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Jeffrey P. Vasquez January 26th 04 11:15 PM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
Hi all,

I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh
water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind soul that can
offer some advice.

I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to the hose
coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on, starting the
engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about overpressuring
the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps into the
engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to accomplish this?
There's always positive pressure on the system from the through-hull
anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from upstream of the
water pump, I'm safe. True?

Many thanks,

JAXAshby January 26th 04 11:28 PM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh
water.


whoever advised you of that didn't know WTF they were talking about. Don't
waste your time worrying about it.

JAXAshby January 26th 04 11:28 PM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh
water.


whoever advised you of that didn't know WTF they were talking about. Don't
waste your time worrying about it.

Bruce January 27th 04 01:32 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
Second that
"JAXAshby" wrote in message
...
I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with

fresh
water.


whoever advised you of that didn't know WTF they were talking about.

Don't
waste your time worrying about it.




Bruce January 27th 04 01:32 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
Second that
"JAXAshby" wrote in message
...
I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with

fresh
water.


whoever advised you of that didn't know WTF they were talking about.

Don't
waste your time worrying about it.




Ken Heaton January 27th 04 02:32 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
Comments below:

"Jeffrey P. Vasquez" wrote in
message ...
Hi all,

I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with

fresh
water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind soul that can
offer some advice.

I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to the hose
coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on, starting the
engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about overpressuring
the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps into the
engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to accomplish this?
There's always positive pressure on the system from the through-hull
anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from upstream of

the
water pump, I'm safe. True?

Many thanks,


Should work but...

We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece
of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the
engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the
bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it
overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of
over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in
Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze
into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the
exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season.
--
Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
Cape Breton Island, Canada
kenheaton AT ess wye dee DOT eastlink DOT ca



Ken Heaton January 27th 04 02:32 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
Comments below:

"Jeffrey P. Vasquez" wrote in
message ...
Hi all,

I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with

fresh
water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind soul that can
offer some advice.

I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to the hose
coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on, starting the
engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about overpressuring
the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps into the
engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to accomplish this?
There's always positive pressure on the system from the through-hull
anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from upstream of

the
water pump, I'm safe. True?

Many thanks,


Should work but...

We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece
of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the
engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the
bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it
overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of
over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in
Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze
into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the
exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season.
--
Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
Cape Breton Island, Canada
kenheaton AT ess wye dee DOT eastlink DOT ca



JAXAshby January 27th 04 04:12 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
Ken, he is not talking about winterizing his engine, he is talking about
"flushing" the raw water cooling system of salt.


Hi all,

I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with

fresh
water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind soul that can
offer some advice.

I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to the hose
coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on, starting the
engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about overpressuring
the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps into the
engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to accomplish this?
There's always positive pressure on the system from the through-hull
anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from upstream of

the
water pump, I'm safe. True?

Many thanks,


Should work but...

We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece
of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the
engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the
bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it
overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of
over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in
Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze
into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the
exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season.
--
Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
Cape Breton Island, Canada
kenheaton AT ess wye dee DOT eastlink DOT ca











JAXAshby January 27th 04 04:12 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
Ken, he is not talking about winterizing his engine, he is talking about
"flushing" the raw water cooling system of salt.


Hi all,

I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with

fresh
water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind soul that can
offer some advice.

I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to the hose
coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on, starting the
engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about overpressuring
the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps into the
engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to accomplish this?
There's always positive pressure on the system from the through-hull
anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from upstream of

the
water pump, I'm safe. True?

Many thanks,


Should work but...

We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece
of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the
engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the
bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it
overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of
over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in
Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze
into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the
exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season.
--
Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
Cape Breton Island, Canada
kenheaton AT ess wye dee DOT eastlink DOT ca











Leanne January 27th 04 04:17 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 

"Jeffrey P. Vasquez"
wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar

2GM with fresh
water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind

soul that can
offer some advice.

I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to

the hose
coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on,

starting the
engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about

overpressuring
the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps

into the
engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to

accomplish this?
There's always positive pressure on the system from the

through-hull
anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from

upstream of the
water pump, I'm safe. True?


When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there
was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that
allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water
hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you
went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get
antifreeze into the cooling system.

Leanne



Leanne January 27th 04 04:17 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 

"Jeffrey P. Vasquez"
wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar

2GM with fresh
water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind

soul that can
offer some advice.

I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to

the hose
coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on,

starting the
engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about

overpressuring
the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps

into the
engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to

accomplish this?
There's always positive pressure on the system from the

through-hull
anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from

upstream of the
water pump, I'm safe. True?


When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there
was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that
allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water
hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you
went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get
antifreeze into the cooling system.

Leanne



JAXAshby January 27th 04 04:51 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
you wanna do that BE SURE your engine is running. Otherwise, you will fill
your waterlife muffler until it overflows back into the exhaust manifold and
down one or more of the open exhaust valves, to either hydrolock when you start
the engine or seize the engine with salt water corrosion interally.

When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there
was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that
allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water
hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you
went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get
antifreeze into the cooling system.

Leanne











JAXAshby January 27th 04 04:51 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
you wanna do that BE SURE your engine is running. Otherwise, you will fill
your waterlife muffler until it overflows back into the exhaust manifold and
down one or more of the open exhaust valves, to either hydrolock when you start
the engine or seize the engine with salt water corrosion interally.

When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there
was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that
allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water
hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you
went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get
antifreeze into the cooling system.

Leanne











Larry W4CSC January 27th 04 05:24 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 23:17:52 -0500, "Leanne" wrote:


When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there
was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that
allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water
hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you
went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get
antifreeze into the cooling system.

Leanne


If one were to introduce fresh water from the hose to a T after the
salt water strainer (with a valve in the fresh water inlet, of course,
to shut off when not flushing), many good things would happen at once.

You'd be providing fresh water in the intake of the engine water
pump.....flushing the engine.

You'd be BACKFLUSHING the intake system and strainer, probably blowing
out the crap in the strainer back overboard.

The backflushing of the intake with fresh water would eliminate any
"pressure" from the hose as the system would be wide open to the sea.
There wouldn't be any pressure to worry about.

In all honesty, this isn't my idea. My Mercury Sport Jet 175 in my
Sea Ray Sea Rayder F16XR2 is fresh water flushed this way. The only
difference is it has no water pump to buy impellers for. 35 PSI of
seawater pressurizes the water jacket from the BIG pump under the
stern. It simply has a pipe pointing into the 60 gallons per second
pressurized water stream just aft of the stator inside the nozzle's
pressure chamber.

There's no reason not to put a T with a ball valve to the fresh water
hose tap in the hose between the strainer and the water pump. I,
personally, like the idea of flushing out the salt in ANY cooling
system after use. Most yachtsmen, who are too lazy to eliminate the
water ingestion into their diesel tanks by filling them after use,
wouldn't flush the engine, either. To many, engines are just
disposables, anyway. The water jacket, all its fittings and the main
jet pump on "Tess Tickles Too", after 6 years of salt water use, look
just like the first day I launched it.....just because it's flushed
after each use before being stored. It's stupid to leave salt
corroding away the inside of an expensive diesel engine, eating away
at the zinc pencils, when you're not using it.....


Larry W4CSC

Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3
of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to
GIVE IT BACK?!!

Larry W4CSC January 27th 04 05:24 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 23:17:52 -0500, "Leanne" wrote:


When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there
was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that
allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water
hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you
went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get
antifreeze into the cooling system.

Leanne


If one were to introduce fresh water from the hose to a T after the
salt water strainer (with a valve in the fresh water inlet, of course,
to shut off when not flushing), many good things would happen at once.

You'd be providing fresh water in the intake of the engine water
pump.....flushing the engine.

You'd be BACKFLUSHING the intake system and strainer, probably blowing
out the crap in the strainer back overboard.

The backflushing of the intake with fresh water would eliminate any
"pressure" from the hose as the system would be wide open to the sea.
There wouldn't be any pressure to worry about.

In all honesty, this isn't my idea. My Mercury Sport Jet 175 in my
Sea Ray Sea Rayder F16XR2 is fresh water flushed this way. The only
difference is it has no water pump to buy impellers for. 35 PSI of
seawater pressurizes the water jacket from the BIG pump under the
stern. It simply has a pipe pointing into the 60 gallons per second
pressurized water stream just aft of the stator inside the nozzle's
pressure chamber.

There's no reason not to put a T with a ball valve to the fresh water
hose tap in the hose between the strainer and the water pump. I,
personally, like the idea of flushing out the salt in ANY cooling
system after use. Most yachtsmen, who are too lazy to eliminate the
water ingestion into their diesel tanks by filling them after use,
wouldn't flush the engine, either. To many, engines are just
disposables, anyway. The water jacket, all its fittings and the main
jet pump on "Tess Tickles Too", after 6 years of salt water use, look
just like the first day I launched it.....just because it's flushed
after each use before being stored. It's stupid to leave salt
corroding away the inside of an expensive diesel engine, eating away
at the zinc pencils, when you're not using it.....


Larry W4CSC

Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3
of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to
GIVE IT BACK?!!

[email protected] January 27th 04 05:41 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 22:32:38 -0400, "Ken Heaton"
wrote:



We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece
of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the
engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the
bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it
overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of
over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in
Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze
into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the
exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season.


This is the recommended method. You can make it easier by putting a
Y-valve above the thru-hull, The hose on the Y can have a garden hose
end on it and can be looped above the waterline if you are paranoid.

An added, if emergency, benefit of this is that you can wrap some sort
of strainer (a piece of nylon mesh, whatever) on the end of this and
in an emergency can use this hose to drain your bilges using the
engine's water pump. It's not as motivated as a man with a bucket, but
it will go longer while you are dealing with getting the boat in
order.

R.

[email protected] January 27th 04 05:41 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 22:32:38 -0400, "Ken Heaton"
wrote:



We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece
of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the
engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the
bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it
overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of
over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in
Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze
into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the
exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season.


This is the recommended method. You can make it easier by putting a
Y-valve above the thru-hull, The hose on the Y can have a garden hose
end on it and can be looped above the waterline if you are paranoid.

An added, if emergency, benefit of this is that you can wrap some sort
of strainer (a piece of nylon mesh, whatever) on the end of this and
in an emergency can use this hose to drain your bilges using the
engine's water pump. It's not as motivated as a man with a bucket, but
it will go longer while you are dealing with getting the boat in
order.

R.

JAXAshby January 27th 04 03:22 PM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
larry, do that as you suggest on a Yanmar with a waterlift muffler and you will
cause some expensive to repair damage.

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 23:17:52 -0500, "Leanne" wrote:


When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there
was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that
allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water
hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you
went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get
antifreeze into the cooling system.

Leanne


If one were to introduce fresh water from the hose to a T after the
salt water strainer (with a valve in the fresh water inlet, of course,
to shut off when not flushing), many good things would happen at once.

You'd be providing fresh water in the intake of the engine water
pump.....flushing the engine.

You'd be BACKFLUSHING the intake system and strainer, probably blowing
out the crap in the strainer back overboard.

The backflushing of the intake with fresh water would eliminate any
"pressure" from the hose as the system would be wide open to the sea.
There wouldn't be any pressure to worry about.

In all honesty, this isn't my idea. My Mercury Sport Jet 175 in my
Sea Ray Sea Rayder F16XR2 is fresh water flushed this way. The only
difference is it has no water pump to buy impellers for. 35 PSI of
seawater pressurizes the water jacket from the BIG pump under the
stern. It simply has a pipe pointing into the 60 gallons per second
pressurized water stream just aft of the stator inside the nozzle's
pressure chamber.

There's no reason not to put a T with a ball valve to the fresh water
hose tap in the hose between the strainer and the water pump. I,
personally, like the idea of flushing out the salt in ANY cooling
system after use. Most yachtsmen, who are too lazy to eliminate the
water ingestion into their diesel tanks by filling them after use,
wouldn't flush the engine, either. To many, engines are just
disposables, anyway. The water jacket, all its fittings and the main
jet pump on "Tess Tickles Too", after 6 years of salt water use, look
just like the first day I launched it.....just because it's flushed
after each use before being stored. It's stupid to leave salt
corroding away the inside of an expensive diesel engine, eating away
at the zinc pencils, when you're not using it.....


Larry W4CSC

Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3
of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to
GIVE IT BACK?!!









JAXAshby January 27th 04 03:22 PM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
larry, do that as you suggest on a Yanmar with a waterlift muffler and you will
cause some expensive to repair damage.

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 23:17:52 -0500, "Leanne" wrote:


When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there
was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that
allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water
hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you
went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get
antifreeze into the cooling system.

Leanne


If one were to introduce fresh water from the hose to a T after the
salt water strainer (with a valve in the fresh water inlet, of course,
to shut off when not flushing), many good things would happen at once.

You'd be providing fresh water in the intake of the engine water
pump.....flushing the engine.

You'd be BACKFLUSHING the intake system and strainer, probably blowing
out the crap in the strainer back overboard.

The backflushing of the intake with fresh water would eliminate any
"pressure" from the hose as the system would be wide open to the sea.
There wouldn't be any pressure to worry about.

In all honesty, this isn't my idea. My Mercury Sport Jet 175 in my
Sea Ray Sea Rayder F16XR2 is fresh water flushed this way. The only
difference is it has no water pump to buy impellers for. 35 PSI of
seawater pressurizes the water jacket from the BIG pump under the
stern. It simply has a pipe pointing into the 60 gallons per second
pressurized water stream just aft of the stator inside the nozzle's
pressure chamber.

There's no reason not to put a T with a ball valve to the fresh water
hose tap in the hose between the strainer and the water pump. I,
personally, like the idea of flushing out the salt in ANY cooling
system after use. Most yachtsmen, who are too lazy to eliminate the
water ingestion into their diesel tanks by filling them after use,
wouldn't flush the engine, either. To many, engines are just
disposables, anyway. The water jacket, all its fittings and the main
jet pump on "Tess Tickles Too", after 6 years of salt water use, look
just like the first day I launched it.....just because it's flushed
after each use before being stored. It's stupid to leave salt
corroding away the inside of an expensive diesel engine, eating away
at the zinc pencils, when you're not using it.....


Larry W4CSC

Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3
of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to
GIVE IT BACK?!!









JAXAshby January 27th 04 03:25 PM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
hey, you guys, kindly knock it off. You don't have a clew what you are talking
about in this case.

Leanne, it will cost you several thousand dollars to repair the damage there
guys are trying to do to your engine. Just send me $2,000 (in used bills,
please) and I will walk over to St Patrick's cathedral and light a candle for
you. That way you will save a LOT of money over a rebuild.


We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece
of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the
engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the
bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it
overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of
over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in
Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze
into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the
exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season.


This is the recommended method. You can make it easier by putting a
Y-valve above the thru-hull, The hose on the Y can have a garden hose
end on it and can be looped above the waterline if you are paranoid.

An added, if emergency, benefit of this is that you can wrap some sort
of strainer (a piece of nylon mesh, whatever) on the end of this and
in an emergency can use this hose to drain your bilges using the
engine's water pump. It's not as motivated as a man with a bucket, but
it will go longer while you are dealing with getting the boat in
order.

R.









JAXAshby January 27th 04 03:25 PM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
hey, you guys, kindly knock it off. You don't have a clew what you are talking
about in this case.

Leanne, it will cost you several thousand dollars to repair the damage there
guys are trying to do to your engine. Just send me $2,000 (in used bills,
please) and I will walk over to St Patrick's cathedral and light a candle for
you. That way you will save a LOT of money over a rebuild.


We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece
of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the
engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the
bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it
overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of
over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in
Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze
into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the
exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season.


This is the recommended method. You can make it easier by putting a
Y-valve above the thru-hull, The hose on the Y can have a garden hose
end on it and can be looped above the waterline if you are paranoid.

An added, if emergency, benefit of this is that you can wrap some sort
of strainer (a piece of nylon mesh, whatever) on the end of this and
in an emergency can use this hose to drain your bilges using the
engine's water pump. It's not as motivated as a man with a bucket, but
it will go longer while you are dealing with getting the boat in
order.

R.









Larry W4CSC January 27th 04 11:28 PM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
On 27 Jan 2004 15:22:20 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote:

larry, do that as you suggest on a Yanmar with a waterlift muffler and you will
cause some expensive to repair damage.

How? The engine is RUNNING during the flush. Feeding fresh water
into the stream into the RUNNING water pump simply replaces salt with
fresh. Any fresh water not pumped into the engine by the engine's OWN
water pump (whos impeller, by the way, meters how much water it passes
because my way has no hose pressure on it to speak of)...any excess
fresh water is simply fed backwards through the seawater strainer,
probably clearing it of the crap and run overboard unless the intake
or strainer is clogged, of course.

As the engine is RUNNING, there is no waterbox flooding or exhaust
backup because of the exhaust pressure of the engine. No excessive
water pressure is applied to the engine, any more than the water the
seawater pump on the engine imparts on it.

How's it going to destroy the engine this way. Simply turn off the
hose as soon as you stop the engine......before the seawater is pumped
through it, again.

You'd probably NEVER have to flush or core the cooling system if you
did it every time you used it.....even on closed systems with a heat
exchanger!


Larry W4CSC

Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3
of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to
GIVE IT BACK?!!

Larry W4CSC January 27th 04 11:28 PM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
On 27 Jan 2004 15:22:20 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote:

larry, do that as you suggest on a Yanmar with a waterlift muffler and you will
cause some expensive to repair damage.

How? The engine is RUNNING during the flush. Feeding fresh water
into the stream into the RUNNING water pump simply replaces salt with
fresh. Any fresh water not pumped into the engine by the engine's OWN
water pump (whos impeller, by the way, meters how much water it passes
because my way has no hose pressure on it to speak of)...any excess
fresh water is simply fed backwards through the seawater strainer,
probably clearing it of the crap and run overboard unless the intake
or strainer is clogged, of course.

As the engine is RUNNING, there is no waterbox flooding or exhaust
backup because of the exhaust pressure of the engine. No excessive
water pressure is applied to the engine, any more than the water the
seawater pump on the engine imparts on it.

How's it going to destroy the engine this way. Simply turn off the
hose as soon as you stop the engine......before the seawater is pumped
through it, again.

You'd probably NEVER have to flush or core the cooling system if you
did it every time you used it.....even on closed systems with a heat
exchanger!


Larry W4CSC

Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3
of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to
GIVE IT BACK?!!

JAXAshby January 28th 04 12:19 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
*pressure* water into the raw water intake can indeed overfill the waterlift
muffler once the engine is not running, and it doesn't take long.

As far as "cleaning out" the cooling system by flushing after use, that just
doesn't play. The cooling system gets clogged up by a.) "carbonates" loosely
meaning the various salts that plate out on the cooling system walls as hot
salt water (which has LOTs minerals in it), and b.) crud -- like silt -- that
falls out of the water as it flows through the cooling system.

And Yanmar raw water cooled engines were more suseptable to both a.) and b.)
than other raw water cooled engines of the era.

And again, do NOT turn pressure water on when the engine is not running.
Better is to run the water into a 5-gallon bucket and suck it from the bucket
into the engine.

your explanation was not clear that the engine MUST be running.

On 27 Jan 2004 15:22:20 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote:

larry, do that as you suggest on a Yanmar with a waterlift muffler and you

will
cause some expensive to repair damage.

How? The engine is RUNNING during the flush. Feeding fresh water
into the stream into the RUNNING water pump simply replaces salt with
fresh. Any fresh water not pumped into the engine by the engine's OWN
water pump (whos impeller, by the way, meters how much water it passes
because my way has no hose pressure on it to speak of)...any excess
fresh water is simply fed backwards through the seawater strainer,
probably clearing it of the crap and run overboard unless the intake
or strainer is clogged, of course.

As the engine is RUNNING, there is no waterbox flooding or exhaust
backup because of the exhaust pressure of the engine. No excessive
water pressure is applied to the engine, any more than the water the
seawater pump on the engine imparts on it.

How's it going to destroy the engine this way. Simply turn off the
hose as soon as you stop the engine......before the seawater is pumped
through it, again.

You'd probably NEVER have to flush or core the cooling system if you
did it every time you used it.....even on closed systems with a heat
exchanger!


Larry W4CSC

Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3
of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to
GIVE IT BACK?!!









JAXAshby January 28th 04 12:19 AM

Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
 
*pressure* water into the raw water intake can indeed overfill the waterlift
muffler once the engine is not running, and it doesn't take long.

As far as "cleaning out" the cooling system by flushing after use, that just
doesn't play. The cooling system gets clogged up by a.) "carbonates" loosely
meaning the various salts that plate out on the cooling system walls as hot
salt water (which has LOTs minerals in it), and b.) crud -- like silt -- that
falls out of the water as it flows through the cooling system.

And Yanmar raw water cooled engines were more suseptable to both a.) and b.)
than other raw water cooled engines of the era.

And again, do NOT turn pressure water on when the engine is not running.
Better is to run the water into a 5-gallon bucket and suck it from the bucket
into the engine.

your explanation was not clear that the engine MUST be running.

On 27 Jan 2004 15:22:20 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote:

larry, do that as you suggest on a Yanmar with a waterlift muffler and you

will
cause some expensive to repair damage.

How? The engine is RUNNING during the flush. Feeding fresh water
into the stream into the RUNNING water pump simply replaces salt with
fresh. Any fresh water not pumped into the engine by the engine's OWN
water pump (whos impeller, by the way, meters how much water it passes
because my way has no hose pressure on it to speak of)...any excess
fresh water is simply fed backwards through the seawater strainer,
probably clearing it of the crap and run overboard unless the intake
or strainer is clogged, of course.

As the engine is RUNNING, there is no waterbox flooding or exhaust
backup because of the exhaust pressure of the engine. No excessive
water pressure is applied to the engine, any more than the water the
seawater pump on the engine imparts on it.

How's it going to destroy the engine this way. Simply turn off the
hose as soon as you stop the engine......before the seawater is pumped
through it, again.

You'd probably NEVER have to flush or core the cooling system if you
did it every time you used it.....even on closed systems with a heat
exchanger!


Larry W4CSC

Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3
of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to
GIVE IT BACK?!!










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