Long thread toggle switches
 

I need to mount an ON-OFF-MOM bilge switch on my power panel.

The Rule has a "kit", which requires sawing a rectangular hole in the
panel to clear the switch body.

When I was a pup, I seem to recall toggle switches which had an
extra long threaded barrel for thicker panels.

Know of a source? Bet Larry or Bruce does..:)

Thanks,
Norm B

engsol wrote in
:

When I was a pup, I seem to recall toggle switches which had an
extra long threaded barrel for thicker panels.



How thick? The problem with toggle switches like this is inside that
barrel the other end of the toggle that moves the contacts gets longer as
the barrel gets longer, so it's hard to get one really long....which is why
marine switches with really long barrels are push-pull switches.

Take a look through the 478 power toggle switches at Grainger:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/sea...ch_type=keywor
d&QueryString=Toggle

Sorry about the wordwrap...just glue it on the end.

--
Larry

You know you've had a rough night when you wake up and you're outlined in
chalk.

Larry W4CSC wrote:

snip

Sorry about the wordwrap...just glue it on the end.


Set up a bookmark to http://tinyurl.com/

that will instantly convert the url of the page you are looking at to a
manageable length. For example,

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/sea... tring=Toggle

becomes http://tinyurl.com/dsehc.

Jack

--
Jack Erbes in Ellsworth, Maine, USA - jackerbes at adelphia dot net
(also receiving email at jacker at midmaine.com)

On Fri, 01 Jul 2005 07:44:29 -0400, Larry W4CSC wrote:

engsol wrote in
:

When I was a pup, I seem to recall toggle switches which had an
extra long threaded barrel for thicker panels.



How thick? The problem with toggle switches like this is inside that
barrel the other end of the toggle that moves the contacts gets longer as
the barrel gets longer, so it's hard to get one really long....which is why
marine switches with really long barrels are push-pull switches.


Larry,
Most boat panels I've seen are either 1/8" aluminum, in which case "normal"
toggle switches work fine, or they are like mine, made of 3/8" - 1/2" thick teak ply.

The problem with push-pull is that (to my knowledge) they don't come in a
on-off-mom style.
Norm B

engsol wrote in
:

Larry,
Most boat panels I've seen are either 1/8" aluminum, in which case
"normal" toggle switches work fine, or they are like mine, made of
3/8" - 1/2" thick teak ply.



Stop by a Graingers counter, or similar store selling a wide variety of
electrical switches and look at them. I'm sure a regular toggle switch,
with the 1/2" hole will take a 1/2" panel thickness. Now, you need the
DPDT on-off-momentary part....

--
Larry

You know you've had a rough night when you wake up and you're outlined in
chalk.

I've had to cut a hole in a wood panel before, then put a piece of
aluminum or plastic over or in it to mount a regular switch to. I've
also rounted out the hole behind the panel to allow for a regular
switch depth.

"Keith" wrote in
oups.com:

I've had to cut a hole in a wood panel before, then put a piece of
aluminum or plastic over or in it to mount a regular switch to. I've
also rounted out the hole behind the panel to allow for a regular
switch depth.



I like the idea of a switch panel that comes off from the outside (larger
than the hole screwed into the panel). It makes it much easier to service
as all you do is pull the screws and lay the panel over on its wiring.
With all the switches to the panel, you can also get more switches in a
smaller area than you can drilling one hole in wood at a time.

Please use RING terminals on all screws in electrical systems, not spade
lugs or push-on terminals. No ring terminal ever came off in a gale....

--
Larry

You know you've had a rough night when you wake up and you're outlined in
chalk.

On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 09:06:19 -0400, Larry W4CSC wrote:

"Keith" wrote in
roups.com:

I've had to cut a hole in a wood panel before, then put a piece of
aluminum or plastic over or in it to mount a regular switch to. I've
also rounted out the hole behind the panel to allow for a regular
switch depth.



I like the idea of a switch panel that comes off from the outside (larger
than the hole screwed into the panel). It makes it much easier to service
as all you do is pull the screws and lay the panel over on its wiring.
With all the switches to the panel, you can also get more switches in a
smaller area than you can drilling one hole in wood at a time.

Please use RING terminals on all screws in electrical systems, not spade
lugs or push-on terminals. No ring terminal ever came off in a gale....

That's exactly why I made my panel so it'd hinge down. I have access to the
rear of the Blue Seas AC and DC switch panels, battery switch, disconnect, etc
as well as the "sub-panel" behind which supports the terminal strips large and small.
So far it's paid off big time in rewiring my boat. Adding circuits is a piece of cake.

Amen re ring terminals. One thing I noticed while tearing out old wiring is that many
of the screw connections lacked lock washers.
The only push-on I have is the cigarette lighter 'outlet' on the panel, and I'm not
super happy with it. I'll keep an eye open for one with screws.
Norm B

engsol wrote:
I need to mount an ON-OFF-MOM bilge switch on my power panel.

The Rule has a "kit", which requires sawing a rectangular hole in the
panel to clear the switch body.

When I was a pup, I seem to recall toggle switches which had an
extra long threaded barrel for thicker panels.

Know of a source? Bet Larry or Bruce does..:)

Thanks,
Norm B

If it's only one switch, you could use a brace and bit or a router to cut a
round recess
first, then chisel out the recess to suit the length of the thread.