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SSB reflected power?
Well, now that my SSB is up and running, I have one more minor problem ( I
think). Whenever I key up the mike to talk, some of the electronics go nuts, like the Link 20 (near the grounding foil), the VHF goes blank and one of those "touch" 110 lamps goes on and off. The radio tech that got me up and running said these were symptoms of reflected power. I'm using a 23' digital antenna, and seem to be transmitting well. Is there anything I can do about this, or should I even be worried about it? |
SSB reflected power?
Yes. I'd start by putting a few clamp-around ferrites on the coax at both
the antenna and radio and on the power line where it enters the radio. If that don't work .... Good luck. "Keith" wrote ..... Is there anything I can do about this, or should I even be worried about it? |
SSB reflected power?
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 06:00:09 -0600, Keith wrote:
Well, now that my SSB is up and running, I have one more minor problem ( I think). Whenever I key up the mike to talk, some of the electronics go nuts, like the Link 20 (near the grounding foil), the VHF goes blank and one of those "touch" 110 lamps goes on and off. The radio tech that got me up and running said these were symptoms of reflected power. I'm using a 23' digital antenna, and seem to be transmitting well. Is there anything I can do about this, or should I even be worried about it? That's typically caused by reflected power. You can check with an SWR meter. If it's high, you'll need an antenna tuner connected to the output of your transceiver. -- Larry email is rapp at lmr dot com |
SSB reflected power?
In article ,
"Keith" wrote: The radio tech that got me up and running said these were symptoms of reflected power. I'm using a 23' digital antenna, and seem to be transmitting well. Is there anything I can do about this, or should I even be worried about it? And you let this "tech" walk off the boat before he fixed the radio installation, why???? What is a 23' "Digital" antenna????? What you have is a very high impedance "Ground System" and maybe a nonresonant antenna. First off, 23 feet of antenna is marginal for any frequency below 12 Mhz. Does you HF installation include an Antenna Tuner? If so, is it tuning the antenna, and how do you know this? Again, why did you let the guy leave before he fixed the antenna problems? How much power is the transmitter puting out? Does the Mic burn your hand when your transmitting? Gives us more information, and maybe we can help you out. Bruce in alaska -- add a 2 before @ |
SSB reflected power?
As I was told by a local radio pro, "Welcome to the world of HF".
I installed ferrites and line isolators and still all kinds of weird **** happens when I broadcast. Unless you want to get into Faraday Cages etc, it is just something you learn to live with. -- Dennis Gibbons dkgibbons at optonline dot net "Keith" wrote in message ... Well, now that my SSB is up and running, I have one more minor problem ( I think). Whenever I key up the mike to talk, some of the electronics go nuts, like the Link 20 (near the grounding foil), the VHF goes blank and one of those "touch" 110 lamps goes on and off. The radio tech that got me up and running said these were symptoms of reflected power. I'm using a 23' digital antenna, and seem to be transmitting well. Is there anything I can do about this, or should I even be worried about it? |
SSB reflected power?
What is a 23' "Digital" antenna?????
www.digitalantenna.com The VHF digitals got great reviews in PC a few years ago. I suspect the SSB antennas are high quality as well. Doug, k3qt s/v Callista |
SSB reflected power?
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:40:46 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote: What is a 23' "Digital" antenna????? www.digitalantenna.com The VHF digitals got great reviews in PC a few years ago. I suspect the SSB antennas are high quality as well. Doug, k3qt s/v Callista Everybody tries to cash in on the word "digital" like it is some kind of magic. Kind of deceptive if you ask me. Even if it is only their name. I see on their web site that they have discovered some new laws of physics! A 24 foot HF antenna that has an swr of less than 2:1 over the entire 2-30 mhz range when used with a tuner. Isn't that amazing! Likewise with their VHF antenna they have discovered a new ground system that lowers the radiation angle of their 6 db antenna to make it more efficient than others. Just amazing! I wonder if it is digitally encoded to perform those miracles. Regards Gary |
SSB reflected power?
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 06:00:09 -0600, "Keith"
wrote: Well, now that my SSB is up and running, I have one more minor problem ( I think). Whenever I key up the mike to talk, some of the electronics go nuts, like the Link 20 (near the grounding foil), the VHF goes blank and one of those "touch" 110 lamps goes on and off. The radio tech that got me up and running said these were symptoms of reflected power. I'm using a 23' digital antenna, and seem to be transmitting well. Is there anything I can do about this, or should I even be worried about it? Kieth, It sounds more like symptoms of installer tech bull**** than anything else. I have to agree with Bruce, it sounds like you have a poor ground system. SWR does not cause RF to be all over the place. RF on the outside of your coax will cause some of your symptoms. RF on the outside of your coax is not caused by swr but is caused by a poor ground system. If you have an automatic antenna tuner and it is working properly there shouldn't be any high swr on the coax line to the radio. Did he check? Where is the tuner mounted and how long is the ground foil from the tuner to ground? Regards Gary |
SSB reflected power?
I dunno. Suggest that you consult the actual results of independent
tests. I don't remember anything about the SSB antenna, but I do seem to recall that their VHF performed very well. Doug, k3qt s/v Callista "Gary Schafer" wrote in message ... On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:40:46 -0500, "Doug Dotson" wrote: What is a 23' "Digital" antenna????? www.digitalantenna.com The VHF digitals got great reviews in PC a few years ago. I suspect the SSB antennas are high quality as well. Doug, k3qt s/v Callista Everybody tries to cash in on the word "digital" like it is some kind of magic. Kind of deceptive if you ask me. Even if it is only their name. I see on their web site that they have discovered some new laws of physics! A 24 foot HF antenna that has an swr of less than 2:1 over the entire 2-30 mhz range when used with a tuner. Isn't that amazing! Likewise with their VHF antenna they have discovered a new ground system that lowers the radiation angle of their 6 db antenna to make it more efficient than others. Just amazing! I wonder if it is digitally encoded to perform those miracles. Regards Gary |
SSB reflected power?
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 06:00:09 -0600, "Keith"
wrote: Well, now that my SSB is up and running, I have one more minor problem ( I think). Whenever I key up the mike to talk, some of the electronics go nuts, like the Link 20 (near the grounding foil), the VHF goes blank and one of those "touch" 110 lamps goes on and off. The radio tech that got me up and running said these were symptoms of reflected power. You need a new radio tech who WASN'T a CBer. These are symptoms of RADIATING RF ENERGY out a tuned antenna.....in an RF transparent, unshielded, plastic boat! The RF energy from the backstay or whatever you're tuning for an antenna, passes THROUGH everything on the boat and will wreak havoc with everything that is A) solid state electronics and B) unshielded, like marine electronics crap with bare wires marked NMEA + to ground in an unshielded plastic box, themselves. Damned digital circuitry goes CRAZY...BERSERK when a good, strong RF field just overruns the data stream, gets rectified by a zillion tiny transistor junctions into DC bias that screws everything. My ham station (1500W PEP) nearly blew the neighbor's big stereo speakers clean out of the cabinet when my RF induced serious signals into his speaker wires and fed it into the 800 watt power amplifiers. Hams know better than to buy touch lamps...... The VHF makes me think its antenna coaxial cable may have a broken shield connection or, worse yet, has a resonant ground connection to it. 1/4 of a wavelength back from your ground plate, and every odd multiple of 1/4 wavelength back from your ground plate is a HIGH VOLTAGE RF lobe caused by the ground wire acting like an antenna. If you're so lucky as to have just the right length, 1/4 wavelength from the groundplate where the RADIO is attached, the RF on the "ground" of the VHF radio will drive it nuts. RF is blasting away on the OUTSIDE of the VHF coax cable, every time the HF keys up. If the radio is near just the right 1/4 wave point from its ground plate (or the DC power wiring is near 1/4 wavelength to the HF frequency, the whole thing will be RF "hot" and may do anything. Try disconnecting any grounds (except battery - of course) you may have attached to it and see how it does. Pull on those PL-259 coax connectors to see if the shield braid is firmly attached to them, too. The link is easy to fix. Run FOIL SHIELDED, multiconductor cable between the Link and its big shunt and battery connections to keep the unshielded wires you probably have now from acting like a big HF antenna to receive the SSB transmitter and feed it to the Link's damned computer chips. EVERYTHING on the boat needs foil shielded signal/data wiring. Connect the foil shield to the ground or battery negative post on the Link. Leave the other end foil and drain wire, where it comes up to the battery connections, UNCONNECTED. This makes a Faraday Shield, named after Michael Faraday (discoverer of capacitance). This unconnected shield encasing the control wiring keeps the RF OUTSIDE the cable from coupling to the wires INSIDE the shield feeding the computer circuits. I'm using a 23' digital antenna, and seem to be transmitting well. Is there anything I can do about this, or should I even be worried about it? Digital antenna? It transmits DATA instead of RF??!....???????? What does this antenna look like and how far is it located from the scrambled electronics. Lionheart's AT-140 antenna tuner sits on top of the aft cabin right behind the cockpit-mounted mizzen mast. The insulated backstay's tension screwjack bolts to the fiberglass next to it and the tuner has a 8" stainless steel wire connecting to a hoseclamp around the jack. The whole cockpit is RF hot because it's a couple of feet from the main antenna.....(sigh). Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! Let's do what Europeans have been doing for centuries. DIVIDE UP THE SPOILS OF OUR CONQUEST! Gas will be $US0.50/US gallon again, STUPIDS! |
SSB reflected power?
Oh, now I get it! This is the cellular antenna company in FL that
makes the 3W linear amp for cellular phone! Awful lot of smoke 'n mirrors from these guys..... On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:40:46 -0500, "Doug Dotson" wrote: What is a 23' "Digital" antenna????? www.digitalantenna.com The VHF digitals got great reviews in PC a few years ago. I suspect the SSB antennas are high quality as well. Doug, k3qt s/v Callista Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! Let's do what Europeans have been doing for centuries. DIVIDE UP THE SPOILS OF OUR CONQUEST! Gas will be $US0.50/US gallon again, STUPIDS! |
SSB reflected power?
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 01:32:35 GMT, Gary Schafer
wrote: On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:40:46 -0500, "Doug Dotson" wrote: What is a 23' "Digital" antenna????? www.digitalantenna.com The VHF digitals got great reviews in PC a few years ago. I suspect the SSB antennas are high quality as well. Doug, k3qt s/v Callista Everybody tries to cash in on the word "digital" like it is some kind of magic. Kind of deceptive if you ask me. Even if it is only their name. I see on their web site that they have discovered some new laws of physics! A 24 foot HF antenna that has an swr of less than 2:1 over the entire 2-30 mhz range when used with a tuner. Isn't that amazing! Likewise with their VHF antenna they have discovered a new ground system that lowers the radiation angle of their 6 db antenna to make it more efficient than others. Just amazing! I wonder if it is digitally encoded to perform those miracles. I remember back when ICOM marketed an "automatic" tuner for long wires when I first retired and was working part-time at the ARRL as an Assistant Tech Editor. The ARRL lab purchased one and had it xrayed at a local orthopods office - turns out it was a really big dummy load that you could attach a piece of wire to. ;) Today, I imagine it would be called a digital tuner. ;) Later, Tom S. Woodstock, CT ---------- "The wildness and adventure that are in fishing still recommend it to me." Henry David Thoreau "Walden" (1854) |
SSB reflected power?
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 06:00:09 -0600, "Keith"
wrote: Well, now that my SSB is up and running, I have one more minor problem ( I think). Whenever I key up the mike to talk, some of the electronics go nuts, like the Link 20 (near the grounding foil), the VHF goes blank and one of those "touch" 110 lamps goes on and off. The radio tech that got me up and running said these were symptoms of reflected power. I'm using a 23' digital antenna, and seem to be transmitting well. Is there anything I can do about this, or should I even be worried about it? If it's a symptom of reflected power, then why didn't he check for it and correct it? Do you have an SWR meter and know how to use it? Does the radio have a automatic tuner? Do you have good grounds? These are all things the "tech" should have checked for you if he knew what he was doing. It does sound like you are radiating all over the neighborhood - there are some things you can do to cure the problem if you are comfortable with the technical side of things. Check the grounds on the radio and the antenna and make sure they are good (clean connections, good connections, etc.), make sure the antenna is placed as far away from the radio as practical, the antenna lead is not frayed or possibly broken internally (you can use an ohm meter to check for that - continuity), make sure the lead is long and routed properly, just those kind of common sense things. If that doesn't cure the problem, then it's ferrite beads, clamp on chokes, antenna trimming - stuff a tech SHOULD be able to do. Later, Tom S. Woodstock, CT ---------- "The wildness and adventure that are in fishing still recommend it to me." Henry David Thoreau "Walden" (1854) |
SSB reflected power?
OK, more details on the system. Icom 802 going to the AT-140 automatic
antenna tuner. Yes, the tuner is working, you can hear the relays clicking when you press the "tune" button or transmit. The antenna (made by the Digital company... I should have specified!) is on the flying bridge, as is the tuner. The tuner is about 3' from the antenna. The antenna is right behind and above the pilothouse. The base is maybe 10' from the wheel and electronics, etc. 2" copper foil runs from the radio to the antenna tuner, and splits off about midway and goes to the bilge, where it's connected to a dynaplate. I plan to add some more foil and connect the fuel tanks and run some radials down there as well. Lets see: the run from the radio to the antenna tuner is about 25', and the run from that one to the dynaplate is about 10'. No, we didn't check the SWR. I wanted to add more foil and some ferrite cores to see how this helps out. I wanted to do the things I can do rather than pay the tech all those $$$ for basically grunt work. I can call him back out whenever. No, my hand doesn't burn when transmitting! ;-) Yes, I believe the VHF cable needs replacing. It's old and probably cracked somewhere along the line. The Link 20 DOES have the sheilded cabling as Larry described, but the ground foil runs right alongside in the same chase. I don't think I connected the sheild to ground though... I'll fix that. -- Keith __ Money can't buy happiness, but it sure makes misery easier to live with. "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 06:00:09 -0600, "Keith" wrote: Well, now that my SSB is up and running, I have one more minor problem ( I think). Whenever I key up the mike to talk, some of the electronics go nuts, like the Link 20 (near the grounding foil), the VHF goes blank and one of those "touch" 110 lamps goes on and off. The radio tech that got me up and running said these were symptoms of reflected power. You need a new radio tech who WASN'T a CBer. These are symptoms of RADIATING RF ENERGY out a tuned antenna.....in an RF transparent, unshielded, plastic boat! The RF energy from the backstay or whatever you're tuning for an antenna, passes THROUGH everything on the boat and will wreak havoc with everything that is A) solid state electronics and B) unshielded, like marine electronics crap with bare wires marked NMEA + to ground in an unshielded plastic box, themselves. Damned digital circuitry goes CRAZY...BERSERK when a good, strong RF field just overruns the data stream, gets rectified by a zillion tiny transistor junctions into DC bias that screws everything. My ham station (1500W PEP) nearly blew the neighbor's big stereo speakers clean out of the cabinet when my RF induced serious signals into his speaker wires and fed it into the 800 watt power amplifiers. Hams know better than to buy touch lamps...... The VHF makes me think its antenna coaxial cable may have a broken shield connection or, worse yet, has a resonant ground connection to it. 1/4 of a wavelength back from your ground plate, and every odd multiple of 1/4 wavelength back from your ground plate is a HIGH VOLTAGE RF lobe caused by the ground wire acting like an antenna. If you're so lucky as to have just the right length, 1/4 wavelength from the groundplate where the RADIO is attached, the RF on the "ground" of the VHF radio will drive it nuts. RF is blasting away on the OUTSIDE of the VHF coax cable, every time the HF keys up. If the radio is near just the right 1/4 wave point from its ground plate (or the DC power wiring is near 1/4 wavelength to the HF frequency, the whole thing will be RF "hot" and may do anything. Try disconnecting any grounds (except battery - of course) you may have attached to it and see how it does. Pull on those PL-259 coax connectors to see if the shield braid is firmly attached to them, too. The link is easy to fix. Run FOIL SHIELDED, multiconductor cable between the Link and its big shunt and battery connections to keep the unshielded wires you probably have now from acting like a big HF antenna to receive the SSB transmitter and feed it to the Link's damned computer chips. EVERYTHING on the boat needs foil shielded signal/data wiring. Connect the foil shield to the ground or battery negative post on the Link. Leave the other end foil and drain wire, where it comes up to the battery connections, UNCONNECTED. This makes a Faraday Shield, named after Michael Faraday (discoverer of capacitance). This unconnected shield encasing the control wiring keeps the RF OUTSIDE the cable from coupling to the wires INSIDE the shield feeding the computer circuits. I'm using a 23' digital antenna, and seem to be transmitting well. Is there anything I can do about this, or should I even be worried about it? Digital antenna? It transmits DATA instead of RF??!....???????? What does this antenna look like and how far is it located from the scrambled electronics. Lionheart's AT-140 antenna tuner sits on top of the aft cabin right behind the cockpit-mounted mizzen mast. The insulated backstay's tension screwjack bolts to the fiberglass next to it and the tuner has a 8" stainless steel wire connecting to a hoseclamp around the jack. The whole cockpit is RF hot because it's a couple of feet from the main antenna.....(sigh). Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! Let's do what Europeans have been doing for centuries. DIVIDE UP THE SPOILS OF OUR CONQUEST! Gas will be $US0.50/US gallon again, STUPIDS! |
SSB reflected power?
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 08:05:10 -0600, "Keith"
wrote: OK, more details on the system. Icom 802 going to the AT-140 automatic antenna tuner. Yes, the tuner is working, you can hear the relays clicking when you press the "tune" button or transmit. The antenna (made by the Digital company... I should have specified!) is on the flying bridge, as is the tuner. The tuner is about 3' from the antenna. The antenna is right behind and above the pilothouse. The base is maybe 10' from the wheel and electronics, etc. I have an M802 on Lionheart with the AT-140 tuner. Its major problem is the tiny interconnection plugs that connect the tuner control circuit to the main chassis of the radio. It's a dumb, STUPID design.... I've had lots of trouble keeping the connection where it plugs into the radio. The pins in these tiny connectors was designed to connect a circuit board plug with a tiny cable going between circuit boards INSIDE radios.....NOT BIG CABLES OUTSIDE RADIOS. Idiots. I assume your LCD display on the 802 is reading TUNE at the top so the control cable must be making connections. The cable MUST BE SHIELDED, FOIL SHIELDED. This keeps the RF from screwing up the tuner's data interconnect. At the tuner end, have your technician eliminate half your tiny plug problems by opening the AT-140's top sealed cover (yeah, all those screws). Unsolder the pigtail wire going from the main circuit board inside the tuner, out through the watertight fitting to the stupid little unwatertight plug. Throw the pigtail overboard to keep it from contaminating anyone else's boat. Now, pull your control cable through the watertight fitting and dress the wires so you can solder them to the little solder rings on the main board of the AT-140. Tighten down the watertight fitting to seal the cable to the box. I used a dot of RTV on the inside around the cable to make sure. Re-close the AT-140 cover paying attention that the rubber ring seal is in place, properly. Easy on the screw torques so you don't crack the cheap plastic. Half your control cable problems are over. I may change out the other half on the radio to a proper connector after the warranty runs out. 2" copper foil runs from the radio to the antenna tuner, and splits off about midway and goes to the bilge, where it's connected to a dynaplate. I plan to add some more foil and connect the fuel tanks and run some radials down there as well. Lets see: the run from the radio to the antenna tuner is about 25', and the run from that one to the dynaplate is about 10'. You already have lots more grounds than I do on Lionheart. Looks nice to me. Any metal screen you can add to the inside of the hull really makes a great coupling to the seawater through the hull. (It's a nice capacitor). No, we didn't check the SWR. I wanted to add more foil and some ferrite cores to see how this helps out. I wanted to do the things I can do rather than pay the tech all those $$$ for basically grunt work. I can call him back out whenever. You don't need to worry about this SWR nonsense. The Icom M802 will not transmit until it is satisfied the overall SWR of the system is acceptable, near perfect. That's what the tuner is for. With your short antenna, however, you may find it won't tune some of the lower frequencies below 4 Mhz. The short whip IS part of your interference problems. All the radiation of 150 watts of RF power is happening on the length of this short whip.....WAY TOO CLOSE TO THE SENSITIVE, UNSHIELDED OR POORLY SHIELDED ELECTRONICS it is tearing up. There is also a lot of radiation coming from the strap to the dynaplate. It's the other half of a dipole antenna and the tuner is actually in the middle of it. There is no ground at any tuner unless the tuner is using a steel deck for ground right under it. This is just normal. There's nothing you can do to change it. If it didn't radiate, noone would hear you!...(c; No, my hand doesn't burn when transmitting! ;-) Naw. It's only 150 watts. Too much cellular phone propaganda trying to convince the public RF is dangerous so they can turn the phone power down without the unsuspecting public, whos phone range just went way down at 200 mw, raising hell with the FCC. 150 watts isn't high power and, unless you make direct contact with the upper end of the whip, won't burn you. 650 watts from my ham radio mobile antenna with the high voltage corona spraying off the top and ends of the big capacitor hat, WILL burn you...(c; Yes, I believe the VHF cable needs replacing. It's old and probably cracked somewhere along the line. The Link 20 DOES have the sheilded cabling as Larry described, but the ground foil runs right alongside in the same chase. I don't think I connected the sheild to ground though... I'll fix that. The shield only should be connected to the LINK's SYSTEM GROUND, NOT THE FOIL. Hooking it to the tuner's foil WILL induce a lot of current into the cable. Only hook it on the end where the Link display is and ONLY to the Link, itself. Tape off the foil shield on the sensor end so it can't make contact with anything. That's a Faraday Shield. It's not part of the signal ground for the Link. I don't like running ANY data cabling anywhere near, to say nothing of in the same trunk, as the RF grounding system. That whole RF grounding system is radiating like hell! Running it beside the link cabling, which is NEVER 100% shielded, is going to cause trouble. Take the Link cable out of this wireway, along with everything else with data or hooked to a transistor......or reroute the RF grounding system to someplace by itself. Don't even run it alongside DC wiring because the DC wiring in the boat will all become very RF "hot" creating its own problems....especially with these damned fancy battery chargers. -- Keith __ Money can't buy happiness, but it sure makes misery easier to live with. Money can buy a lot of happiness. Take me to a strip joint and let's test this theory in action!...(c; Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! |
SSB reflected power?
An antenna tuner does not belong on the bridge! That is the worst
place for it. The first thing I would do is to get that tech back and make him put the tuner where it belongs, In the bilge! Right next to the ground. You must have a very short ground lead. The length you have now comes no where near being ground. You might get away with it on 2 Mhz but not anything higher. Mount the antenna down near the deck if you have to. Keep the antenna as far away from other electronics AND wiring as you can. It will not hurt to have a long antenna lead from the tuner to the antenna as long as it is in the clear and away from other wires. Remember that the antenna lead IS part of the antenna, just as much as the whip is. The most important thing is to have a SHORT ground lead. Right now your ground lead is acting as part of your antenna and coupling into all the other wiring. Especially your LINK system with the leads right next to the ground lead. (which in your case is part of the antenna)!! Once you have the proper ground then it is a much easier job to start to eliminate RF being picked up directly from the antenna. The problem now is that it is probably being picked up from both the ground lead and the antenna. It is very difficult to deal with both. Once a lead leaves the ground connection (connection at the dynaplate) then the rest becomes antenna. It doesn't matter what side of the tuner it is on. Remember "if it isn't ground then it is antenna". Regards Gary On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 08:05:10 -0600, "Keith" wrote: OK, more details on the system. Icom 802 going to the AT-140 automatic antenna tuner. Yes, the tuner is working, you can hear the relays clicking when you press the "tune" button or transmit. The antenna (made by the Digital company... I should have specified!) is on the flying bridge, as is the tuner. The tuner is about 3' from the antenna. The antenna is right behind and above the pilothouse. The base is maybe 10' from the wheel and electronics, etc. 2" copper foil runs from the radio to the antenna tuner, and splits off about midway and goes to the bilge, where it's connected to a dynaplate. I plan to add some more foil and connect the fuel tanks and run some radials down there as well. Lets see: the run from the radio to the antenna tuner is about 25', and the run from that one to the dynaplate is about 10'. No, we didn't check the SWR. I wanted to add more foil and some ferrite cores to see how this helps out. I wanted to do the things I can do rather than pay the tech all those $$$ for basically grunt work. I can call him back out whenever. No, my hand doesn't burn when transmitting! ;-) Yes, I believe the VHF cable needs replacing. It's old and probably cracked somewhere along the line. The Link 20 DOES have the sheilded cabling as Larry described, but the ground foil runs right alongside in the same chase. I don't think I connected the sheild to ground though... I'll fix that. |
SSB reflected power?
In article ,
"Keith" wrote: OK, more details on the system. Icom 802 going to the AT-140 automatic antenna tuner. Yes, the tuner is working, you can hear the relays clicking when you press the "tune" button or transmit. The antenna (made by the Digital company... I should have specified!) is on the flying bridge, as is the tuner. The tuner is about 3' from the antenna. The antenna is right behind and above the pilothouse. The base is maybe 10' from the wheel and electronics, etc. 2" copper foil runs from the radio to the antenna tuner, and splits off about midway and goes to the bilge, where it's connected to a dynaplate. I plan to add some more foil and connect the fuel tanks and run some radials down there as well. Lets see: the run from the radio to the antenna tuner is about 25', and the run from that one to the dynaplate is about 10'. No, we didn't check the SWR. I wanted to add more foil and some ferrite cores to see how this helps out. I wanted to do the things I can do rather than pay the tech all those $$$ for basically grunt work. I can call him back out whenever. No, my hand doesn't burn when transmitting! ;-) Yes, I believe the VHF cable needs replacing. It's old and probably cracked somewhere along the line. The Link 20 DOES have the sheilded cabling as Larry described, but the ground foil runs right alongside in the same chase. I don't think I connected the sheild to ground though... I'll fix that. -- Keith Well Keith, Sounds like the rest of the folks have chimed in on your problems, and nailed down the fixes. I really like Gary's comments, as he seems to have a good handle on what is going on. Larry is ok for some things, but Larry, 100 watts will certainly burn you from the grounded Micholder button on the mic during transmit, If the ground system isn't good enough to support the antenna at the freuqency of transmission. The Radio Ground becomes part of the antenna, and you then also become part of the antenna, and if you are lower impedance than the ground system you get the Rf Current instead of the Ground system. It happens, not alot but it does happen, less now with autotuners, but it still happens. Keith, you need to get a new Marine Radio Service Tech! One who actually has been around since BEFORE autotuners existed. The guy you had was an idiot, and needs to go back and get a refund on his training. You should also get a refund on anything you paid him, BIGTIME. I know that COMPITANT Marine Radio Service Tech's are hard to come by, as most have left the field because there just ins't any money in the Service end of the business anymore, but look around some more and find one. Bruce in alaska -- add a 2 before @ |
SSB reflected power?
(sigh) Where DO they get these crazy ideas?......
Lionheart's tuner is 2' from the insulated backstay on top of the aft cabin. Wanna see my QSL card from Osaka, Japan on 15 meters? I was 5 by 6 with just the little 150 watt transmitter. Not bad, given the awful conditions of the ionosphere these days and all the masts suckin' up my signal from Ashley Marina...... "Ground" is a relative thing in RF. You don't even need a "ground" ground. What you need is a slightly longer than 1/4 wavelength radial system from the tuner laid out flat. But, alas, that's not practical because my captain keeps bitching at me every time he trips over my ground screen, so we compromise with a copper strap to the engine block and my trailing wire behind the boat while at sea, creating a giant L antenna with the tuner in the corner of the L. Man, that works great! Putting the tuner in the bilge, you have a problem. The "radiating element" starts at that high voltage terminal on the other end of the tuner. ANYTHING CONDUCTIVE anywhere near (10'?) it will become part of the tuning problem and part of the load on the radiating element. Any boat wiring anywhere near that radiating element WILL suck off your signal into its light bulb loads, and shunt off your signal to anything it's connected to.....subtracting from what goes on the air. Nope....doesn't wash. The tuner needs to be as close to the antenna as possible and the antenna needs to be as far away from any other metal objects as you can get it. Unfortunately, in a boat, that's never far enough unless you're on a ship. Go visit any Navy ship and notice how the antenna tuners are all mounted right UNDER the bottom of those 35' nice aluminum whips sitting on huge insulators. Lucky steel hull owners have great ground planes. For the rest of us, hook as many different ground paths as you can from the ground lug on the tuner to as much metal and ground plates as you have available. The more the better. (Engineers note on trailing grounds - Don't put something shiny on the trailing end to haul out the wire behind you. "Something" ate my beer can and half the trailing wire!) On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 17:22:54 GMT, Gary Schafer wrote: An antenna tuner does not belong on the bridge! That is the worst place for it. The first thing I would do is to get that tech back and make him put the tuner where it belongs, In the bilge! Right next to the ground. You must have a very short ground lead. The length you have now comes no where near being ground. You might get away with it on 2 Mhz but not anything higher. Mount the antenna down near the deck if you have to. Keep the antenna as far away from other electronics AND wiring as you can. It will not hurt to have a long antenna lead from the tuner to the antenna as long as it is in the clear and away from other wires. Remember that the antenna lead IS part of the antenna, just as much as the whip is. The most important thing is to have a SHORT ground lead. Right now your ground lead is acting as part of your antenna and coupling into all the other wiring. Especially your LINK system with the leads right next to the ground lead. (which in your case is part of the antenna)!! Once you have the proper ground then it is a much easier job to start to eliminate RF being picked up directly from the antenna. The problem now is that it is probably being picked up from both the ground lead and the antenna. It is very difficult to deal with both. Once a lead leaves the ground connection (connection at the dynaplate) then the rest becomes antenna. It doesn't matter what side of the tuner it is on. Remember "if it isn't ground then it is antenna". Regards Gary On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 08:05:10 -0600, "Keith" wrote: OK, more details on the system. Icom 802 going to the AT-140 automatic antenna tuner. Yes, the tuner is working, you can hear the relays clicking when you press the "tune" button or transmit. The antenna (made by the Digital company... I should have specified!) is on the flying bridge, as is the tuner. The tuner is about 3' from the antenna. The antenna is right behind and above the pilothouse. The base is maybe 10' from the wheel and electronics, etc. 2" copper foil runs from the radio to the antenna tuner, and splits off about midway and goes to the bilge, where it's connected to a dynaplate. I plan to add some more foil and connect the fuel tanks and run some radials down there as well. Lets see: the run from the radio to the antenna tuner is about 25', and the run from that one to the dynaplate is about 10'. No, we didn't check the SWR. I wanted to add more foil and some ferrite cores to see how this helps out. I wanted to do the things I can do rather than pay the tech all those $$$ for basically grunt work. I can call him back out whenever. No, my hand doesn't burn when transmitting! ;-) Yes, I believe the VHF cable needs replacing. It's old and probably cracked somewhere along the line. The Link 20 DOES have the sheilded cabling as Larry described, but the ground foil runs right alongside in the same chase. I don't think I connected the sheild to ground though... I'll fix that. Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! |
SSB reflected power?
I tried the trailing wire bit last spring on the way back across the
GS. Didn't seem to make any difference over just having the ground connected to a thru-hull. I guess it depends upon the specifc installation. Doug, k3qt s/v Callista "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... (sigh) Where DO they get these crazy ideas?...... Lionheart's tuner is 2' from the insulated backstay on top of the aft cabin. Wanna see my QSL card from Osaka, Japan on 15 meters? I was 5 by 6 with just the little 150 watt transmitter. Not bad, given the awful conditions of the ionosphere these days and all the masts suckin' up my signal from Ashley Marina...... "Ground" is a relative thing in RF. You don't even need a "ground" ground. What you need is a slightly longer than 1/4 wavelength radial system from the tuner laid out flat. But, alas, that's not practical because my captain keeps bitching at me every time he trips over my ground screen, so we compromise with a copper strap to the engine block and my trailing wire behind the boat while at sea, creating a giant L antenna with the tuner in the corner of the L. Man, that works great! Putting the tuner in the bilge, you have a problem. The "radiating element" starts at that high voltage terminal on the other end of the tuner. ANYTHING CONDUCTIVE anywhere near (10'?) it will become part of the tuning problem and part of the load on the radiating element. Any boat wiring anywhere near that radiating element WILL suck off your signal into its light bulb loads, and shunt off your signal to anything it's connected to.....subtracting from what goes on the air. Nope....doesn't wash. The tuner needs to be as close to the antenna as possible and the antenna needs to be as far away from any other metal objects as you can get it. Unfortunately, in a boat, that's never far enough unless you're on a ship. Go visit any Navy ship and notice how the antenna tuners are all mounted right UNDER the bottom of those 35' nice aluminum whips sitting on huge insulators. Lucky steel hull owners have great ground planes. For the rest of us, hook as many different ground paths as you can from the ground lug on the tuner to as much metal and ground plates as you have available. The more the better. (Engineers note on trailing grounds - Don't put something shiny on the trailing end to haul out the wire behind you. "Something" ate my beer can and half the trailing wire!) On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 17:22:54 GMT, Gary Schafer wrote: An antenna tuner does not belong on the bridge! That is the worst place for it. The first thing I would do is to get that tech back and make him put the tuner where it belongs, In the bilge! Right next to the ground. You must have a very short ground lead. The length you have now comes no where near being ground. You might get away with it on 2 Mhz but not anything higher. Mount the antenna down near the deck if you have to. Keep the antenna as far away from other electronics AND wiring as you can. It will not hurt to have a long antenna lead from the tuner to the antenna as long as it is in the clear and away from other wires. Remember that the antenna lead IS part of the antenna, just as much as the whip is. The most important thing is to have a SHORT ground lead. Right now your ground lead is acting as part of your antenna and coupling into all the other wiring. Especially your LINK system with the leads right next to the ground lead. (which in your case is part of the antenna)!! Once you have the proper ground then it is a much easier job to start to eliminate RF being picked up directly from the antenna. The problem now is that it is probably being picked up from both the ground lead and the antenna. It is very difficult to deal with both. Once a lead leaves the ground connection (connection at the dynaplate) then the rest becomes antenna. It doesn't matter what side of the tuner it is on. Remember "if it isn't ground then it is antenna". Regards Gary On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 08:05:10 -0600, "Keith" wrote: OK, more details on the system. Icom 802 going to the AT-140 automatic antenna tuner. Yes, the tuner is working, you can hear the relays clicking when you press the "tune" button or transmit. The antenna (made by the Digital company... I should have specified!) is on the flying bridge, as is the tuner. The tuner is about 3' from the antenna. The antenna is right behind and above the pilothouse. The base is maybe 10' from the wheel and electronics, etc. 2" copper foil runs from the radio to the antenna tuner, and splits off about midway and goes to the bilge, where it's connected to a dynaplate. I plan to add some more foil and connect the fuel tanks and run some radials down there as well. Lets see: the run from the radio to the antenna tuner is about 25', and the run from that one to the dynaplate is about 10'. No, we didn't check the SWR. I wanted to add more foil and some ferrite cores to see how this helps out. I wanted to do the things I can do rather than pay the tech all those $$$ for basically grunt work. I can call him back out whenever. No, my hand doesn't burn when transmitting! ;-) Yes, I believe the VHF cable needs replacing. It's old and probably cracked somewhere along the line. The Link 20 DOES have the sheilded cabling as Larry described, but the ground foil runs right alongside in the same chase. I don't think I connected the sheild to ground though... I'll fix that. Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! |
SSB reflected power?
It will probably make a big difference if you have a crappy ground to
start with. If you have a half decent ground you should not notice any difference. A long trailing wire in the sea is nothing more than a false ego trip. After the first couple of feet in the water the rest does nothing for the radio. It may make the operator feel more powerful though. Regards Gary On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 11:31:09 -0500, "Doug Dotson" wrote: I tried the trailing wire bit last spring on the way back across the GS. Didn't seem to make any difference over just having the ground connected to a thru-hull. I guess it depends upon the specifc installation. Doug, k3qt s/v Callista "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... (sigh) Where DO they get these crazy ideas?...... Lionheart's tuner is 2' from the insulated backstay on top of the aft cabin. Wanna see my QSL card from Osaka, Japan on 15 meters? I was 5 by 6 with just the little 150 watt transmitter. Not bad, given the awful conditions of the ionosphere these days and all the masts suckin' up my signal from Ashley Marina...... "Ground" is a relative thing in RF. You don't even need a "ground" ground. What you need is a slightly longer than 1/4 wavelength radial system from the tuner laid out flat. But, alas, that's not practical because my captain keeps bitching at me every time he trips over my ground screen, so we compromise with a copper strap to the engine block and my trailing wire behind the boat while at sea, creating a giant L antenna with the tuner in the corner of the L. Man, that works great! Putting the tuner in the bilge, you have a problem. The "radiating element" starts at that high voltage terminal on the other end of the tuner. ANYTHING CONDUCTIVE anywhere near (10'?) it will become part of the tuning problem and part of the load on the radiating element. Any boat wiring anywhere near that radiating element WILL suck off your signal into its light bulb loads, and shunt off your signal to anything it's connected to.....subtracting from what goes on the air. Nope....doesn't wash. The tuner needs to be as close to the antenna as possible and the antenna needs to be as far away from any other metal objects as you can get it. Unfortunately, in a boat, that's never far enough unless you're on a ship. Go visit any Navy ship and notice how the antenna tuners are all mounted right UNDER the bottom of those 35' nice aluminum whips sitting on huge insulators. Lucky steel hull owners have great ground planes. For the rest of us, hook as many different ground paths as you can from the ground lug on the tuner to as much metal and ground plates as you have available. The more the better. (Engineers note on trailing grounds - Don't put something shiny on the trailing end to haul out the wire behind you. "Something" ate my beer can and half the trailing wire!) On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 17:22:54 GMT, Gary Schafer wrote: An antenna tuner does not belong on the bridge! That is the worst place for it. The first thing I would do is to get that tech back and make him put the tuner where it belongs, In the bilge! Right next to the ground. You must have a very short ground lead. The length you have now comes no where near being ground. You might get away with it on 2 Mhz but not anything higher. Mount the antenna down near the deck if you have to. Keep the antenna as far away from other electronics AND wiring as you can. It will not hurt to have a long antenna lead from the tuner to the antenna as long as it is in the clear and away from other wires. Remember that the antenna lead IS part of the antenna, just as much as the whip is. The most important thing is to have a SHORT ground lead. Right now your ground lead is acting as part of your antenna and coupling into all the other wiring. Especially your LINK system with the leads right next to the ground lead. (which in your case is part of the antenna)!! Once you have the proper ground then it is a much easier job to start to eliminate RF being picked up directly from the antenna. The problem now is that it is probably being picked up from both the ground lead and the antenna. It is very difficult to deal with both. Once a lead leaves the ground connection (connection at the dynaplate) then the rest becomes antenna. It doesn't matter what side of the tuner it is on. Remember "if it isn't ground then it is antenna". Regards Gary On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 08:05:10 -0600, "Keith" wrote: OK, more details on the system. Icom 802 going to the AT-140 automatic antenna tuner. Yes, the tuner is working, you can hear the relays clicking when you press the "tune" button or transmit. The antenna (made by the Digital company... I should have specified!) is on the flying bridge, as is the tuner. The tuner is about 3' from the antenna. The antenna is right behind and above the pilothouse. The base is maybe 10' from the wheel and electronics, etc. 2" copper foil runs from the radio to the antenna tuner, and splits off about midway and goes to the bilge, where it's connected to a dynaplate. I plan to add some more foil and connect the fuel tanks and run some radials down there as well. Lets see: the run from the radio to the antenna tuner is about 25', and the run from that one to the dynaplate is about 10'. No, we didn't check the SWR. I wanted to add more foil and some ferrite cores to see how this helps out. I wanted to do the things I can do rather than pay the tech all those $$$ for basically grunt work. I can call him back out whenever. No, my hand doesn't burn when transmitting! ;-) Yes, I believe the VHF cable needs replacing. It's old and probably cracked somewhere along the line. The Link 20 DOES have the sheilded cabling as Larry described, but the ground foil runs right alongside in the same chase. I don't think I connected the sheild to ground though... I'll fix that. Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! |
SSB reflected power?
|
SSB reflected power?
"Larry W4CSC" wrote
"Ground" is a relative thing in RF. You don't even need a "ground" ground. What you need is a slightly longer than 1/4 wavelength radial system from the tuner laid out flat. Or a dipole. Nope....doesn't wash. The tuner needs to be as close to the antenna as possible and the antenna needs to be as far away from any other metal objects as you can get it. .... Go visit any Navy ship .... See "Shipboard Antennas", Library of Congress #86-70448, especially the AS-1867 in fig 2-33 on p105. |
SSB reflected power?
"Gary Schafer" wrote in message ... It will probably make a big difference if you have a crappy ground to start with. If you have a half decent ground you should not notice any difference. QED :) A long trailing wire in the sea is nothing more than a false ego trip. After the first couple of feet in the water the rest does nothing for the radio. It may make the operator feel more powerful though. It would seem it does :) Regards Gary On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 11:31:09 -0500, "Doug Dotson" wrote: I tried the trailing wire bit last spring on the way back across the GS. Didn't seem to make any difference over just having the ground connected to a thru-hull. I guess it depends upon the specifc installation. Doug, k3qt s/v Callista "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... (sigh) Where DO they get these crazy ideas?...... Lionheart's tuner is 2' from the insulated backstay on top of the aft cabin. Wanna see my QSL card from Osaka, Japan on 15 meters? I was 5 by 6 with just the little 150 watt transmitter. Not bad, given the awful conditions of the ionosphere these days and all the masts suckin' up my signal from Ashley Marina...... "Ground" is a relative thing in RF. You don't even need a "ground" ground. What you need is a slightly longer than 1/4 wavelength radial system from the tuner laid out flat. But, alas, that's not practical because my captain keeps bitching at me every time he trips over my ground screen, so we compromise with a copper strap to the engine block and my trailing wire behind the boat while at sea, creating a giant L antenna with the tuner in the corner of the L. Man, that works great! Putting the tuner in the bilge, you have a problem. The "radiating element" starts at that high voltage terminal on the other end of the tuner. ANYTHING CONDUCTIVE anywhere near (10'?) it will become part of the tuning problem and part of the load on the radiating element. Any boat wiring anywhere near that radiating element WILL suck off your signal into its light bulb loads, and shunt off your signal to anything it's connected to.....subtracting from what goes on the air. Nope....doesn't wash. The tuner needs to be as close to the antenna as possible and the antenna needs to be as far away from any other metal objects as you can get it. Unfortunately, in a boat, that's never far enough unless you're on a ship. Go visit any Navy ship and notice how the antenna tuners are all mounted right UNDER the bottom of those 35' nice aluminum whips sitting on huge insulators. Lucky steel hull owners have great ground planes. For the rest of us, hook as many different ground paths as you can from the ground lug on the tuner to as much metal and ground plates as you have available. The more the better. (Engineers note on trailing grounds - Don't put something shiny on the trailing end to haul out the wire behind you. "Something" ate my beer can and half the trailing wire!) On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 17:22:54 GMT, Gary Schafer wrote: An antenna tuner does not belong on the bridge! That is the worst place for it. The first thing I would do is to get that tech back and make him put the tuner where it belongs, In the bilge! Right next to the ground. You must have a very short ground lead. The length you have now comes no where near being ground. You might get away with it on 2 Mhz but not anything higher. Mount the antenna down near the deck if you have to. Keep the antenna as far away from other electronics AND wiring as you can. It will not hurt to have a long antenna lead from the tuner to the antenna as long as it is in the clear and away from other wires. Remember that the antenna lead IS part of the antenna, just as much as the whip is. The most important thing is to have a SHORT ground lead. Right now your ground lead is acting as part of your antenna and coupling into all the other wiring. Especially your LINK system with the leads right next to the ground lead. (which in your case is part of the antenna)!! Once you have the proper ground then it is a much easier job to start to eliminate RF being picked up directly from the antenna. The problem now is that it is probably being picked up from both the ground lead and the antenna. It is very difficult to deal with both. Once a lead leaves the ground connection (connection at the dynaplate) then the rest becomes antenna. It doesn't matter what side of the tuner it is on. Remember "if it isn't ground then it is antenna". Regards Gary On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 08:05:10 -0600, "Keith" wrote: OK, more details on the system. Icom 802 going to the AT-140 automatic antenna tuner. Yes, the tuner is working, you can hear the relays clicking when you press the "tune" button or transmit. The antenna (made by the Digital company... I should have specified!) is on the flying bridge, as is the tuner. The tuner is about 3' from the antenna. The antenna is right behind and above the pilothouse. The base is maybe 10' from the wheel and electronics, etc. 2" copper foil runs from the radio to the antenna tuner, and splits off about midway and goes to the bilge, where it's connected to a dynaplate. I plan to add some more foil and connect the fuel tanks and run some radials down there as well. Lets see: the run from the radio to the antenna tuner is about 25', and the run from that one to the dynaplate is about 10'. No, we didn't check the SWR. I wanted to add more foil and some ferrite cores to see how this helps out. I wanted to do the things I can do rather than pay the tech all those $$$ for basically grunt work. I can call him back out whenever. No, my hand doesn't burn when transmitting! ;-) Yes, I believe the VHF cable needs replacing. It's old and probably cracked somewhere along the line. The Link 20 DOES have the sheilded cabling as Larry described, but the ground foil runs right alongside in the same chase. I don't think I connected the sheild to ground though... I'll fix that. Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! |
SSB reflected power?
I'd go to a dipole in a second if I could figure out a practical
way of implementing it on my boat. Eliminates the whole counterpoise issue. Doug, k3qt s/v Callista "Vito" wrote in message ... "Larry W4CSC" wrote "Ground" is a relative thing in RF. You don't even need a "ground" ground. What you need is a slightly longer than 1/4 wavelength radial system from the tuner laid out flat. Or a dipole. Nope....doesn't wash. The tuner needs to be as close to the antenna as possible and the antenna needs to be as far away from any other metal objects as you can get it. .... Go visit any Navy ship .... See "Shipboard Antennas", Library of Congress #86-70448, especially the AS-1867 in fig 2-33 on p105. |
SSB reflected power?
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 10:50:56 -0500, "Vito" wrote:
"Larry W4CSC" wrote "Ground" is a relative thing in RF. You don't even need a "ground" ground. What you need is a slightly longer than 1/4 wavelength radial system from the tuner laid out flat. Or a dipole. Nope....doesn't wash. The tuner needs to be as close to the antenna as possible and the antenna needs to be as far away from any other metal objects as you can get it. .... Go visit any Navy ship .... See "Shipboard Antennas", Library of Congress #86-70448, especially the AS-1867 in fig 2-33 on p105. Maybe you could tell us what it says, provided it is relevant to yachts. :) Regards Gary |
SSB reflected power?
"Gary Schafer" wrot
On "Vito" wrote: "Larry W4CSC" wrote .... The tuner needs to be as close to the antenna as possible See "Shipboard Antennas", Library of Congress #86-70448, especially the AS-1867 in fig 2-33 on p105. Maybe you could tell us what it says, provided it is relevant to yachts. :) Shows the "tuner" directly attached to the antennae |
SSB reflected power?
"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
... I'd go to a dipole in a second if I could figure out a practical way of implementing it on my boat. Eliminates the whole counterpoise issue. Has anybody tried center feeding an insulated backstay - eg using it as a dipole, perhaps with loading coils or traps - or insulating and top feeding one or more pairs of shrouds to yield inverted Vs? 73, K3DWW |
SSB reflected power?
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 14:02:28 -0500, "Vito" wrote:
"Gary Schafer" wrot On "Vito" wrote: "Larry W4CSC" wrote .... The tuner needs to be as close to the antenna as possible See "Shipboard Antennas", Library of Congress #86-70448, especially the AS-1867 in fig 2-33 on p105. Maybe you could tell us what it says, provided it is relevant to yachts. :) Shows the "tuner" directly attached to the antennae And where is the ground located? Directly under the tuner? Regards Gary |
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