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#11
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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check valve
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote
I took a look at the WM site and found an example of a vented loop. Looks like it might fit, but I'm not sure where yet. It can either be within a foot or so, or it would have to be at least 3 feet away in the engine space. I'll have to check it out. The vent has to be above the discharge and waterline for there to be any point to it. "within a foot or so" would be OK if you just mean the lateral distance and not the hose length. The loop should be just as high in the boat as you can get it, ideally, just under the deck. If your bilge discharge is high enough above the waterline, you don't really need a vented loop except to keep surveyors happy. My bilge discharges are just ahead of the transom and nearly a foot above the water line so I haven't added vents to the lines which loop even higher under the cockpit coaming. It's something I'll probably do before going very far off shore though. If the boat was low in the water due to flooding and the pumps stopped, a back siphon could be created. -- Roger Long |
#12
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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check valve
"Roger Long" wrote in message ... "Jonathan Ganz" wrote I took a look at the WM site and found an example of a vented loop. Looks like it might fit, but I'm not sure where yet. It can either be within a foot or so, or it would have to be at least 3 feet away in the engine space. I'll have to check it out. The vent has to be above the discharge and waterline for there to be any point to it. "within a foot or so" would be OK if you just mean the lateral distance and not the hose length. The loop should be just as high in the boat as you can get it, ideally, just under the deck. If your bilge discharge is high enough above the waterline, you don't really need a vented loop except to keep surveyors happy. My bilge discharges are just ahead of the transom and nearly a foot above the water line so I haven't added vents to the lines which loop even higher under the cockpit coaming. It's something I'll probably do before going very far off shore though. If the boat was low in the water due to flooding and the pumps stopped, a back siphon could be created. -- Roger Long Good grief! More vented loop idiocy. STOP THE INSANITY!!!!!! You vented loop people are confused. Vented loops are a good thing in a sewage system so your toilet doesn't flood out of the bowl and fill up your boat. They are a safety device to break any possibility of a siphon on the intake side of a toilet. The intake side is necessarily placed under the LWL To put one on a bilge pump is folly - pure folly. In order to keep a bilge pump from siphoning all one needs do is have the bilge pump discharge above the LWL of the vessel. Place the discharge thru-hull about two feet up from the LWL and on the transom and you have ABSOLUTELY NO NEED for a vented loop. Duh! But, that idiot drug sponge Ganze will probably install one anyway since he has my wisdom kill filed. Somebody else please clue the loser in. Tarnal hell but you Rubes have no business anywhere near the water. Joe juniors all of you! Wilbur Hubbard |
#13
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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check valve
In article ,
Roger Long wrote: "Jonathan Ganz" wrote I took a look at the WM site and found an example of a vented loop. Looks like it might fit, but I'm not sure where yet. It can either be within a foot or so, or it would have to be at least 3 feet away in the engine space. I'll have to check it out. The vent has to be above the discharge and waterline for there to be any point to it. "within a foot or so" would be OK if you just mean the lateral distance and not the hose length. The loop should be just as high in the boat as you can get it, ideally, just under the deck. If your bilge discharge is high enough above the waterline, you don't really need a vented loop except to keep surveyors happy. My bilge discharges are just ahead of the transom and nearly a foot above the water line so I haven't added vents to the lines which loop even higher under the cockpit coaming. It's something I'll probably do before going very far off shore though. If the boat was low in the water due to flooding and the pumps stopped, a back siphon could be created. This is an area that I need to investigate. I was down at the boat and took some time to look at the situation that develops. It looks like there's enough back-pressure on the line that it ends up jamming the flapper against the body of the valve enough to cause it to jam (not every time, but often enough, obviously). When I get in there with a screwdriver and force it open, the water that's trapped comes shooting out with a fair amount of force. The discharge is well above the waterline - at least 18" or so, which would mean the loop (as you point out) would have to go higher. It's not a problem at the transom... plenty of room to do that via the stern laz. I definitely need to have something to prevent backflow. We typically get following seas, even coming back from someplace local. Come back through the the Gate, as I did last Sunday, and you definitely get a big following sea. I'm wondering if there'll be so much backflow that the pump will continue to cycle. What do you think about a vented loop near the transom as you suggest, plus a check valve near the pump? Seems like this would prevent the flooding/back siphon and give the pump a break. |
#14
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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check valve
"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote
To put one on a bilge pump is folly - pure folly. In order to keep a bilge pump from siphoning all one needs do is have the bilge pump discharge above the LWL of the vessel. I assume though, that he is looking for a solution that doesn't involve hauling the boat to relocate a through hull fitting. With a long hose run, a vented loop can cut the amount of back flow considerably if placed close to the pump. This makes for a less water in the bilge even if back flow cycling is not a problem. As far as keeping the discharge above the waterline, it has to be above the HEELED waterline. This means near the centerline, thus the stern, on any boat which is sailed hard which brings up the long hose run issue. The heeling problem might not be apparent on a 27 foot boat that just sits in one place but, if you really sail, a discharge near any probable bilge pump location could start a back siphon while driving hard if the pump goes on and stops. On a long tack, such as might be done on a passage, you could end up with a significant amount of water in the boat if the pump failed to restart. -- Roger Long |
#15
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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check valve
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote
The discharge is well above the waterline - at least 18" or so, But where longitudinally? It, or the top of the loop, has to be above the waterline when the boat is heeled to the deckedge. You many not sail that hard much, but you want the margin. If you are sailing that hard because of trying to get off a lee shore or being unable to make sail reductions, the last thing you need is some bilge flooding. I definitely need to have something to prevent backflow. We typically get following seas, even coming back from someplace local. Come back through the the Gate, as I did last Sunday, and you definitely get a big following sea. The amount of water a following sea will push back down the hose isn't likley to be significant. A plain loop up to deck level at the transom will take care of that. What do you think about a vented loop near the transom as you suggest, plus a check valve near the pump? Repeat after me, NO Check Valves, except in hose ends of hand bilge pumps to speed priming. They will always have enough crud in them to let the water flow back slowly and increase the chances of clogging in the other direction. Standard electric bilge pumps don't have enough pressure head to push crud through. They can barely clear air locks. Check first that you really have a back flow problem. Just replace the check valve with a nipple connector and run it. If it doesn't cycle when you shut it off, don't worry about it. It sounds like your discharge is in the transom, if so, just add enough hose to create a loop right there. I wouldn't worry about the siphon break for sailing around the bay. If you get in a situation where you are flooded enough to bring the static waterline down 18", you'll be on the radio anyway. The waves coming up astern are not going to push enough water into the hose to get over a high (unvented) loop and start a siphon. The water comes up the counter and actually immerses the bilge pump discharges on "Strider" at full power. I once flooded the bilges a bit and started the pumps to see if I could get a siphon going. Didn't happen. Flow past the openings at 6.5 knots makes it pretty hard for water to flow back into the hoses after the pumps shut off. -- Roger Long |
#16
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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check valve
In article ,
Roger Long wrote: "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote To put one on a bilge pump is folly - pure folly. In order to keep a bilge pump from siphoning all one needs do is have the bilge pump discharge above the LWL of the vessel. I assume though, that he is looking for a solution that doesn't involve hauling the boat to relocate a through hull fitting. You assume correctly. (Neal is just as ass.) See my other post if you haven't already. With a long hose run, a vented loop can cut the amount of back flow considerably if placed close to the pump. This makes for a less water in the bilge even if back flow cycling is not a problem. I have two choices about where to locate a loop. One is near the transom. The other is in the engine space, which is perhaps 3 feet from the pump. I'm inclined to think that the latter would make it much more difficult for the pump, having to overcome the height in short distance. The former solution might cause some backflow/pump cycling, but I can't know until I try it. It's certainly easier for the former solution. As far as keeping the discharge above the waterline, it has to be above the HEELED waterline. This means near the centerline, thus the stern, on any boat which is sailed hard which brings up the long hose run issue. The heeling problem might not be apparent on a 27 foot boat that just sits in one place but, if you really sail, a discharge near any probable bilge pump location could start a back siphon while driving hard if the pump goes on and stops. On a long tack, such as might be done on a passage, you could end up with a significant amount of water in the boat if the pump failed to restart. I would never try to discharge on the side. It's a stern discharge now, and it will remain that way. |
#17
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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check valve
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message easolutions... In article , Roger Long wrote: "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote To put one on a bilge pump is folly - pure folly. In order to keep a bilge pump from siphoning all one needs do is have the bilge pump discharge above the LWL of the vessel. I assume though, that he is looking for a solution that doesn't involve hauling the boat to relocate a through hull fitting. You assume correctly. (Neal is just as ass.) See my other post if you haven't already. Poor Ganz is soooo confused. Not only that, but he is a liar. For, he wrote the following in this very same thread: "The discharge is well above the waterline - at least 18" or so, which would mean the loop (as you point out) would have to go higher." I ask you how can 18" above the LWL under the water line? Besides, only an idiot would locate the discharge from a bilge pump below the waterline. Not even Ganz is that stupid. Please inform Ganz that he can't have it both ways. Duh. And they gave this guy a Captain's license? Crying shame. Wilbur Hubbard |
#18
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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check valve
In article ,
Roger Long wrote: "Jonathan Ganz" wrote The discharge is well above the waterline - at least 18" or so, But where longitudinally? It, or the top of the loop, has to be above the waterline when the boat is heeled to the deckedge. You many not sail that hard much, but you want the margin. If you are sailing that hard because of trying to get off a lee shore or being unable to make sail reductions, the last thing you need is some bilge flooding. It's about two feet (perhaps a bit more) off centerline. You can see it he http://picasaweb.google.com/SailNOW....45247473780210 And here from the port side: http://picasaweb.google.com/SailNOW....20053195620770 I definitely need to have something to prevent backflow. We typically get following seas, even coming back from someplace local. Come back through the the Gate, as I did last Sunday, and you definitely get a big following sea. The amount of water a following sea will push back down the hose isn't likley to be significant. A plain loop up to deck level at the transom will take care of that. If that's the case, then I should try it without the vent. What do you think about a vented loop near the transom as you suggest, plus a check valve near the pump? Repeat after me, NO Check Valves, except in hose ends of hand bilge pumps to speed priming. They will always have enough crud in them to let the water flow back slowly and increase the chances of clogging in the other direction. Standard electric bilge pumps don't have enough pressure head to push crud through. They can barely clear air locks. No Check Valves. Check first that you really have a back flow problem. Just replace the check valve with a nipple connector and run it. If it doesn't cycle when you shut it off, don't worry about it. Well, there is a considerable amount of pressure after I clear the current valve with a screwdriver. It sounds like your discharge is in the transom, if so, just add enough hose to create a loop right there. I wouldn't worry about the siphon break for sailing around the bay. If you get in a situation where you are flooded enough to bring the static waterline down 18", you'll be on the radio anyway. The waves coming up astern are not going to push enough water into the hose to get over a high (unvented) loop and start a siphon. I'll try it. I don't mind putting in a vented loop, however. Is there a significant down-side? I'm more concerned about the big following seas found just offshore. We were surfing a week ago. The water comes up the counter and actually immerses the bilge pump discharges on "Strider" at full power. I once flooded the bilges a bit and started the pumps to see if I could get a siphon going. Didn't happen. Flow past the openings at 6.5 knots makes it pretty hard for water to flow back into the hoses after the pumps shut off. Interesting.. |
#19
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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check valve
Here's another pic of the discharge. Not sure why I said it before, but the discharge is on the starboard side, not the port side. The port side is engine discharge. I must be dyslexic today.
http://picasaweb.google.com/SailNOW....20431152743042 |
#20
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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check valve
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ... Here's another pic of the discharge. Not sure why I said it before, but the discharge is on the starboard side, not the port side. The port side is engine discharge. I must be dyslexic today. Druglexic more like it. And not just today, everyday. -- Gregory Hall |
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