Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
By way of follow-up for those souls yet to encounter this issue:
The Problem: Upon changing out the hardened rubber impeller in the water pump of the Yanmar 2GM inline diesel on the 1989 S2 (no vanes broken, just maintenance), the engine began to overheat. Subsequent investigation showed zero flow through the water pump, even though manually turning the pump pulley would rotate the impeller and the pulley was being driven by the belt under direct observation. The Cause: Apparently the fresh rubber on the new impeller provided sufficient additional friction against the cam to cause the (probably already failing) keyed pulley slot to fail. More succinctly, the pulley is not secured via any sort of friction fastening; it simply slides onto the shaft, which seats into a kind of "keyed" opening in the pulley and the mounting bolt snugs to the shaft moreso than the pulley itself. Upon replacing the impeller, this keyed open failed and was augered out by the shaft, but not completely. Turning the pulley by hand did not generate sufficient force for the pulley to shear and stop rotating the shaft, but at a couple hundred rpms, it would immediately shear and the pulley would spin freely on the pump shaft. Removal of the pulley revealed the slightly routed pulley opening (not particularly obvious, I had to resort to a caliper just to assure myself) and metal shavings on the shaft bearing casing (obvious). The Solution: Replacement of the pulley cured the issue completely. Thank you, Mr. Biv, for diagnosing this issue for me! === Just for laughs, because my life is a party: Of course, upon replacing the pulley and starting the engine it began to overheat after several minutes of operation. Predictably. Troubleshooting the pump issue as before, flow through the pump was observed to be nominal. In fact, better pressure than ever. Following the flow downstream of the pump, the thermostat (more accurately, the remaining metal that was thermostat- shaped) was seen to be frozen in a partially opened position that allowed some flow. Until the impeller was replaced and the stronger flow dislodged whatever solids were maintaining there position with the old impeller and lodged securely in the thermostat outlet, clogging it completely. Nota bene: While there theoretically shouldn't be an issue with a Yanmar 2GM in a salt-water environment provided the cathodic protection is properly maintained, you probably want to check your raw-water cooling system through-hull to exhaust more frequently than never. Incidentally, for informational purposes, the Yanmar 2GMF is the fresh-water cooled version of this engine that is normally found in marine applications. The S2 was built and launched on the Great Lakes, hence raw-water cooling. Regards, |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Problem water pump Yanmar 2GM | Cruising | |||
yanmar ysb12 water pump | Boat Building | |||
Where to find ramp stories? | General | |||
Fresh Water Tank | Cruising |