly connected
to the Internet. The 192.168.x.x Class C 255.255.255.0 is another one.
(note the difference in subnet masks) You can use either. Most folks don't
know about private addressing so get stuck with just the 192.168.x.x
numbering. But know this, you SHOULD NOT just make up numbering. Always
use the legitimate private network numbers. Otherwise you'd be screwed
if/when you actually need to route to something on the same addressing as
something you've 'made up'.

Are you able to continue to communicate
with your shore-link no matter what the shore base station uses for
its IP ranges?

Yes, routing is such that a local network is going to get priority anyway.
But since I use the 172.16.x.x range of private addresses the chances of
conflict are really quite low. Even if the shore network was on the same
range it's my on-boat network that's handling the packets first. I have the
shore-link router acting as a client but also running DHCP services. The
on-boat router runs nothing, it's just an access point. The ethernet wire
goes between the LAN side of each router. The WAN ports on both of them are
unused. I actually run my gear all into one ethernet switch. That's also
where my Raymarine E-80 is networked along with the SR1000 Sirius marine
weather unit. It's all worked quite nicely this past summer.

-Bill Kearney

WiFi again.
 

I think you need to have the version 4.x or earlier WRT-54 models to re
flash the firmware and one of the third party firmwares. The newest
version 5.0 and up models have less RAM and flash memory and can't
support the linux based re flashes.

Generally, yes, it's better to have the 4.0 and earlier hardware versions.
Or get one of the new ones specifically noted as WRT54GL with L indicating
Linux. You can use a 'micro' version of the firmware on the new version 5
and later boxes. And for a simple shore-link and access point setup that's
actually sufficient.

I scoured fleabay for a couple of weeks and picked up several 4.0 and
earlier units just so I'd have spares.

Then there's also the new units from Buffalo. Check the
http://www.dd-wrt.com website to find out which models are supported.

-Bill Kearney

WiFi again.
 

capt.bill11 wrote in
:

But the antenna came with the correct end fitting to hook to the
Linksys box. But what I'm not sure about is whether by just hooking
the WiFi antenna to one of the two antenna posts on the Linksys box I
should then start picking up local WiFi sites?

Whoa! This is a broadband ROUTER, not a BRIDGE or GATEWAY or REPEATER
(keywords). It's made to be the SOURCE of wifi broadband, connected to a
cable modem or DSL modem via Ethernet....NOT a wifi listening device, a
receiver connectable to other wifi systems.

The two antennas are called "space diversity antennas". They both
transceive the same signals and listen to the same channels. A "voter"
in the box determines which antenna has the best signal from your wifi
laptop/PDA/Skype Phone and uses that antenna. (My Netgear has 7 antennas
built into its internal phased array panel.)

You can't connect a wifi router to a wifi access point, then repeat what
it says to another wifi box like a laptop. The data flow is from the
Ethernet WAN port. It has no way to connect to a wifi hotspot.

I'm using a Linksys "Range Expander" in my car:
http://www.linksys.com/servlet/Satel...ldpagename=US%
2FLayout&cid=1130267578138&pagename=Linksys%2FComm on%2FVisitorWrapper
This box IS a wifi repeater station. You put it on the edge of usable
wifi coverage from a wifi hotspot and it REPEATS the hotspot data, bi-
directionally, with wifi devices (laptop and Skype Phone here) that would
normally be out-of-range of that hotspot. At my local Denny's, there's
an unprotected linksys wifi router that has a lousy signal INSIDE the
metal old-fashioned diner style restaurant (Nothing at Denny's is DINER
PRICED, however, another matter.) So, when I carry my laptop or Skype
Phone into Denny's for breakfast, I plug this 110VAC repeater into a 75W
inverter-in-a-cigarette-lighter-plug, into the 12V port on my dash. The
AC line runs out the door seal to the Linksys repeater laying flat on the
roof with its little plastic antenna sticking up (it rotates). Signal
from the weak hotspot INSIDE Denny's goes from 1 bar to 4 bars out of 5
on the little Netgear Skype Phone, and I have solid phone service at
breakfast through it.

Repeating DOES have a drawback! If you add the time it takes to receive
data, store it, then transmit it back out to another wifi device, that
takes TWICE as long as connecting directly....for boxes like mine. Data
comes in half as fast as it did directly, but with a much better signal
that doesn't fade and dropout. For just browsing, Skyping, all but
downloading big files, it matters not but is something to think about.

Now....to get faster service....you need to buy a high powered Access
Point and run Ethernet from the access point up the mast to the computer
in the boat. That means the AP needs to be up the mast, powered by one
cable and Ethernet cable comes down the mast, not RF coax cable. If you
put another router on the other end of that Ethernet cable, you end up
with the problem of the second router inside the boat, which wirelessly
would connect to your laptop, INTERFERING with the receiver up the mast
talking to the hotspot....slowing us down to repeater speed, or worse as
it's not synchronized if the hotspot can't hear your laptop direct to
avoid crashing the signals simultaneously transmitting. RF on the air
ISN'T clairvoyant or magic...it's ANALOG.


Or do I need something that the antenna plugs into first then that
"box" gets plugged into the eithernet in port on the Linksys box?

That box won't work to connect to the hotspot. You need an ACCESS POINT
up the mast that REPLACES the wireless transceiver inside your laptop.
You connect the mast-topped AP to the computer via Ethernet wires.

These access points look like:
http://www.linksys.com/servlet/Satel...ldpagename=US%
2FLayout&cid=1133201998719&pagename=Linksys%2FComm on%2FVisitorWrapper
Now, THIS product solves running TWO wires up the mast because it adds
the DC power to run the AP at the remote location (mast top) to the
Ethernet data on the Ethernet cable. At the computer end of the wire,
there is an interface box that you plug AC or DC power into and run the
Ethernet connections through it where it adds DC power without screwing
the data. Notice all access points have WAP in their Linksys model
numbers.



Because right now the WiFi antenna is hooked to the and we are in sight
of a local hot spot but can not get to the internet via the Linksys
box.
But we can if we sit on deck with just the WiFi cards in the laptops.
For what it's worth it's a WRT54GS Linksys box.



This is because the WR (wireless router) has no facility to connect to
another wireless access point. It is not an access point, itself. You
got the wrong box....WAP54GPE or my little wireless repeater box is the
box you need. Sorry....

Larry
--
Democracy is when two wolves and a sheep vote on who's for dinner.
Liberty is when the sheep has his own gun.

WiFi again.
 

Whoa! This is a broadband ROUTER, not a BRIDGE or GATEWAY or REPEATER

No, it CAN be a device like that. If you load some other firmware is can
quite readily be used as a client device. I know, I've done it and it works
quite well. Same thing goes for other devices capable of loading the dd-wrt
firmware. Easy, reliable and cheap.

You can't connect a wifi router to a wifi access point, then repeat what
it says to another wifi box like a laptop.

Again, not correct. You CAN use one as a WDS device. It's basically a
repeater of sorts. And in the process of doing this wastes half the
bandwidth. Listens on the radio, processes the packets, then retransmits on
the same radio. It's not a full duplex operation. Thus while you CAN do
this it's generally a waste of effort because it's slow. Then there's also
the limitation that some networks won't interact with repeaters. Not to
mention the fact that the type of antenna you'd likely use up on the mast
won't give decent coverage down to the deck and cabins below.

The data flow is from the
Ethernet WAN port. It has no way to connect to a wifi hotspot.

It's a ROUTER, it can be configured to sling the packets around in any
direction. Assuming you'd want to, which I'd recommend against.

Why bother using an AC inverter? Many wifi devices work quite well off
12vDC.

Now....to get faster service....you need to buy a high powered Access
Point

Higher power is a myth. Higher power often gets you more signals than you
want, thus degrading the available bandwidth to the actual networks you
need. I can crank my WRT54GS to 250mw but found it works best at about
30mw. What's most important is to get a device that lets you adjust the
power settings and to keep them as low as possible. Both from a noise and a
heat perspective. Cranking a router up to it's full wattage often makes
them unstable. Couple that with being up on the mast in direct sunlight and
you'd have troubles.

If you
put another router on the other end of that Ethernet cable, you end up
with the problem of the second router inside the boat, which wirelessly
would connect to your laptop, INTERFERING with the receiver up the mast
talking to the hotspot....slowing us down to repeater speed, or worse as
it's not synchronized if the hotspot can't hear your laptop direct to
avoid crashing the signals simultaneously transmitting. RF on the air
ISN'T clairvoyant or magic...it's ANALOG.

Bull**** all around. The point is to set your boat's access point to a
different frequency and to use a low power setting with proper antennae. I
found our on-boat network worked best at about 10mw with just the regular
rubber duckie antennae on it. No interference whatsoever. That and it
doesn't interfere with the up-mast router because that antenna's radiation
pattern (donut shaped on the horizontal plane) doesn't extend downward to
the cabin. And since the on-boat access point is set to a low power it
doesn't interfere with the shore networks either. Same thing goes for the
on-boat laptops, they're also configured to use a lower power setting and
thus only see the on-boat SSID.

Now, THIS product solves running TWO wires up the mast because it adds
the DC power to run the AP at the remote location (mast top) to the
Ethernet data on the Ethernet cable.

Power over Ethernet (PoE) is nothing new. Most routers support it or you
can use an adapter to split the cable to support it. Bear in mind the
further you push DC voltage the more drop you'll have due to skinny wire. I
found it was more reliable to just run 16ga for power right to the router.

This is because the WR (wireless router) has no facility to connect to
another wireless access point. It is not an access point, itself. You
got the wrong box....WAP54GPE or my little wireless repeater box is the
box you need. Sorry....

Or you need advice that's accurate. Loading up new firmware opens quite a
few more options for some models of router. Try it, it works quite nicely.

-Bill Kearney

WiFi again.
 

On Sun, 28 Jan 2007 15:32:08 -0500, "Bill Kearney"
wkearney-99@hot-mail-com wrote:
I have the
shore-link router acting as a client but also running DHCP services. The
on-boat router runs nothing, it's just an access point. The ethernet wire
goes between the LAN side of each router. The WAN ports on both of them are
unused. I actually run my gear all into one ethernet switch. That's also
where my Raymarine E-80 is networked along with the SR1000 Sirius marine
weather unit. It's all worked quite nicely this past summer.

-Bill Kearney

Ok, so I have configured a little differently. I use the on-board
WRT54G as an access point as you do, but also use the NAT/DHCP
services in it and I bring in the Wireless Client in through the WAN
port.

I chose to do it this way to be able to preserve the hardware firewall
in the WRT54, separating my on-board network from what ever I attach
to. With more and more open WiFi systems being hosted at a municipal
level (and hence lots of different users on these open WiFi networks),
I want to keep a firewall between me and any outside network I connect
to.

I though about configuring as you have, sure would have solved the
access issues to the Shorelink / Wireless Enternet device I am having,
but I could not see a way to keep a firewall. With your
configuration, is there a firewall in your shorelink / Wireless
client, or somewhere else? Does the open Firmware retain that
capability even when running in Shorelink / Wireless Ethernet mode?

-al-

WiFi again.
 

Ok, so I have configured a little differently. I use the on-board
WRT54G as an access point as you do, but also use the NAT/DHCP
services in it and I bring in the Wireless Client in through the WAN
port.

Yes, if you're actually using a wireless client device then you'd be wise to
think about the firewall issues. Good setup.

I though about configuring as you have, sure would have solved the
access issues to the Shorelink / Wireless Enternet device I am having,
but I could not see a way to keep a firewall. With your
configuration, is there a firewall in your shorelink / Wireless
client, or somewhere else? Does the open Firmware retain that
capability even when running in Shorelink / Wireless Ethernet mode?

When I use my shore-link unit it's acting as a gateway so it's firewall
features are preserved. So the shore sees my client as a single connection.
Then all traffic is routed through that same WRT54GS using it's firewall
features. The on-boat network is just an access point. The dd-wrt firmware
handles all this without much configuring at all.

-Bill Kearney

WiFi again.
 

That setup sounds very clean but what do you do about power? The WRT54GS
comes standard at 63mw and if you boost it over 100mw it will over heat.

The 200mw out of my little EUB-362 in my traveling set up makes a major
difference in usable range.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Yes, that is the answer.

Been away from the dock for a rew days. But in the mean time we did find out that the Linksys box we already had will not work as we wish it to. So a new box is on the way that we have been told can both receive and broadcast WiFi. We'll see. And I'll let you all know.

Thanks to all, Capt. Bill

WiFi again.
 

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in
:

That setup sounds very clean but what do you do about power? The
WRT54GS comes standard at 63mw and if you boost it over 100mw it will
over heat.

The 200mw out of my little EUB-362 in my traveling set up makes a
major difference in usable range.


I used to think that mattered. It doesn't because the hotspot you're
connecting to ISN'T running 200mw, probably closer to 50. If I'm running a
kilowatt and you're running a watt, you can always hear me, but I can only
hear you so far. Overkill doesn't seem to fix it....2400 Mhz is line of
sight at any power level less than 1KW where tropospheric ducting will take
it over the horizon:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN/TRC-97A_Radio
That won't do you any good unless the marina wifi uses one, too...(c;

Larry
--
Democracy is when two wolves and a sheep vote on who's for dinner.
Liberty is when the sheep has his own gun.

WiFi again.
 

It may be true that most US marina hot spots run under 65mw but most of the
commercial services (and a few altruistic souls) with APs aimed at
anchorages in the Caribbean run 200mw or more.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Larry" wrote in message
...
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in
:

That setup sounds very clean but what do you do about power? The
WRT54GS comes standard at 63mw and if you boost it over 100mw it will
over heat.

The 200mw out of my little EUB-362 in my traveling set up makes a
major difference in usable range.


I used to think that mattered. It doesn't because the hotspot you're
connecting to ISN'T running 200mw, probably closer to 50. If I'm running
a
kilowatt and you're running a watt, you can always hear me, but I can only
hear you so far. Overkill doesn't seem to fix it....2400 Mhz is line of
sight at any power level less than 1KW where tropospheric ducting will
take
it over the horizon:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN/TRC-97A_Radio
That won't do you any good unless the marina wifi uses one, too...(c;

Larry
--
Democracy is when two wolves and a sheep vote on who's for dinner.
Liberty is when the sheep has his own gun.

OK, so now we are being told the new box we have ordered will not work with the Linksys WRT54GS router we already have.

I'm begining to think this person we are dealing with has never really done this before.

We have the outdoor/marine WiFi antenna and the Linksys box. So, what else do we need? Please list brand/s and model number/s.

Can we make the Linksys box work with a firmware update/change?

Or should we just start over with different boxes?

And please feel free to spell things out like I'm an idiot. Cause while I'm up on most all marine electronics, WiFi set ups are still new to me.

Thanks.

WiFi again.
 

OK, so now we are being told the new box we have ordered will not work
with the Linksys WRT54GS router we already have.

What 'new box'?

It's pretty simple, you need two radios. One to make the link to shore and
the other to provide an on-boat wireless network. I've had success using a
pair of WRT54GS routers to do this. I've loaded the dd-wrt firmware on
them. It works quite well. There are any number of other ways you could
configure it. But given the low cost and wide availabiilty of dd-wrt
compatible routers, well, why bother?

WiFi again.
 

That setup sounds very clean but what do you do about power? The WRT54GS
comes standard at 63mw and if you boost it over 100mw it will over heat.

As I said, in testing I've found it's completely uncessary to use higher
power settings. When using an omnidirectional antenna and higher power
settings you end up picking up MORE signals than you want. This actually
degrades performance. Now, if you were in an area with only 1 or 2 shore
networks then it might be worth using higher settings.

As for overheating, I've cranked my WRT54GSv4 to 200mw and it worked just
fine. This was for an anchorage in St.Mary's that had only one SSID showing
up. Raising the power to 150mw got me the signal needed. Otherwise I
usually leave it at the factory settings (or close to it). I've never had
an overheating problem.

The 200mw out of my little EUB-362 in my traveling set up makes a major
difference in usable range.

All I can say is my experience dictates otherwise.

-Bill Kearney

What part of "talk to me like an idiot" did you not get Bill? :-)

The other box was/is a receiver box. But it apparently will not work with the Linksys we now have. Or so we have been told.

What is a dd-wrt router?

I'm assuming it both receives and broad casts WiFi?

And do you recomment an particular brand over an others?

Have the model number for a Linksys or other dd-wrt handy?

I called Linksys support and very carefully explained to them what I was trying to do but they tried to tell me it could not be done. Of course me not speaking Hindi may have been the problem.

Thanks.

WiFi again.
 

I have an OT question regarding a Linksys WGA54G.
Bill, I wondered if you know what the 0-100% signal strength gage in the
above game adapter means in dBm received? I am using the adapter to
access my neighbor's WiFi network and see 20% signal at some 300' range.
Thank you,
Dick

Or, how about this as a simpler solution.

We have a marine wifi antenna and a Hawking HSB1 signal amp. So if I get the right adapter and hook the marine antenna to the incoming side of the Hawking amp, that should pull the wifi signal into the boat and boost it in the boat via the Hawking. Correct?

At least that seem to be what a lot of the "marine" wifi kits are made up of.

WiFi again.
 

I called Linksys support and very carefully explained to them what I
was trying to do but they tried to tell me it could not be done. Of
course me not speaking Hindi may have been the problem.

Visit the http://www.dd-wrt.com website. It has what's called a 3rd party
firmware for the WRT54 series of routers. When using that you can
reconfigure the router to act as a client. That's what I've done on my
boat. I have no other amplifiers; they generally don't work anyway (at
least no better than with proper antennae setup)

Yes, the linksys people are dumb as a bag of hammers. Of course they don't
know jack about dd-wrt. They make a cheap box, buy it and RUN from their
support. If it breaks, well, it was cheap anyway. That's why I laid in a
couple of spares.

If you're not prepared to learn the geek aspects of this you might just be
better off buying one of the packaged marine wifi setups. I've never used
one so I have no opinions regarding how well they work or not.

-Bill Kearney

WiFi again.
 

I have an OT question regarding a Linksys WGA54G.
Bill, I wondered if you know what the 0-100% signal strength gage in the
above game adapter means in dBm received? I am using the adapter to
access my neighbor's WiFi network and see 20% signal at some 300' range.

How should I know? I don't have the game adapter. But 300' using the
factory antenna is big distance.

WiFi again.
 

In article ,
capt.bill11 wrote:

capt.bill11 Wrote:
What part of "talk to me like an idiot" did you not get Bill? :-)

The other box was/is a receiver box. But it apparently will not work
with the Linksys we now have. Or so we have been told.

What is a dd-wrt router?

I'm assuming it both receives and broad casts WiFi?

And do you recomment an particular brand over an others?

Have the model number for a Linksys or other dd-wrt handy?

I called Linksys support and very carefully explained to them what I
was trying to do but they tried to tell me it could not be done. Of
course me not speaking Hindi may have been the problem.

Thanks.

Or, how about this as a simpler solution.

We have a marine wifi antenna and a Hawking HSB1 signal amp. So if I
get the right adapter and hook the marine antenna to the incoming side
of the Hawking amp, that should pull the wifi signal into the boat and
boost it in the boat via the Hawking. Correct?

At least that seem to be what a lot of the "marine" wifi kits are made
up of.

Actually if you go look at the Spec's of the HSB1, first, you will find
that they are no longer in production, and second, the HSB2 is basically
only a Tx amp with some Rx filtering for adjacent channel interference.
It doesn't "Pull" anything but would allow for increased Output Power
of up to 500 milliwatts.

Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @

WiFi again.
 

Actually the HSB2 does have some receive gain. The specs say 10-12dbm but
switching mine in and out between a WAP54G and an 8db antenna I can only see
about 7 or 8db improvement. For pulling in at a distance however my
EUB-362EXT will eat it for lunch.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Bruce in Alaska" wrote in message
...
In article ,
capt.bill11 wrote:

capt.bill11 Wrote:
What part of "talk to me like an idiot" did you not get Bill? :-)

The other box was/is a receiver box. But it apparently will not work
with the Linksys we now have. Or so we have been told.

What is a dd-wrt router?

I'm assuming it both receives and broad casts WiFi?

And do you recomment an particular brand over an others?

Have the model number for a Linksys or other dd-wrt handy?

I called Linksys support and very carefully explained to them what I
was trying to do but they tried to tell me it could not be done. Of
course me not speaking Hindi may have been the problem.

Thanks.

Or, how about this as a simpler solution.

We have a marine wifi antenna and a Hawking HSB1 signal amp. So if I
get the right adapter and hook the marine antenna to the incoming side
of the Hawking amp, that should pull the wifi signal into the boat and
boost it in the boat via the Hawking. Correct?

At least that seem to be what a lot of the "marine" wifi kits are made
up of.

Actually if you go look at the Spec's of the HSB1, first, you will find
that they are no longer in production, and second, the HSB2 is basically
only a Tx amp with some Rx filtering for adjacent channel interference.
It doesn't "Pull" anything but would allow for increased Output Power
of up to 500 milliwatts.

Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @

If you're not prepared to learn the geek aspects of this you might just be
better off buying one of the packaged marine wifi setups. I've never used
one so I have no opinions regarding how well they work or not.

-Bill Kearney[/quote]

I have no problem learning the geek aspects of this. That is why I am here asking questions.

Thanks for everyones help.