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December 24 - For all the saints (a riff on a hymn)
On Mon, 24 Dec 2007 21:57:47 -0500, "Ernest Scribbler"
wrote: "Don White" wrote Aluminum ivets shouldn't be hard to find... They're readily available, (and less costly) but stainless rivets are more commonly used by manufacturers, from what I've seen. My guess is that their greater strength outweighs the other considerations. Since the corrosion takes place primarily the aluminum side of the joint using aluminum rivets will result in rapid loss of the rivets. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
December 24 - For all the saints (a riff on a hymn)
On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 08:11:52 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote: Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast? Well, you could weld it. With iddy biddy explosive charges. Casady |
December 24 - For all the saints (a riff on a hymn)
On Dec 24, 3:11 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
... Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast? ... FWIW, you can get aluminum sail track. I've got miles (or so it seems) of black anodized AL Harken track on my boat. IMO, _the_ "right" way to attach anything to an AL mast is to drill and tap the mast for ss fasteners and then isolate _all_ of the parts with Durlac (or similar). BTW, I'd be very grateful if anyone could point me to a source for Durlac here in the States. It seems silly to ship a tube up for New Zealand. Merry Christmas! -- Tom. |
December 24 - For all the saints (a riff on a hymn)
On 2007-12-24 20:11:52 -0500, Bruce in Bangkok said:
On Mon, 24 Dec 2007 05:33:29 -0600, Geoff Schultz wrote: Skip Gundlach wrote in news:518214e6-13f1-479c- : We will use that track to install a storm trysail track on the mast. The same stainless rivets we bought for our railings will work on that, as well. I hope that you're not planning on using stainless rivets on an aluminum mast/boom! You're looking at serious corrosion problems if you do that. -- Geoff www.GeoffSchultz.org Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast? ?? Every bit of track on our boat is aluminum. Given an aluminum spar and aluminum track, I'd tend toward aluminum rivets, perhaps more of them, but as closely spaced as most track holes are, the built-in overkill seems sufficient. Meanwhile, stainless fasteners in aluminum isn't significantly different than through-bolting aluminum with stainless bolts. Ours haven't seemed to suffer ill effects after 35 years. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
December 24 - For all the saints (a riff on a hymn)
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
On Mon, 24 Dec 2007 21:57:47 -0500, "Ernest Scribbler" wrote: "Don White" wrote Aluminum ivets shouldn't be hard to find... They're readily available, (and less costly) but stainless rivets are more commonly used by manufacturers, from what I've seen. My guess is that their greater strength outweighs the other considerations. Since the corrosion takes place primarily the aluminum side of the joint using aluminum rivets will result in rapid loss of the rivets. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) I recently removed the upper shroud attachment SS plates from a 30 yr old aluminum mast. The rivets were aluminum. The aluminum mast portion under the SS plates was badly corroded away but the rivet heads were still in good shape! There was a large stainless bolt going all the way through both attachments and the mast and this is what was holding everything together. Gordon |
December 24 - For all the saints (a riff on a hymn)
On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 10:07:21 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: On Dec 24, 3:11 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote: ... Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast? ... FWIW, you can get aluminum sail track. I've got miles (or so it seems) of black anodized AL Harken track on my boat. IMO, _the_ "right" way to attach anything to an AL mast is to drill and tap the mast for ss fasteners and then isolate _all_ of the parts with Durlac (or similar). BTW, I'd be very grateful if anyone could point me to a source for Durlac here in the States. It seems silly to ship a tube up for New Zealand. Merry Christmas! -- Tom. It isn't the same stuff but I have used 3M 5200 to insulate aluminum-stainless joints with success on masts and spars. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
December 24 - For all the saints (a riff on a hymn)
"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message ... On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 10:07:21 -0800 (PST), " wrote: On Dec 24, 3:11 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote: ... Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast? ... FWIW, you can get aluminum sail track. I've got miles (or so it seems) of black anodized AL Harken track on my boat. IMO, _the_ "right" way to attach anything to an AL mast is to drill and tap the mast for ss fasteners and then isolate _all_ of the parts with Durlac (or similar). BTW, I'd be very grateful if anyone could point me to a source for Durlac here in the States. It seems silly to ship a tube up for New Zealand. Merry Christmas! -- Tom. It isn't the same stuff but I have used 3M 5200 to insulate aluminum-stainless joints with success on masts and spars. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) I used the 3M 4200. (just in cast dis-assembly required) |
December 24 - For all the saints (a riff on a hymn)
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December 24 - For all the saints (a riff on a hymn)
On 2007-12-26 17:37:50 -0500, Bruce in Bangkok said:
You know? I've been reading this on this news group for years and for all that time, and longer, I've been using 3M 5200 to bed things on boats and never once have I had any problems in removing the item when I wanted to. I agree it is a pretty good adhesive but certainly not impossible, or even very difficult. to remove items attached with it. My experience has been that with good surface prep, 5200 is essentially "forever" (or at least greater than a decade). Extremely tough to cut, stayed flexible and bonded to the surface better than the gelcoat to the substrate. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
December 24 - For all the saints (a riff on a hymn)
On Thu, 27 Dec 2007 00:59:01 GMT, Jere Lull wrote:
On 2007-12-26 17:37:50 -0500, Bruce in Bangkok said: You know? I've been reading this on this news group for years and for all that time, and longer, I've been using 3M 5200 to bed things on boats and never once have I had any problems in removing the item when I wanted to. I agree it is a pretty good adhesive but certainly not impossible, or even very difficult. to remove items attached with it. My experience has been that with good surface prep, 5200 is essentially "forever" (or at least greater than a decade). Extremely tough to cut, stayed flexible and bonded to the surface better than the gelcoat to the substrate. It is a good "glue" but easy enough to remove. Take a couple of putty knives and sharpen the edge like a knife. you can drive these between the two parts to sheer the 5200 (it never gets hard) and work around the whatever you are taking off. then just pull it off. It sounds kind of difficult when described but is actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it. The nice thing about 5200 is, as you say, it makes a joint that lasts forever. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
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