On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 00:33:57 GMT, frank1492
wrote:

I noticed that the site I just mentioned sells O-rings for the
Datamarine transducer. I think that is what I may have seen
protruding out around the base of the transducer housing.
Couldn't tell what it was at first, but certainly if that's what it
was, bilge water could get in. Am I on to something? And
what would cause an O-ring to pop out of place or stretch
like that?

If you undo the "wing nut" you mentioned, you should be able to pull
the transducer out of the through-hull housing (have a rag handy to
stuff in the resulting hole!)(If you do this, you will get a large
water fountain - just stuff the rag into the through-hull fitting -
the water pressure will be very low.)

The "O-rings" you mentioned will go on the transducer, to prevent
water from entering between the transducer and housing. The rubber
thing you see against the hull is just a rubber washer (or more likely
excess sealant).



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

If you have read all my messages, would you agree that the
transducer itself is likely the cause of the problem? If something
else is likely (or possible) I need to be careful because the
transducer will cost about $170.
Are you saying that when I pull the transducer out, the
hole will go all the way through? Seems pretty risky with the
boat in the water. I assumed that it would be like a chamber
with the bottom sealed off so that I would just drop the
transducer in with no "fountain."
Thank you very much for your help!!
Frank



On Wed, 12 Jul 2006 18:32:21 -0700, Peter Bennett
wrote:

On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 00:33:57 GMT, frank1492
wrote:

I noticed that the site I just mentioned sells O-rings for the
Datamarine transducer. I think that is what I may have seen
protruding out around the base of the transducer housing.
Couldn't tell what it was at first, but certainly if that's what it
was, bilge water could get in. Am I on to something? And
what would cause an O-ring to pop out of place or stretch
like that?

If you undo the "wing nut" you mentioned, you should be able to pull
the transducer out of the through-hull housing (have a rag handy to
stuff in the resulting hole!)(If you do this, you will get a large
water fountain - just stuff the rag into the through-hull fitting -
the water pressure will be very low.)

The "O-rings" you mentioned will go on the transducer, to prevent
water from entering between the transducer and housing. The rubber
thing you see against the hull is just a rubber washer (or more likely
excess sealant).

A couple of things frank:

- datamarine may be out of business, but there are two companies that sell
parts. One is dmi marine at www.dmimarine.com - the other, I forget, but a
google search should bring them up - I think they are both in the same town
in Mass - Pocasset?

- If you get a reading, it may be that something is interfering with the
transducer - It should not have any anti-fouling paint on it. There should
also be nothing else like say part of the hull or engine that could cause an
echo - the beam has quite a wide angle - forget the number but probably
about 30 degrees.

- Stupid questions, but do you have more than 2.1 ft below the transducer
when docked!

BTW, don't worry about pulling the transducer (if it is of the retractable
type). It would be best to have a plug that you can use to stop the water
coming in - Most units were supplied with blank plugs when new, but a rag or
tapered softwood plug would suffice for a short period. A spare set of hand
s may help. Try cleaning the unit and dropping it over the side to see if
you can get a different reading.

BUT, I have a Datamarine depthsounder myself (different model), and the
transducer cannot be pulled - It is permanently installed - If it is
removable, there should be two nuts - one that holds the thruhull in an done
at the top that holds the xducer into the thruhull.

Finally - You can buy a complete new depthsounder with a transom mount for
less than $169, so shop around!

Good Luck!


"frank1492" wrote in message
...
If you have read all my messages, would you agree that the
transducer itself is likely the cause of the problem? If something
else is likely (or possible) I need to be careful because the
transducer will cost about $170.
Are you saying that when I pull the transducer out, the
hole will go all the way through? Seems pretty risky with the
boat in the water. I assumed that it would be like a chamber
with the bottom sealed off so that I would just drop the
transducer in with no "fountain."
Thank you very much for your help!!
Frank

On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 02:08:11 GMT, frank1492
wrote:

If you have read all my messages, would you agree that the
transducer itself is likely the cause of the problem? If something
else is likely (or possible) I need to be careful because the
transducer will cost about $170.

I suspect that the transducer is the most likely problem, if there are
no obvious problems with the wiring or connectors. Best way to check
would be to borrow a transducer from a dealer, and try jut hanging it
over the side of the boat.

Are you saying that when I pull the transducer out, the
hole will go all the way through? Seems pretty risky with the
boat in the water. I assumed that it would be like a chamber
with the bottom sealed off so that I would just drop the
transducer in with no "fountain."
Thank you very much for your help!!
Frank

The speedo transducer will certainly pull out, and leave a big hole,
because you occasionally (often?) need to pull it to evict the marine
beasties that settle around the paddlewheel. If I recall correctly,
the depth sounder transducers I had on previous boats were one piece -
the through-hull fitting was part of the transducer, so the transducer
could not be pulled out. (but other makes may be different)


--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

In article .com,
Peter Bennett wrote:

I suspect that the transducer is the most likely problem, if there are
no obvious problems with the wiring or connectors. Best way to check
would be to borrow a transducer from a dealer, and try jut hanging it
over the side of the boat.

Actually, the "Best" way to check a transducer is with an Impedance
Bridge designed specifically for looking at Barium Titonate Transducer
Crystals, but few Marine Electronic Shops have these. One of the other
test that can be done, is to stick the transducer up to your ear and
listen for the "tick tick tick" of the transmitting pulse, while the
depthsounder is operating. If the crystal is fractured, or the wires
open, or shorted, you will not hear the "tick tick tick" and it is time
to go buy a new transducer.

Bruce in alaska an old Marine RadioMan, from the Old School.....
--
add a 2 before @

frank1492 wrote:
If you have read all my messages, would you agree that the
transducer itself is likely the cause of the problem? If something
else is likely (or possible) I need to be careful because the
transducer will cost about $170.
Are you saying that when I pull the transducer out, the
hole will go all the way through? Seems pretty risky with the
boat in the water. I assumed that it would be like a chamber
with the bottom sealed off so that I would just drop the
transducer in with no "fountain."

From the link you posted:

http://www.ess-kayyards.com/catalog/page11.html

Look at the item:

Datamarine Depth Replacement Core $129.99
Replacement core for Datamarine Depth Sounder. For transducer models
S200DL, LX201, Link 5100/6100 and All Dart models.

That is a removable transducer. It slides down into a through hull
fitting that looks sort of like a top hat.

When the transducer is slid down into the through hull fitting, the
flange on the top of it stops it in the fully inserted position (flush
with the fitting on the "wet side" outside of the hull). It will
usually have an small key that matches a notch in the top of the through
hull for fore and aft alignment too.

Then, typically, there is another threaded collar (the transducer cable
runs through that collar) that screws down onto the top of the through
hull and that traps the transducer in place. If there is not a threaded
collar, there may be a SS clevis pin that goes through the through hull
fitting and the transducer body to keep it in place.

If that is a plastic or nylon through hull fitting, the warning about
hand tightening refers to the nut that holds the through hull fitting in
the boat and it may also be referring to a collar that keep the
transducer in place. Those are plastic or nylon, if you go after them
with a pipe wrench or water pump pliers you will run the risk of
breaking them from over tightening. If it breaks and the through hull
fitting or transducer pops out, you will have a 2" hole in your hull
below the waterline.

I would remove the retaining collar or pull the clevis pin (keeping a
hand on the transducer) and then try to raise it up a little. It will
normally be keyed to the through hull for fore and aft alignment and
cannot be rotated in the through hull until it has been raised up a
little.

If it seems to want to come out, stifle the terror in your heart, get
your rag ready, slide the transducer up, and plug the hole with the rag.
A quart or two of water down there won't hurt anything and can be
refreshing on a hot day.

If you look through the stuff that came with the boat, you may find a
plastic plug that looks like the transducer body. It may be for the
speed impeller so make sure it fits before you count on it being used to
plug the depth transducer fitting.

If you have to leave the rag in place for a day or two, drape another
rag over it down around the through hull fitting, and tie it in place
snugly with piece of line or use a radiator clamp gently so as to not
damage the threads or through hull fitting.

Use silicone O-ring lube (Lowes or Home Depot, where the home water
filters are usually) on the O-rings and outside of the transducer body
and it will always be easy to remove.

Jack

--
Jack Erbes in Ellsworth, Maine, USA - jackerbes at adelphia dot net
(also receiving email at jacker at midmaine.com)

Thank you Jack! The "terror in my heart" is no longer the
prospect of sinking the boat, but the $150 I would have to pay
to get the boat pulled so I could access the transducer from
the bottom!






On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 07:34:42 -0400, Jack Erbes
wrote:

frank1492 wrote:
If you have read all my messages, would you agree that the
transducer itself is likely the cause of the problem? If something
else is likely (or possible) I need to be careful because the
transducer will cost about $170.
Are you saying that when I pull the transducer out, the
hole will go all the way through? Seems pretty risky with the
boat in the water. I assumed that it would be like a chamber
with the bottom sealed off so that I would just drop the
transducer in with no "fountain."

From the link you posted:

http://www.ess-kayyards.com/catalog/page11.html

Look at the item:

Datamarine Depth Replacement Core $129.99
Replacement core for Datamarine Depth Sounder. For transducer models
S200DL, LX201, Link 5100/6100 and All Dart models.

That is a removable transducer. It slides down into a through hull
fitting that looks sort of like a top hat.

When the transducer is slid down into the through hull fitting, the
flange on the top of it stops it in the fully inserted position (flush
with the fitting on the "wet side" outside of the hull). It will
usually have an small key that matches a notch in the top of the through
hull for fore and aft alignment too.

Then, typically, there is another threaded collar (the transducer cable
runs through that collar) that screws down onto the top of the through
hull and that traps the transducer in place. If there is not a threaded
collar, there may be a SS clevis pin that goes through the through hull
fitting and the transducer body to keep it in place.

If that is a plastic or nylon through hull fitting, the warning about
hand tightening refers to the nut that holds the through hull fitting in
the boat and it may also be referring to a collar that keep the
transducer in place. Those are plastic or nylon, if you go after them
with a pipe wrench or water pump pliers you will run the risk of
breaking them from over tightening. If it breaks and the through hull
fitting or transducer pops out, you will have a 2" hole in your hull
below the waterline.

I would remove the retaining collar or pull the clevis pin (keeping a
hand on the transducer) and then try to raise it up a little. It will
normally be keyed to the through hull for fore and aft alignment and
cannot be rotated in the through hull until it has been raised up a
little.

If it seems to want to come out, stifle the terror in your heart, get
your rag ready, slide the transducer up, and plug the hole with the rag.
A quart or two of water down there won't hurt anything and can be
refreshing on a hot day.

If you look through the stuff that came with the boat, you may find a
plastic plug that looks like the transducer body. It may be for the
speed impeller so make sure it fits before you count on it being used to
plug the depth transducer fitting.

If you have to leave the rag in place for a day or two, drape another
rag over it down around the through hull fitting, and tie it in place
snugly with piece of line or use a radiator clamp gently so as to not
damage the threads or through hull fitting.

Use silicone O-ring lube (Lowes or Home Depot, where the home water
filters are usually) on the O-rings and outside of the transducer body
and it will always be easy to remove.

Jack

Thanks. DMI says it comes out through the bottom.


On Wed, 12 Jul 2006 18:32:21 -0700, Peter Bennett
wrote:

On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 00:33:57 GMT, frank1492
wrote:

I noticed that the site I just mentioned sells O-rings for the
Datamarine transducer. I think that is what I may have seen
protruding out around the base of the transducer housing.
Couldn't tell what it was at first, but certainly if that's what it
was, bilge water could get in. Am I on to something? And
what would cause an O-ring to pop out of place or stretch
like that?

If you undo the "wing nut" you mentioned, you should be able to pull
the transducer out of the through-hull housing (have a rag handy to
stuff in the resulting hole!)(If you do this, you will get a large
water fountain - just stuff the rag into the through-hull fitting -
the water pressure will be very low.)

The "O-rings" you mentioned will go on the transducer, to prevent
water from entering between the transducer and housing. The rubber
thing you see against the hull is just a rubber washer (or more likely
excess sealant).