|
Ping..Peggy Hall
I have heard that you can clean the build up that occurs from sea
water flushing in the 1 1/2" discharge hoses from the heads using Acetic acid. Is this true? If so, what percentage acid would I use? Thanks |
Ping..Peggy Hall
Dave wrote:
On Tue, 13 May 2008 09:31:14 -0700 (PDT), said: I have heard that you can clean the build up that occurs from sea water flushing in the 1 1/2" discharge hoses from the heads using Acetic acid. Is this true? If so, what percentage acid would I use? Umm.....where in the grocery store do you suppose you might find acetic acid? Uhmmm...right *next* to the vinegar maybe? Keith Hughes |
Ping..Peggy Hall
Yes, acetic acid is white vinegar, but the stores only carry 5%
strength which seems to do little or nothing. |
Ping..Peggy Hall
wrote in message ... I have heard that you can clean the build up that occurs from sea water flushing in the 1 1/2" discharge hoses from the heads using Acetic acid. Is this true? If so, what percentage acid would I use? Thanks I am Greg Hall - Peggie's older, more intelligent brother. Peggie is indisposed for a week or so. She's healing well up after her recent successful face lift surgery. She's not getting any younger, ya know, and like many post-menopausal women, she's concerned with the rapid onset of the aging process after the sharply reduced estrogen output of her shutting down ovaries. She says don't use acetic acid. Acids in general are bad for your waste system. Acid attacks the rubber parts and acid wreaks havoc with the good bacteria in the holding tank(s) causing quite a reek. Peggie says a better solution would be to manipulate the flexible hoses manually while somebody else pumps the head. Flexing the hoses back and forth manually breaks the hard deposits loose from inside the hoses and the water passing through carries it away. Peggie tells me she likes squeezing hoses. ;-) P.S. My sister would appreciate if you spelled her name right. Thanks. -- Gregory Hall |
Ping..Peggy Hall
Gregery:
My apologies to Peggie! Hope she mends well and soon. I cannot imagine the strength required to "squeeze" or flex an 1 1/2" hose on my boat. The lengths are much too short. If there's a trick to it, please tell me or better yet come and demonstrate. |
Ping..Peggy Hall
|
Ping..Peggy Hall
So, Wilbur continues to spiral down to new lows as a human being.
He's an amazing guy. I be his mother would be proud. |
Ping..Peggy Hall
|
Ping..Peggy Hall
|
Ping..Peggy Hall
|
Ping..Peggy Hall
On Wed, 14 May 2008 07:54:43 +1000, Herodotus
wrote: and be sure to add the water to the acid and not the other way round. You have that backwards. Water is less dense, and can sit on top while the heat evolved boils the water and splatters the acid. Casady |
Ping..Peggy Hall
|
Ping..Peggy Hall
wrote:
I have heard that you can clean the build up that occurs from sea water flushing in the 1 1/2" discharge hoses from the heads using Acetic acid. Is this true? Yes, it's true. Distilled white vinegar will dissolve and then prevent future buildup of sea water minerals in pumps and hoses...not only in sanitations systems, but in all raw water intake lines. Use ONLY distilled white vinegar...it's a lot more acetic than cider or wine vinegars. Plus, it's distilled from alcohol...cider and wine vinegars are distilled from fruit juice, which can leave a sticky residue. If you have a serious buildup, you may want to use a 12% solutions of muriatic acid to clean it out...white vinegar will work, but it may require several applications, whereas muriatic acid will work a lot faster. Once you've cleaned out the system, a cupful--two at the most if the lines are longer than they should be--once a week, flushed ALL the way through the system (do NOT leave it sitting in the bowl!) once a week will prevent it. Distilled white vinegar is available in any supermarket. If it's not on the shelf with cider vinegar, it'll be in the cleaning supplies aisle...'cuz although distilled white vinegar has very limited application in foods, its primarily a cleaner. You might want to google "white vinegar" to see all the cleaning jobs it can do. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...35630&cat=1304 |
Ping..Peggy Hall
On Tue, 13 May 2008 20:20:37 -0500, Peggie Hall
wrote: Distilled white vinegar is available in any supermarket. If it's not on the shelf with cider vinegar, it'll be in the cleaning supplies aisle...'cuz although distilled white vinegar has very limited application in foods, its primarily a cleaner. You might want to google "white vinegar" to see all the cleaning jobs it can do. It will evaporate, leaving no residue on things like windows and mirrors, and it eats soap scum on shower walls. It's also cheap. The muratic acid mentioned will remove rust stains from plumbing fixtures, and vinegar won't. However hydrochloric [muratic] acid fumes are highly corrosive. Casady |
Ping..Peggy Hall
Peggie,
Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl? Steve PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday. "Peggie Hall" wrote in message t... wrote: I have heard that you can clean the build up that occurs from sea water flushing in the 1 1/2" discharge hoses from the heads using Acetic acid. Is this true? Yes, it's true. Distilled white vinegar will dissolve and then prevent future buildup of sea water minerals in pumps and hoses...not only in sanitations systems, but in all raw water intake lines. Use ONLY distilled white vinegar...it's a lot more acetic than cider or wine vinegars. Plus, it's distilled from alcohol...cider and wine vinegars are distilled from fruit juice, which can leave a sticky residue. If you have a serious buildup, you may want to use a 12% solutions of muriatic acid to clean it out...white vinegar will work, but it may require several applications, whereas muriatic acid will work a lot faster. Once you've cleaned out the system, a cupful--two at the most if the lines are longer than they should be--once a week, flushed ALL the way through the system (do NOT leave it sitting in the bowl!) once a week will prevent it. Distilled white vinegar is available in any supermarket. If it's not on the shelf with cider vinegar, it'll be in the cleaning supplies aisle...'cuz although distilled white vinegar has very limited application in foods, its primarily a cleaner. You might want to google "white vinegar" to see all the cleaning jobs it can do. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...35630&cat=1304 |
Ping..Peggy Hall
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie, Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl? Nope. Won't eat rubber either. In fact, owners and pros have used it for decades to clean sea water minerals out of raw water intake hoses and raw water engine cooling systems. The instructions for cleaning/descaling) the Lectra/San electrode pack also call for a 12% solution of muriatic (hydochloric) acid, flushed into the unit through the toilet. PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday. SS fittings in the sanitation system plumbing??? Not a good choice, 'cuz urine will corrode 'em. At least one trawler mfr who puts all fittings on the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank on the discharge (a great idea) used stainless fittings and pickup tubes--a VERY bad idea, 'cuz the tubes are corroding, even falling off in pieces inside the tank, in just a few years. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/ |
Ping..Peggy Hall
"Peggie Hall" wrote in message ... Steve Lusardi wrote: Peggie, Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl? Nope. Won't eat rubber either. In fact, owners and pros have used it for decades to clean sea water minerals out of raw water intake hoses and raw water engine cooling systems. The instructions for cleaning/descaling) the Lectra/San electrode pack also call for a 12% solution of muriatic (hydochloric) acid, flushed into the unit through the toilet. PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday. SS fittings in the sanitation system plumbing??? Not a good choice, 'cuz urine will corrode 'em. At least one trawler mfr who puts all fittings on the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank on the discharge (a great idea) used stainless fittings and pickup tubes--a VERY bad idea, 'cuz the tubes are corroding, even falling off in pieces inside the tank, in just a few years. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/ Peggy, Pardon the pun, but you really know your ****! hahahahaaa!!! Couldn't resist! {:0} |
Ping..Peggy Hall
Peggie,
The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which call for fire proof valves against your years of experience. My solution will be plastic valves at the plastic holding tanks in deference to your experience and 316L valves at the hull. This solution should satisfy both. Thanks for the Muriatic tip. It should have been obvious, but I did not consider scale build up as an issue. Steve "Peggie Hall" wrote in message ... Steve Lusardi wrote: Peggie, Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl? Nope. Won't eat rubber either. In fact, owners and pros have used it for decades to clean sea water minerals out of raw water intake hoses and raw water engine cooling systems. The instructions for cleaning/descaling) the Lectra/San electrode pack also call for a 12% solution of muriatic (hydochloric) acid, flushed into the unit through the toilet. PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday. SS fittings in the sanitation system plumbing??? Not a good choice, 'cuz urine will corrode 'em. At least one trawler mfr who puts all fittings on the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank on the discharge (a great idea) used stainless fittings and pickup tubes--a VERY bad idea, 'cuz the tubes are corroding, even falling off in pieces inside the tank, in just a few years. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/ |
Ping..Peggy Hall
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie, The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which call for fire proof valves against your years of experience. If you must use metal for your thru-hulls, use bronze. It's a lot more resistant to urine than SS...almost bullet proof. In fact, the best high-end manual marine toilets--Blake, W-C Skipper, Groco K etc--are bronze "thrones." -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/ |
Ping..Peggy Hall
Peggie,
As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to waste will be plastic. Steve "Peggie Hall" wrote in message ... Steve Lusardi wrote: Peggie, The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which call for fire proof valves against your years of experience. If you must use metal for your thru-hulls, use bronze. It's a lot more resistant to urine than SS...almost bullet proof. In fact, the best high-end manual marine toilets--Blake, W-C Skipper, Groco K etc--are bronze "thrones." -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/ |
Ping..Peggy Hall
Hokay...sometimes you just have make compromises, and this seems to be
one of those times. Peggie Steve Lusardi wrote: Peggie, As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to waste will be plastic. Steve "Peggie Hall" wrote in message ... Steve Lusardi wrote: Peggie, The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which call for fire proof valves against your years of experience. If you must use metal for your thru-hulls, use bronze. It's a lot more resistant to urine than SS...almost bullet proof. In fact, the best high-end manual marine toilets--Blake, W-C Skipper, Groco K etc--are bronze "thrones." -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/ -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/ |
Ping..Peggy Hall
"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Peggie, As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to waste will be plastic. Steve You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the consequences of bronze and steel mated together. Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some iron. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel Wilbur Hubbard |
Ping..Peggy Hall
On May 15, 6:35 pm, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote: "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Peggie, As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to waste will be plastic. Steve You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the consequences of bronze and steel mated together. Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some iron.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel Wilbur Hubbard I am just a little confused by your response here Oh, Great One...are you suggesting that he re-plate his hull with Monel.,..yea that is going to happen, or have custom seacock made of said material...they may be available..but not off the shelf at any chandelry that I know of. |
Ping..Peggy Hall
On Thu, 15 May 2008 20:45:52 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On May 15, 6:35 pm, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Peggie, As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to waste will be plastic. Steve You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the consequences of bronze and steel mated together. Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some iron.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel Wilbur Hubbard I am just a little confused by your response here Oh, Great One...are you suggesting that he re-plate his hull with Monel.,..yea that is going to happen, or have custom seacock made of said material...they may be available..but not off the shelf at any chandelry that I know of. Money is no object to Willie-boy. Nor is manners or good sense. Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom) |
Ping..Peggy Hall
On Thu, 15 May 2008 18:35:26 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote: You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? You say any. I think the female college Chemistry teachers would figure it out real fast. If you say there is a sex linked learning disability, I might buy that. Casady |
Ping..Peggy Hall
wrote in message ... On May 15, 6:35 pm, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Peggie, As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to waste will be plastic. Steve You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the consequences of bronze and steel mated together. Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some iron.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel Wilbur Hubbard I am just a little confused by your response here Oh, Great One...are you suggesting that he re-plate his hull with Monel.,..yea that is going to happen, or have custom seacock made of said material...they may be available..but not off the shelf at any chandelry that I know of. Monel, or cupro-nickel as it is generically termed, is widely available in the shipping industry. Surely thru-hulls are available made from this wonderful substance. And through hulls of 316 SS as the OP seems inclined to install are inferior to Monel. I've heard of at least one case where the entire hull of a sailboat was made from cupro-nickel. It will last a lifetime. And I've read that it has anti-fouling properties such that bottom paint isn't necessary. My next blue water cruiser will be made from this noble metal. But it's not light. So that will necessitate my next hull be in the 120-140 foot range. But, hey, I can afford the best! Wilbur Hubbard Swan 68 starter boat! |
Ping..Peggy Hall
"Richard Casady" wrote in message .. . On Thu, 15 May 2008 18:35:26 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? You say any. I think the female college Chemistry teachers would figure it out real fast. If you say there is a sex linked learning disability, I might buy that. Casady It's not that women are incapable of learning scientific things but rather it's that women tend to not be interested in them. Their brains are just wired differently from a man's brain. And, I have discovered in my long, eventful and highly educated life, that most women, even if they deal with technology, have a tendency to be unable or have difficulties applying what they know to the real world, mostly because such things don't interest them and/or are incompatible with their innate thought processes. Peggie's reply that you just have to compromise is typical of a woman's reply. You NEVER have to compromise if you are a man. You take the time to learn the facts, how to apply them and then you go with the BEST option. That is NOT compromise. Women go with their feelings because that's how they are wired. Men evolved being the free-rangers, the providers and the moving force of the family unit. Women evolved staying close to the cave or campsite. Their world involved raising their offspring and manipulating the small area in and around the camp. They were less often challenged with new decisions and were less often called upon to make life and death decisions based on facts because feelings and intuition don't work when confronted with a saber-tooth tiger, for example. That's why I am appalled when so many subscribers here seem to consider any woman an authority on the purview of men. I hope this helps. Wilbur Hubbard |
Ping..Peggy Hall
wrote in message ... On Fri, 16 May 2008 11:14:28 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: "Richard Casady" wrote in message ... On Thu, 15 May 2008 18:35:26 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? You say any. I think the female college Chemistry teachers would figure it out real fast. If you say there is a sex linked learning disability, I might buy that. Casady It's not that women are incapable of learning scientific things but rather it's that women tend to not be interested in them. Their brains are just wired differently from a man's brain. And, I have discovered in my long, eventful and highly educated life, that most women, even if they deal with technology, have a tendency to be unable or have difficulties applying what they know to the real world, mostly because such things don't interest them and/or are incompatible with their innate thought processes. Peggie's reply that you just have to compromise is typical of a woman's reply. You NEVER have to compromise if you are a man. You take the time to learn the facts, how to apply them and then you go with the BEST option. That is NOT compromise. The best option is almost ALWAYS a compromise. Only using all the options combined would not be a compromise. The very definition of the word "best" belies your illogic. Excelling all others is one definition of best. Something that excels all others is NOT a compromise by definition. If best were not at the top of the hierarchy you'd have a point but since it IS at the top you don't have a point. Liberalism failed you yet again. Liberalism teaches there are no absolutes. The existence of the word "best" defeats the erroneous idea that there are no absolutes. Try living in the real world! Become a conservative thinker. We know there are absolutes. Compromise is defined as settling differences by mutual concessions. You make NO concessions when you go with the best. Therefore the best is no compromise. You should have learned this basic logic in school but apparently you are a product of public education which hasn't taught you reality. It has just brainwashed you into being a liberal non-thinker. Wilbur Hubbard |
Ping..Peggy Hall
"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message ews.com... Peggie's reply that you just have to compromise is typical of a woman's reply. You NEVER have to compromise if you are a man. You take the time to learn the facts, how to apply them and then you go with the BEST option. That is NOT compromise. Women go with their feelings because that's how they are wired. Men evolved being the free-rangers, the providers and the moving force of the family unit. Women evolved staying close to the cave or campsite. Their world involved raising their offspring and manipulating the small area in and around the camp. They were less often challenged with new decisions and were less often called upon to make life and death decisions based on facts because feelings and intuition don't work when confronted with a saber-tooth tiger, for example. That's why I am appalled when so many subscribers here seem to consider any woman an authority on the purview of men. Your argument falls down because the question was about fixed sanitary installations and your supposed male free-rangers would not need these in the forest. Back in the cave or campsite, however, the need for such installations would soon become apparent to those who remained there 'manipulating' that small area. |
Ping..Peggy Hall
"Edgar" wrote in message ... "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message ews.com... Peggie's reply that you just have to compromise is typical of a woman's reply. You NEVER have to compromise if you are a man. You take the time to learn the facts, how to apply them and then you go with the BEST option. That is NOT compromise. Women go with their feelings because that's how they are wired. Men evolved being the free-rangers, the providers and the moving force of the family unit. Women evolved staying close to the cave or campsite. Their world involved raising their offspring and manipulating the small area in and around the camp. They were less often challenged with new decisions and were less often called upon to make life and death decisions based on facts because feelings and intuition don't work when confronted with a saber-tooth tiger, for example. That's why I am appalled when so many subscribers here seem to consider any woman an authority on the purview of men. Your argument falls down because the question was about fixed sanitary installations and your supposed male free-rangers would not need these in the forest. Back in the cave or campsite, however, the need for such installations would soon become apparent to those who remained there 'manipulating' that small area. Fixed sanitary systems in a moving yacht? Surely you jest. Can you say traveling sanitary systems? What does a stay-at-home cave Mom need with a traveling sanitary system? Sorry, Edgar, but you've gotta pay attention. The broad question was about sanitary systems but the specific topic concerned placing bronze thru hulls in a steel hull. Peggie advised doing so as a "compromise." The chap with the steel hull knew better because of the incompatibility of the metals in a salt water environment. In other words, the female view of a world traveled in a conveyance floating in salt water is beyond her capacity to conceptualize let alone understand even in a macro sense, let alone a micro sense concerning the various bits and pieces that make up the conveyance. Why develop an understanding for something you find extraneous? What use does a stay-at-home cave Mom have for conveyance in the first place. She does just fine on her own two hind legs gathering roots and herbs locally and later on her back in the cave servicing her hard working, hunting, man of the world's desires. Wilbur Hubbard |
Ping..Peggy Hall
"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message ews.com... snip... Why develop an understanding for something you find extraneous? What use does a stay-at-home cave Mom have for conveyance in the first place. She does just fine on her own two hind legs gathering roots and herbs locally and later on her back in the cave servicing her hard working, hunting, man of the world's desires. Wilbur Hubbard Oh oh! Sounds like another case of malaria picked up in that mosquito infested swamp, called home by the Capt & his derelic Coronado. |
Ping..Peggy Hall
Actually, I have, 316 is expensive, monel is outside of my budget and you
don't see them on eBay either. Steve "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message ews.com... "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Peggie, As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to waste will be plastic. Steve You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the consequences of bronze and steel mated together. Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some iron. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel Wilbur Hubbard |
Ping..Peggy Hall
Wilbur,
Compromises are made everyday by everybody simply because the best is rarely available all the time. Secondly, monel, copper-nickel-steel, cunifer, whatever you want to call these alloys are not without their own detriments. They are 1/2 ton heavier per cubic meter than stainless, they are much more expensive than SS, they have very poor strength to weight and very low fatigue resistance. The number one failure mode of parts made with these alloys is cracking, are you sure you would want a hull made of this stuff? That would be about as dumb as Cor-ten. Steve "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message ews.com... "Richard Casady" wrote in message .. . On Thu, 15 May 2008 18:35:26 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? You say any. I think the female college Chemistry teachers would figure it out real fast. If you say there is a sex linked learning disability, I might buy that. Casady It's not that women are incapable of learning scientific things but rather it's that women tend to not be interested in them. Their brains are just wired differently from a man's brain. And, I have discovered in my long, eventful and highly educated life, that most women, even if they deal with technology, have a tendency to be unable or have difficulties applying what they know to the real world, mostly because such things don't interest them and/or are incompatible with their innate thought processes. Peggie's reply that you just have to compromise is typical of a woman's reply. You NEVER have to compromise if you are a man. You take the time to learn the facts, how to apply them and then you go with the BEST option. That is NOT compromise. Women go with their feelings because that's how they are wired. Men evolved being the free-rangers, the providers and the moving force of the family unit. Women evolved staying close to the cave or campsite. Their world involved raising their offspring and manipulating the small area in and around the camp. They were less often challenged with new decisions and were less often called upon to make life and death decisions based on facts because feelings and intuition don't work when confronted with a saber-tooth tiger, for example. That's why I am appalled when so many subscribers here seem to consider any woman an authority on the purview of men. I hope this helps. Wilbur Hubbard |
Ping..Peggy Hall
On May 16, 11:03 am, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote: wrote in message ... On May 15, 6:35 pm, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Peggie, As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to waste will be plastic. Steve You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the consequences of bronze and steel mated together. Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some iron.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel Wilbur Hubbard I am just a little confused by your response here Oh, Great One...are you suggesting that he re-plate his hull with Monel.,..yea that is going to happen, or have custom seacock made of said material...they may be available..but not off the shelf at any chandelry that I know of. Monel, or cupro-nickel as it is generically termed, is widely available in the shipping industry. Surely thru-hulls are available made from this wonderful substance. And through hulls of 316 SS as the OP seems inclined to install are inferior to Monel. I've heard of at least one case where the entire hull of a sailboat was made from cupro-nickel. It will last a lifetime. And I've read that it has anti-fouling properties such that bottom paint isn't necessary. My next blue water cruiser will be made from this noble metal. But it's not light. So that will necessitate my next hull be in the 120-140 foot range. But, hey, I can afford the best! Wilbur Hubbard Swan 68 starter boat! My dear nattering nabob of negativity....a properly installed through hull should not come in contact with the hull anyway. It should be bedded in some waterproof caulking compound that will isolate the two, so electrolysis should not be a problem. |
Ping..Peggy Hall
wrote in message ... On May 16, 11:03 am, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: wrote in message ... On May 15, 6:35 pm, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Peggie, As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to waste will be plastic. Steve You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the consequences of bronze and steel mated together. Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some iron.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel Wilbur Hubbard I am just a little confused by your response here Oh, Great One...are you suggesting that he re-plate his hull with Monel.,..yea that is going to happen, or have custom seacock made of said material...they may be available..but not off the shelf at any chandelry that I know of. Monel, or cupro-nickel as it is generically termed, is widely available in the shipping industry. Surely thru-hulls are available made from this wonderful substance. And through hulls of 316 SS as the OP seems inclined to install are inferior to Monel. I've heard of at least one case where the entire hull of a sailboat was made from cupro-nickel. It will last a lifetime. And I've read that it has anti-fouling properties such that bottom paint isn't necessary. My next blue water cruiser will be made from this noble metal. But it's not light. So that will necessitate my next hull be in the 120-140 foot range. But, hey, I can afford the best! Wilbur Hubbard Swan 68 starter boat! My dear nattering nabob of negativity....a properly installed through hull should not come in contact with the hull anyway. It should be bedded in some waterproof caulking compound that will isolate the two, so electrolysis should not be a problem. Duh! A proper hull is bonded. That means wiring together all the thru hulls to a central ground. This also protects from lightning strikes. And what about copper bottom paint? Surely it will put the thru-hulls in electrical contact with the hull. Wilbur Hubbard |
Ping..Peggy Hall
In article
, " wrote: On May 16, 11:03 am, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: Wilbur Hubbard Swan 68 starter boat! ... nabob of negativity... LOL! Made oi Larf! -- Molesworth |
Ping..Peggy Hall
On Sat, 17 May 2008 06:41:58 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote: Wilbur, Compromises are made everyday by everybody simply because the best is rarely available all the time. Secondly, monel, copper-nickel-steel, cunifer, whatever you want to call these alloys are not without their own detriments. They are 1/2 ton heavier per cubic meter than stainless, they are much more expensive than SS, they have very poor strength to weight and very low fatigue resistance. The number one failure mode of parts made with these alloys is cracking, are you sure you would want a hull made of this stuff? That would be about as dumb as Cor-ten. Steve Steve, What is wrong with using Cor-Ten? I thought that this steel was the best in amarine application. Peter |
Ping..Peggy Hall
On Sun, 18 May 2008 03:54:05 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote: High copper content (which doesn't get alone well with salt), brittle, prone to cracking. There have been some successful hulls built out of it but it's at its best for things like dragger decks and ramps where paint won't stay on or masts where the paint won't develope chips and the slightly higher strength to weight ratio and stiffness is an advantage. It's pretty much fallen out of use for marine applications. I have a large sailboat out there with Corten masts that have held up well since the 80's but I probably wouldn't use it again. Thanks Roger. |
Ping..Peggy Hall
On Sun, 18 May 2008 03:54:05 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote: High copper content (which doesn't get alone well with salt), brittle, prone to cracking. There have been some successful hulls built out of it but it's at its best for things like dragger decks and ramps where paint won't stay on or masts where the paint won't develope chips and the slightly higher strength to weight ratio and stiffness is an advantage. It's pretty much fallen out of use for marine applications. I have a large sailboat out there with Corten masts that have held up well since the 80's but I probably wouldn't use it again. There is a fifty story office building in Des Moines covered with the stuff. Using it for siding uses none of the strength, but it won't crack. Did you paint your mast? Casady |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:49 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com