opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
What not to bring is a better idea. I was going to take spare injectors
until the guy who owned a diesel repair facility is St Thomas told me that
a
spare would last 6 months at best before the tip would go bad. I didn't
take any and I never needed one.

Now that is a bunch of BS.. I'm amazed that any mechanic would make such a
statement..

A new or rebuilt injector is filled with diesel or calibration fluid and
once you seal it up in oiled rags in a zip lock bag it will last for ever..
There is just no way it can deteriorate. The spare injector I carryed around
on my last boat (same engine as now) is in perfect condition after 15 years
in storage.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

This raises a question that I've had for a long time -- re "oily rags." I've
always been taught they are a fire hazard, since they can spontaneously
combust. Yet one cannot help but have oily rags on a boat when doing any
kind of work around the engine, keeping tools from rusting, etc. So what's
the best way to SAFELY store them? The lubberly method of keeping them in
buckets of water won't work for obvious reasons.

--
Karin Conover-Lewis
Fair and Balanced since 1959
klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net


"Steve" wrote in message
...

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
What not to bring is a better idea. I was going to take spare injectors
until the guy who owned a diesel repair facility is St Thomas told me
that
a
spare would last 6 months at best before the tip would go bad. I didn't
take any and I never needed one.

Now that is a bunch of BS.. I'm amazed that any mechanic would make such a
statement..

A new or rebuilt injector is filled with diesel or calibration fluid and
once you seal it up in oiled rags in a zip lock bag it will last for
ever..
There is just no way it can deteriorate. The spare injector I carryed
around
on my last boat (same engine as now) is in perfect condition after 15
years
in storage.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

This raises a question that I've had for a long time -- re "oily rags." I've
always been taught they are a fire hazard, since they can spontaneously
combust. Yet one cannot help but have oily rags on a boat when doing any
kind of work around the engine, keeping tools from rusting, etc. So what's
the best way to SAFELY store them? The lubberly method of keeping them in
buckets of water won't work for obvious reasons.

--
Karin Conover-Lewis
Fair and Balanced since 1959
klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net


"Steve" wrote in message
...

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
What not to bring is a better idea. I was going to take spare injectors
until the guy who owned a diesel repair facility is St Thomas told me
that
a
spare would last 6 months at best before the tip would go bad. I didn't
take any and I never needed one.

Now that is a bunch of BS.. I'm amazed that any mechanic would make such a
statement..

A new or rebuilt injector is filled with diesel or calibration fluid and
once you seal it up in oiled rags in a zip lock bag it will last for
ever..
There is just no way it can deteriorate. The spare injector I carryed
around
on my last boat (same engine as now) is in perfect condition after 15
years
in storage.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

Combustion is the well known exothermic oxidation process.
Mineral oil on or off rags, does oxidize, but very slowly, specially
the oils with ani-oxidant additives.
But there *is* an oil that will easily spontaneously combust on shop
rags - linseed oil, specially raw linseed oil.

This is sometimes sprayed inside welded tube fuselages on homebuilds:
it is a clinging cover film to stop rust *and* it mops up oxygen too.

Brian Whatcott Altus

On Sat, 7 Feb 2004 09:45:14 -0600, "Karin Conover-Lewis"
wrote:

This raises a question that I've had for a long time -- re "oily rags." I've
always been taught they are a fire hazard, since they can spontaneously
combust. Yet one cannot help but have oily rags on a boat when doing any
kind of work around the engine, keeping tools from rusting, etc. So what's
the best way to SAFELY store them? The lubberly method of keeping them in
buckets of water won't work for obvious reasons.

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

Combustion is the well known exothermic oxidation process.
Mineral oil on or off rags, does oxidize, but very slowly, specially
the oils with ani-oxidant additives.
But there *is* an oil that will easily spontaneously combust on shop
rags - linseed oil, specially raw linseed oil.

This is sometimes sprayed inside welded tube fuselages on homebuilds:
it is a clinging cover film to stop rust *and* it mops up oxygen too.

Brian Whatcott Altus

On Sat, 7 Feb 2004 09:45:14 -0600, "Karin Conover-Lewis"
wrote:

This raises a question that I've had for a long time -- re "oily rags." I've
always been taught they are a fire hazard, since they can spontaneously
combust. Yet one cannot help but have oily rags on a boat when doing any
kind of work around the engine, keeping tools from rusting, etc. So what's
the best way to SAFELY store them? The lubberly method of keeping them in
buckets of water won't work for obvious reasons.

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

x-no-archive:yes

"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

This raises a question that I've had for a long time -- re "oily rags." I've
always been taught they are a fire hazard, since they can spontaneously
combust. Yet one cannot help but have oily rags on a boat when doing any
kind of work around the engine, keeping tools from rusting, etc. So what's
the best way to SAFELY store them? The lubberly method of keeping them in
buckets of water won't work for obvious reasons.

The oil that causes spontaneous combustion is vegetable type oil like
linseed oil in particular, not mineral or petroleum based oil.
Linseed oil is used in some varnishes and paints. In order to have
the spontaneous combustion you have to have air -that's why storing
them under water works. An air tight container also works. But
what's easier is to lay the rags flat to dry out because that way they
aren't close enough together to let heat build up.

This is a quote about boiled linseed oil from
http://yarchive.net/air/linseed_oil.html


"Boiled" is not what most people think; it should actually be called
"de-gassed" since the "boiling" is done by vacuum at room temperature.
It just takes the dissolved air out (the "boiling" is just the gases
expanding and breaking as bubbles), and makes the linseed oil less likely
to cause spontaneous combustion when oily rags are left wadded up.
(Remember "spontaneous combustion" warnings about oily rags? They never
managed to mention that linseed oil is the *only* oil you need to worry
about, and the only oil you were likely to generate oily rags with that
you were likely to store wadded up overnight for use the next day.)...
BTW, I swear by linseed oil as an anti-corrosive coating. I use it on
aluminum, *especially* externally where there have been white patches- I
sand off the white oxide and then coat with a thin layer of linseed oil
to occlude and passivate pinhole craters. It weathers away and need to
be reapplied, though you can get it off quickly with a little paint
remover when you need too.

Craig Wall




grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

x-no-archive:yes

"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

This raises a question that I've had for a long time -- re "oily rags." I've
always been taught they are a fire hazard, since they can spontaneously
combust. Yet one cannot help but have oily rags on a boat when doing any
kind of work around the engine, keeping tools from rusting, etc. So what's
the best way to SAFELY store them? The lubberly method of keeping them in
buckets of water won't work for obvious reasons.

The oil that causes spontaneous combustion is vegetable type oil like
linseed oil in particular, not mineral or petroleum based oil.
Linseed oil is used in some varnishes and paints. In order to have
the spontaneous combustion you have to have air -that's why storing
them under water works. An air tight container also works. But
what's easier is to lay the rags flat to dry out because that way they
aren't close enough together to let heat build up.

This is a quote about boiled linseed oil from
http://yarchive.net/air/linseed_oil.html


"Boiled" is not what most people think; it should actually be called
"de-gassed" since the "boiling" is done by vacuum at room temperature.
It just takes the dissolved air out (the "boiling" is just the gases
expanding and breaking as bubbles), and makes the linseed oil less likely
to cause spontaneous combustion when oily rags are left wadded up.
(Remember "spontaneous combustion" warnings about oily rags? They never
managed to mention that linseed oil is the *only* oil you need to worry
about, and the only oil you were likely to generate oily rags with that
you were likely to store wadded up overnight for use the next day.)...
BTW, I swear by linseed oil as an anti-corrosive coating. I use it on
aluminum, *especially* externally where there have been white patches- I
sand off the white oxide and then coat with a thin layer of linseed oil
to occlude and passivate pinhole craters. It weathers away and need to
be reapplied, though you can get it off quickly with a little paint
remover when you need too.

Craig Wall




grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

Rosalie

Okay, someone else also mentioned linseed oil. The problem is that in all
the shops where I've been where oily rags were generated, none of them had
linseed oil on them except in oil painting. In every other case it was
either mineral oil or other petroleum-based oils. Yet we always had to put
them in the "Oily Rags Can," which as I recall was a can with water in it,
for pick-up by the shop-rag service. On the boat I use Penetrol quite a
bit -- which may very well have linseed oil in it -- and they specifically
warn about spontaneous combustion with it.

--
Karin Conover-Lewis
Fair and Balanced since 1959
klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net


"Rosalie B." wrote in message
...
x-no-archive:yes

"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

This raises a question that I've had for a long time -- re "oily rags."
I've
always been taught they are a fire hazard, since they can spontaneously
combust. Yet one cannot help but have oily rags on a boat when doing any
kind of work around the engine, keeping tools from rusting, etc. So
what's
the best way to SAFELY store them? The lubberly method of keeping them in
buckets of water won't work for obvious reasons.

The oil that causes spontaneous combustion is vegetable type oil like
linseed oil in particular, not mineral or petroleum based oil.
Linseed oil is used in some varnishes and paints. In order to have
the spontaneous combustion you have to have air -that's why storing
them under water works. An air tight container also works. But
what's easier is to lay the rags flat to dry out because that way they
aren't close enough together to let heat build up.

This is a quote about boiled linseed oil from
http://yarchive.net/air/linseed_oil.html


"Boiled" is not what most people think; it should actually be called
"de-gassed" since the "boiling" is done by vacuum at room temperature.
It just takes the dissolved air out (the "boiling" is just the gases
expanding and breaking as bubbles), and makes the linseed oil less likely
to cause spontaneous combustion when oily rags are left wadded up.
(Remember "spontaneous combustion" warnings about oily rags? They never
managed to mention that linseed oil is the *only* oil you need to worry
about, and the only oil you were likely to generate oily rags with that
you were likely to store wadded up overnight for use the next day.)...
BTW, I swear by linseed oil as an anti-corrosive coating. I use it on
aluminum, *especially* externally where there have been white patches- I
sand off the white oxide and then coat with a thin layer of linseed oil
to occlude and passivate pinhole craters. It weathers away and need to
be reapplied, though you can get it off quickly with a little paint
remover when you need too.

Craig Wall




grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

Rosalie

Okay, someone else also mentioned linseed oil. The problem is that in all
the shops where I've been where oily rags were generated, none of them had
linseed oil on them except in oil painting. In every other case it was
either mineral oil or other petroleum-based oils. Yet we always had to put
them in the "Oily Rags Can," which as I recall was a can with water in it,
for pick-up by the shop-rag service. On the boat I use Penetrol quite a
bit -- which may very well have linseed oil in it -- and they specifically
warn about spontaneous combustion with it.

--
Karin Conover-Lewis
Fair and Balanced since 1959
klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net


"Rosalie B." wrote in message
...
x-no-archive:yes

"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

This raises a question that I've had for a long time -- re "oily rags."
I've
always been taught they are a fire hazard, since they can spontaneously
combust. Yet one cannot help but have oily rags on a boat when doing any
kind of work around the engine, keeping tools from rusting, etc. So
what's
the best way to SAFELY store them? The lubberly method of keeping them in
buckets of water won't work for obvious reasons.

The oil that causes spontaneous combustion is vegetable type oil like
linseed oil in particular, not mineral or petroleum based oil.
Linseed oil is used in some varnishes and paints. In order to have
the spontaneous combustion you have to have air -that's why storing
them under water works. An air tight container also works. But
what's easier is to lay the rags flat to dry out because that way they
aren't close enough together to let heat build up.

This is a quote about boiled linseed oil from
http://yarchive.net/air/linseed_oil.html


"Boiled" is not what most people think; it should actually be called
"de-gassed" since the "boiling" is done by vacuum at room temperature.
It just takes the dissolved air out (the "boiling" is just the gases
expanding and breaking as bubbles), and makes the linseed oil less likely
to cause spontaneous combustion when oily rags are left wadded up.
(Remember "spontaneous combustion" warnings about oily rags? They never
managed to mention that linseed oil is the *only* oil you need to worry
about, and the only oil you were likely to generate oily rags with that
you were likely to store wadded up overnight for use the next day.)...
BTW, I swear by linseed oil as an anti-corrosive coating. I use it on
aluminum, *especially* externally where there have been white patches- I
sand off the white oxide and then coat with a thin layer of linseed oil
to occlude and passivate pinhole craters. It weathers away and need to
be reapplied, though you can get it off quickly with a little paint
remover when you need too.

Craig Wall




grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

x-no-archive:yes


"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

Rosalie

Okay, someone else also mentioned linseed oil. The problem is that in all
the shops where I've been where oily rags were generated, none of them had
linseed oil on them except in oil painting. In every other case it was
either mineral oil or other petroleum-based oils. Yet we always had to put
them in the "Oily Rags Can," which as I recall was a can with water in it,
for pick-up by the shop-rag service. On the boat I use Penetrol quite a
bit -- which may very well have linseed oil in it -- and they specifically
warn about spontaneous combustion with it.

That's because of OSHA regulations rather than because it is actually
necessary. (I was an OSHA inspector for the last 14 years before I
retired.) And also because of CYA on the MSDSs. No one wants to go
out on a limb and say it isn't possible with petroleum based oils. At
least that's MHO.

In any case the oil has to BOTH be able to oxidize (i.e. air is
present) in an exothermic reaction which produces considerable heat,
AND the rag has to be scrunched up so that there's no way for the heat
to escape.

I'll have to look at the Penetrol can and see what it says. I'd be
surprised if it had linseed oil in it, because I thought it was mostly
synthetic.


grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

x-no-archive:yes


"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

Rosalie

Okay, someone else also mentioned linseed oil. The problem is that in all
the shops where I've been where oily rags were generated, none of them had
linseed oil on them except in oil painting. In every other case it was
either mineral oil or other petroleum-based oils. Yet we always had to put
them in the "Oily Rags Can," which as I recall was a can with water in it,
for pick-up by the shop-rag service. On the boat I use Penetrol quite a
bit -- which may very well have linseed oil in it -- and they specifically
warn about spontaneous combustion with it.

That's because of OSHA regulations rather than because it is actually
necessary. (I was an OSHA inspector for the last 14 years before I
retired.) And also because of CYA on the MSDSs. No one wants to go
out on a limb and say it isn't possible with petroleum based oils. At
least that's MHO.

In any case the oil has to BOTH be able to oxidize (i.e. air is
present) in an exothermic reaction which produces considerable heat,
AND the rag has to be scrunched up so that there's no way for the heat
to escape.

I'll have to look at the Penetrol can and see what it says. I'd be
surprised if it had linseed oil in it, because I thought it was mostly
synthetic.


grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

Interesting. So as long as I don't have linseed oil onboard, let rags dry
flat as much as practicable and generally just keep them stored in an
airtight container, I don't have anything to worry about?

--
Karin Conover-Lewis
Fair and Balanced since 1959
klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net


"Rosalie B." wrote in message
...
x-no-archive:yes


"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

Rosalie

Okay, someone else also mentioned linseed oil. The problem is that in all
the shops where I've been where oily rags were generated, none of them
had
linseed oil on them except in oil painting. In every other case it was
either mineral oil or other petroleum-based oils. Yet we always had to
put
them in the "Oily Rags Can," which as I recall was a can with water in
it,
for pick-up by the shop-rag service. On the boat I use Penetrol quite a
bit -- which may very well have linseed oil in it -- and they
specifically
warn about spontaneous combustion with it.

That's because of OSHA regulations rather than because it is actually
necessary. (I was an OSHA inspector for the last 14 years before I
retired.) And also because of CYA on the MSDSs. No one wants to go
out on a limb and say it isn't possible with petroleum based oils. At
least that's MHO.

In any case the oil has to BOTH be able to oxidize (i.e. air is
present) in an exothermic reaction which produces considerable heat,
AND the rag has to be scrunched up so that there's no way for the heat
to escape.

I'll have to look at the Penetrol can and see what it says. I'd be
surprised if it had linseed oil in it, because I thought it was mostly
synthetic.


grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

Interesting. So as long as I don't have linseed oil onboard, let rags dry
flat as much as practicable and generally just keep them stored in an
airtight container, I don't have anything to worry about?

--
Karin Conover-Lewis
Fair and Balanced since 1959
klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net


"Rosalie B." wrote in message
...
x-no-archive:yes


"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

Rosalie

Okay, someone else also mentioned linseed oil. The problem is that in all
the shops where I've been where oily rags were generated, none of them
had
linseed oil on them except in oil painting. In every other case it was
either mineral oil or other petroleum-based oils. Yet we always had to
put
them in the "Oily Rags Can," which as I recall was a can with water in
it,
for pick-up by the shop-rag service. On the boat I use Penetrol quite a
bit -- which may very well have linseed oil in it -- and they
specifically
warn about spontaneous combustion with it.

That's because of OSHA regulations rather than because it is actually
necessary. (I was an OSHA inspector for the last 14 years before I
retired.) And also because of CYA on the MSDSs. No one wants to go
out on a limb and say it isn't possible with petroleum based oils. At
least that's MHO.

In any case the oil has to BOTH be able to oxidize (i.e. air is
present) in an exothermic reaction which produces considerable heat,
AND the rag has to be scrunched up so that there's no way for the heat
to escape.

I'll have to look at the Penetrol can and see what it says. I'd be
surprised if it had linseed oil in it, because I thought it was mostly
synthetic.


grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

x-no-archive:yes

"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

Interesting. So as long as I don't have linseed oil onboard, let rags dry
flat as much as practicable and generally just keep them stored in an
airtight container, I don't have anything to worry about?

IMHO yes - but if you do have a problem - don't sue me.g


grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

x-no-archive:yes

"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

Interesting. So as long as I don't have linseed oil onboard, let rags dry
flat as much as practicable and generally just keep them stored in an
airtight container, I don't have anything to worry about?

IMHO yes - but if you do have a problem - don't sue me.g


grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

Oh, sure! NOW you say that. lol

--
Karin Conover-Lewis
Fair and Balanced since 1959
klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net


"Rosalie B." wrote in message
...
x-no-archive:yes

"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

Interesting. So as long as I don't have linseed oil onboard, let rags dry
flat as much as practicable and generally just keep them stored in an
airtight container, I don't have anything to worry about?

IMHO yes - but if you do have a problem - don't sue me.g


grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

Oh, sure! NOW you say that. lol

--
Karin Conover-Lewis
Fair and Balanced since 1959
klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net


"Rosalie B." wrote in message
...
x-no-archive:yes

"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

Interesting. So as long as I don't have linseed oil onboard, let rags dry
flat as much as practicable and generally just keep them stored in an
airtight container, I don't have anything to worry about?

IMHO yes - but if you do have a problem - don't sue me.g


grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

Hi,

How about a list of stuff that broke while cruising and tools you
wished you had but didn't...

cheers,
Pete.

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

Hi,

How about a list of stuff that broke while cruising and tools you
wished you had but didn't...

cheers,
Pete.

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

x-no-archive:yes


Pete C wrote:

Hi,

How about a list of stuff that broke while cruising and tools you
wished you had but didn't...

Mine has that. The most troublesome things are belts that stretch or
slip on the engine driven refrigeration, etc. And the other recurrent
problems are electrical (mostly loose connections), and wear an tear
on the cockpit enclosure causing stitching to rot or give way which
leads to leaks.

When we left on the first trip south, the refrigeration and the VHF
didn't work. We used the old VHF until we figured out the problem
with the new one (inadequate wiring). We used ice until we got the
refrigeration fixed.

The throttle cable broke, and Bob jury rigged one until he could get
to a marina to get a new one.

Various engine gauges lie about what the engine is doing. He uses the
infrared thermometer to ascertain the real situation.

Alternator bracket broke while we were under power and he got it
rewelded and ordered a spare when we got in to the marina.

Depth gauge didn't work because of a loose connection and barnacles on
the transducer.

Water pressure pump broke making the passage offshore from Charleston
to Florida, and was replaced when we got to port.

Bob has rebuilt the marine head and replaced the joker valve at
anchor.

Things that we wished we had which we have now - mast steps. After
the time I cross the lines on the winch (not knowing about the fact
that it doesn't reverse) with Bob about 10 feet off the deck in the
bosn's chair. Not exactly a tool I guess. He also found the bosn's
chair very uncomfortable and now has a climber's harness which is
padded.


Incidentally, Lynn Pardee addresses this in her books (don't remember
which one) but they have a lot more wood working tools than most would
have because Larry does earn cruising money by building boats etc.


grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

x-no-archive:yes


Pete C wrote:

Hi,

How about a list of stuff that broke while cruising and tools you
wished you had but didn't...

Mine has that. The most troublesome things are belts that stretch or
slip on the engine driven refrigeration, etc. And the other recurrent
problems are electrical (mostly loose connections), and wear an tear
on the cockpit enclosure causing stitching to rot or give way which
leads to leaks.

When we left on the first trip south, the refrigeration and the VHF
didn't work. We used the old VHF until we figured out the problem
with the new one (inadequate wiring). We used ice until we got the
refrigeration fixed.

The throttle cable broke, and Bob jury rigged one until he could get
to a marina to get a new one.

Various engine gauges lie about what the engine is doing. He uses the
infrared thermometer to ascertain the real situation.

Alternator bracket broke while we were under power and he got it
rewelded and ordered a spare when we got in to the marina.

Depth gauge didn't work because of a loose connection and barnacles on
the transducer.

Water pressure pump broke making the passage offshore from Charleston
to Florida, and was replaced when we got to port.

Bob has rebuilt the marine head and replaced the joker valve at
anchor.

Things that we wished we had which we have now - mast steps. After
the time I cross the lines on the winch (not knowing about the fact
that it doesn't reverse) with Bob about 10 feet off the deck in the
bosn's chair. Not exactly a tool I guess. He also found the bosn's
chair very uncomfortable and now has a climber's harness which is
padded.


Incidentally, Lynn Pardee addresses this in her books (don't remember
which one) but they have a lot more wood working tools than most would
have because Larry does earn cruising money by building boats etc.


grandma Rosalie

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

How about a list of stuff that broke while cruising and tools you
wished you had but didn't...


Other things to have spares /tools for:

1x19 SS cable of various sizes and a swage tool with swages. This can
come in handy for anything from a broken life-line, to emergency
replacement of shrouds, etc.

I always kept some 1/4" thick aluminum, 1/8" copper, and 1/16" and 3/16"
steel on board. With a hacksaw, file, dremmel (with small inverter),
you can fabricate many emergency parts. I had to make a prop key one
time. The aluminum worked great till I could get a real brass one. You
also should have a small clamp-on vice that you can use to hold your
piece while you work.

A dremmel is a very valuable tool to have and will work on a cheap 300W
inverter. A boat yard in La Paz told me that there was no way to remove
an old through-hull that was leaking. They couldn't get a grip on the
outside and there were no gripping keys on it. I used a cut-off wheel ,
and in 10 minutes had it removed by cutting from the inside of the
through hull.

Lots of various sizes of stainless steel screws, washers, and nuts.

Drill bits, copper wire (18 gauge magnet wire), and a hand crank drill
will work under water to drill and sew an emergency patch onto the hull.

EZ out set. I broke a bolt on an engine mount and luckily had an EZ out
set in my tool box. Good luck finding a set when you are in a remote place.

Extra line for running rigging. You'd be surprised at how much chafe
you can get on a loose line in a gale.

Extra blocks heavy enough to be used for anything from lifting a person
or engine, to using a a replacement turning block for the one that
exploded during that gale.

2 or 3 more impellers/filters/zincs than you think you will ever need.

And always, always have at least one complete rebuild kit for any pump
on board -- especially the head.

Argonauta

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

How about a list of stuff that broke while cruising and tools you
wished you had but didn't...


Other things to have spares /tools for:

1x19 SS cable of various sizes and a swage tool with swages. This can
come in handy for anything from a broken life-line, to emergency
replacement of shrouds, etc.

I always kept some 1/4" thick aluminum, 1/8" copper, and 1/16" and 3/16"
steel on board. With a hacksaw, file, dremmel (with small inverter),
you can fabricate many emergency parts. I had to make a prop key one
time. The aluminum worked great till I could get a real brass one. You
also should have a small clamp-on vice that you can use to hold your
piece while you work.

A dremmel is a very valuable tool to have and will work on a cheap 300W
inverter. A boat yard in La Paz told me that there was no way to remove
an old through-hull that was leaking. They couldn't get a grip on the
outside and there were no gripping keys on it. I used a cut-off wheel ,
and in 10 minutes had it removed by cutting from the inside of the
through hull.

Lots of various sizes of stainless steel screws, washers, and nuts.

Drill bits, copper wire (18 gauge magnet wire), and a hand crank drill
will work under water to drill and sew an emergency patch onto the hull.

EZ out set. I broke a bolt on an engine mount and luckily had an EZ out
set in my tool box. Good luck finding a set when you are in a remote place.

Extra line for running rigging. You'd be surprised at how much chafe
you can get on a loose line in a gale.

Extra blocks heavy enough to be used for anything from lifting a person
or engine, to using a a replacement turning block for the one that
exploded during that gale.

2 or 3 more impellers/filters/zincs than you think you will ever need.

And always, always have at least one complete rebuild kit for any pump
on board -- especially the head.

Argonauta

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

Hi,

Thanks, that's food for thought. The IR thermometer is a good one,
could also be used to check exhaust and alternator temps.

cheers,
Pete.

opinions sought for full-time cruiser Tools and Spares selection
 

Hi,

Thanks, that's food for thought. The IR thermometer is a good one,
could also be used to check exhaust and alternator temps.

cheers,
Pete.