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#1
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cheoy lee 47 pedrick
hi,
i am thinking of purchasing a cheoy lee 47 pedrick for extended cruising and i would appreciate feedback and and thoughts regarding this vessel thank you brian s. mantis |
#2
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cheoy lee 47 pedrick
My last boat was a Cheoy Lee Cipper 33 and I have followed the Cheoy Lee
boats since the '60 when I use to go to their boat yard in Hong Kong and dream of owning one.. (I was in the US Navy at the time) I had my Cheoy Lee for 8 years and was the 2nd owner.. About the only general comment that I would make would be regarding their low grade of stainless steel for chain plates and a few of the other SS fittings. Can you tell about the age of the Cheoy Lee your considering and I might be able to comment further.. Also does it have teak decks or teak overlay on the cabin truck, etc. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#3
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cheoy lee 47 pedrick
My last boat was a Cheoy Lee Cipper 33 and I have followed the Cheoy Lee
boats since the '60 when I use to go to their boat yard in Hong Kong and dream of owning one.. (I was in the US Navy at the time) I had my Cheoy Lee for 8 years and was the 2nd owner.. About the only general comment that I would make would be regarding their low grade of stainless steel for chain plates and a few of the other SS fittings. Can you tell about the age of the Cheoy Lee your considering and I might be able to comment further.. Also does it have teak decks or teak overlay on the cabin truck, etc. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#4
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cheoy lee 47 pedrick
Be careful of the teak decks.
Bill "Brian S. Mantis" wrote in message ... hi, i am thinking of purchasing a cheoy lee 47 pedrick for extended cruising and i would appreciate feedback and and thoughts regarding this vessel thank you brian s. mantis |
#5
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cheoy lee 47 pedrick
Be careful of the teak decks.
Bill "Brian S. Mantis" wrote in message ... hi, i am thinking of purchasing a cheoy lee 47 pedrick for extended cruising and i would appreciate feedback and and thoughts regarding this vessel thank you brian s. mantis |
#6
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cheoy lee 47 pedrick
Why is that?
"Bill" wrote in message ... Be careful of the teak decks. Bill "Brian S. Mantis" wrote in message ... hi, i am thinking of purchasing a cheoy lee 47 pedrick for extended cruising and i would appreciate feedback and and thoughts regarding this vessel thank you brian s. mantis |
#7
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cheoy lee 47 pedrick
Why is that?
"Bill" wrote in message ... Be careful of the teak decks. Bill "Brian S. Mantis" wrote in message ... hi, i am thinking of purchasing a cheoy lee 47 pedrick for extended cruising and i would appreciate feedback and and thoughts regarding this vessel thank you brian s. mantis |
#8
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cheoy lee 47 pedrick
"Tom Foppiano" wrote in message ... Why is that? "Bill" wrote in message ... Be careful of the teak decks. I can address that or at least my experience with Cheoy Lee teak decks. The original thickness of the teak overlay is only about 1/2" and bedded and screwed down to the glass deck. On my boat the screws were machine screws tapped into the glass and into the ply core. Everything was fine for the first 12 years but once the deck had warn down about 1/8" the screw hole plugs started popping out, exposing the screw head. Now the screw hole is not deep enough to put a new plug in it, the srew can't be removed without breaking off. So you I ended up with about 50 open screw heads where water would accumulate. Also at the sametime the seam filler started pulling away for the the edge of the seam. Every year I had to reef about 10 ft of seam, prime and refill with polysulfide seam filler. As might be expected with these failures, eventually some water might get under the teak.. I don't know what type of adhesive/sealant was used to bed the teak to the glass, but eventually it will desolve due to age or when perpetually wet.. Over time this bedding compound becomes syrupy and ozzes out where ever it can. Over a three year period, I was finally able to catch up with the problem of filling screw holes with epoxy (couldnt keep plugs it them) and refilling the bad seems. I then sold the boat and warned the new owner to keep up with the seam repairs.. He didn't and when he finally sold the boat 4 years later, the old problem was evident.. IMHO I believe that if a boat is going to have a teak overlay deck, it shoud be at least 5/8" thick so the screws can be counter sunk deeper and the seams are deep enough to hold the seam filler as the deck gets thinner from traffic or maintenance scrubbing and sanding. I also had problems with the teak overlay on the cabin truck.. It was only 3/8" thick when finished.. Over time the moisture would start wicking in around the edges and soon the bond would deteriorated.. All though there never was a complete failure, I had several noticable cracks when it dried out during summer.. -- My opinion and experience. FWIW Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#9
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cheoy lee 47 pedrick
"Tom Foppiano" wrote in message ... Why is that? "Bill" wrote in message ... Be careful of the teak decks. I can address that or at least my experience with Cheoy Lee teak decks. The original thickness of the teak overlay is only about 1/2" and bedded and screwed down to the glass deck. On my boat the screws were machine screws tapped into the glass and into the ply core. Everything was fine for the first 12 years but once the deck had warn down about 1/8" the screw hole plugs started popping out, exposing the screw head. Now the screw hole is not deep enough to put a new plug in it, the srew can't be removed without breaking off. So you I ended up with about 50 open screw heads where water would accumulate. Also at the sametime the seam filler started pulling away for the the edge of the seam. Every year I had to reef about 10 ft of seam, prime and refill with polysulfide seam filler. As might be expected with these failures, eventually some water might get under the teak.. I don't know what type of adhesive/sealant was used to bed the teak to the glass, but eventually it will desolve due to age or when perpetually wet.. Over time this bedding compound becomes syrupy and ozzes out where ever it can. Over a three year period, I was finally able to catch up with the problem of filling screw holes with epoxy (couldnt keep plugs it them) and refilling the bad seems. I then sold the boat and warned the new owner to keep up with the seam repairs.. He didn't and when he finally sold the boat 4 years later, the old problem was evident.. IMHO I believe that if a boat is going to have a teak overlay deck, it shoud be at least 5/8" thick so the screws can be counter sunk deeper and the seams are deep enough to hold the seam filler as the deck gets thinner from traffic or maintenance scrubbing and sanding. I also had problems with the teak overlay on the cabin truck.. It was only 3/8" thick when finished.. Over time the moisture would start wicking in around the edges and soon the bond would deteriorated.. All though there never was a complete failure, I had several noticable cracks when it dried out during summer.. -- My opinion and experience. FWIW Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#10
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cheoy lee 47 pedrick
"Steve" wrote in message ... I can address that or at least my experience with Cheoy Lee teak decks. The original thickness of the teak overlay is only about 1/2" and bedded and screwed down to the glass deck. On my boat the screws were machine screws tapped into the glass and into the ply core. Steve, we have a friend here that had the teak overlay problem and fixed it by removing it, sealing the deck and then used Treadmaster to replace it. I have the same on my Fisher and love it, but it is hard on bare feet. Leanne |
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