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Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for
under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? Any guesses? Thanks, Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Stephen, I would not worry too much what it will be worth in ten years. I f
you think it is worth the money now, go for it!! Who really cares what it is worth in ten years. "Stephen Trapani" wrote in message ... Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? Any guesses? Thanks, Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Stephen, I would not worry too much what it will be worth in ten years. I f
you think it is worth the money now, go for it!! Who really cares what it is worth in ten years. "Stephen Trapani" wrote in message ... Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? Any guesses? Thanks, Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Stephen Trapani wrote:
Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? I think the open market value for this boat may be less than you think. Has the boat been offered for sale, and if so, for how long and what offers has it attracted? It sounds like it's fairly well equipped, and an owner who outfits the boat with good gear probably does reasonable maintanence too (although this logic can lead one far astray). Do not overlook the sails, the standing rigging (which is due for it's third replacement) and the running rigging... these are high dollar items, and to replace all three will run more than your $7k. Getting a survey is a very good idea.... and a thorough sea trial. All that nce equipment is not worth much if it does not actually work (and you'd be shocked at how common that is). And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? First, you tell me what the rate of inflation will be over the next ten years. Any guesses? With an Atomic 4 engine, approximately zero. Not to sound a discouraging note, but please don't maim your finances to buy a 36 year old sailboat. You will put the purchase price into it again over the next few years, an have nothing to show for it but fun. My sincere advice would be to spend 10 ~ 25% less on a smaller boat that will be cheaper to keep & maintain, and will be 99% as much fun. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Stephen Trapani wrote:
Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? I think the open market value for this boat may be less than you think. Has the boat been offered for sale, and if so, for how long and what offers has it attracted? It sounds like it's fairly well equipped, and an owner who outfits the boat with good gear probably does reasonable maintanence too (although this logic can lead one far astray). Do not overlook the sails, the standing rigging (which is due for it's third replacement) and the running rigging... these are high dollar items, and to replace all three will run more than your $7k. Getting a survey is a very good idea.... and a thorough sea trial. All that nce equipment is not worth much if it does not actually work (and you'd be shocked at how common that is). And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? First, you tell me what the rate of inflation will be over the next ten years. Any guesses? With an Atomic 4 engine, approximately zero. Not to sound a discouraging note, but please don't maim your finances to buy a 36 year old sailboat. You will put the purchase price into it again over the next few years, an have nothing to show for it but fun. My sincere advice would be to spend 10 ~ 25% less on a smaller boat that will be cheaper to keep & maintain, and will be 99% as much fun. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
A quick look at Yachtworld.com says this is a good price if there is nothing
terribly wrong. Like sails or structural. I used to have a Newport 30, and they are fun and easy to sail. Good small cruiser for a week out or coastal cruising. Or PHRF racing. Very popular still on the West coast where they were built. DSK wrote: Stephen Trapani wrote: Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? I think the open market value for this boat may be less than you think. Has the boat been offered for sale, and if so, for how long and what offers has it attracted? It sounds like it's fairly well equipped, and an owner who outfits the boat with good gear probably does reasonable maintanence too (although this logic can lead one far astray). Do not overlook the sails, the standing rigging (which is due for it's third replacement) and the running rigging... these are high dollar items, and to replace all three will run more than your $7k. Getting a survey is a very good idea.... and a thorough sea trial. All that nce equipment is not worth much if it does not actually work (and you'd be shocked at how common that is). And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? First, you tell me what the rate of inflation will be over the next ten years. Any guesses? With an Atomic 4 engine, approximately zero. Not to sound a discouraging note, but please don't maim your finances to buy a 36 year old sailboat. You will put the purchase price into it again over the next few years, an have nothing to show for it but fun. My sincere advice would be to spend 10 ~ 25% less on a smaller boat that will be cheaper to keep & maintain, and will be 99% as much fun. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
A quick look at Yachtworld.com says this is a good price if there is nothing
terribly wrong. Like sails or structural. I used to have a Newport 30, and they are fun and easy to sail. Good small cruiser for a week out or coastal cruising. Or PHRF racing. Very popular still on the West coast where they were built. DSK wrote: Stephen Trapani wrote: Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? I think the open market value for this boat may be less than you think. Has the boat been offered for sale, and if so, for how long and what offers has it attracted? It sounds like it's fairly well equipped, and an owner who outfits the boat with good gear probably does reasonable maintanence too (although this logic can lead one far astray). Do not overlook the sails, the standing rigging (which is due for it's third replacement) and the running rigging... these are high dollar items, and to replace all three will run more than your $7k. Getting a survey is a very good idea.... and a thorough sea trial. All that nce equipment is not worth much if it does not actually work (and you'd be shocked at how common that is). And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? First, you tell me what the rate of inflation will be over the next ten years. Any guesses? With an Atomic 4 engine, approximately zero. Not to sound a discouraging note, but please don't maim your finances to buy a 36 year old sailboat. You will put the purchase price into it again over the next few years, an have nothing to show for it but fun. My sincere advice would be to spend 10 ~ 25% less on a smaller boat that will be cheaper to keep & maintain, and will be 99% as much fun. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Be REALLY SURE that you get an "out of the water" survey by a good
"buyers" surveyor, especially for a Newport. Look specifically for blisters. When I had my boat in the boatyard there was a guy next to me doing a bottom paint thing on his Newport 30. He found some blisters. For blister repair you grind them out with a disk until you get to "good" fiberglass. Then repair it. So he started grinding. On two blisters he had to grind all the way through the hull and enlarge them to a diameter about the size of a basketball before he found good glass. Under the gel coat there were big areas where the resin hadn't penetrated the glass when it was laid up. Apparently whoever did the lay-up when it was built either wasn't paying attention or had smoked too much dope that day. It cost this guy over $5,000 in fiberglass repairs before he was done. So be careful. Trent S/V Cimba [Islander 29'] Stephen Trapani wrote in message ... Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? Any guesses? Thanks, Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Be REALLY SURE that you get an "out of the water" survey by a good
"buyers" surveyor, especially for a Newport. Look specifically for blisters. When I had my boat in the boatyard there was a guy next to me doing a bottom paint thing on his Newport 30. He found some blisters. For blister repair you grind them out with a disk until you get to "good" fiberglass. Then repair it. So he started grinding. On two blisters he had to grind all the way through the hull and enlarge them to a diameter about the size of a basketball before he found good glass. Under the gel coat there were big areas where the resin hadn't penetrated the glass when it was laid up. Apparently whoever did the lay-up when it was built either wasn't paying attention or had smoked too much dope that day. It cost this guy over $5,000 in fiberglass repairs before he was done. So be careful. Trent S/V Cimba [Islander 29'] Stephen Trapani wrote in message ... Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? Any guesses? Thanks, Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Stephen Trapani wrote:
Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. ...snip... People always talk about This Company's boats are poorly built or That Company's boats are poorly built; but Newports are about the worst built boat I've run across. Check the hull/deck joint for a prime example of bad design exacerbated by cheap construction. On the good side, the underlying (hull) design is by C&C, so they sail pretty well. That's not to say that you shouldn't buy it to have fun with; but don't plan on it being safe for a blue-water-type experience. PHRF fun? Sure, if the survey is good. Good luck, Frank |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Stephen Trapani wrote:
Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. ...snip... People always talk about This Company's boats are poorly built or That Company's boats are poorly built; but Newports are about the worst built boat I've run across. Check the hull/deck joint for a prime example of bad design exacerbated by cheap construction. On the good side, the underlying (hull) design is by C&C, so they sail pretty well. That's not to say that you shouldn't buy it to have fun with; but don't plan on it being safe for a blue-water-type experience. PHRF fun? Sure, if the survey is good. Good luck, Frank |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Steve,
Just as a suggestion,,,,,,,, look for a boat built before 1972 or so. Back then they were much more heavily built and didn't use the "EPA" approved resins. The old resins were much stronger. Also, because fiberglass was new to the industry they weren't sure of how strong it would be. So they tended to overbuild their boats. As a result the early boats are generally "hell for stout". There's lots of these older boats around, and they can be had for less than the $7,000 asked for the Newport. In the 26' to 30' range there's the Pearsons [26' Ariel & 32' Vanguard], Columbia 29', Islander 29' & 32', Rawson 30', Alberg 30', etc. All of these boats are far superior to the Newport. And far safer in a seaway. As an example, my Islander 29' has been around the world once, including a Cape Horn passage. I paid $4,500 for it [no, it's not for sale!]. Trent S/V Cimba Stephen Trapani wrote in message ... Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? Any guesses? Thanks, Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Steve,
Just as a suggestion,,,,,,,, look for a boat built before 1972 or so. Back then they were much more heavily built and didn't use the "EPA" approved resins. The old resins were much stronger. Also, because fiberglass was new to the industry they weren't sure of how strong it would be. So they tended to overbuild their boats. As a result the early boats are generally "hell for stout". There's lots of these older boats around, and they can be had for less than the $7,000 asked for the Newport. In the 26' to 30' range there's the Pearsons [26' Ariel & 32' Vanguard], Columbia 29', Islander 29' & 32', Rawson 30', Alberg 30', etc. All of these boats are far superior to the Newport. And far safer in a seaway. As an example, my Islander 29' has been around the world once, including a Cape Horn passage. I paid $4,500 for it [no, it's not for sale!]. Trent S/V Cimba Stephen Trapani wrote in message ... Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? Any guesses? Thanks, Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
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Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
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Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Thanks to all for your replies. In case anyone is still interested in
helping further let me add: If all goes well, I'll never get out of Puget Sound with the boat I get, so perhaps seaworthiness is not the hugest concern? Crusing comfort for my family and liveaboardness for weekends/week at a time are my chief concerns, I guess (two boys seven and eight). Like, I think i want to get an inverter and a better heater than it has (solid fuel). I looked for all the boats recommended here by Trent and can find none of them for sale within 500 miles, in my price range. My sailing buddy specifically told me Newports were a better class of boat, was he whacked? I am more interested in being able to get my money back out of the boat in ten years or so when I move up in boats, if I put some elbow grease and upgrades into it. Pie in the sky dreaming with this boat? I went and looked at this '68 Newport yesterday and I like the roominess. It needs some cleaning, the deck needs painting. The Atomic 4 looks clean. Dodger with a few years left on it. I'll check the sails better during the sea trial/survey. I put down $635 and made an offer ($6350), contingent on survey and sea trial, so I can still get out of it. The nearest boat I found to it so far around here was a Buccaneer 30, and supposedly those have a real bad reputation. Thanks for any more advice! Stephen Trent D. Sanders wrote: Steve, Just as a suggestion,,,,,,,, look for a boat built before 1972 or so. Back then they were much more heavily built and didn't use the "EPA" approved resins. The old resins were much stronger. Also, because fiberglass was new to the industry they weren't sure of how strong it would be. So they tended to overbuild their boats. As a result the early boats are generally "hell for stout". There's lots of these older boats around, and they can be had for less than the $7,000 asked for the Newport. In the 26' to 30' range there's the Pearsons [26' Ariel & 32' Vanguard], Columbia 29', Islander 29' & 32', Rawson 30', Alberg 30', etc. All of these boats are far superior to the Newport. And far safer in a seaway. As an example, my Islander 29' has been around the world once, including a Cape Horn passage. I paid $4,500 for it [no, it's not for sale!]. Trent S/V Cimba Stephen Trapani wrote in message ... Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? Any guesses? Thanks, Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Thanks to all for your replies. In case anyone is still interested in
helping further let me add: If all goes well, I'll never get out of Puget Sound with the boat I get, so perhaps seaworthiness is not the hugest concern? Crusing comfort for my family and liveaboardness for weekends/week at a time are my chief concerns, I guess (two boys seven and eight). Like, I think i want to get an inverter and a better heater than it has (solid fuel). I looked for all the boats recommended here by Trent and can find none of them for sale within 500 miles, in my price range. My sailing buddy specifically told me Newports were a better class of boat, was he whacked? I am more interested in being able to get my money back out of the boat in ten years or so when I move up in boats, if I put some elbow grease and upgrades into it. Pie in the sky dreaming with this boat? I went and looked at this '68 Newport yesterday and I like the roominess. It needs some cleaning, the deck needs painting. The Atomic 4 looks clean. Dodger with a few years left on it. I'll check the sails better during the sea trial/survey. I put down $635 and made an offer ($6350), contingent on survey and sea trial, so I can still get out of it. The nearest boat I found to it so far around here was a Buccaneer 30, and supposedly those have a real bad reputation. Thanks for any more advice! Stephen Trent D. Sanders wrote: Steve, Just as a suggestion,,,,,,,, look for a boat built before 1972 or so. Back then they were much more heavily built and didn't use the "EPA" approved resins. The old resins were much stronger. Also, because fiberglass was new to the industry they weren't sure of how strong it would be. So they tended to overbuild their boats. As a result the early boats are generally "hell for stout". There's lots of these older boats around, and they can be had for less than the $7,000 asked for the Newport. In the 26' to 30' range there's the Pearsons [26' Ariel & 32' Vanguard], Columbia 29', Islander 29' & 32', Rawson 30', Alberg 30', etc. All of these boats are far superior to the Newport. And far safer in a seaway. As an example, my Islander 29' has been around the world once, including a Cape Horn passage. I paid $4,500 for it [no, it's not for sale!]. Trent S/V Cimba Stephen Trapani wrote in message ... Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? Any guesses? Thanks, Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Stephen Trapani wrote...
Thanks to all for your replies. In case anyone is still interested in helping further let me add: If all goes well, I'll never get out of Puget Sound with the boat I get, so perhaps seaworthiness is not the hugest concern? Crusing comfort for my family and liveaboardness for weekends/week at a time are my chief concerns, I guess (two boys seven and eight). Like, I think i want to get an inverter and a better heater than it has (solid fuel). I looked for all the boats recommended here by Trent and can find none of them for sale within 500 miles, in my price range. My sailing buddy specifically told me Newports were a better class of boat, was he whacked? I am more interested in being able to get my money back out of the boat in ten years or so when I move up in boats, if I put some elbow grease and upgrades into it. Pie in the sky dreaming with this boat? I went and looked at this '68 Newport yesterday and I like the roominess. It needs some cleaning, the deck needs painting. The Atomic 4 looks clean. Dodger with a few years left on it. I'll check the sails better during the sea trial/survey. I put down $635 and made an offer ($6350), contingent on survey and sea trial, so I can still get out of it. The nearest boat I found to it so far around here was a Buccaneer 30, and supposedly those have a real bad reputation. Thanks for any more advice! Stephen Hiya, Well, on the one hand, I generally disagree with Trent. I'm not a fan of heavy displacement "blue-water" (soi disant) boats, per se. Most of the boats he mentions are too heavy and slow for my taste. OTOH, I disagree with your friend about Newports. As I said in my post, they are the worst-built production boats I've ever run across. They make Catalina look like Nautor-Swan. If you buy it, definitely double check that hull/deck joint. Like I also said, the design is by C&C; so they do sail pretty well. On the third hand, Buccaneer makes Newport look like Nautor-Swan. I'd say, please don't buy the Bucaneer under any circumstances. I crewed foredeck on a Newport 28 racing in the Puget Sound area back in the early 80s and we did race that thing hard. We never managed to sink it; so you'd probably do just fine cruising the Puget Sound area in a Newport 30. I wouldn't really plan on "getting my money out of it" after upgrades, which cost a lot but don't do much to increase the "value" of your boat. It's a nasty cheap boat and will continue to depreciate significantly, IMHO. But, since you're getting it for a pretty good price, I'd be willing to admit that you shouldn't lose too much on a future sale. I haven't checked prices in your interest range lately. Howzabout a Ranger or a San Juan? Lots of them around the Puget Sound region. Good luck, Frank |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Stephen Trapani wrote...
Thanks to all for your replies. In case anyone is still interested in helping further let me add: If all goes well, I'll never get out of Puget Sound with the boat I get, so perhaps seaworthiness is not the hugest concern? Crusing comfort for my family and liveaboardness for weekends/week at a time are my chief concerns, I guess (two boys seven and eight). Like, I think i want to get an inverter and a better heater than it has (solid fuel). I looked for all the boats recommended here by Trent and can find none of them for sale within 500 miles, in my price range. My sailing buddy specifically told me Newports were a better class of boat, was he whacked? I am more interested in being able to get my money back out of the boat in ten years or so when I move up in boats, if I put some elbow grease and upgrades into it. Pie in the sky dreaming with this boat? I went and looked at this '68 Newport yesterday and I like the roominess. It needs some cleaning, the deck needs painting. The Atomic 4 looks clean. Dodger with a few years left on it. I'll check the sails better during the sea trial/survey. I put down $635 and made an offer ($6350), contingent on survey and sea trial, so I can still get out of it. The nearest boat I found to it so far around here was a Buccaneer 30, and supposedly those have a real bad reputation. Thanks for any more advice! Stephen Hiya, Well, on the one hand, I generally disagree with Trent. I'm not a fan of heavy displacement "blue-water" (soi disant) boats, per se. Most of the boats he mentions are too heavy and slow for my taste. OTOH, I disagree with your friend about Newports. As I said in my post, they are the worst-built production boats I've ever run across. They make Catalina look like Nautor-Swan. If you buy it, definitely double check that hull/deck joint. Like I also said, the design is by C&C; so they do sail pretty well. On the third hand, Buccaneer makes Newport look like Nautor-Swan. I'd say, please don't buy the Bucaneer under any circumstances. I crewed foredeck on a Newport 28 racing in the Puget Sound area back in the early 80s and we did race that thing hard. We never managed to sink it; so you'd probably do just fine cruising the Puget Sound area in a Newport 30. I wouldn't really plan on "getting my money out of it" after upgrades, which cost a lot but don't do much to increase the "value" of your boat. It's a nasty cheap boat and will continue to depreciate significantly, IMHO. But, since you're getting it for a pretty good price, I'd be willing to admit that you shouldn't lose too much on a future sale. I haven't checked prices in your interest range lately. Howzabout a Ranger or a San Juan? Lots of them around the Puget Sound region. Good luck, Frank |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Stephen Trapani wrote:
a Buccaneer Good lord! Don't touch one of those even if they pay you to take it. |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Stephen Trapani wrote:
a Buccaneer Good lord! Don't touch one of those even if they pay you to take it. |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Frank Maier wrote:
Stephen Trapani wrote... Thanks to all for your replies. In case anyone is still interested in helping further let me add: If all goes well, I'll never get out of Puget Sound with the boat I get, so perhaps seaworthiness is not the hugest concern? Crusing comfort for my family and liveaboardness for weekends/week at a time are my chief concerns, I guess (two boys seven and eight). Like, I think i want to get an inverter and a better heater than it has (solid fuel). I looked for all the boats recommended here by Trent and can find none of them for sale within 500 miles, in my price range. My sailing buddy specifically told me Newports were a better class of boat, was he whacked? I am more interested in being able to get my money back out of the boat in ten years or so when I move up in boats, if I put some elbow grease and upgrades into it. Pie in the sky dreaming with this boat? I went and looked at this '68 Newport yesterday and I like the roominess. It needs some cleaning, the deck needs painting. The Atomic 4 looks clean. Dodger with a few years left on it. I'll check the sails better during the sea trial/survey. I put down $635 and made an offer ($6350), contingent on survey and sea trial, so I can still get out of it. The nearest boat I found to it so far around here was a Buccaneer 30, and supposedly those have a real bad reputation. Thanks for any more advice! Stephen Hiya, Well, on the one hand, I generally disagree with Trent. I'm not a fan of heavy displacement "blue-water" (soi disant) boats, per se. Most of the boats he mentions are too heavy and slow for my taste. OTOH, I disagree with your friend about Newports. As I said in my post, they are the worst-built production boats I've ever run across. They make Catalina look like Nautor-Swan. If you buy it, definitely double check that hull/deck joint. Like I also said, the design is by C&C; so they do sail pretty well. On the third hand, Buccaneer makes Newport look like Nautor-Swan. I'd say, please don't buy the Bucaneer under any circumstances. I crewed foredeck on a Newport 28 racing in the Puget Sound area back in the early 80s and we did race that thing hard. We never managed to sink it; so you'd probably do just fine cruising the Puget Sound area in a Newport 30. I wouldn't really plan on "getting my money out of it" after upgrades, which cost a lot but don't do much to increase the "value" of your boat. It's a nasty cheap boat and will continue to depreciate significantly, IMHO. But, since you're getting it for a pretty good price, I'd be willing to admit that you shouldn't lose too much on a future sale. I haven't checked prices in your interest range lately. Howzabout a Ranger or a San Juan? Lots of them around the Puget Sound region. Good luck, Hey, thanks alot, again. Another friend of mine has been telling me about a salvaged San Juan 26 I should look at, so I'll do that. And I'll check the seam between the hull and the deck on the Newport. Come to think of it there was a leak below on the rear quarterberth when I looked at it. Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Frank Maier wrote:
Stephen Trapani wrote... Thanks to all for your replies. In case anyone is still interested in helping further let me add: If all goes well, I'll never get out of Puget Sound with the boat I get, so perhaps seaworthiness is not the hugest concern? Crusing comfort for my family and liveaboardness for weekends/week at a time are my chief concerns, I guess (two boys seven and eight). Like, I think i want to get an inverter and a better heater than it has (solid fuel). I looked for all the boats recommended here by Trent and can find none of them for sale within 500 miles, in my price range. My sailing buddy specifically told me Newports were a better class of boat, was he whacked? I am more interested in being able to get my money back out of the boat in ten years or so when I move up in boats, if I put some elbow grease and upgrades into it. Pie in the sky dreaming with this boat? I went and looked at this '68 Newport yesterday and I like the roominess. It needs some cleaning, the deck needs painting. The Atomic 4 looks clean. Dodger with a few years left on it. I'll check the sails better during the sea trial/survey. I put down $635 and made an offer ($6350), contingent on survey and sea trial, so I can still get out of it. The nearest boat I found to it so far around here was a Buccaneer 30, and supposedly those have a real bad reputation. Thanks for any more advice! Stephen Hiya, Well, on the one hand, I generally disagree with Trent. I'm not a fan of heavy displacement "blue-water" (soi disant) boats, per se. Most of the boats he mentions are too heavy and slow for my taste. OTOH, I disagree with your friend about Newports. As I said in my post, they are the worst-built production boats I've ever run across. They make Catalina look like Nautor-Swan. If you buy it, definitely double check that hull/deck joint. Like I also said, the design is by C&C; so they do sail pretty well. On the third hand, Buccaneer makes Newport look like Nautor-Swan. I'd say, please don't buy the Bucaneer under any circumstances. I crewed foredeck on a Newport 28 racing in the Puget Sound area back in the early 80s and we did race that thing hard. We never managed to sink it; so you'd probably do just fine cruising the Puget Sound area in a Newport 30. I wouldn't really plan on "getting my money out of it" after upgrades, which cost a lot but don't do much to increase the "value" of your boat. It's a nasty cheap boat and will continue to depreciate significantly, IMHO. But, since you're getting it for a pretty good price, I'd be willing to admit that you shouldn't lose too much on a future sale. I haven't checked prices in your interest range lately. Howzabout a Ranger or a San Juan? Lots of them around the Puget Sound region. Good luck, Hey, thanks alot, again. Another friend of mine has been telling me about a salvaged San Juan 26 I should look at, so I'll do that. And I'll check the seam between the hull and the deck on the Newport. Come to think of it there was a leak below on the rear quarterberth when I looked at it. Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Old boats usually cost you about 25-35% over initial cost within 2 to 3
years - one way or another. Nothing wrong with that. You "catch up" with a smaller boat lots quicker than with a larger one, and since you're still almost in the "small" category, you should be pretty much OK if you shop around and get a survey. I concur with those that have said it doesn't make much sense to worry about resale way down the road. If you're stuck on resale, some of the older, heavier, known boats like Pearsons 28's will probably hold value longer. And any boat that looks like a 17 year old prom queen when you sell it will hold its value. So it either doesn't matter, or it's up to you. Newports are light weight boats, sail well (I've raced on them). Leaks (from top down) can be a problem; the windows can _really_ leak (lived on one for 6 months). I believe the Newport 30 may be one of the early boats with the hull cored above the water and the decks cored. This makes the boat light, quiet, insulated and strong, but spells some potentially _bad_ problems if the core has got wet and rotted over a period of time. They had a steering wheel option, but IMHO, that's like putting a 6'console TV in a 10x12 room - not good. But this is all stuff a good surveyor will find out, so here's my standard surveyor plug: Spend lots of time talking to all the dock side detritus (owners, harbor personel, anybody that you see actually working on a boat) that will speak to you. Do this repeatedly at every dock and yacht club within 50 miles or so. You'll find some good boat deals, too. Try to find out what surveyor names come up again and again, and go talk with a couple of them. Some will do a "mini survey" to qualify a boat before going further. It's like lawyers and auto mechanics - they cost too much money and the good ones can save you 50 times that amount, easily; the bad ones are less than worthless. Do a search on "Pasco boat survey". He has a great website about surveying; must read. "Insurance surveys" usually aren't worth much. The better boat you can buy, the cheaper it will be in the long run. You try to buy the best you can while budgeting against the sure knowledge that it'll cost you significantly a short way down the road. Thus it _may_ make sense to reduce the grand plan down to a just good plan and get a 22 foot day sailor in excellent shape with just the basics. Such a boat will sell again easily within a year or two and it will make the whole operation less daunting. 80% return for 20% (well, 50%? G) the cost. For example, if you have a fleet of J24s racing near you and can find one somewhere that was only sailed by a grandmother, that's your boat. Generally speaking basics in hull, rig, engine, plumbing, and electrics (as opposed to electronics) will return value while fancy racing rigs, electronics, spotlights, stereos, refrigerators (they never work) don't hold money. Small amouonts of old wood can be finished pretty relatively easily, cushions cost a small fortune unless your wife sews (they may still cost _you_ g). Running rigging is easy to replace, if it's still all there; standing rigging is a project, no matter how you cut it. If an engine runs sort of OK (get an _engine_ survey) leave it alone - you're not crossing an ocean. If it doesn't, costs start at $1000 and end somewhere about $20k. Some boats (up to about 30') can take an outboard off the stern; you don't need much power, 15-20 hp is way plenty, 10hp will do fine, but you need a _longshaft_ motor geared for slow running. If you find an otherwise fine boat with a bad engine, this may be an option (depending on selling price). But ask the surveyor whether this type of boat works OK with an outboard. Besides the cost of the outboard, it will cost to install it - get quotes. You can pull the old engine yourself and get another "room" down there. The Pardeys put a hottub in their 30' boat under the companion step where the engine was not. You said you've sailed in the past, but it might be a good idea to pick up some rides as "rail meat" with the local racing boats and get your hand back in before you scare the living bejeesus out of your family. You can postpone the final big buy by bringing them along to look at select boats and otherwise getting them involved. Might get some good input, too. Save your bippy down the road when the wife wants to know why you didn't get one with an oven and air conditioning... Welcom back to boats. g Best luck. Rufus |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Old boats usually cost you about 25-35% over initial cost within 2 to 3
years - one way or another. Nothing wrong with that. You "catch up" with a smaller boat lots quicker than with a larger one, and since you're still almost in the "small" category, you should be pretty much OK if you shop around and get a survey. I concur with those that have said it doesn't make much sense to worry about resale way down the road. If you're stuck on resale, some of the older, heavier, known boats like Pearsons 28's will probably hold value longer. And any boat that looks like a 17 year old prom queen when you sell it will hold its value. So it either doesn't matter, or it's up to you. Newports are light weight boats, sail well (I've raced on them). Leaks (from top down) can be a problem; the windows can _really_ leak (lived on one for 6 months). I believe the Newport 30 may be one of the early boats with the hull cored above the water and the decks cored. This makes the boat light, quiet, insulated and strong, but spells some potentially _bad_ problems if the core has got wet and rotted over a period of time. They had a steering wheel option, but IMHO, that's like putting a 6'console TV in a 10x12 room - not good. But this is all stuff a good surveyor will find out, so here's my standard surveyor plug: Spend lots of time talking to all the dock side detritus (owners, harbor personel, anybody that you see actually working on a boat) that will speak to you. Do this repeatedly at every dock and yacht club within 50 miles or so. You'll find some good boat deals, too. Try to find out what surveyor names come up again and again, and go talk with a couple of them. Some will do a "mini survey" to qualify a boat before going further. It's like lawyers and auto mechanics - they cost too much money and the good ones can save you 50 times that amount, easily; the bad ones are less than worthless. Do a search on "Pasco boat survey". He has a great website about surveying; must read. "Insurance surveys" usually aren't worth much. The better boat you can buy, the cheaper it will be in the long run. You try to buy the best you can while budgeting against the sure knowledge that it'll cost you significantly a short way down the road. Thus it _may_ make sense to reduce the grand plan down to a just good plan and get a 22 foot day sailor in excellent shape with just the basics. Such a boat will sell again easily within a year or two and it will make the whole operation less daunting. 80% return for 20% (well, 50%? G) the cost. For example, if you have a fleet of J24s racing near you and can find one somewhere that was only sailed by a grandmother, that's your boat. Generally speaking basics in hull, rig, engine, plumbing, and electrics (as opposed to electronics) will return value while fancy racing rigs, electronics, spotlights, stereos, refrigerators (they never work) don't hold money. Small amouonts of old wood can be finished pretty relatively easily, cushions cost a small fortune unless your wife sews (they may still cost _you_ g). Running rigging is easy to replace, if it's still all there; standing rigging is a project, no matter how you cut it. If an engine runs sort of OK (get an _engine_ survey) leave it alone - you're not crossing an ocean. If it doesn't, costs start at $1000 and end somewhere about $20k. Some boats (up to about 30') can take an outboard off the stern; you don't need much power, 15-20 hp is way plenty, 10hp will do fine, but you need a _longshaft_ motor geared for slow running. If you find an otherwise fine boat with a bad engine, this may be an option (depending on selling price). But ask the surveyor whether this type of boat works OK with an outboard. Besides the cost of the outboard, it will cost to install it - get quotes. You can pull the old engine yourself and get another "room" down there. The Pardeys put a hottub in their 30' boat under the companion step where the engine was not. You said you've sailed in the past, but it might be a good idea to pick up some rides as "rail meat" with the local racing boats and get your hand back in before you scare the living bejeesus out of your family. You can postpone the final big buy by bringing them along to look at select boats and otherwise getting them involved. Might get some good input, too. Save your bippy down the road when the wife wants to know why you didn't get one with an oven and air conditioning... Welcom back to boats. g Best luck. Rufus |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
I do not think that Newports were especially bad with respect to blistering,
though not particularly good, either. Probably about on a par with Catalinas. The fact that it is a '68 could mean that it would tend to have *less* problems with blisters (as is sometimes the case with boats of this vintage), though that is by no means certain. As others have suggested, getting a good survey is critical. Obviously you would check what you would look at for any boat, such as soft spots on the deck, keel attachment, etc. etc. --Alan Gomes "Trent D. Sanders" wrote in message m... Be REALLY SURE that you get an "out of the water" survey by a good "buyers" surveyor, especially for a Newport. Look specifically for blisters. When I had my boat in the boatyard there was a guy next to me doing a bottom paint thing on his Newport 30. He found some blisters. For blister repair you grind them out with a disk until you get to "good" fiberglass. Then repair it. So he started grinding. On two blisters he had to grind all the way through the hull and enlarge them to a diameter about the size of a basketball before he found good glass. Under the gel coat there were big areas where the resin hadn't penetrated the glass when it was laid up. Apparently whoever did the lay-up when it was built either wasn't paying attention or had smoked too much dope that day. It cost this guy over $5,000 in fiberglass repairs before he was done. So be careful. Trent S/V Cimba [Islander 29'] Stephen Trapani wrote in message ... Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? Any guesses? Thanks, Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
I do not think that Newports were especially bad with respect to blistering,
though not particularly good, either. Probably about on a par with Catalinas. The fact that it is a '68 could mean that it would tend to have *less* problems with blisters (as is sometimes the case with boats of this vintage), though that is by no means certain. As others have suggested, getting a good survey is critical. Obviously you would check what you would look at for any boat, such as soft spots on the deck, keel attachment, etc. etc. --Alan Gomes "Trent D. Sanders" wrote in message m... Be REALLY SURE that you get an "out of the water" survey by a good "buyers" surveyor, especially for a Newport. Look specifically for blisters. When I had my boat in the boatyard there was a guy next to me doing a bottom paint thing on his Newport 30. He found some blisters. For blister repair you grind them out with a disk until you get to "good" fiberglass. Then repair it. So he started grinding. On two blisters he had to grind all the way through the hull and enlarge them to a diameter about the size of a basketball before he found good glass. Under the gel coat there were big areas where the resin hadn't penetrated the glass when it was laid up. Apparently whoever did the lay-up when it was built either wasn't paying attention or had smoked too much dope that day. It cost this guy over $5,000 in fiberglass repairs before he was done. So be careful. Trent S/V Cimba [Islander 29'] Stephen Trapani wrote in message ... Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. I grew up sailing my dad's Blanchard 33' in Kaneohe Bay, and between the HI islands, so I can sail, probably rusty, but anyway, assuming I get a survey and nothing terrible is wrong, the Atomic 4 is recently rebuilt, tiller, Autohelm, decent electronics, shore power, a few other things, any particular big reason I shouldn't buy it? And, oh yeah, I don't have much more than that to spend. What do you think the boat will be worth in ten years? Any guesses? Thanks, Stephen |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Wasn't the Newport 30 a Gary Mull design? I could be wrong but that's how I
remember it. I had a Newport 27, which was a C&C design. Good sailing little boat. I would not say that the build quality was worse than a Catalina 27. --Alan Gomes "Frank Maier" wrote in message om... Stephen Trapani wrote: Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. ...snip... People always talk about This Company's boats are poorly built or That Company's boats are poorly built; but Newports are about the worst built boat I've run across. Check the hull/deck joint for a prime example of bad design exacerbated by cheap construction. On the good side, the underlying (hull) design is by C&C, so they sail pretty well. That's not to say that you shouldn't buy it to have fun with; but don't plan on it being safe for a blue-water-type experience. PHRF fun? Sure, if the survey is good. Good luck, Frank |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
Wasn't the Newport 30 a Gary Mull design? I could be wrong but that's how I
remember it. I had a Newport 27, which was a C&C design. Good sailing little boat. I would not say that the build quality was worse than a Catalina 27. --Alan Gomes "Frank Maier" wrote in message om... Stephen Trapani wrote: Hi, sorry to just drop in, but I think I can get a 1968 Newport 30' for under $7000. ...snip... People always talk about This Company's boats are poorly built or That Company's boats are poorly built; but Newports are about the worst built boat I've run across. Check the hull/deck joint for a prime example of bad design exacerbated by cheap construction. On the good side, the underlying (hull) design is by C&C, so they sail pretty well. That's not to say that you shouldn't buy it to have fun with; but don't plan on it being safe for a blue-water-type experience. PHRF fun? Sure, if the survey is good. Good luck, Frank |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
I seriously doubt that the early Newport 30's (or any of them) had cored
hulls, above the waterline or otherwise. --Alan Gomes "Rufus Laggren" wrote in message news:MOx3c.224694$uV3.946176@attbi_s51... Old boats usually cost you about 25-35% over initial cost within 2 to 3 years - one way or another. Nothing wrong with that. You "catch up" with a smaller boat lots quicker than with a larger one, and since you're still almost in the "small" category, you should be pretty much OK if you shop around and get a survey. I concur with those that have said it doesn't make much sense to worry about resale way down the road. If you're stuck on resale, some of the older, heavier, known boats like Pearsons 28's will probably hold value longer. And any boat that looks like a 17 year old prom queen when you sell it will hold its value. So it either doesn't matter, or it's up to you. Newports are light weight boats, sail well (I've raced on them). Leaks (from top down) can be a problem; the windows can _really_ leak (lived on one for 6 months). I believe the Newport 30 may be one of the early boats with the hull cored above the water and the decks cored. This makes the boat light, quiet, insulated and strong, but spells some potentially _bad_ problems if the core has got wet and rotted over a period of time. They had a steering wheel option, but IMHO, that's like putting a 6'console TV in a 10x12 room - not good. But this is all stuff a good surveyor will find out, so here's my standard surveyor plug: Spend lots of time talking to all the dock side detritus (owners, harbor personel, anybody that you see actually working on a boat) that will speak to you. Do this repeatedly at every dock and yacht club within 50 miles or so. You'll find some good boat deals, too. Try to find out what surveyor names come up again and again, and go talk with a couple of them. Some will do a "mini survey" to qualify a boat before going further. It's like lawyers and auto mechanics - they cost too much money and the good ones can save you 50 times that amount, easily; the bad ones are less than worthless. Do a search on "Pasco boat survey". He has a great website about surveying; must read. "Insurance surveys" usually aren't worth much. The better boat you can buy, the cheaper it will be in the long run. You try to buy the best you can while budgeting against the sure knowledge that it'll cost you significantly a short way down the road. Thus it _may_ make sense to reduce the grand plan down to a just good plan and get a 22 foot day sailor in excellent shape with just the basics. Such a boat will sell again easily within a year or two and it will make the whole operation less daunting. 80% return for 20% (well, 50%? G) the cost. For example, if you have a fleet of J24s racing near you and can find one somewhere that was only sailed by a grandmother, that's your boat. Generally speaking basics in hull, rig, engine, plumbing, and electrics (as opposed to electronics) will return value while fancy racing rigs, electronics, spotlights, stereos, refrigerators (they never work) don't hold money. Small amouonts of old wood can be finished pretty relatively easily, cushions cost a small fortune unless your wife sews (they may still cost _you_ g). Running rigging is easy to replace, if it's still all there; standing rigging is a project, no matter how you cut it. If an engine runs sort of OK (get an _engine_ survey) leave it alone - you're not crossing an ocean. If it doesn't, costs start at $1000 and end somewhere about $20k. Some boats (up to about 30') can take an outboard off the stern; you don't need much power, 15-20 hp is way plenty, 10hp will do fine, but you need a _longshaft_ motor geared for slow running. If you find an otherwise fine boat with a bad engine, this may be an option (depending on selling price). But ask the surveyor whether this type of boat works OK with an outboard. Besides the cost of the outboard, it will cost to install it - get quotes. You can pull the old engine yourself and get another "room" down there. The Pardeys put a hottub in their 30' boat under the companion step where the engine was not. You said you've sailed in the past, but it might be a good idea to pick up some rides as "rail meat" with the local racing boats and get your hand back in before you scare the living bejeesus out of your family. You can postpone the final big buy by bringing them along to look at select boats and otherwise getting them involved. Might get some good input, too. Save your bippy down the road when the wife wants to know why you didn't get one with an oven and air conditioning... Welcom back to boats. g Best luck. Rufus |
Advice about '68 Newport 30'?
I seriously doubt that the early Newport 30's (or any of them) had cored
hulls, above the waterline or otherwise. --Alan Gomes "Rufus Laggren" wrote in message news:MOx3c.224694$uV3.946176@attbi_s51... Old boats usually cost you about 25-35% over initial cost within 2 to 3 years - one way or another. Nothing wrong with that. You "catch up" with a smaller boat lots quicker than with a larger one, and since you're still almost in the "small" category, you should be pretty much OK if you shop around and get a survey. I concur with those that have said it doesn't make much sense to worry about resale way down the road. If you're stuck on resale, some of the older, heavier, known boats like Pearsons 28's will probably hold value longer. And any boat that looks like a 17 year old prom queen when you sell it will hold its value. So it either doesn't matter, or it's up to you. Newports are light weight boats, sail well (I've raced on them). Leaks (from top down) can be a problem; the windows can _really_ leak (lived on one for 6 months). I believe the Newport 30 may be one of the early boats with the hull cored above the water and the decks cored. This makes the boat light, quiet, insulated and strong, but spells some potentially _bad_ problems if the core has got wet and rotted over a period of time. They had a steering wheel option, but IMHO, that's like putting a 6'console TV in a 10x12 room - not good. But this is all stuff a good surveyor will find out, so here's my standard surveyor plug: Spend lots of time talking to all the dock side detritus (owners, harbor personel, anybody that you see actually working on a boat) that will speak to you. Do this repeatedly at every dock and yacht club within 50 miles or so. You'll find some good boat deals, too. Try to find out what surveyor names come up again and again, and go talk with a couple of them. Some will do a "mini survey" to qualify a boat before going further. It's like lawyers and auto mechanics - they cost too much money and the good ones can save you 50 times that amount, easily; the bad ones are less than worthless. Do a search on "Pasco boat survey". He has a great website about surveying; must read. "Insurance surveys" usually aren't worth much. The better boat you can buy, the cheaper it will be in the long run. You try to buy the best you can while budgeting against the sure knowledge that it'll cost you significantly a short way down the road. Thus it _may_ make sense to reduce the grand plan down to a just good plan and get a 22 foot day sailor in excellent shape with just the basics. Such a boat will sell again easily within a year or two and it will make the whole operation less daunting. 80% return for 20% (well, 50%? G) the cost. For example, if you have a fleet of J24s racing near you and can find one somewhere that was only sailed by a grandmother, that's your boat. Generally speaking basics in hull, rig, engine, plumbing, and electrics (as opposed to electronics) will return value while fancy racing rigs, electronics, spotlights, stereos, refrigerators (they never work) don't hold money. Small amouonts of old wood can be finished pretty relatively easily, cushions cost a small fortune unless your wife sews (they may still cost _you_ g). Running rigging is easy to replace, if it's still all there; standing rigging is a project, no matter how you cut it. If an engine runs sort of OK (get an _engine_ survey) leave it alone - you're not crossing an ocean. If it doesn't, costs start at $1000 and end somewhere about $20k. Some boats (up to about 30') can take an outboard off the stern; you don't need much power, 15-20 hp is way plenty, 10hp will do fine, but you need a _longshaft_ motor geared for slow running. If you find an otherwise fine boat with a bad engine, this may be an option (depending on selling price). But ask the surveyor whether this type of boat works OK with an outboard. Besides the cost of the outboard, it will cost to install it - get quotes. You can pull the old engine yourself and get another "room" down there. The Pardeys put a hottub in their 30' boat under the companion step where the engine was not. You said you've sailed in the past, but it might be a good idea to pick up some rides as "rail meat" with the local racing boats and get your hand back in before you scare the living bejeesus out of your family. You can postpone the final big buy by bringing them along to look at select boats and otherwise getting them involved. Might get some good input, too. Save your bippy down the road when the wife wants to know why you didn't get one with an oven and air conditioning... Welcom back to boats. g Best luck. Rufus |
This guy doesn't know sheet about boats. Newports are awesome boats.
I own a 68 N30. It is rock solid. Catalina is a SheetBox. the keel is bolted on. no backing plates, under rigged, on and on . heres a guy who took his newport to hawaii and won overall on handicap! http://www.pacificcup.org/98/entries/Wate.html. I've owned a cal 27, catalina 27 and a newport 30 so far and I would take the newport anywhere I'd take the other ones. Oh, by the way, this cork smoker recommends Ranger as a boat. Gary Mull designed Ranger AND Newport boats http://www.google.COM/search?hl=en&i...l+newport+sail http://www.rocketboats.com/about/garymull.html Talk to anyone whos owned a newport 30, and you will hear the accolades. It may not be an S&S, but for the price, you can NOT beat it - and their fast as hell. Stay away from the bayliner. |
In ten years, It will be worth the same or more than you bought it for
only if you put 5 times that amount into it. Sailing is not an investment...It's a sickness. -Dick |
|
On 26 Jan 2005 16:03:32 -0800, "Frank" wrote:
I believe I said that the Newport line are nice-sailing boats, whether designed by C&C or Gary Mull, who happens to be one of my favorite designers. That's exactly why I recommended the Ranger to the OP, because it's a Mull design but with much (MUCH!) better construction quality than Newport. If you disagree with me about Newport construction, well, then, I leave the final decision up to each reader. I just finished crewing five years on a C&C built 1980s Newport 27. Picture a C&C 27, only one full ton lighter. A good club racer, but even a small square Lake Ontario wave would kill her speed. In five years, we scored two season first, a second and two thirds in our PHRF class, in which there was a C&C 27 Mk II, an S2, a Catalina 30, a couple of VIking 28s and some non-contenders. The Newport had the highest PHRF rating, so if we won, it was on corrected time. The Newport did, however, keep going in very light air, and that gave us line honours more than once in the dog days of summer. As to their construction: too damn light. Carrying the usual full hoist too long would set us on our beam ends, making a lot of lee. The skipper visibly fought the helm, but he was all about the manliness of it all, so whatever. Basically, the boat was killed by waves, but was a speedster in 12 knots. You could even surf downwind in 22 knots or better...you remember doing 10 knots in a 27 foot monohull keelboat. The cored deck was a problem the skipper solved by cutting a large rectangle out of the foredeck and replacing, reglassing and painting the patch. Looked gruesome, but got rid of the spongy feeling. Last comment: This boat really responds to a proper tuning job and is twitchy enough to benefit from a careful, attentive jib trimmer. Belowdecks, it's cheap and tight: only a midget can use the head without grunting. A good coasting boat/weekender, if you can deal with the cored deck issue. Can take a beating, but won't sail efficiently to wind due to cork-like buoyancy. R. |
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