Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting a
marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers. Question: I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on mounting, as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need alot of constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and non-powered. Any help is appreciated. |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
"Matt" wrote in
: I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting a marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers. Question: I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on mounting, as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need alot of constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and non-powered. Any help is appreciated. There is no such thing as a "marine stereo". Putting a white face on a black faced car stereo that's wide open to the water doesn't wash, so to speak...pun intended. None of these car radios sold at marine stores is waterproof, so treat it like you would any ol car stereo and mount it way up inside the boat so it never gets wet unless the boat sinks. Even then you'll be hard pressed to keep it from getting wet. In a 21' bow rider, your best bet is inside any cabinetry the boat has on it. Putting it into a hole in the dash hanging out the back of the plastic over your knees in the open just hastens its failure....as soon as the boat gets splashed by a wake...when your feet get wet. Even with that "cover" on the front of it, the back is still wide open. ALL speakers must be PLASTIC coned....no paper at all. You must keep the back of the speakers DRY or it won't matter. Plastic speakers labeled "marine", other than tripling their price, only let you splash the front of them. If any of them have any METAL grillework, don't buy it...plastic doesn't rust. My advise....Get a nice PORTABLE stereo you can run off 12VDC plugged into the boat battery or a small AC inverter. One of those inverters built into the back of a cigarette lighter plug is plenty to power their AC cord. No mounting necessary and you can carry the radio over to the beach blanket or campsite on that little island. Put the stereo in a trashbag to keep all the water off it...It'll even run that way. Make sure the portable has no METAL cabinet parts...they're all cheap steel that will rust awful. My boat radio is one of the windup radios that also has a solar cell to run it in the sun....no connections, no batteries and it will run about an hour on a windup after the sun sets. It'll run continuously on the beach all day for nothing. |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
Larry wrote:
"Matt" wrote in : I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting a marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers. Question: I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on mounting, as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need alot of constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and non-powered. Any help is appreciated. There is no such thing as a "marine stereo". Putting a white face on a black faced car stereo that's wide open to the water doesn't wash, so to speak...pun intended. None of these car radios sold at marine stores is waterproof, so treat it like you would any ol car stereo and mount it way up inside the boat so it never gets wet unless the boat sinks. Even then you'll be hard pressed to keep it from getting wet. In a 21' bow rider, your best bet is inside any cabinetry the boat has on it. Putting it into a hole in the dash hanging out the back of the plastic over your knees in the open just hastens its failure....as soon as the boat gets splashed by a wake...when your feet get wet. Even with that "cover" on the front of it, the back is still wide open. ALL speakers must be PLASTIC coned....no paper at all. You must keep the back of the speakers DRY or it won't matter. Plastic speakers labeled "marine", other than tripling their price, only let you splash the front of them. If any of them have any METAL grillework, don't buy it...plastic doesn't rust. My advise....Get a nice PORTABLE stereo you can run off 12VDC plugged into the boat battery or a small AC inverter. One of those inverters built into the back of a cigarette lighter plug is plenty to power their AC cord. No mounting necessary and you can carry the radio over to the beach blanket or campsite on that little island. Put the stereo in a trashbag to keep all the water off it...It'll even run that way. Make sure the portable has no METAL cabinet parts...they're all cheap steel that will rust awful. My boat radio is one of the windup radios that also has a solar cell to run it in the sun....no connections, no batteries and it will run about an hour on a windup after the sun sets. It'll run continuously on the beach all day for nothing. Ok, Larry. But I hope he anchors in YOUR neighborhood instead of mine. |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 02:56:56 +0000, Larry wrote:
"Matt" wrote in : I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting a marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers. Question: I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on mounting, as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need alot of constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and non-powered. Any help is appreciated. There is no such thing as a "marine stereo". Putting a white face on a black faced car stereo that's wide open to the water doesn't wash, so to speak...pun intended. None of these car radios sold at marine stores is waterproof, so treat it like you would any ol car stereo and mount it way up inside the boat so it never gets wet unless the boat sinks. Even then you'll be hard pressed to keep it from getting wet. Well, I agree that some stereos labeled "marine" are not worthy of the name, but there are those that DO deserve the name. Being "Marine" doesn't have to mean something is submersible. It means that it is designed and constructed to hold up in a marine environment. That means things like careful choice of materials for mechanical parts, and conformal coatings for circuit boards. In the case of electronics, it doesn't mean water tight or water proof. Just a resistance to corrosion in a humid environment. For that matter, I've seen "marine" speakers that are totally waterproof, but are open backed. That means that if you get pooped, or knocked down, you may have some instant 6 inch diameter holes in your cockpit leading into your boats interior. Not good. |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep is as
dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am unsure if it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n a boat would be difficult.. Thanks! "Matt" wrote in message ... I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting a marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers. Question: I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on mounting, as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need alot of constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and non-powered. Any help is appreciated. |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
On Feb 14, 5:41*am, "Matt" wrote:
Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep is as dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am unsure if it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n a boat would be difficult.. No, they don't need constant airflow. However, the more restricted the area you mount it, the more you should consider the quality of the amp. Alpine has compact stackable marine amps. Pricey, but worth a look. I've used Alpine equipment for years and have never had a complaint. They might even have minimum clearance specs. Remember too that unless it has some kind of decent housing, it's likely to get hot. Even while idling. Don't want kids or hot chicks accidentally burning themselves on it. -phish |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
10-4, I was looking at a PYLE 6CH Marine amp. I know they are not top of
the line, but i have learned from past audio equipment even the best 'marine' equipment doesn't do well in a 'marine' enviorment... Definately don't want the hot chicks getting burnt, i plan on mounting it in a comparment infront of the drivers seat, it's enclosed and virtually impossible for someone to get burnt... Thanks for the info!!! "phishrace" wrote in message ... On Feb 14, 5:41 am, "Matt" wrote: Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep is as dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am unsure if it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n a boat would be difficult.. No, they don't need constant airflow. However, the more restricted the area you mount it, the more you should consider the quality of the amp. Alpine has compact stackable marine amps. Pricey, but worth a look. I've used Alpine equipment for years and have never had a complaint. They might even have minimum clearance specs. Remember too that unless it has some kind of decent housing, it's likely to get hot. Even while idling. Don't want kids or hot chicks accidentally burning themselves on it. -phish |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
In article , "Matt" wrote:
Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep is as dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am unsure if it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n a boat would be difficult.. Thanks! "Matt" wrote in message ... I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting a marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers. Question: I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on mounting, as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need alot of constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and non-powered. Any help is appreciated. Why do you need 6 channels ? Surely needs air to breath. You must use a fan in an enclosed area with entry air points. Some amps allready have fans. My old Pioneer amp had two fans that went along with the music. If heat is a real concern, a full switching amp is the best way to go. PLYE oh the good old days. Pyrimid watts or Pyle watts they call them. I remember when Pyle was a decent American manufacturer of speakers. There is something to be said for throwaway electronics in sal****er marine installations. Typical "Marine" equipment is usually cheap with some kind of O rings somewhere. greg |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
Well i really would like a 5 channel, 4 for the speakers and mono for the
sub... Pyle only has a 6 channel so that will work too... I didn't want to have a second amp just for the sub, and didn't want to get a powered sub... What do you suggest? "GregS" wrote in message ... In article , "Matt" wrote: Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep is as dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am unsure if it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n a boat would be difficult.. Thanks! "Matt" wrote in message ... I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting a marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers. Question: I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on mounting, as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need alot of constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and non-powered. Any help is appreciated. Why do you need 6 channels ? Surely needs air to breath. You must use a fan in an enclosed area with entry air points. Some amps allready have fans. My old Pioneer amp had two fans that went along with the music. If heat is a real concern, a full switching amp is the best way to go. PLYE oh the good old days. Pyrimid watts or Pyle watts they call them. I remember when Pyle was a decent American manufacturer of speakers. There is something to be said for throwaway electronics in sal****er marine installations. Typical "Marine" equipment is usually cheap with some kind of O rings somewhere. greg |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
In article , "Matt" wrote:
Well i really would like a 5 channel, 4 for the speakers and mono for the sub... Pyle only has a 6 channel so that will work too... I didn't want to have a second amp just for the sub, and didn't want to get a powered sub... What do you suggest? I would probably use a 4 channel amp thats convertable to 3 channel. One for the sub and a stereo output for two sets of 4 ohm speakers. The amp must be able to drive 2 ohms, else use 8 ohm speakers. Driving low ohms produces more heat, unfortunately. greg "GregS" wrote in message ... In article , "Matt" wrote: Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep is as dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am unsure if it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n a boat would be difficult.. Thanks! "Matt" wrote in message ... I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting a marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers. Question: I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on mounting, as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need alot of constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and non-powered. Any help is appreciated. Why do you need 6 channels ? Surely needs air to breath. You must use a fan in an enclosed area with entry air points. Some amps allready have fans. My old Pioneer amp had two fans that went along with the music. If heat is a real concern, a full switching amp is the best way to go. PLYE oh the good old days. Pyrimid watts or Pyle watts they call them. I remember when Pyle was a decent American manufacturer of speakers. There is something to be said for throwaway electronics in sal****er marine installations. Typical "Marine" equipment is usually cheap with some kind of O rings somewhere. greg |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
So you recommend something like this PLMRA420
(http://www.pyleaudio.com/manuals/PLMRA220-420.pdf) but would I be able to setup the four speakers on the two preamps, and all i would lose is the ability to fade front to back correct? then bridge the other for the sub???? would that work? ? ? Thanx. "GregS" wrote in message ... In article , "Matt" wrote: Well i really would like a 5 channel, 4 for the speakers and mono for the sub... Pyle only has a 6 channel so that will work too... I didn't want to have a second amp just for the sub, and didn't want to get a powered sub... What do you suggest? I would probably use a 4 channel amp thats convertable to 3 channel. One for the sub and a stereo output for two sets of 4 ohm speakers. The amp must be able to drive 2 ohms, else use 8 ohm speakers. Driving low ohms produces more heat, unfortunately. greg "GregS" wrote in message ... In article , "Matt" wrote: Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep is as dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am unsure if it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n a boat would be difficult.. Thanks! "Matt" wrote in message ... I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting a marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers. Question: I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on mounting, as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need alot of constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and non-powered. Any help is appreciated. Why do you need 6 channels ? Surely needs air to breath. You must use a fan in an enclosed area with entry air points. Some amps allready have fans. My old Pioneer amp had two fans that went along with the music. If heat is a real concern, a full switching amp is the best way to go. PLYE oh the good old days. Pyrimid watts or Pyle watts they call them. I remember when Pyle was a decent American manufacturer of speakers. There is something to be said for throwaway electronics in sal****er marine installations. Typical "Marine" equipment is usually cheap with some kind of O rings somewhere. greg |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
Follow-up, I was looking to match that amp up with, my current 4 6.5
infinity kappas, then either the Pyle 8" non-amplified sub enclosure or the Bazooka 8" sub enclosure (if the 10" bazooka will fit, maybe i'll go with that) all are 4ohms. "Matt" wrote in message ... So you recommend something like this PLMRA420 (http://www.pyleaudio.com/manuals/PLMRA220-420.pdf) but would I be able to setup the four speakers on the two preamps, and all i would lose is the ability to fade front to back correct? then bridge the other for the sub???? would that work? ? ? Thanx. "GregS" wrote in message ... In article , "Matt" wrote: Well i really would like a 5 channel, 4 for the speakers and mono for the sub... Pyle only has a 6 channel so that will work too... I didn't want to have a second amp just for the sub, and didn't want to get a powered sub... What do you suggest? I would probably use a 4 channel amp thats convertable to 3 channel. One for the sub and a stereo output for two sets of 4 ohm speakers. The amp must be able to drive 2 ohms, else use 8 ohm speakers. Driving low ohms produces more heat, unfortunately. greg "GregS" wrote in message .. . In article , "Matt" wrote: Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep is as dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am unsure if it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n a boat would be difficult.. Thanks! "Matt" wrote in message ... I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting a marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers. Question: I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on mounting, as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need alot of constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and non-powered. Any help is appreciated. Why do you need 6 channels ? Surely needs air to breath. You must use a fan in an enclosed area with entry air points. Some amps allready have fans. My old Pioneer amp had two fans that went along with the music. If heat is a real concern, a full switching amp is the best way to go. PLYE oh the good old days. Pyrimid watts or Pyle watts they call them. I remember when Pyle was a decent American manufacturer of speakers. There is something to be said for throwaway electronics in sal****er marine installations. Typical "Marine" equipment is usually cheap with some kind of O rings somewhere. greg |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
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Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
I will be adding a second battery and a switch prior to installation of the
audio equipment... "Larry" wrote in message ... (GregS) wrote in news:gnh45v$gt2$1 @usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu: I would probably use a 4 channel amp thats convertable to 3 channel. One for the sub and a stereo output for two sets of 4 ohm speakers. The amp must be able to drive 2 ohms, else use 8 ohm speakers. Driving low ohms produces more heat, unfortunately. greg I'm just an observer in this thread, but can I ask what kind of CHARGING and BATTERY system this boat has to power all this load? The average outboard motor charges tops at about 10-12 amps....TOTAL......at full throttle....... |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
"Matt" wrote in
: will be adding a second battery and a switch prior to installation of the audio equipment... That's great for the beach. What's the CHARGING capacity to supply power to it? Big amps turned up loud have 20, 30, 50, 60, 75, 100A fuses. They're not fused that heavy to impress buyers. And, please make SURE the wiring from battery to the amps is more than ample to blow the fuses so we don't read about "burning boat" and "ensuing fire". It's very easy to melt light wiring before the big fuses melt. |
Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)
In article , "Matt" wrote:
Follow-up, I was looking to match that amp up with, my current 4 6.5 infinity kappas, then either the Pyle 8" non-amplified sub enclosure or the Bazooka 8" sub enclosure (if the 10" bazooka will fit, maybe i'll go with that) all are 4ohms. They don't give much specs but that should work. Funny it says waterproof and has holes !! It didn't say where it would drive 2 ohms in non bridged mode. I huess you don't get much specs for such low price. I don't know if that amp has low/high filters but you need that. Here is one that does..... http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=265-096 greg |
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