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Tilley Wick
When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was
wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? I'm Ted Bell! |
Tilley Wick
Ted Bell wrote:
When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? I'm Ted Bell! Perhaps a hot air gun would be safer! If you are on a mooring of course you have fewer options, Dennis. |
Tilley Wick
"Ted Bell" wrote in message ... When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? No but I have warmed a reluctant deisel with a blow lamp before now, heat inlet manifold and then crank. Another tip is to cover, if you can, the inlet port which can make the engine spin a lot faster, remove the blockage and inertia helps to start it. -- Chris, West Cork, Ireland. |
Tilley Wick
"Dennis Pogson" wrote:
Ted Bell wrote: When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? I'm Ted Bell! Perhaps a hot air gun would be safer! If you are on a mooring of course you have fewer options, We use block heaters for our diesel cars. I've also heard of just using a light bulb under the hood. It depends on what "very cold" means to you. Maybe a solar panel connected to the engine block would do it. The truckers do something similar with their engines - I think they use ether or something. |
Tilley Wick
In article , Cerumen
wrote: "Ted Bell" wrote in message ... When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? No but I have warmed a reluctant deisel with a blow lamp before now, heat inlet manifold and then crank. Another tip is to cover, if you can, the inlet port which can make the engine spin a lot faster, remove the blockage and inertia helps to start it. Usually easier and less likely to cause problems - pull the 'Engine Stop' decompressor for a second while the engine builds speed/inertia then release. This sometimes gets you going if the batteries are a bit low. A cautious squirt of ether can help too but mustn't be overdone. Cheerio, -- Fishing: http://www.fishing.casterbridge.net/ Writing: http://www.author.casterbridge.net/derek-moody/ uk.rec.fishing.game Badge Page: http://www.fishing.casterbridge.net/urfg/ |
Tilley Wick
"Cerumen" wrote in message ... "Ted Bell" wrote in message ... When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? No but I have warmed a reluctant deisel with a blow lamp before now, heat inlet manifold and then crank. Another tip is to cover, if you can, the inlet port which can make the engine spin a lot faster, remove the blockage and inertia helps to start it. -- Chris, West Cork, Ireland. If I've read it right a diesel compresses the air to a very great extent. The compression heats the air so much that fuel self-ignites when injected into the hot air. Even if it's very cold it's my understanding the compressed air is still hot enough to ignite the fuel. So it seems to me if the fuel doesn't ignite maybe it's because it's so cold and thick that the injectors don't spray it in properly. Maybe just dribbles of larger droplets that are reluctant to burn. So heating the injectors seems like it would take care of that problem. Sort of the same principle that a pressure diesel stove uses to pre-heat the fuel. Meths don't burn all that hot so although it might blacken the paint I can't see where it would damage the injector. I think I'll give it a go. .. . Thanks to all who responded. I'm Ted Bell! |
Tilley Wick
Ted Bell wrote:
If I've read it right a diesel compresses the air to a very great extent. The compression heats the air so much that fuel self-ignites when injected into the hot air. Even if it's very cold it's my understanding the compressed air is still hot enough to ignite the fuel. So it seems to me if the fuel doesn't ignite maybe it's because it's so cold and thick that the injectors don't spray it in properly. It is more common, particularly on engines well past their youth, that compression is not as good as it should be. The result is that the compressed air doesn't get hot enough quickly enough at low revs in a cold engine block. This seems a likelier scenario than the fuel being too viscous at low temperature to disperse properly. Maybe just dribbles of larger droplets that are reluctant to burn. So heating the injectors seems like it would take care of that problem. Sort of the same principle that a pressure diesel stove uses to pre-heat the fuel. Meths don't burn all that hot so although it might blacken the paint I can't see where it would damage the injector. I think I'll give it a go. Many engines are fitted with electric glow-plug preheaters. I don't think they heat the injectors, but part of the combustion chamber. On some engines, electric heater coils are located within the air intake. This is an easy option to retro-fit (unlike glowplugs which really need to be designed in from the start), and Bukh, for instance, offer this option and I can vouch for how well it works. They basically preheat the air, so that it's already warmer before it gets heated by being compressed. The result is that the compression heats the air up to an even higher temperature, making it more likely that the engine will fire sooner. I would recommend that if you want to have a go, it would be a better idea to heat up the air intake than the injectors. |
Tilley Wick
Derek Moody wrote in news:ant051635965BxcK@half-
baked-idea.co.uk: A cautious squirt of ether can help too but mustn't be overdone. Not enough can be said for NOT squirting explosives into the intake of a small, LIGHTLY MADE diesel engine. DON'T DO THIS! Notice it says not to do this right in the manual! Big, giant diesels that weigh tons can withstand the occasional blast of ether exploding BEFORE the piston reaches TDC, which tries to push the piston down in the direction it was coming from. Little light diesels, like the one in your sailboat CANNOT. Premature explosions from ether or "starting fluid" from auto stores in a spray can WILL, not may, detonate on the compression stroke. You'll hear a loud knock, if you get away with it. You'll hear a loud bang if it blows the head gasket or blows the head off or breaks the little aluminum piston. Diesels run on the heat of compression. There are two ways of artificially creating this SAFELY when they are cold.....preheat the cylinders, preferably with glow plugs...or preheat the air, preferably with an air pre-heater in the intake. HEATING THE FUEL DOES NOT MAKE THEM START! Diesel fuel explodes because it is finely sprayed into superheated compressed AIR caused by the heat of compression....22:1 or more compression. (Remember how hot the bicycle pump cylinder got pumping up the tire?) The heat gun is a great idea if you have a power source to run it from. Let's avoid lighting fires in the engine compartment fumes of fuel and battery hydrogen to crank them, ok? Thanks! The usual reason why they won't start is THE COMPRESSION IS TOO LOW or THE ENGINE DOESN'T SPIN FAST ENOUGH....both of which, of course, require corrections that cost $$$$. Gas engines will run with worn rings, poorly closing valves, leaky head gaskets.....diesels will NOT.... Larry -- We tried to tell you to change the oil every 100 hours or THREE MONTHS....(sigh) |
Tilley Wick
"Larry" wrote in message ... Derek Moody wrote in news:ant051635965BxcK@half- baked-idea.co.uk: A cautious squirt of ether can help too but mustn't be overdone. Not enough can be said for NOT squirting explosives into the intake of a small, LIGHTLY MADE diesel engine. DON'T DO THIS! Notice it says not to do this right in the manual! Big, giant diesels that weigh tons can withstand the occasional blast of ether exploding BEFORE the piston reaches TDC, which tries to push the piston down in the direction it was coming from. Little light diesels, like the one in your sailboat CANNOT. Premature explosions from ether or "starting fluid" from auto stores in a spray can WILL, not may, detonate on the compression stroke. You'll hear a loud knock, if you get away with it. You'll hear a loud bang if it blows the head gasket or blows the head off or breaks the little aluminum piston. Diesels run on the heat of compression. There are two ways of artificially creating this SAFELY when they are cold.....preheat the cylinders, preferably with glow plugs...or preheat the air, preferably with an air pre-heater in the intake. HEATING THE FUEL DOES NOT MAKE THEM START! Diesel fuel explodes because it is finely sprayed into superheated compressed AIR caused by the heat of compression....22:1 or more compression. (Remember how hot the bicycle pump cylinder got pumping up the tire?) The heat gun is a great idea if you have a power source to run it from. Let's avoid lighting fires in the engine compartment fumes of fuel and battery hydrogen to crank them, ok? Thanks! The usual reason why they won't start is THE COMPRESSION IS TOO LOW or THE ENGINE DOESN'T SPIN FAST ENOUGH....both of which, of course, require corrections that cost $$$$. Gas engines will run with worn rings, poorly closing valves, leaky head gaskets.....diesels will NOT.... Larry -- We tried to tell you to change the oil every 100 hours or THREE MONTHS....(sigh) Another possibility is that the oil is too heavy for cold weather. Don't know how well multi-viscosity oils work in diesels, but maybe changing to a lighter weight would help. And removing 20 years of built-up sludge... ;-) While possibly not recommended, a friend with a diesel Mercedes of ancient vintage once had me spray WD-40 into his engine intake while he cranked the motor. Being essentially kerosene, this would be much safer than ether, I think. |
Tilley Wick
"Ted Bell" wrote in news:eshhk2$mji$1
@aioe.org: Even if it's very cold it's my understanding the compressed air is still hot enough to ignite the fuel. As long as there is proper compression, you're absolutely right. Test the compression on a COLD engine, not hot, to see if it has enough pressure on ALL cylinders. So it seems to me if the fuel doesn't ignite maybe it's because it's so cold and thick that the injectors don't spray it in properly. Maybe just dribbles of larger droplets that are reluctant to burn. Well, this sounds good but is very hard to achieve. If diesel fuel is NOT properly "winterized" by mixing it with light elements, WAX CRYSTALS form in the diesel fuel making it impossible to pump. It doesn't "thicken", it turns to a SOLID! You can heat the whole fuel system and keep it from waxing up. In boats, the problem is the cheapskate sailors use so little fuel, they only buy it in SUMMER when it's not winterized, which costs the fuel companies extra money. Winter comes, the tanks are full of unwinterized diesel he "saved" by not burning it. It turns to wax in the cold and the engine won't crank as it has no fuel...the fuel system blocked by the wax until Spring. He's ****ed and needs someone to blame. What he SHOULD have done was to burn the tank dry before it got too cold and refilled it in the Fall with WINTERIZED diesel fuel, which doesn't turn to jelly in the cold. Cheapskate didn't. Hell, he never fills his tanks and has water ingestion problems, too, storing it 1/4 full. Oh, the WATER in the tanks he never fills ALSO causes fuel starvation as IT freezes in the tanks, filters, low points of the lines, etc....another problem easily fixed. So heating the injectors seems like it would take care of that problem. Sort of the same principle that a pressure diesel stove uses to pre-heat the fuel. Meths don't burn all that hot so although it might blacken the paint I can't see where it would damage the injector. I think I'll give it a go. No, because he can't pump solid fuel into where the heated pump is as it's waxed up in the lines. The cure is WINTERIZED DIESEL FUEL, available after a certain date in that area. His tanks have summer diesel fuel in them full of wax crystals....cloudy on cool days, solid on cold. Please don't light any open fires in the engine compartment with the battery fumes, ok? We don't need any MORE excitement on boat newsgroups than the usual groundings.... Larry -- Have a little fun in the checkout line.... Ask the nearest American, "Did you see the ICE agents chasing those Mexicans out the back door?" ....Shortens that checkout line right up...(c; |
Tilley Wick
Ronald Raygun wrote in
. uk: Many engines are fitted with electric glow-plug preheaters. I don't think they heat the injectors, but part of the combustion chamber. Glow plugs are situated in the path of the spray pattern of the injector, usually in a pre-combustion chamber which not only makes the engine much easier to start, but much quieter to run. http://www.kenrockwell.com/190d/images/lvp.gif Here's the precombustion chamber of a Mercedes Benz 190D diesel. The glowplug is the gold pin right under the spray head. It heats red hot just before the engine starts, causing the fuel to explode reliably as soon as it is injected, by the injector directly above it. It continues to glow, as does the grey resonator under it while the engine is running, not by the electrical current, but by the last time the fuel exploded. The explosion happens in the precombustion chamber and an immense pressure pushes the explosion into the air charge down in the cylinder through those tiny holes, maybe 1/8" diameter, in a radial pattern on top of the piston to balance the pressure on the piston top. After 25 years of constant use, my '73 220D sedan's little 57hp diesel piston had 5 little tracks across the top of the piston showing where the explosion went by it at TDC on ever other stroke. I couldn't get over how small these holes are and how clean they stayed all those years when we overhauled it at about 250,000 miles. It really only needed new rings. Notice in MB cars, the whole chamber screws out so it can be easily replaced if it cracks under the pressure. Smart, very smart. All this is done to reduce the compression necessary to start it cold and run it QUIETLY in a nice car. It ran fine on vegetable oil going to breakfast with my old friends, this very morning...(c; Larry -- Have a little fun in the checkout line.... Ask the nearest American, "Did you see the ICE agents chasing those Mexicans out the back door?" ....Shortens that checkout line right up...(c; |
Tilley Wick
In article ,
"Ted Bell" wrote: When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? I'm Ted Bell! You don't need to heat the FUEL, you need to heat the AIR...... Bruce in alaska -- add a 2 before @ |
Tilley Wick
In article ,
Rosalie B. wrote: "Dennis Pogson" wrote: Ted Bell wrote: When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? I'm Ted Bell! Perhaps a hot air gun would be safer! If you are on a mooring of course you have fewer options, We use block heaters for our diesel cars. I've also heard of just using a light bulb under the hood. It depends on what "very cold" means to you. Maybe a solar panel connected to the engine block would do it. The truckers do something similar with their engines - I think they use ether or something. Starting Fluid (Ether) can be very BAD for diesel engines. It is NOT recommended for any diesel that has GlowPlugs, or Intake Manifold Heaters. Diesel Engines only need two things to run. FUEL, and Hot AIR. Hot Air is the easiest to come by. Politicos like diesels, as they ALWAYS have a lot of Hot AIR available....... Now back to the topic at hand. A little Propane Torch will emit plenty of HOT AIR, into ANY diesel engines Intake Manifold, to give you an easy start, clear down to -30F. Just remember, to remove the Air Filter, BEFORE you light the torch, as they tend to catch fire and burn up. Momma's Hair Dryer also works well for providing Hot AIR, to start cold diesels. Ever wonder why most LongHaul Truckers have Propane Torches and Hair Dryers in the Toolkits? 10,000 Truckers can't all be wrong. Bruce in alaska generates all my own power, via Diesel Gensets -- add a 2 before @ |
Tilley Wick
"Bruce in Alaska" wrote in message ... In article , "Ted Bell" wrote: When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? I'm Ted Bell! You don't need to heat the FUEL, you need to heat the AIR...... It seems like that's the majority opinion. But no matter how hot the air it won't burn all by itself. You must have atomized fuel injected into the hot air. All the suggestions about pre-heating the air only make sense provided the fuel hasn't turned to wax from the extreme cold. It's quite difficult to inject wax, I would think. Wax doesn't burn until it turns into a liquid. This is evident when one lights a candle. Once the motor runs for a bit it heats the fuel quite nicely because of the way it re-circulates it through the system. But what's to keep fuel that might not be winterized properly from clogging up the works before it gets warmed up? Maybe the answer is a fuel tank heater and a stout lever on the fuel pump to pump the warm fuel round. I'm Ted Bell! |
Tilley Wick
On Mon, 5 Mar 2007 11:48:05 -0500, "Ted Bell"
wrote: If I've read it right a diesel compresses the air to a very great extent. The compression heats the air so much that fuel self-ignites when injected into the hot air. Even if it's very cold it's my understanding the compressed air is still hot enough to ignite the fuel. So it seems to me if the fuel doesn't ignite maybe it's because it's so cold and thick that the injectors don't spray it in properly. Maybe just dribbles of larger droplets that are reluctant to burn. So heating the injectors seems like it would take care of that problem. Sort of the same principle that a pressure diesel stove uses to pre-heat the fuel. Meths don't burn all that hot so although it might blacken the paint I can't see where it would damage the injector. I think I'll give it a go. . . Thanks to all who responded. I'm Ted Bell! I don't think heating the accessible parts of the injectors will do much good - the nozzle is deep inside the head, and the body of the injector passes through metal immersed in the cooling water, so very little heat will make it to the injector nozzle. -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI Vancouver BC, Canada peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
Tilley Wick
Anti-gell works wonders in diesel fuel during cold winter months.
"Ted Bell" wrote in message ... "Bruce in Alaska" wrote in message ... In article , "Ted Bell" wrote: When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? I'm Ted Bell! You don't need to heat the FUEL, you need to heat the AIR...... It seems like that's the majority opinion. But no matter how hot the air it won't burn all by itself. You must have atomized fuel injected into the hot air. All the suggestions about pre-heating the air only make sense provided the fuel hasn't turned to wax from the extreme cold. It's quite difficult to inject wax, I would think. Wax doesn't burn until it turns into a liquid. This is evident when one lights a candle. Once the motor runs for a bit it heats the fuel quite nicely because of the way it re-circulates it through the system. But what's to keep fuel that might not be winterized properly from clogging up the works before it gets warmed up? Maybe the answer is a fuel tank heater and a stout lever on the fuel pump to pump the warm fuel round. I'm Ted Bell! |
Tilley Wick
KLC Lewis wrote:
Anti-gell works wonders in diesel fuel during cold winter months. "Ted Bell" wrote in message ... "Bruce in Alaska" wrote in message ... In article , "Ted Bell" wrote: When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? I'm Ted Bell! You don't need to heat the FUEL, you need to heat the AIR...... It seems like that's the majority opinion. But no matter how hot the air it won't burn all by itself. You must have atomized fuel injected into the hot air. All the suggestions about pre-heating the air only make sense provided the fuel hasn't turned to wax from the extreme cold. It's quite difficult to inject wax, I would think. Wax doesn't burn until it turns into a liquid. This is evident when one lights a candle. Once the motor runs for a bit it heats the fuel quite nicely because of the way it re-circulates it through the system. But what's to keep fuel that might not be winterized properly from clogging up the works before it gets warmed up? Maybe the answer is a fuel tank heater and a stout lever on the fuel pump to pump the warm fuel round. I'm Ted Bell! And speaking of using starting fluid, My neighbor was trying to start a turbo diesel backhoe with ether. Can you imagine a turbo full of ether? I stopped him before the explosion. G |
Tilley Wick
"KLC Lewis" wrote in
: While possibly not recommended, a friend with a diesel Mercedes of ancient vintage once had me spray WD-40 into his engine intake while he cranked the motor. Being essentially kerosene, this would be much safer than ether, I think. WD40 USED to be flammable...I don't think that's true, now. I use 15W-40 Rotella T in my cars/truck and the boats. Of course, it doesn't get that cold here. Ask Bruce in Alaska what they use up there, where the REAL test weather conditions occur...(shudder) Mercedes specifically forbids spraying ANY kind of starting fluid into the gullet of their diesel engines, which is just suicide waiting to happen. Your friend needed to get his GLOW PLUGS FIXED.... Larry -- Have a little fun in the checkout line.... Ask the nearest American, "Did you see the ICE agents chasing those Mexicans out the back door?" ....Shortens that checkout line right up...(c; |
Tilley Wick
"Larry" wrote in message ... "KLC Lewis" wrote in : While possibly not recommended, a friend with a diesel Mercedes of ancient vintage once had me spray WD-40 into his engine intake while he cranked the motor. Being essentially kerosene, this would be much safer than ether, I think. WD40 USED to be flammable...I don't think that's true, now. I use 15W-40 Rotella T in my cars/truck and the boats. Of course, it doesn't get that cold here. Ask Bruce in Alaska what they use up there, where the REAL test weather conditions occur...(shudder) Mercedes specifically forbids spraying ANY kind of starting fluid into the gullet of their diesel engines, which is just suicide waiting to happen. Your friend needed to get his GLOW PLUGS FIXED.... Larry -- Well, ya -- getting the glow plugs fixed would have helped, but would have put a crimp in his beer budget. |
Tilley Wick
In article , Larry
wrote: Derek Moody wrote in news:ant051635965BxcK@half- baked-idea.co.uk: A cautious squirt of ether can help too but mustn't be overdone. Not enough can be said for NOT squirting explosives into the intake of a small, LIGHTLY MADE diesel engine. DON'T DO THIS! Notice it says not to do this right in the manual! We appear to be talking about engines big enough to require starter motors, I agree that tiny one or two cylinder jobs wouldn't like it (I said a cautious squirt and into a fast spinning engine but you snipped that bit.) With a really small engine hand cranking to help the starter is a much better idea. Diesels run on the heat of compression. There are two ways of artificially creating this SAFELY when they are cold.....preheat the cylinders, preferably with glow plugs...or preheat the air, preferably with an air pre-heater in the intake. HEATING THE FUEL DOES NOT MAKE And if you have either fitted you don't need other heating... The heat gun is a great idea if you have a power source to run it from. As always there is a pay off between heated air (lower mass of air per inspired volume) and heat of compression. The engine block in winter is a massive lump of over-chilled heatsink, anything to get a little heat in there will help. The usual reason why they won't start is THE COMPRESSION IS TOO LOW or THE ENGINE DOESN'T SPIN FAST ENOUGH....both of which, of course, require If you have a small heater than it might be better used to warm your batteries to make sure you're getting maximum starter speed. Elsewhere in this thread are comments about winterising/waxing up of fuel. While this is all true for diesels in general I doubt it makes any noticeable difference to vessels afloat in British waters. The tank, engine compartment, and fuel lines are almost always at least partially below the water line and so rarely get much below harbour-water temperature which in turn will usually be above zero even in sal****er. I have never tried this but it occurs to me that a couple of kettles' full of hot water poured slowly over the block (might as well add detergent and break out a scrubbing brush) would transfer heat as well as anything. Cheerio, -- Fishing: http://www.fishing.casterbridge.net/ Writing: http://www.author.casterbridge.net/derek-moody/ uk.rec.fishing.game Badge Page: http://www.fishing.casterbridge.net/urfg/ |
Tilley Wick
In article , KLC Lewis
wrote: While possibly not recommended, a friend with a diesel Mercedes of ancient vintage once had me spray WD-40 into his engine intake while he cranked the motor. Being essentially kerosene, this would be much safer than ether, I think. It was probably the propellant that did the trick. Cheerio, -- Fishing: http://www.fishing.casterbridge.net/ Writing: http://www.author.casterbridge.net/derek-moody/ uk.rec.fishing.game Badge Page: http://www.fishing.casterbridge.net/urfg/ |
Tilley Wick
Not enough can be said for NOT squirting explosives into the intake of a small, LIGHTLY MADE diesel engine. DON'T DO THIS! Notice it says not to do this right in the manual! I worked in a Detroit shop when I was a kid. Mostly fisking boats and logging equipment/trucks. Got to do basic rebuilds on 53, 71, 92 series. The head mechanic took me asides and showed me two 6-71 engines in for a rebuild. One operator used ether regularly caus it was cheeper than a new charging system and new batteries. The other operator never used the stuff. It was stunning to comapre the two during de assymble! The heat gun is a great idea if you have a power source to run it from. Let's avoid lighting fires in the engine compartment fumes of fuel and battery hydrogen to crank them, ok? Thanks! Concure............................ " ...flames on boat.......bad." Suggest using the spay can to help start the grill you moved to the dock. Babbit Bob |
Tilley Wick
Derek Moody wrote in
: Not enough can be said for NOT squirting explosives into the intake of a small, LIGHTLY MADE diesel engine. DON'T DO THIS! Notice it says not to do this right in the manual! We appear to be talking about engines big enough to require starter motors, I agree that tiny one or two cylinder jobs wouldn't like it (I said a cautious squirt and into a fast spinning engine but you snipped that bit.) With a really small engine hand cranking to help the starter is a much better idea. Read someone else's reply to my paragraph about GM 6-71 and 8V-92 large diesels being overhauled. Ether starting is very hard on ANY diesel. Larry -- Have a little fun in the checkout line.... Ask the nearest American, "Did you see the ICE agents chasing those Mexicans out the back door?" ....Shortens that checkout line right up...(c; |
Tilley Wick
Larry wrote:
Derek Moody wrote in : Not enough can be said for NOT squirting explosives into the intake of a small, LIGHTLY MADE diesel engine. DON'T DO THIS! Notice it says not to do this right in the manual! We appear to be talking about engines big enough to require starter motors, I agree that tiny one or two cylinder jobs wouldn't like it (I said a cautious squirt and into a fast spinning engine but you snipped that bit.) With a really small engine hand cranking to help the starter is a much better idea. Read someone else's reply to my paragraph about GM 6-71 and 8V-92 large diesels being overhauled. Ether starting is very hard on ANY diesel. You said that there was a big difference, but didn't explicitly say which one was worse or in what way. Larry |
Tilley Wick
Rosalie B. wrote in
: You said that there was a big difference, but didn't explicitly say which one was worse or in what way. Slow turning large diesels tolerate ether much better than light-duty, fast turning diesels. Fast diesels are much more prone to the ether going off BEFORE TDC, which may cause piston or rod or crank failures. This cannot happen if you stop pouring FUEL down its air intake into the cylinders. There's PLENTY of heat to make fuel dumped down its air intake EXPLODE before TDC in any diesel, which is exactly why the instruction book forbids it....destroying the engine, either catastrophically by breaking something, or weakening it by causing undue stress on moving piston parts that fail prematurely later on. Repeated use of ether to crank it repeats the weakening until something lets go....usually through the side of the block...(c; Not good....don't do it. HEAT THE AIR....FIX THE LOW COMPRESSION! Larry -- Have a little fun in the checkout line.... Ask the nearest American, "Did you see the ICE agents chasing those Mexicans out the back door?" ....Shortens that checkout line right up...(c; |
Tilley Wick
In article ,
Larry wrote: Ask Bruce in Alaska what they use up there, where the REAL test weather conditions occur...(shudder) I use Chevron Delo400 15W40 in the Gensets. It works well, even down below 0F. The manual suggests 5W40 when below -20F, but I live next to Salt Water, and it rarely gets down that cold, here. Much easier to keep one type of BaseOil in Stock, when you can't just go down to the store and buy what you need. For the Rolling Stock, (vehicals) I am using Delo 100 15W40. Snowmobiles are all 2Cycle, so they use their own YamaLube II. Bruce in alaska who got the WebCam up and running yesterday...... -- add a 2 before @ |
Tilley Wick
On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 19:56:32 GMT, Bruce in Alaska
wrote: Bruce in alaska who got the WebCam up and running yesterday...... And the webcam URL is ?? |
Tilley Wick
In article ,
Wayne.B wrote: On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 19:56:32 GMT, Bruce in Alaska wrote: Bruce in alaska who got the WebCam up and running yesterday...... And the webcam URL is ?? It is on the Website www.99850.net...... Bruce in alaska -- add a 2 before @ |
Tilley Wick
On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 18:55:36 GMT, Bruce in Alaska
wrote: And the webcam URL is ?? It is on the Website www.99850.net...... Found it. Looks like it needs a UID/PW, and admin/admin is not home today. :-) Great pictures by the way, looks like you are the local power company and ISP all rolled into one. |
Tilley Wick
In article ,
Wayne.B wrote: On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 18:55:36 GMT, Bruce in Alaska wrote: And the webcam URL is ?? It is on the Website www.99850.net...... Found it. Looks like it needs a UID/PW, and admin/admin is not home today. :-) Great pictures by the way, looks like you are the local power company and ISP all rolled into one. Did you actually READ, the link? the Admin Name and Password are given right there.... and Yes, during the winter I am the Power Company, ISP, Postmaster, and a few other Hats..... None of which are made from TinFoil..... Bruce in alaska thanks on the pictures -- add a 2 before @ |
Tilley Wick
"Ted Bell" wrote in message ... When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? I'm Ted Bell! I was living in korea for a while with an older jeep cj-7 with a diesel conversion. The glow plugs were broken and i couldnt get replacements for winter. The temp got down to about -20C. I carried a small propane torch and the way i got it started (first crank every time) was to remove the air filter hose from the intake on the manifold and heat the air as it went in. There was no direct contact with the flame and any engine part, but the hot air warmed up the diesel fuel enough to make good things happen. got bored wiht it pretty quick, but a great trick to know. Shaun |
Tilley Wick
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Tilley Wick
In article , Duncan McC (NZ) wrote:
In article , says... "Ted Bell" wrote in message ... When it's very cold I have a hard time cranking my diesel. I was wondering if I put Tilley wicks saturated in meths around the injectors and lit them if it would warm up the injectors enough to vaporize the fuel better. Anybody ever try it? I'm Ted Bell! I was living in korea for a while with an older jeep cj-7 with a diesel conversion. The glow plugs were broken and i couldnt get replacements for winter. The temp got down to about -20C. I carried a small propane torch and the way i got it started (first crank every time) was to remove the air filter hose from the intake on the manifold and heat the air as it went in. There was no direct contact with the flame and any engine part, but the hot air warmed up the diesel fuel enough to make good things happen. got bored wiht it pretty quick, but a great trick to know. Why risk ingesting something into the combustion chamber? I have done similar with a burning bit of rag (soaked in diesel) and just held that infront of the air filter. It works. What you are doing is making the engine breathe warm air as it starts. You could accomplish the same thing with an electric hair dryer and have no fire risk. |
Tilley Wick
On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 18:32:27 GMT, Bruce in Alaska
wrote: Did you actually READ, the link? the Admin Name and Password are given right there.... And darned if it isn't.... ....hidden right there in plain sight. Dayyyummm, interesting security, changing the font color like that... :-) So where are the northern lights? |
Tilley Wick
In article ,
Wayne.B wrote: On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 18:32:27 GMT, Bruce in Alaska wrote: Did you actually READ, the link? the Admin Name and Password are given right there.... And darned if it isn't.... ...hidden right there in plain sight. Dayyyummm, interesting security, changing the font color like that... :-) So where are the northern lights? There, up in the sky.... It is just HARD to see them when we are getting 2 - 3 Inches of SNOW each night......somebody should COOK that famous GroundHawg back east, cause he can't predict weather up here... No way Spring is anywhere near coming here yet.... Bruce in alaska -- add a 2 before @ |
Tilley Wick
Well this may be a bit old fashioned but ill write it up any way's
we built insulated boxes round our engines out of tyvec and made a little door in which to place a 60 watt light bulb. when i had to start the mains once a month i would plug the light bulbs in a few days ahead of time. worked down to about -80 or so. when the mains started i would open the far side of the box from the intake so they could breath till the blocks warmed up. the gen sets i could keep warm on shore power, but the thrust master mains could be a bitch. |
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