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How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
I have been buying #00, #0 and #1 battery cable, (the tinned marine grade
with the fine strands) and the proper lugs. However, my crimping tool will only do up to #4 gage. I've tried soldering with my 150 watt soldering iron and as others have worned, the solder wicks up into the strands, making it to stiff. These stiff ends are hard on the electrical terminals that they attach to. I want to redo about a dozen lugs that I have concerns about. How do all the rest of you crimp or swedge these lugs?? I've seen a tool that is used by the guys building DIY electric cars and off grid elect systems. These were just a steel saddle that the lug/cable end rest in and a crimping die is driven down over the open side. They were using a heavy hammer for the force and that give me some concern (lack of control, etc.). I've seen some professional tools in the electrical supply catalogs but they are pretty expensive for doing a dozen cable ends. (several hundred dollars). I'm thinking there should be some kinda die similar to that used for NicoPress swedge rigging sleeves. (come to think of it, I have one and I may try a test and see if it would work) Or perhaps the marine suppliers?? But, then I already have purchased, mail order, all of my cable. Not sure they would do it for me.. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
I have made up a bunch of them. A big lug swage looks like a small
seesaw with teeth on the bottom. Cost about $20 and works up to 4/0. You place the lug in the propper notch, position the wire in the lug and give the device a healthy whack with a BIG hammer. Slip a piece of heat shrink tube over the lug and toast it with a heat gun. Steve wrote: I have been buying #00, #0 and #1 battery cable, (the tinned marine grade with the fine strands) and the proper lugs. However, my crimping tool will only do up to #4 gage. I've tried soldering with my 150 watt soldering iron and as others have worned, the solder wicks up into the strands, making it to stiff. These stiff ends are hard on the electrical terminals that they attach to. I want to redo about a dozen lugs that I have concerns about. How do all the rest of you crimp or swedge these lugs?? I've seen a tool that is used by the guys building DIY electric cars and off grid elect systems. These were just a steel saddle that the lug/cable end rest in and a crimping die is driven down over the open side. They were using a heavy hammer for the force and that give me some concern (lack of control, etc.). I've seen some professional tools in the electrical supply catalogs but they are pretty expensive for doing a dozen cable ends. (several hundred dollars). I'm thinking there should be some kinda die similar to that used for NicoPress swedge rigging sleeves. (come to think of it, I have one and I may try a test and see if it would work) Or perhaps the marine suppliers?? But, then I already have purchased, mail order, all of my cable. Not sure they would do it for me.. Steve s/v Good Intentions -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
Steve ) wrote:
: I have been buying #00, #0 and #1 battery cable, (the tinned marine grade : with the fine strands) and the proper lugs. However, my crimping tool will : only do up to #4 gage. : I've tried soldering with my 150 watt soldering iron and as others have : worned, the solder wicks up into the strands, making it to stiff. : These stiff ends are hard on the electrical terminals that they attach to. : I want to redo about a dozen lugs that I have concerns about. : How do all the rest of you crimp or swedge these lugs?? : I've seen a tool that is used by the guys building DIY electric cars and off : grid elect systems. These were just a steel saddle that the lug/cable end : rest in and a crimping die is driven down over the open side. They were : using a heavy hammer for the force and that give me some concern (lack of : control, etc.). : I've seen some professional tools in the electrical supply catalogs but they : are pretty expensive for doing a dozen cable ends. (several hundred : dollars). : I'm thinking there should be some kinda die similar to that used for : NicoPress swedge rigging sleeves. (come to think of it, I have one and I may : try a test and see if it would work) : Or perhaps the marine suppliers?? But, then I already have purchased, mail : order, all of my cable. Not sure they would do it for me.. Perhaps you can find an electrical contractor that has the swage and would be willing to do your cable ends for a "nominal" fee? -- Jim Hollenback my opinion. |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
You can also use a clamp, vise, or other to crimp down that hammer crimper.
Another idea I've heard but haven't tried is to use the tool that holds copper tubing to flare it. -- Keith __ I love to give homemade gifts, ... umm, which one of the kids would you like? "Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message news:gOzjc.476$Lm3.246@lakeread04... I have made up a bunch of them. A big lug swage looks like a small seesaw with teeth on the bottom. Cost about $20 and works up to 4/0. You place the lug in the propper notch, position the wire in the lug and give the device a healthy whack with a BIG hammer. Slip a piece of heat shrink tube over the lug and toast it with a heat gun. Steve wrote: I have been buying #00, #0 and #1 battery cable, (the tinned marine grade with the fine strands) and the proper lugs. However, my crimping tool will only do up to #4 gage. I've tried soldering with my 150 watt soldering iron and as others have worned, the solder wicks up into the strands, making it to stiff. These stiff ends are hard on the electrical terminals that they attach to. I want to redo about a dozen lugs that I have concerns about. How do all the rest of you crimp or swedge these lugs?? I've seen a tool that is used by the guys building DIY electric cars and off grid elect systems. These were just a steel saddle that the lug/cable end rest in and a crimping die is driven down over the open side. They were using a heavy hammer for the force and that give me some concern (lack of control, etc.). I've seen some professional tools in the electrical supply catalogs but they are pretty expensive for doing a dozen cable ends. (several hundred dollars). I'm thinking there should be some kinda die similar to that used for NicoPress swedge rigging sleeves. (come to think of it, I have one and I may try a test and see if it would work) Or perhaps the marine suppliers?? But, then I already have purchased, order, all of my cable. Not sure they would do it for me.. Steve s/v Good Intentions -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
If this "seesaw" is the same thing I used at my local chandlery you can get
more control by putting it in a vise and squeezing. It crimped everything together but didn't look that neat. I've soldered a bunch of these using a propane torch and I think the finished product is OK if the cable isn't moving around. If there is a possibility of movement maybe a clamp of some kind could restrict this? In addition to electrical contractors you might find a welding equipment supplier that would be able to help. "Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message news:gOzjc.476$Lm3.246@lakeread04... I have made up a bunch of them. A big lug swage looks like a small seesaw with teeth on the bottom. Cost about $20 and works up to 4/0. You place the lug in the propper notch, position the wire in the lug and give the device a healthy whack with a BIG hammer. Slip a piece of heat shrink tube over the lug and toast it with a heat gun. Steve wrote: I have been buying #00, #0 and #1 battery cable, (the tinned marine grade with the fine strands) and the proper lugs. However, my crimping tool will only do up to #4 gage. I've tried soldering with my 150 watt soldering iron and as others have worned, the solder wicks up into the strands, making it to stiff. These stiff ends are hard on the electrical terminals that they attach to. I want to redo about a dozen lugs that I have concerns about. How do all the rest of you crimp or swedge these lugs?? I've seen a tool that is used by the guys building DIY electric cars and off grid elect systems. These were just a steel saddle that the lug/cable end rest in and a crimping die is driven down over the open side. They were using a heavy hammer for the force and that give me some concern (lack of control, etc.). I've seen some professional tools in the electrical supply catalogs but they are pretty expensive for doing a dozen cable ends. (several hundred dollars). I'm thinking there should be some kinda die similar to that used for NicoPress swedge rigging sleeves. (come to think of it, I have one and I may try a test and see if it would work) Or perhaps the marine suppliers?? But, then I already have purchased, order, all of my cable. Not sure they would do it for me.. Steve s/v Good Intentions -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
"Gordon Wedman" wrote in message news:QSAjc.24944$i61.17763@clgrps13... If there is a possibility of movement maybe a clamp of some kind could restrict this? In addition to electrical contractors you might find a welding equipment The movement, if any is from thermal expansion. Things get a little warm when the charger is cranking out 100 plus amps. However, I think my problem is a general lack of flex if there isn't exact alignment to the terminal stud. I'm presently replacing on DC terminal stud and insulator block on the back of my Inverter/Charger.. This unit is in a locker, on a slide out shelf. I must first attach the battery cables to the back of the unit, secure them to the shelf and slide the unit into place. Appearently there is some slight movement of the DC cables while I am sliding it into place because twice now I have ended up with a high resistance connection on the negative terminal. This over heated the cables, terminal stud and melted the insulator block. I just machined a new one from insulator material and increased the stud from 5/16" plated steel to 3/8" bronze. If this problem presists, I will go to insulated buss bars to bring the connection out from behind the unit. Then the final connections can be made after the unit is in place. This is what I have done in and around my battery disconnects, Hi amp circuit breakers and heavy connection terminals. Works well and looks great. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
Steve wrote:
I have been buying #00, #0 and #1 battery cable, (the tinned marine grade with the fine strands) and the proper lugs. However, my crimping tool will only do up to #4 gage. I've tried soldering with my 150 watt soldering iron and as others have worned, the solder wicks up into the strands, making it to stiff. These stiff ends are hard on the electrical terminals that they attach to. I want to redo about a dozen lugs that I have concerns about. How do all the rest of you crimp or swedge these lugs?? I've seen a tool that is used by the guys building DIY electric cars and off grid elect systems. These were just a steel saddle that the lug/cable end rest in and a crimping die is driven down over the open side. They were using a heavy hammer for the force and that give me some concern (lack of control, etc.). I've seen some professional tools in the electrical supply catalogs but they are pretty expensive for doing a dozen cable ends. (several hundred dollars). I'm thinking there should be some kinda die similar to that used for NicoPress swedge rigging sleeves. (come to think of it, I have one and I may try a test and see if it would work) Or perhaps the marine suppliers?? But, then I already have purchased, mail order, all of my cable. Not sure they would do it for me.. Steve s/v Good Intentions I've used the crimping dies that are used for crimping hydralic hose ends on hoses. A #4 hose die crimps them tight and neat. Shrink tube finishes the job. Local hydralic hose shop may be willing to do it for you. -- ________m___~Ώτ____m______________________________ _____ |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
What size alternator? I had to run 350MCM locomotive cable to my
Prosine 2000. (10' run total) Talk about wrasslin' an anaconda in the bilge. I didn't do those connectors though. I cut the cable to length and took it all down to the Norfork Southern maintenance barn and got them to swage it for me. It is really amazing the free help you can get when you show them a picture of a half finished 45' boat in the backyard. :-) Steve wrote: The movement, if any is from thermal expansion. Things get a little warm when the charger is cranking out 100 plus amps. However, I think my problem is a general lack of flex if there isn't exact alignment to the terminal stud. I'm presently replacing on DC terminal stud and insulator block on the back of my Inverter/Charger.. This unit is in a locker, on a slide out shelf. I must first attach the battery cables to the back of the unit, secure them to the shelf and slide the unit into place. Appearently there is some slight movement of the DC cables while I am sliding it into place because twice now I have ended up with a high resistance connection on the negative terminal. This over heated the cables, terminal stud and melted the insulator block. I just machined a new one from insulator material and increased the stud from 5/16" plated steel to 3/8" bronze. If this problem presists, I will go to insulated buss bars to bring the connection out from behind the unit. Then the final connections can be made after the unit is in place. This is what I have done in and around my battery disconnects, Hi amp circuit breakers and heavy connection terminals. Works well and looks great. Steve s/v Good Intentions -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
I use the professional tool when at the shop, however, years ago I wired a
lot of DC battery banks for a college physics department. The technique I used then was to clamp the very tip of lug in a vise, with the cup oriented up. Then I applied heat from a propane torch to the cup and puddled a lot of solder in the cup and inserted the wire down into the cup. I had C clamps and vise grips with curved jaws set up as a guide to hold the wire as the solder cooled. Hard to describe, but the tinned wire was threaded down through the C clamps and the vise grips jaws so that all I had to do was slip it in the cup puddle when I had enough molten solder in the cup. Heat shrink tubing over the finished connection. Doug K7ABX "Steve" wrote in message ... I have been buying #00, #0 and #1 battery cable, (the tinned marine grade with the fine strands) and the proper lugs. However, my crimping tool will only do up to #4 gage. I've tried soldering with my 150 watt soldering iron and as others have worned, the solder wicks up into the strands, making it to stiff. These stiff ends are hard on the electrical terminals that they attach to. I want to redo about a dozen lugs that I have concerns about. How do all the rest of you crimp or swedge these lugs?? I've seen a tool that is used by the guys building DIY electric cars and off grid elect systems. These were just a steel saddle that the lug/cable end rest in and a crimping die is driven down over the open side. They were using a heavy hammer for the force and that give me some concern (lack of control, etc.). I've seen some professional tools in the electrical supply catalogs but they are pretty expensive for doing a dozen cable ends. (several hundred dollars). I'm thinking there should be some kinda die similar to that used for NicoPress swedge rigging sleeves. (come to think of it, I have one and I may try a test and see if it would work) Or perhaps the marine suppliers?? But, then I already have purchased, mail order, all of my cable. Not sure they would do it for me.. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message news:MYBjc.638$Lm3.598@lakeread04... What size alternator? I had to run 350MCM locomotive cable to my Prosine 2000. (10' run total) Talk about wrasslin' an anaconda in the I only have a 100 amp alternator but haven't completed the installation. I'm presently still using the 'silly' 30 amp OEM altenator but I haven't been using it to charge the main battery bank. I tried using single #2/0 cable to connect the 2000 watt inverter/charger to the main battery buss but it was too stiff and on the recommendation of the OEM (Exide) I ended up using #1 gage cable in pairs to the pos./neg. to gain flexibility. My largest load on the main battery bank, aside from the inverter, is the anchor windlass. This circuit breaker is connected to the battery disconnect with a buss bar and #2/0 cable for the rest of the run to the windlass controller. Here again I am a bit concerned with the stress this heavy cable may be exerting on the breaker terminal. Here again, I notice that the OEMs of the breaker and the windlass use only 5/16" terminal bolt while recommending cable as heavy as #2/0. (what would the circular mils be of a wimpy 5/16" bolt after you dedect the threads??. I believe that is the reason for my high resistance connection, more-so than a loose connection.) Steve s/v Good Intentions |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
I wouldn't solder them. Asking for trouble there. If you should have a
loose bolt connection on the lug all the solder could melt and open the connection letting the cable fall onto something you don't want it to come in contact with. Second, If the solder wicks up the cable and makes it stiff you could break a battery post by the leverage the stiff cable provides. If not breaking it off it could break the seal around the post and it will leak acid and constantly corrode your connection. Sometimes it doesn't take much to break the seal. I have one of those "hit it with a hammer" type crimpers but they are only a last resort. I used to carry it on the boat in case I had to make an emergency repair. They only make a dent in one small part of the lug and leave the sides loose. Even if you do multiple spots you still can't get a good connection. Otherwise I always took the cables to a cable supplier to get them crimped properly. Most times they will rent out a crimper if you need to do it on the boat. Boat owners and West marine have crimpers and are usually glad to crimp lugs on for you. I have use West marines nico press crimper and it does a very nice job on cable lugs. Regards Gary On Tue, 27 Apr 2004 13:00:00 -0700, "Steve" wrote: I have been buying #00, #0 and #1 battery cable, (the tinned marine grade with the fine strands) and the proper lugs. However, my crimping tool will only do up to #4 gage. I've tried soldering with my 150 watt soldering iron and as others have worned, the solder wicks up into the strands, making it to stiff. These stiff ends are hard on the electrical terminals that they attach to. I want to redo about a dozen lugs that I have concerns about. How do all the rest of you crimp or swedge these lugs?? I've seen a tool that is used by the guys building DIY electric cars and off grid elect systems. These were just a steel saddle that the lug/cable end rest in and a crimping die is driven down over the open side. They were using a heavy hammer for the force and that give me some concern (lack of control, etc.). I've seen some professional tools in the electrical supply catalogs but they are pretty expensive for doing a dozen cable ends. (several hundred dollars). I'm thinking there should be some kinda die similar to that used for NicoPress swedge rigging sleeves. (come to think of it, I have one and I may try a test and see if it would work) Or perhaps the marine suppliers?? But, then I already have purchased, mail order, all of my cable. Not sure they would do it for me.. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
I have to agree with Gary. A proper crimp causes a gas-tight connection.
Over time, solid-state diffusion sets in, making the connection a Zen-like "one with everything" affair. The problem with solder is that it wicks. "Who cares?" you may ask. The answer is that the junction where "tinned" and "untinned" meets, (often under the insulation), is where the cable will break under vibration...always...unless some really good strain relief is in place. If it *is* under the insulation, you'll never see it until the sparks fly. Molten solder will drip into, or on to, the things you can least afford to have shorted. Plus, soldering is basically a chemical process ....if not done at the proper temps, it's not a good connection, i.e., a cold-solder joint. Solder little wires, crimp big ones. Norm B On Wed, 28 Apr 2004 00:35:26 GMT, Gary Schafer wrote: I wouldn't solder them. Asking for trouble there. If you should have a loose bolt connection on the lug all the solder could melt and open the connection letting the cable fall onto something you don't want it to come in contact with. Second, If the solder wicks up the cable and makes it stiff you could break a battery post by the leverage the stiff cable provides. If not breaking it off it could break the seal around the post and it will leak acid and constantly corrode your connection. Sometimes it doesn't take much to break the seal. I have one of those "hit it with a hammer" type crimpers but they are only a last resort. I used to carry it on the boat in case I had to make an emergency repair. They only make a dent in one small part of the lug and leave the sides loose. Even if you do multiple spots you still can't get a good connection. Otherwise I always took the cables to a cable supplier to get them crimped properly. Most times they will rent out a crimper if you need to do it on the boat. Boat owners and West marine have crimpers and are usually glad to crimp lugs on for you. I have use West marines nico press crimper and it does a very nice job on cable lugs. Regards Gary On Tue, 27 Apr 2004 13:00:00 -0700, "Steve" wrote: I have been buying #00, #0 and #1 battery cable, (the tinned marine grade with the fine strands) and the proper lugs. However, my crimping tool will only do up to #4 gage. I've tried soldering with my 150 watt soldering iron and as others have worned, the solder wicks up into the strands, making it to stiff. These stiff ends are hard on the electrical terminals that they attach to. I want to redo about a dozen lugs that I have concerns about. How do all the rest of you crimp or swedge these lugs?? I've seen a tool that is used by the guys building DIY electric cars and off grid elect systems. These were just a steel saddle that the lug/cable end rest in and a crimping die is driven down over the open side. They were using a heavy hammer for the force and that give me some concern (lack of control, etc.). I've seen some professional tools in the electrical supply catalogs but they are pretty expensive for doing a dozen cable ends. (several hundred dollars). I'm thinking there should be some kinda die similar to that used for NicoPress swedge rigging sleeves. (come to think of it, I have one and I may try a test and see if it would work) Or perhaps the marine suppliers?? But, then I already have purchased, mail order, all of my cable. Not sure they would do it for me.. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
Gary Schafer wrote in
: I wouldn't solder them. Asking for trouble there. If you should have a loose bolt connection on the lug all the solder could melt and open the connection letting the cable fall onto something you don't want it to come in contact with. Man, what the hell are you sailing, a diesel submarine? What kinda load does your boat have on the poor little batteries, one of those guys trying to run air conditioners off a 4KW inverter? Lionheart uses crimp THEN solder connections. Crimp to make them PHYSICALLY strong, then soldered to make them ELECTRICALLY strong and corrosion-free. Of course, the electrical length of battery cables, at least, is the same as their physical length...(c; Larry W4CSC Must be some bigassed house batteries..... |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
On Wed, 28 Apr 2004 13:11:45 -0000, Larry W4CSC
wrote: Gary Schafer wrote in : I wouldn't solder them. Asking for trouble there. If you should have a loose bolt connection on the lug all the solder could melt and open the connection letting the cable fall onto something you don't want it to come in contact with. Man, what the hell are you sailing, a diesel submarine? What kinda load does your boat have on the poor little batteries, one of those guys trying to run air conditioners off a 4KW inverter? Lionheart uses crimp THEN solder connections. Crimp to make them PHYSICALLY strong, then soldered to make them ELECTRICALLY strong and corrosion-free. Of course, the electrical length of battery cables, at least, is the same as their physical length...(c; Larry W4CSC Must be some bigassed house batteries..... Yup, not a toy boat. You sure about the speed of them electrons? Regards Gary |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
I seem to recall reading years ago that military standards for electronics
required all connections to be crimped AND soldered. Seems it was once considered the best approach. "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... Gary Schafer wrote in : I wouldn't solder them. Asking for trouble there. If you should have a loose bolt connection on the lug all the solder could melt and open the connection letting the cable fall onto something you don't want it to come in contact with. Man, what the hell are you sailing, a diesel submarine? What kinda load does your boat have on the poor little batteries, one of those guys trying to run air conditioners off a 4KW inverter? Lionheart uses crimp THEN solder connections. Crimp to make them PHYSICALLY strong, then soldered to make them ELECTRICALLY strong and corrosion-free. Of course, the electrical length of battery cables, at least, is the same as their physical length...(c; Larry W4CSC Must be some bigassed house batteries..... |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
Here again, I notice that the OEMs
of the breaker and the windlass use only 5/16" terminal bolt while recommending cable as heavy as #2/0. (what would the circular mils be of a wimpy 5/16" bolt after you deduct the threads??. I believe that is the reason for my high resistance connection, more-so than a loose connection.) I wondered about this as well since my Lofrans windlass seems to have rather small studs on the motor. Upon thinking about it I decided that a 1 inch long stud that is 5/16 copper is not going to have much resistance and therefore is not going to generate any significant heat even if a couple of hundred amps go through it. The actual connection between the crimp connector and the stud is the more likely source of high resistance and subsequent heat. A clean and tight metal to metal connection should carry the current. "Steve" wrote in message ... "Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message news:MYBjc.638$Lm3.598@lakeread04... What size alternator? I had to run 350MCM locomotive cable to my Prosine 2000. (10' run total) Talk about wrasslin' an anaconda in the I only have a 100 amp alternator but haven't completed the installation. I'm presently still using the 'silly' 30 amp OEM altenator but I haven't been using it to charge the main battery bank. I tried using single #2/0 cable to connect the 2000 watt inverter/charger to the main battery buss but it was too stiff and on the recommendation of the OEM (Exide) I ended up using #1 gage cable in pairs to the pos./neg. to gain flexibility. My largest load on the main battery bank, aside from the inverter, is the anchor windlass. This circuit breaker is connected to the battery disconnect with a buss bar and #2/0 cable for the rest of the run to the windlass controller. Here again I am a bit concerned with the stress this heavy cable may be exerting on the breaker terminal. Here again, I notice that the OEMs of the breaker and the windlass use only 5/16" terminal bolt while recommending cable as heavy as #2/0. (what would the circular mils be of a wimpy 5/16" bolt after you dedect the threads??. I believe that is the reason for my high resistance connection, more-so than a loose connection.) Steve s/v Good Intentions |
How to Swedge Battery Cable Lugs??
Steve wrote:
I have been buying #00, #0 and #1 battery cable, (the tinned marine grade with the fine strands) and the proper lugs. However, my crimping tool will only do up to #4 gage. I've tried soldering with my 150 watt soldering iron and as others have worned, the solder wicks up into the strands, making it to stiff. These stiff ends are hard on the electrical terminals that they attach to. I want to redo about a dozen lugs that I have concerns about. How do all the rest of you crimp or swedge these lugs?? I've seen a tool that is used by the guys building DIY electric cars and off grid elect systems. These were just a steel saddle that the lug/cable end rest in and a crimping die is driven down over the open side. They were using a heavy hammer for the force and that give me some concern (lack of control, etc.). I've seen some professional tools in the electrical supply catalogs but they are pretty expensive for doing a dozen cable ends. (several hundred dollars). I'm thinking there should be some kinda die similar to that used for NicoPress swedge rigging sleeves. (come to think of it, I have one and I may try a test and see if it would work) Or perhaps the marine suppliers?? But, then I already have purchased, mail order, all of my cable. Not sure they would do it for me.. Steve s/v Good Intentions Don't you just love it when stuff is made to be multi useage? I would buy bolt cutters and then grind notches to suit nicopress, cable crimps, and other heavy terminals on board, and still leave some tooth for cutting those pesky post dismasting shrouds and other thick wires. With a little more grinding, I might end up with a small axe, and a hammer of sorts. With care, I might also get a useable bone cutter for butchering them damned seals and dolphins and amputating limbs wounded by pirates. A little fancy rope work, and possibly even a bellows pump useable in the bilge, or for puffing up the fire under the old steam boiler / teakettle / fog horn whistle. I also need a torque wrench / oil filter removal tool, ice chipper / crusher, and a dog neuterer. Oh, and a lunch hook for the dinghy, and with the addition of 3 clam cleats, a come-along for rope and an emergency tiller extension / spare jack handle / prop shaft immobiliser. All doable, I bet. I'd hope not to change the tool so much that it becomes unuseable for it's most common use of trying to scare off the mosquitoes and quieting those obstreperous muskillenge. I know it's probably way too small a calibre for the larger ones, but It'll scare off the stupider ones. Any other good ideas for multi use tool modifications? I especially like the garden sprayer / poop tank purge air pump / flame thrower, a legal fire arm never noticed by USCG inquisitors, especially with the breadfruit growing on the poop deck. You can get screw clamp battery terminals in several different styles. All toatally non-marine, of course, so of no obvious use on a boat. I mean automotive stuff never has to deal with wet, salty vibration, right? Terry K |
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