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Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
Hi all,
I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind soul that can offer some advice. I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to the hose coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on, starting the engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about overpressuring the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps into the engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to accomplish this? There's always positive pressure on the system from the through-hull anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from upstream of the water pump, I'm safe. True? Many thanks, |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh
water. whoever advised you of that didn't know WTF they were talking about. Don't waste your time worrying about it. |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh
water. whoever advised you of that didn't know WTF they were talking about. Don't waste your time worrying about it. |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
Second that
"JAXAshby" wrote in message ... I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh water. whoever advised you of that didn't know WTF they were talking about. Don't waste your time worrying about it. |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
Second that
"JAXAshby" wrote in message ... I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh water. whoever advised you of that didn't know WTF they were talking about. Don't waste your time worrying about it. |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
Comments below:
"Jeffrey P. Vasquez" wrote in message ... Hi all, I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind soul that can offer some advice. I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to the hose coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on, starting the engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about overpressuring the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps into the engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to accomplish this? There's always positive pressure on the system from the through-hull anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from upstream of the water pump, I'm safe. True? Many thanks, Should work but... We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season. -- Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin Cape Breton Island, Canada kenheaton AT ess wye dee DOT eastlink DOT ca |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
Comments below:
"Jeffrey P. Vasquez" wrote in message ... Hi all, I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind soul that can offer some advice. I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to the hose coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on, starting the engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about overpressuring the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps into the engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to accomplish this? There's always positive pressure on the system from the through-hull anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from upstream of the water pump, I'm safe. True? Many thanks, Should work but... We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season. -- Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin Cape Breton Island, Canada kenheaton AT ess wye dee DOT eastlink DOT ca |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
Ken, he is not talking about winterizing his engine, he is talking about
"flushing" the raw water cooling system of salt. Hi all, I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind soul that can offer some advice. I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to the hose coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on, starting the engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about overpressuring the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps into the engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to accomplish this? There's always positive pressure on the system from the through-hull anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from upstream of the water pump, I'm safe. True? Many thanks, Should work but... We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season. -- Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin Cape Breton Island, Canada kenheaton AT ess wye dee DOT eastlink DOT ca |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
Ken, he is not talking about winterizing his engine, he is talking about
"flushing" the raw water cooling system of salt. Hi all, I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind soul that can offer some advice. I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to the hose coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on, starting the engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about overpressuring the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps into the engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to accomplish this? There's always positive pressure on the system from the through-hull anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from upstream of the water pump, I'm safe. True? Many thanks, Should work but... We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season. -- Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin Cape Breton Island, Canada kenheaton AT ess wye dee DOT eastlink DOT ca |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
"Jeffrey P. Vasquez" wrote in message ... Hi all, I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind soul that can offer some advice. I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to the hose coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on, starting the engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about overpressuring the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps into the engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to accomplish this? There's always positive pressure on the system from the through-hull anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from upstream of the water pump, I'm safe. True? When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get antifreeze into the cooling system. Leanne |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
"Jeffrey P. Vasquez" wrote in message ... Hi all, I am advised to flush a raw-water cooling system on a Yanmar 2GM with fresh water. I have a couple of questions on execution to any kind soul that can offer some advice. I'm thinking of running a dock hose down and hooking it up to the hose coming off the through-hull intake, turning the faucet on, starting the engine and just letting it go. However, I'm concerned about overpressuring the system and filling the water lift to the point it dumps into the engine. Is this a valid concern? Is there a better way to accomplish this? There's always positive pressure on the system from the through-hull anyway, so I'm assuming as long as I'm pressurizing it from upstream of the water pump, I'm safe. True? When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get antifreeze into the cooling system. Leanne |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
you wanna do that BE SURE your engine is running. Otherwise, you will fill
your waterlife muffler until it overflows back into the exhaust manifold and down one or more of the open exhaust valves, to either hydrolock when you start the engine or seize the engine with salt water corrosion interally. When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get antifreeze into the cooling system. Leanne |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
you wanna do that BE SURE your engine is running. Otherwise, you will fill
your waterlife muffler until it overflows back into the exhaust manifold and down one or more of the open exhaust valves, to either hydrolock when you start the engine or seize the engine with salt water corrosion interally. When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get antifreeze into the cooling system. Leanne |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 23:17:52 -0500, "Leanne" wrote:
When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get antifreeze into the cooling system. Leanne If one were to introduce fresh water from the hose to a T after the salt water strainer (with a valve in the fresh water inlet, of course, to shut off when not flushing), many good things would happen at once. You'd be providing fresh water in the intake of the engine water pump.....flushing the engine. You'd be BACKFLUSHING the intake system and strainer, probably blowing out the crap in the strainer back overboard. The backflushing of the intake with fresh water would eliminate any "pressure" from the hose as the system would be wide open to the sea. There wouldn't be any pressure to worry about. In all honesty, this isn't my idea. My Mercury Sport Jet 175 in my Sea Ray Sea Rayder F16XR2 is fresh water flushed this way. The only difference is it has no water pump to buy impellers for. 35 PSI of seawater pressurizes the water jacket from the BIG pump under the stern. It simply has a pipe pointing into the 60 gallons per second pressurized water stream just aft of the stator inside the nozzle's pressure chamber. There's no reason not to put a T with a ball valve to the fresh water hose tap in the hose between the strainer and the water pump. I, personally, like the idea of flushing out the salt in ANY cooling system after use. Most yachtsmen, who are too lazy to eliminate the water ingestion into their diesel tanks by filling them after use, wouldn't flush the engine, either. To many, engines are just disposables, anyway. The water jacket, all its fittings and the main jet pump on "Tess Tickles Too", after 6 years of salt water use, look just like the first day I launched it.....just because it's flushed after each use before being stored. It's stupid to leave salt corroding away the inside of an expensive diesel engine, eating away at the zinc pencils, when you're not using it..... Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 23:17:52 -0500, "Leanne" wrote:
When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get antifreeze into the cooling system. Leanne If one were to introduce fresh water from the hose to a T after the salt water strainer (with a valve in the fresh water inlet, of course, to shut off when not flushing), many good things would happen at once. You'd be providing fresh water in the intake of the engine water pump.....flushing the engine. You'd be BACKFLUSHING the intake system and strainer, probably blowing out the crap in the strainer back overboard. The backflushing of the intake with fresh water would eliminate any "pressure" from the hose as the system would be wide open to the sea. There wouldn't be any pressure to worry about. In all honesty, this isn't my idea. My Mercury Sport Jet 175 in my Sea Ray Sea Rayder F16XR2 is fresh water flushed this way. The only difference is it has no water pump to buy impellers for. 35 PSI of seawater pressurizes the water jacket from the BIG pump under the stern. It simply has a pipe pointing into the 60 gallons per second pressurized water stream just aft of the stator inside the nozzle's pressure chamber. There's no reason not to put a T with a ball valve to the fresh water hose tap in the hose between the strainer and the water pump. I, personally, like the idea of flushing out the salt in ANY cooling system after use. Most yachtsmen, who are too lazy to eliminate the water ingestion into their diesel tanks by filling them after use, wouldn't flush the engine, either. To many, engines are just disposables, anyway. The water jacket, all its fittings and the main jet pump on "Tess Tickles Too", after 6 years of salt water use, look just like the first day I launched it.....just because it's flushed after each use before being stored. It's stupid to leave salt corroding away the inside of an expensive diesel engine, eating away at the zinc pencils, when you're not using it..... Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 22:32:38 -0400, "Ken Heaton"
wrote: We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season. This is the recommended method. You can make it easier by putting a Y-valve above the thru-hull, The hose on the Y can have a garden hose end on it and can be looped above the waterline if you are paranoid. An added, if emergency, benefit of this is that you can wrap some sort of strainer (a piece of nylon mesh, whatever) on the end of this and in an emergency can use this hose to drain your bilges using the engine's water pump. It's not as motivated as a man with a bucket, but it will go longer while you are dealing with getting the boat in order. R. |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 22:32:38 -0400, "Ken Heaton"
wrote: We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season. This is the recommended method. You can make it easier by putting a Y-valve above the thru-hull, The hose on the Y can have a garden hose end on it and can be looped above the waterline if you are paranoid. An added, if emergency, benefit of this is that you can wrap some sort of strainer (a piece of nylon mesh, whatever) on the end of this and in an emergency can use this hose to drain your bilges using the engine's water pump. It's not as motivated as a man with a bucket, but it will go longer while you are dealing with getting the boat in order. R. |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
larry, do that as you suggest on a Yanmar with a waterlift muffler and you will
cause some expensive to repair damage. On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 23:17:52 -0500, "Leanne" wrote: When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get antifreeze into the cooling system. Leanne If one were to introduce fresh water from the hose to a T after the salt water strainer (with a valve in the fresh water inlet, of course, to shut off when not flushing), many good things would happen at once. You'd be providing fresh water in the intake of the engine water pump.....flushing the engine. You'd be BACKFLUSHING the intake system and strainer, probably blowing out the crap in the strainer back overboard. The backflushing of the intake with fresh water would eliminate any "pressure" from the hose as the system would be wide open to the sea. There wouldn't be any pressure to worry about. In all honesty, this isn't my idea. My Mercury Sport Jet 175 in my Sea Ray Sea Rayder F16XR2 is fresh water flushed this way. The only difference is it has no water pump to buy impellers for. 35 PSI of seawater pressurizes the water jacket from the BIG pump under the stern. It simply has a pipe pointing into the 60 gallons per second pressurized water stream just aft of the stator inside the nozzle's pressure chamber. There's no reason not to put a T with a ball valve to the fresh water hose tap in the hose between the strainer and the water pump. I, personally, like the idea of flushing out the salt in ANY cooling system after use. Most yachtsmen, who are too lazy to eliminate the water ingestion into their diesel tanks by filling them after use, wouldn't flush the engine, either. To many, engines are just disposables, anyway. The water jacket, all its fittings and the main jet pump on "Tess Tickles Too", after 6 years of salt water use, look just like the first day I launched it.....just because it's flushed after each use before being stored. It's stupid to leave salt corroding away the inside of an expensive diesel engine, eating away at the zinc pencils, when you're not using it..... Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
larry, do that as you suggest on a Yanmar with a waterlift muffler and you will
cause some expensive to repair damage. On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 23:17:52 -0500, "Leanne" wrote: When we were running the Volvo that was raw water cooled, there was an attachment, in the water line inboard of the strainer that allowed for flushing. About a quarter turn on the fresh water hose was sufficient for enough cooling. It also worked when you went to the hard for the winter as it was an easy way to get antifreeze into the cooling system. Leanne If one were to introduce fresh water from the hose to a T after the salt water strainer (with a valve in the fresh water inlet, of course, to shut off when not flushing), many good things would happen at once. You'd be providing fresh water in the intake of the engine water pump.....flushing the engine. You'd be BACKFLUSHING the intake system and strainer, probably blowing out the crap in the strainer back overboard. The backflushing of the intake with fresh water would eliminate any "pressure" from the hose as the system would be wide open to the sea. There wouldn't be any pressure to worry about. In all honesty, this isn't my idea. My Mercury Sport Jet 175 in my Sea Ray Sea Rayder F16XR2 is fresh water flushed this way. The only difference is it has no water pump to buy impellers for. 35 PSI of seawater pressurizes the water jacket from the BIG pump under the stern. It simply has a pipe pointing into the 60 gallons per second pressurized water stream just aft of the stator inside the nozzle's pressure chamber. There's no reason not to put a T with a ball valve to the fresh water hose tap in the hose between the strainer and the water pump. I, personally, like the idea of flushing out the salt in ANY cooling system after use. Most yachtsmen, who are too lazy to eliminate the water ingestion into their diesel tanks by filling them after use, wouldn't flush the engine, either. To many, engines are just disposables, anyway. The water jacket, all its fittings and the main jet pump on "Tess Tickles Too", after 6 years of salt water use, look just like the first day I launched it.....just because it's flushed after each use before being stored. It's stupid to leave salt corroding away the inside of an expensive diesel engine, eating away at the zinc pencils, when you're not using it..... Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
hey, you guys, kindly knock it off. You don't have a clew what you are talking
about in this case. Leanne, it will cost you several thousand dollars to repair the damage there guys are trying to do to your engine. Just send me $2,000 (in used bills, please) and I will walk over to St Patrick's cathedral and light a candle for you. That way you will save a LOT of money over a rebuild. We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season. This is the recommended method. You can make it easier by putting a Y-valve above the thru-hull, The hose on the Y can have a garden hose end on it and can be looped above the waterline if you are paranoid. An added, if emergency, benefit of this is that you can wrap some sort of strainer (a piece of nylon mesh, whatever) on the end of this and in an emergency can use this hose to drain your bilges using the engine's water pump. It's not as motivated as a man with a bucket, but it will go longer while you are dealing with getting the boat in order. R. |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
hey, you guys, kindly knock it off. You don't have a clew what you are talking
about in this case. Leanne, it will cost you several thousand dollars to repair the damage there guys are trying to do to your engine. Just send me $2,000 (in used bills, please) and I will walk over to St Patrick's cathedral and light a candle for you. That way you will save a LOT of money over a rebuild. We usually do this by extending the thru hull hose with another short piece of hose up into a 5 gallon bucket set in the cockpit. We then start the engine and let the raw water pump move the water through. We keep the bucket full by leaving the dock hose running into the bucket, if it overflows it just runs out the cockpit drains. No chance of over-pressurising anything or damaging your raw water pump. As we live in Canada and so have to winterise this system, we then throw some antifreeze into the bucket and let that pump through until it starts to come out the exhaust, shut it down and that's it for the season. This is the recommended method. You can make it easier by putting a Y-valve above the thru-hull, The hose on the Y can have a garden hose end on it and can be looped above the waterline if you are paranoid. An added, if emergency, benefit of this is that you can wrap some sort of strainer (a piece of nylon mesh, whatever) on the end of this and in an emergency can use this hose to drain your bilges using the engine's water pump. It's not as motivated as a man with a bucket, but it will go longer while you are dealing with getting the boat in order. R. |
Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
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Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
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Fresh-water flushing a raw water system?
*pressure* water into the raw water intake can indeed overfill the waterlift
muffler once the engine is not running, and it doesn't take long. As far as "cleaning out" the cooling system by flushing after use, that just doesn't play. The cooling system gets clogged up by a.) "carbonates" loosely meaning the various salts that plate out on the cooling system walls as hot salt water (which has LOTs minerals in it), and b.) crud -- like silt -- that falls out of the water as it flows through the cooling system. And Yanmar raw water cooled engines were more suseptable to both a.) and b.) than other raw water cooled engines of the era. And again, do NOT turn pressure water on when the engine is not running. Better is to run the water into a 5-gallon bucket and suck it from the bucket into the engine. your explanation was not clear that the engine MUST be running. On 27 Jan 2004 15:22:20 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote: larry, do that as you suggest on a Yanmar with a waterlift muffler and you will cause some expensive to repair damage. How? The engine is RUNNING during the flush. Feeding fresh water into the stream into the RUNNING water pump simply replaces salt with fresh. Any fresh water not pumped into the engine by the engine's OWN water pump (whos impeller, by the way, meters how much water it passes because my way has no hose pressure on it to speak of)...any excess fresh water is simply fed backwards through the seawater strainer, probably clearing it of the crap and run overboard unless the intake or strainer is clogged, of course. As the engine is RUNNING, there is no waterbox flooding or exhaust backup because of the exhaust pressure of the engine. No excessive water pressure is applied to the engine, any more than the water the seawater pump on the engine imparts on it. How's it going to destroy the engine this way. Simply turn off the hose as soon as you stop the engine......before the seawater is pumped through it, again. You'd probably NEVER have to flush or core the cooling system if you did it every time you used it.....even on closed systems with a heat exchanger! Larry W4CSC Is it just me or did the US and UK just capture 1/3 of the world's sweetest oil supply? What idiot wants to GIVE IT BACK?!! |
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