Dick Locke wrote:
OK, I'll ask for the cure now. We do have your book but my wife hid it
someplace....

Probably no more than a few ounces escaped. I'm going to assume some
got through a limber hole and into the bilge itself.

It's in my book:

Buy some Raritan K.O. holding tank treatment...it's a live bacteria
product that "eats" odor-producing spores (similar products are
available at pet supply stores to get rid pet odor accidents, but
they’re diluted and considerably more expensive). Clean the spill area
with detergent and water, but don't use bleach, Lysol or any other
"antibacterial" product. When the area is dry (no more than barely
damp), put some K.O. in a trigger sprayer or pump-up garden spray bottle
and liberally saturate the area with it. Don't rinse...let it dry,
leaving that area open so that plenty of fresh air can circulate for 24
hours. That will get rid of the odor permanently. If you still have odor
after you’ve closed everything up again, you missed a spot.

Spraying with K.O. also works to get rid of musty odors in lockers,
cushions, life jackets etc. Put anything loose out the sun to dry.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327

Peggie, this is a good time to ask you something that has puzzled me ... is
there actually bacteria in KO, because if the bacteria is aerobic, how does
it live in the sealed bottle?
"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Dick Locke wrote:
OK, I'll ask for the cure now. We do have your book but my wife hid it
someplace....

Probably no more than a few ounces escaped. I'm going to assume some
got through a limber hole and into the bilge itself.

It's in my book:

Buy some Raritan K.O. holding tank treatment...it's a live bacteria
product that "eats" odor-producing spores (similar products are
available at pet supply stores to get rid pet odor accidents, but
they’re diluted and considerably more expensive). Clean the spill area
with detergent and water, but don't use bleach, Lysol or any other
"antibacterial" product. When the area is dry (no more than barely
damp), put some K.O. in a trigger sprayer or pump-up garden spray bottle
and liberally saturate the area with it. Don't rinse...let it dry,
leaving that area open so that plenty of fresh air can circulate for 24
hours. That will get rid of the odor permanently. If you still have odor
after you’ve closed everything up again, you missed a spot.

Spraying with K.O. also works to get rid of musty odors in lockers,
cushions, life jackets etc. Put anything loose out the sun to dry.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327

Peggie, this is a good time to ask you something that has puzzled me ... is
there actually bacteria in KO, because if the bacteria is aerobic, how does
it live in the sealed bottle?
"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Dick Locke wrote:
OK, I'll ask for the cure now. We do have your book but my wife hid it
someplace....

Probably no more than a few ounces escaped. I'm going to assume some
got through a limber hole and into the bilge itself.

It's in my book:

Buy some Raritan K.O. holding tank treatment...it's a live bacteria
product that "eats" odor-producing spores (similar products are
available at pet supply stores to get rid pet odor accidents, but
they’re diluted and considerably more expensive). Clean the spill area
with detergent and water, but don't use bleach, Lysol or any other
"antibacterial" product. When the area is dry (no more than barely
damp), put some K.O. in a trigger sprayer or pump-up garden spray bottle
and liberally saturate the area with it. Don't rinse...let it dry,
leaving that area open so that plenty of fresh air can circulate for 24
hours. That will get rid of the odor permanently. If you still have odor
after you’ve closed everything up again, you missed a spot.

Spraying with K.O. also works to get rid of musty odors in lockers,
cushions, life jackets etc. Put anything loose out the sun to dry.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327

I just finished a new holding tank installation. I have two
independent, top mounted lines to empty the tank. One to the deck pump
out and one to a Sealand T 12 Bellows pump. This pump is bullet proof
, easy to service and can run dry forever.

I made a couple of plumbing modifications to make servicing the system
easier.

1. where possible, I used PVC
2. I used Sealand barbless connectors everywhere.
3. All connections at the tank were made with cleanout tee's. Simply
remove the plug and push a rod down to clear any blockage. No need to
remove the hoses.
4. Put a tee and plug in front of the pump so antifreeze can be
introduced there instead of filling up the tank.
5. All hoses are pitched so there is no standing water in any hose.
6. Since the Sealand pump has one way valves and the thruhull is only
opened to discharge the tank, there is no high loop in the discharge
line.
7. Added a high loop to the toilet flush water line between the hand
pump and the bowl.






On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 00:59:07 GMT, Dick Locke
wrote:

I have what I think is overkill on my holding tank pumpout setup but I
want to check to see if anyone has experience saying it's a good idea.

The holding tank has three pumpout lines. One to the deck for the
shore-based vacuum pumpout, one to an electric macerator pump, and a
third that goes to the manual bilge pump via a y-valve. The manual
bilge pump can be directed to pump from the bilge or from the holding
tank.

I had a small leak in the third pumpout line where it connects to the
y-valve. Rather than trouble-shoot why sewage is in that line, I'm
inclined to simply remove it. I hate to see the manual bilge pump
complicated with y-valves, it would take some extraordinary
circumstances to make me want to run sewage through bilge pump lines
that aren't designed for it, and I can carry a spare macerator pump.

Has anyone been in circumstances where they found this setup valuable,
or where they wished they had this setup?

I just finished a new holding tank installation. I have two
independent, top mounted lines to empty the tank. One to the deck pump
out and one to a Sealand T 12 Bellows pump. This pump is bullet proof
, easy to service and can run dry forever.

I made a couple of plumbing modifications to make servicing the system
easier.

1. where possible, I used PVC
2. I used Sealand barbless connectors everywhere.
3. All connections at the tank were made with cleanout tee's. Simply
remove the plug and push a rod down to clear any blockage. No need to
remove the hoses.
4. Put a tee and plug in front of the pump so antifreeze can be
introduced there instead of filling up the tank.
5. All hoses are pitched so there is no standing water in any hose.
6. Since the Sealand pump has one way valves and the thruhull is only
opened to discharge the tank, there is no high loop in the discharge
line.
7. Added a high loop to the toilet flush water line between the hand
pump and the bowl.






On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 00:59:07 GMT, Dick Locke
wrote:

I have what I think is overkill on my holding tank pumpout setup but I
want to check to see if anyone has experience saying it's a good idea.

The holding tank has three pumpout lines. One to the deck for the
shore-based vacuum pumpout, one to an electric macerator pump, and a
third that goes to the manual bilge pump via a y-valve. The manual
bilge pump can be directed to pump from the bilge or from the holding
tank.

I had a small leak in the third pumpout line where it connects to the
y-valve. Rather than trouble-shoot why sewage is in that line, I'm
inclined to simply remove it. I hate to see the manual bilge pump
complicated with y-valves, it would take some extraordinary
circumstances to make me want to run sewage through bilge pump lines
that aren't designed for it, and I can carry a spare macerator pump.

Has anyone been in circumstances where they found this setup valuable,
or where they wished they had this setup?

On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 00:59:07 GMT, Dick Locke
wrote:

I have what I think is overkill on my holding tank pumpout setup but I
want to check to see if anyone has experience saying it's a good idea.

The holding tank has three pumpout lines. One to the deck for the
shore-based vacuum pumpout, one to an electric macerator pump, and a
third that goes to the manual bilge pump via a y-valve. The manual
bilge pump can be directed to pump from the bilge or from the holding
tank.

I had a small leak in the third pumpout line where it connects to the
y-valve. Rather than trouble-shoot why sewage is in that line, I'myyynclined to simply remove it. I hate to see the manual bilge pump
complicated with y-valves, it would take some extraordinary
circumstances to make me want to run sewage through bilge pump lines
that aren't designed for it, and I can carry a spare macerator pump.

Has anyone been in circumstances where they found this setup valuable,
or where they wished they had this setup?

I don't think this is needed. I have an old boat whose holding tank
was not meant to be used. I yyo th ehead always goes to the holding
tank, and rigged my old bilge pump to exhaust the tank to the same
seacock that the Y-valve led to originally..

When I am offshore, I can pump the tank.y

Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a


"Be careful. The toe you stepped on yesterday may be connected to the ass you have to kiss today." --Former mayor Ciancia

On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 00:59:07 GMT, Dick Locke
wrote:

I have what I think is overkill on my holding tank pumpout setup but I
want to check to see if anyone has experience saying it's a good idea.

The holding tank has three pumpout lines. One to the deck for the
shore-based vacuum pumpout, one to an electric macerator pump, and a
third that goes to the manual bilge pump via a y-valve. The manual
bilge pump can be directed to pump from the bilge or from the holding
tank.

I had a small leak in the third pumpout line where it connects to the
y-valve. Rather than trouble-shoot why sewage is in that line, I'myyynclined to simply remove it. I hate to see the manual bilge pump
complicated with y-valves, it would take some extraordinary
circumstances to make me want to run sewage through bilge pump lines
that aren't designed for it, and I can carry a spare macerator pump.

Has anyone been in circumstances where they found this setup valuable,
or where they wished they had this setup?

I don't think this is needed. I have an old boat whose holding tank
was not meant to be used. I yyo th ehead always goes to the holding
tank, and rigged my old bilge pump to exhaust the tank to the same
seacock that the Y-valve led to originally..

When I am offshore, I can pump the tank.y

Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a


"Be careful. The toe you stepped on yesterday may be connected to the ass you have to kiss today." --Former mayor Ciancia

Marc wrote:
2. I used Sealand barbless connectors everywhere.

Did you double clamp 'em all? If not, you need to.

6. Since the Sealand pump has one way valves and the thruhull is only
opened to discharge the tank, there is no high loop in the discharge
line.

That might raise the surveyor's eyebrow if you ever sell the boat or
have to have an insurance survey...but as long as you're religious about
keeping the seacock closed AND replace the duckbills annually (they open
up at about the same rate as any other joker valve), it shouldn't cause
you any problems. If it does, you can always add the loop.

Except for that minor criticism, I can only say well done!

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Marc wrote:
2. I used Sealand barbless connectors everywhere.

Did you double clamp 'em all? If not, you need to.

6. Since the Sealand pump has one way valves and the thruhull is only
opened to discharge the tank, there is no high loop in the discharge
line.

That might raise the surveyor's eyebrow if you ever sell the boat or
have to have an insurance survey...but as long as you're religious about
keeping the seacock closed AND replace the duckbills annually (they open
up at about the same rate as any other joker valve), it shouldn't cause
you any problems. If it does, you can always add the loop.

Except for that minor criticism, I can only say well done!

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Btw...I'd love see a photo of at least one of your cleanout tees, to see
how you did it. Email me at peg(dot)hall(at)sbcglobal(dot)net?

Peggie

Marc wrote:
I just finished a new holding tank installation. I have two
independent, top mounted lines to empty the tank. One to the deck pump
out and one to a Sealand T 12 Bellows pump. This pump is bullet proof
, easy to service and can run dry forever.

I made a couple of plumbing modifications to make servicing the system
easier.

1. where possible, I used PVC
2. I used Sealand barbless connectors everywhere.
3. All connections at the tank were made with cleanout tee's. Simply
remove the plug and push a rod down to clear any blockage. No need to
remove the hoses.
4. Put a tee and plug in front of the pump so antifreeze can be
introduced there instead of filling up the tank.
5. All hoses are pitched so there is no standing water in any hose.
6. Since the Sealand pump has one way valves and the thruhull is only
opened to discharge the tank, there is no high loop in the discharge
line.
7. Added a high loop to the toilet flush water line between the hand
pump and the bowl.






On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 00:59:07 GMT, Dick Locke
wrote:


I have what I think is overkill on my holding tank pumpout setup but I
want to check to see if anyone has experience saying it's a good idea.

The holding tank has three pumpout lines. One to the deck for the
shore-based vacuum pumpout, one to an electric macerator pump, and a
third that goes to the manual bilge pump via a y-valve. The manual
bilge pump can be directed to pump from the bilge or from the holding
tank.

I had a small leak in the third pumpout line where it connects to the
y-valve. Rather than trouble-shoot why sewage is in that line, I'm
inclined to simply remove it. I hate to see the manual bilge pump
complicated with y-valves, it would take some extraordinary
circumstances to make me want to run sewage through bilge pump lines
that aren't designed for it, and I can carry a spare macerator pump.

Has anyone been in circumstances where they found this setup valuable,
or where they wished they had this setup?




--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327