|
Question for Peggy
Peggy,
I have a Lavac head that works great but the output pipe at the bottom is craked and comes out of the head itself. Is there somewhere that I can get a new part or is it time for a new head? Any info appreciated. Ansley Sawyer SV Pacem |
Question for Peggy
Ansley W. Sawyer wrote:
Peggy, I have a Lavac head that works great but the output pipe at the bottom is craked and comes out of the head itself. Is there somewhere that I can get a new part or is it time for a new head? Hi Ansley...sorry for the delay in responding...I just got back from the Newport Boat Show last night. If that part is replaceable, you should be able to get it from these folks: http://www.lavac.com/ That's not a link to Blake in the UK, but to a dealer in FL who managed to capture the Lavac domain name before Blake could. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327 http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Question for Peggy
Thanks Peggy,
I will keep you informed. Ansley Sawyer |
Question for Peggy
Dave wrote:
Was at the boat this weekend, and found that the seacock on my head's through-hull discharge was frozen in the closed position. The PO had disconnected the Y-valve to the through-hull, and just routed all discharge to the holding tank. I'm replacing hose, and am thinking of doing the same if it can't free up the seacock. If I do this is there any need for a vented loop? Another owner has one installed between the head discharge and the holding tank, and says it's to prevent siphoning back from the holding tank. Since the inlet to the holding tank is near the top, is this really a problem -- do I need a vented loop? On a powerboat, no....'cuz powerboats don't heel. But on a sailboat, if the inlet fitting on the tank is toward the hull instead of toward the centerline of the boat, a loop--though not necessarily a vented loop--is a good idea to prevent tank contents from running back toward the toilet when you're heeled. It's not necessary if the inlet and vent fittings are toward the centerline because waste in the tank runs to the side away from the fitting on one tack, the hoses run uphill on the other tack. Worth remembering when you spec out an installation. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Question for Peggy
Dave wrote:
Was at the boat this weekend, and found that the seacock on my head's through-hull discharge was frozen in the closed position. The PO had disconnected the Y-valve to the through-hull, and just routed all discharge to the holding tank. I'm replacing hose, and am thinking of doing the same if it can't free up the seacock. If I do this is there any need for a vented loop? Another owner has one installed between the head discharge and the holding tank, and says it's to prevent siphoning back from the holding tank. Since the inlet to the holding tank is near the top, is this really a problem -- do I need a vented loop? On a powerboat, no....'cuz powerboats don't heel. But on a sailboat, if the inlet fitting on the tank is toward the hull instead of toward the centerline of the boat, a loop--though not necessarily a vented loop--is a good idea to prevent tank contents from running back toward the toilet when you're heeled. It's not necessary if the inlet and vent fittings are toward the centerline because waste in the tank runs to the side away from the fitting on one tack, the hoses run uphill on the other tack. Worth remembering when you spec out an installation. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Question for Peggy
Peggie Hall writes:
On a powerboat, no....'cuz powerboats don't heel. But on a sailboat, if the inlet fitting on the tank is toward the hull instead of toward the centerline of the boat, a loop--though not necessarily a vented loop--is a good idea to prevent tank contents from running back toward the toilet when you're heeled. It's not necessary if the inlet and vent fittings are toward the centerline because waste in the tank runs to the side away from the fitting on one tack, the hoses run uphill on the other tack. Worth remembering when you spec out an installation. -- Peggie Peggie, thanks for all the great work you are doing! I read may of your postings in different forums and benefitted a lot from your knowledge in the installation of my holding tank. However, this one I don't understand. When I read it first I thought 'shoot, my fittings are on the wrong side' since they are towards the hull. But then I thought again and I don't see what's wrong about it. Why is holding tank contents more likely to run out of the tank with the fittings towards the hull than towards the centerline? Let's say the fittings are on the hull side on the port side (as in my case). Then, at a certain heel angle to port, the level of liquids inside the tank will reach the fitting and overflow may occur (yuck). But if the fittings were towards the centerline, why wouldn't the same occur when the boat heels by exactly the same angle to starboard?? --Ernst Columbia 32 |
Question for Peggy
Peggie Hall writes:
On a powerboat, no....'cuz powerboats don't heel. But on a sailboat, if the inlet fitting on the tank is toward the hull instead of toward the centerline of the boat, a loop--though not necessarily a vented loop--is a good idea to prevent tank contents from running back toward the toilet when you're heeled. It's not necessary if the inlet and vent fittings are toward the centerline because waste in the tank runs to the side away from the fitting on one tack, the hoses run uphill on the other tack. Worth remembering when you spec out an installation. -- Peggie Peggie, thanks for all the great work you are doing! I read may of your postings in different forums and benefitted a lot from your knowledge in the installation of my holding tank. However, this one I don't understand. When I read it first I thought 'shoot, my fittings are on the wrong side' since they are towards the hull. But then I thought again and I don't see what's wrong about it. Why is holding tank contents more likely to run out of the tank with the fittings towards the hull than towards the centerline? Let's say the fittings are on the hull side on the port side (as in my case). Then, at a certain heel angle to port, the level of liquids inside the tank will reach the fitting and overflow may occur (yuck). But if the fittings were towards the centerline, why wouldn't the same occur when the boat heels by exactly the same angle to starboard?? --Ernst Columbia 32 |
Question for Peggy
Why is holding tank contents more likely to run out of the tank with the fittings towards the hull than towards the centerline? Let's say the fittings are on the hull side on the port side (as in my case). Then, at a certain heel angle to port, the level of liquids inside the tank will reach the fitting and overflow may occur (yuck). Yep...because stuff runs downhill...So when you're heeled to port, if fittings are on the port side of the tank, contents can spill out the vent or run back toward a head on the port side. But if the tank fittings are toward the centerline, contents will run to the port side of the tank when you're heeled to port, but have no place to go because the lines are on the other side of the tank. But if the fittings were towards the centerline, why wouldn't the same occur when the boat heels by exactly the same angle to starboard?? No, because stuff DOESN'T run UPhill...your head and vent fitting are still on the port side...right? So when you're heeled to starboard, it's an uphill run from the centerline to a head and vent thru-hull on the port side of the boat. Liquid in a tank is always gonna run toward the low side of the boat...so it's always gonna run away from any fitting that's toward the centerline on one tack... any hoses running across the tank from the side toward the centerline are gonna be running uphill on the other tack. If the tank is set on the centerline--for instance, a bow-shaped tank under the v-berth--the fittings should ideally be on the top and in the center of the tank. But even if they're on the end, tank contents will run to one side or the other, never toward the hoses, when you're heeled...the boat would have to be stood on its stern to create a downhill run in either direction. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Question for Peggy
Why is holding tank contents more likely to run out of the tank with the fittings towards the hull than towards the centerline? Let's say the fittings are on the hull side on the port side (as in my case). Then, at a certain heel angle to port, the level of liquids inside the tank will reach the fitting and overflow may occur (yuck). Yep...because stuff runs downhill...So when you're heeled to port, if fittings are on the port side of the tank, contents can spill out the vent or run back toward a head on the port side. But if the tank fittings are toward the centerline, contents will run to the port side of the tank when you're heeled to port, but have no place to go because the lines are on the other side of the tank. But if the fittings were towards the centerline, why wouldn't the same occur when the boat heels by exactly the same angle to starboard?? No, because stuff DOESN'T run UPhill...your head and vent fitting are still on the port side...right? So when you're heeled to starboard, it's an uphill run from the centerline to a head and vent thru-hull on the port side of the boat. Liquid in a tank is always gonna run toward the low side of the boat...so it's always gonna run away from any fitting that's toward the centerline on one tack... any hoses running across the tank from the side toward the centerline are gonna be running uphill on the other tack. If the tank is set on the centerline--for instance, a bow-shaped tank under the v-berth--the fittings should ideally be on the top and in the center of the tank. But even if they're on the end, tank contents will run to one side or the other, never toward the hoses, when you're heeled...the boat would have to be stood on its stern to create a downhill run in either direction. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Question for Peggy
Peggie Hall writes: But if the fittings were towards the centerline, why wouldn't the same occur when the boat heels by exactly the same angle to starboard?? No, because stuff DOESN'T run UPhill...your head and vent fitting are still on the port side...right? So when you're heeled to starboard, it's an uphill run from the centerline to a head and vent thru-hull on the port side of the boat. Liquid in a tank is always gonna run toward the low side of the boat...so it's always gonna run away from any fitting that's toward the centerline on one tack... any hoses running across the tank from the side toward the centerline are gonna be running uphill on the other tack. OK, maybe I understand it now. Do you propose to have the outlet fitting towards the centerline and the hose then OVER the tank? I guess that would work, then the 'stuff' would have to run uphill to get out of the tank. That would have been hard to achieve in my situation, the tank is pretty much shoehorned in, to give max. volume. I guess I'll have to pay attention to not overfilling the tank when on starboard tack... I have a Lavac toilet (with which I am so far extremely happy). Does this make me more or less vulnerable to this kind of problem? Although the outlet valve of the Henderson pump seemed pretty sturdy, it is my only line of defence, right? Once liquid gets through the pump, it can flow right out of the toilet. --Ernst |
Question for Peggy
Peggie Hall writes: But if the fittings were towards the centerline, why wouldn't the same occur when the boat heels by exactly the same angle to starboard?? No, because stuff DOESN'T run UPhill...your head and vent fitting are still on the port side...right? So when you're heeled to starboard, it's an uphill run from the centerline to a head and vent thru-hull on the port side of the boat. Liquid in a tank is always gonna run toward the low side of the boat...so it's always gonna run away from any fitting that's toward the centerline on one tack... any hoses running across the tank from the side toward the centerline are gonna be running uphill on the other tack. OK, maybe I understand it now. Do you propose to have the outlet fitting towards the centerline and the hose then OVER the tank? I guess that would work, then the 'stuff' would have to run uphill to get out of the tank. That would have been hard to achieve in my situation, the tank is pretty much shoehorned in, to give max. volume. I guess I'll have to pay attention to not overfilling the tank when on starboard tack... I have a Lavac toilet (with which I am so far extremely happy). Does this make me more or less vulnerable to this kind of problem? Although the outlet valve of the Henderson pump seemed pretty sturdy, it is my only line of defence, right? Once liquid gets through the pump, it can flow right out of the toilet. --Ernst |
Question for Peggy
brain wrote: OK, maybe I understand it now. Do you propose to have the outlet fitting towards the centerline and the hose then OVER the tank? Yes...or across the end of it if there isn't room above it. That would have been hard to achieve in my situation, the tank is pretty much shoehorned in, to give max. volume. I guess I'll have to pay attention to not overfilling the tank when on starboard tack... If the tank is on the port side and your tank fittings, vent thru-hull and toilet are too, I think you mean a port tack. Runback toward the toilet can be solved with a loop in the line. Depending on how much you heel, preventing waste from overflowing out the vent can be harder to do. I have a Lavac toilet (with which I am so far extremely happy). Does this make me more or less vulnerable to this kind of problem? That depends on where the pump is mounted, but it should make you a bit less vulnerable in any case. But not to waste overflowing out the vent. That can clean to a blocked vent line, so it's important that you remember to backflush the vent every time you pumpout AND every time you wash the boat. Although the outlet valve of the Henderson pump seemed pretty sturdy, it is my only line of defence, right? Once liquid gets through the pump, it can flow right out of the toilet. INTO the toilet. A good reason to pay close attention to any needed maintenance. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Question for Peggy
Peggie Hall writes: Runback toward the toilet can be solved with a loop in the line. Depending on how much you heel, preventing waste from overflowing out the vent can be harder to do. A loop would be difficult to install. The tank is installed relatively high, with most of it over the waterline. Two reasons for that: one because it fits nicely where it is (under the sink in the head), and the second because it allows me to drain the tank by gravity: There is a second outlet at the bottom which is connected to the original thruhull. Of course, this is padlocked to make it legal within 3 miles of the coast. If I wanted to install a loop, it would either stick right into the room over the sink, or I would have to butcher a nice nearby teak cabinet really badly. Neither seems appealing. (OK, the idea of tank contents seepage isn't exactly appealing, either...) I have a Lavac toilet (with which I am so far extremely happy). Does this make me more or less vulnerable to this kind of problem? That depends on where the pump is mounted, but it should make you a bit less vulnerable in any case. Pump is very close to the tank, at the level of about the top of it. But not to waste overflowing out the vent. That can clean to a blocked vent line, so it's important that you remember to backflush the vent every time you pumpout AND every time you wash the boat. Good ideas, but in THAT case I actually did follow your advice: the vent fittings (yes, I DO have two of them, and they are led to the bow, port and starboard) are sitting on the top of the tank, in the centerline. So I should be safe with regard to that. Although the outlet valve of the Henderson pump seemed pretty sturdy, it is my only line of defence, right? Once liquid gets through the pump, it can flow right out of the toilet. INTO the toilet. A good reason to pay close attention to any needed maintenance. Well, that was kind of my point: If it can flow INTO the Lavac toilet, it can flow OUT of it, right? (the tank is higher than the toilet) There is no valve or anything in a Lavac that would hold it back. And the only maintenance I can think of is to make sure the rubber parts in the Henderson pump are OK, right? This lack of necessary maintenance/rebuilding was one of the reasons I picked the Lavac. --Ernst |
Question for Peggy
Peggie Hall writes: Runback toward the toilet can be solved with a loop in the line. Depending on how much you heel, preventing waste from overflowing out the vent can be harder to do. A loop would be difficult to install. The tank is installed relatively high, with most of it over the waterline. Two reasons for that: one because it fits nicely where it is (under the sink in the head), and the second because it allows me to drain the tank by gravity: There is a second outlet at the bottom which is connected to the original thruhull. Of course, this is padlocked to make it legal within 3 miles of the coast. If I wanted to install a loop, it would either stick right into the room over the sink, or I would have to butcher a nice nearby teak cabinet really badly. Neither seems appealing. (OK, the idea of tank contents seepage isn't exactly appealing, either...) I have a Lavac toilet (with which I am so far extremely happy). Does this make me more or less vulnerable to this kind of problem? That depends on where the pump is mounted, but it should make you a bit less vulnerable in any case. Pump is very close to the tank, at the level of about the top of it. But not to waste overflowing out the vent. That can clean to a blocked vent line, so it's important that you remember to backflush the vent every time you pumpout AND every time you wash the boat. Good ideas, but in THAT case I actually did follow your advice: the vent fittings (yes, I DO have two of them, and they are led to the bow, port and starboard) are sitting on the top of the tank, in the centerline. So I should be safe with regard to that. Although the outlet valve of the Henderson pump seemed pretty sturdy, it is my only line of defence, right? Once liquid gets through the pump, it can flow right out of the toilet. INTO the toilet. A good reason to pay close attention to any needed maintenance. Well, that was kind of my point: If it can flow INTO the Lavac toilet, it can flow OUT of it, right? (the tank is higher than the toilet) There is no valve or anything in a Lavac that would hold it back. And the only maintenance I can think of is to make sure the rubber parts in the Henderson pump are OK, right? This lack of necessary maintenance/rebuilding was one of the reasons I picked the Lavac. --Ernst |
Question for Peggy
Well, that was kind of my point: If it can flow INTO the Lavac toilet,
it can flow OUT of it, right? Well...ok. If more than the bowl can hold flows in, it'll flow out of the bowl. :) And the only maintenance I can think of is to make sure the rubber parts in the Henderson pump are OK, right? Yep. This lack of necessary maintenance/rebuilding was one of the reasons I picked the Lavac. I always have to grin when people tell me the Lavac needs no maintenance, that only the pump requires occasional--about every 5 years or so--rebuilding. I don't know of any other toilet BOWLS that require any maintenance either...MAYBE a new seat/lid every 10 years or so--which is usually less often than the Lavac needs a new seal. Nor does any decent quality toilet pump require rebuilding any more often than about once every 5 years or so as long as it's kept lubricated. But there's something about putting the pump 2-5' from the bowl instead of right next to it on the same base that changes everything in people's minds. I'm not knocking the Lavac...it's an outstanding toilet--though not necessarily the right toilet for everyone. But I can't help wondering if it would have even a fraction of the appeal it has, if it worked exactly the same way, but the pump and bowl were side-by-side on a single base.:) -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Question for Peggy
Well, that was kind of my point: If it can flow INTO the Lavac toilet,
it can flow OUT of it, right? Well...ok. If more than the bowl can hold flows in, it'll flow out of the bowl. :) And the only maintenance I can think of is to make sure the rubber parts in the Henderson pump are OK, right? Yep. This lack of necessary maintenance/rebuilding was one of the reasons I picked the Lavac. I always have to grin when people tell me the Lavac needs no maintenance, that only the pump requires occasional--about every 5 years or so--rebuilding. I don't know of any other toilet BOWLS that require any maintenance either...MAYBE a new seat/lid every 10 years or so--which is usually less often than the Lavac needs a new seal. Nor does any decent quality toilet pump require rebuilding any more often than about once every 5 years or so as long as it's kept lubricated. But there's something about putting the pump 2-5' from the bowl instead of right next to it on the same base that changes everything in people's minds. I'm not knocking the Lavac...it's an outstanding toilet--though not necessarily the right toilet for everyone. But I can't help wondering if it would have even a fraction of the appeal it has, if it worked exactly the same way, but the pump and bowl were side-by-side on a single base.:) -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Question for Peggy
Peggie Hall writes: This lack of necessary maintenance/rebuilding was one of the reasons I picked the Lavac. I always have to grin when people tell me the Lavac needs no maintenance, that only the pump requires occasional--about every 5 years or so--rebuilding. I don't know of any other toilet BOWLS that require any maintenance either...MAYBE a new seat/lid every 10 years or so--which is usually less often than the Lavac needs a new seal. Nor does any decent quality toilet pump require rebuilding any more often than about once every 5 years or so as long as it's kept lubricated. But there's something about putting the pump 2-5' from the bowl instead of right next to it on the same base that changes everything in people's minds. I'm not knocking the Lavac...it's an outstanding toilet--though not necessarily the right toilet for everyone. But I can't help wondering if it would have even a fraction of the appeal it has, if it worked exactly the same way, but the pump and bowl were side-by-side on a single base.:) -- Peggie You are absolutely right! I never thought of that but it is true, psychologically it makes a difference. Or, as they say: It is all in the head :) --Ernst |
Question for Peggy
Peggie Hall writes: This lack of necessary maintenance/rebuilding was one of the reasons I picked the Lavac. I always have to grin when people tell me the Lavac needs no maintenance, that only the pump requires occasional--about every 5 years or so--rebuilding. I don't know of any other toilet BOWLS that require any maintenance either...MAYBE a new seat/lid every 10 years or so--which is usually less often than the Lavac needs a new seal. Nor does any decent quality toilet pump require rebuilding any more often than about once every 5 years or so as long as it's kept lubricated. But there's something about putting the pump 2-5' from the bowl instead of right next to it on the same base that changes everything in people's minds. I'm not knocking the Lavac...it's an outstanding toilet--though not necessarily the right toilet for everyone. But I can't help wondering if it would have even a fraction of the appeal it has, if it worked exactly the same way, but the pump and bowl were side-by-side on a single base.:) -- Peggie You are absolutely right! I never thought of that but it is true, psychologically it makes a difference. Or, as they say: It is all in the head :) --Ernst |
Question for Peggy
|
Question for Peggy
|
Question for Peggy
All right, now, I need the straight poop here! (Pun intended, of course)
Looking at marine heads, it looks to me like I should replace my current "pumper" with either an electric SeaEra or an electric Lavac. I don't quite understand how the Lavac works . . . but they are supposed to be "the most trouble-free" available. Any comments? Peggy, help!!! |
Question for Peggy
All right, now, I need the straight poop here! (Pun intended, of course)
Looking at marine heads, it looks to me like I should replace my current "pumper" with either an electric SeaEra or an electric Lavac. I don't quite understand how the Lavac works . . . but they are supposed to be "the most trouble-free" available. Any comments? Peggy, help!!! |
Question for Peggy
Drumm Law wrote:
All right, now, I need the straight poop here! (Pun intended, of course) Looking at marine heads, it looks to me like I should replace my current "pumper" with either an electric SeaEra or an electric Lavac. I don't quite understand how the Lavac works . . . but they are supposed to be "the most trouble-free" available. It's the manual Lavac that gets all the rave reviews. If you want "push button convience, go with the SeaEra. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Question for Peggy
Drumm Law wrote:
All right, now, I need the straight poop here! (Pun intended, of course) Looking at marine heads, it looks to me like I should replace my current "pumper" with either an electric SeaEra or an electric Lavac. I don't quite understand how the Lavac works . . . but they are supposed to be "the most trouble-free" available. It's the manual Lavac that gets all the rave reviews. If you want "push button convience, go with the SeaEra. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Question for Peggy
I've had an Electric Lavac for 5 years (including a one year cruise with a
child) and have mixed opinions, though I'm mostly positive. The Lavac has airtight seals on the seat and lid so that when the pump runs (a Henderson, now Whale, Mk 5 modified with a motor) a vacuum pulls the waste out and pushes it off to the holding tank. The vacuum will also pull some seawater into the bowl. The vacuum gets released by a small hole in the intake line that must be adjusted for the geometry of the system. Pros: There are no moving parts in the toilet itself. The pump can be located in an easily accessible location. If jammed, the pump can be stripped down, cleared, and put back together in about 30 minutes. If the seals are worn, or if it is otherwise unable to draw in seawater, water can still be added manually, and it can still be flushed. The pump can be set up as a bilge pump. If everything works properly, little water gets used. Cons: If the vacuum does not release, a child (or guest) cannot lift the seat. Maybe this year I can teach my daughter (soon to be 9) how to do it. Although the vacuum should release in a minute or so, I've never been able to adjust to do this consistently. The seals can come loose and a guest won't figure it out. While the pump can handle a lot, it can still get jammed. Care must still be taken, as with any marine head. The electric version has a few quirks. I'm not sure how well it would do in continuous duty, so I would hesitate to rely on it as a bilge pump. However, it would be good to have a manual Mk 5 as a backup. The electric has an odd timer switch that can be adjusted for about 30 seconds. I added a manual bottom so it can be run for 10 seconds for liquid waste. The switch cost $60, and can break. The flapper valve on the electric is different from the manual version - it has to be weighted, probably because the electric starts slowly and is too gentle on clogs. Using the manual version of the valve will result in daily clogs. Trust me - that's how I know I can field strip it in under 30 minutes. All in all, I would still recommend it unless you have small children or frequent guests. "Drumm Law" wrote in message ... All right, now, I need the straight poop here! (Pun intended, of course) Looking at marine heads, it looks to me like I should replace my current "pumper" with either an electric SeaEra or an electric Lavac. I don't quite understand how the Lavac works . . . but they are supposed to be "the most trouble-free" available. Any comments? Peggy, help!!! |
Question for Peggy
I've had an Electric Lavac for 5 years (including a one year cruise with a
child) and have mixed opinions, though I'm mostly positive. The Lavac has airtight seals on the seat and lid so that when the pump runs (a Henderson, now Whale, Mk 5 modified with a motor) a vacuum pulls the waste out and pushes it off to the holding tank. The vacuum will also pull some seawater into the bowl. The vacuum gets released by a small hole in the intake line that must be adjusted for the geometry of the system. Pros: There are no moving parts in the toilet itself. The pump can be located in an easily accessible location. If jammed, the pump can be stripped down, cleared, and put back together in about 30 minutes. If the seals are worn, or if it is otherwise unable to draw in seawater, water can still be added manually, and it can still be flushed. The pump can be set up as a bilge pump. If everything works properly, little water gets used. Cons: If the vacuum does not release, a child (or guest) cannot lift the seat. Maybe this year I can teach my daughter (soon to be 9) how to do it. Although the vacuum should release in a minute or so, I've never been able to adjust to do this consistently. The seals can come loose and a guest won't figure it out. While the pump can handle a lot, it can still get jammed. Care must still be taken, as with any marine head. The electric version has a few quirks. I'm not sure how well it would do in continuous duty, so I would hesitate to rely on it as a bilge pump. However, it would be good to have a manual Mk 5 as a backup. The electric has an odd timer switch that can be adjusted for about 30 seconds. I added a manual bottom so it can be run for 10 seconds for liquid waste. The switch cost $60, and can break. The flapper valve on the electric is different from the manual version - it has to be weighted, probably because the electric starts slowly and is too gentle on clogs. Using the manual version of the valve will result in daily clogs. Trust me - that's how I know I can field strip it in under 30 minutes. All in all, I would still recommend it unless you have small children or frequent guests. "Drumm Law" wrote in message ... All right, now, I need the straight poop here! (Pun intended, of course) Looking at marine heads, it looks to me like I should replace my current "pumper" with either an electric SeaEra or an electric Lavac. I don't quite understand how the Lavac works . . . but they are supposed to be "the most trouble-free" available. Any comments? Peggy, help!!! |
The model is the Head Mate, still available from WC, see their web site.
Not sure how compatible their current rebuild kits are for the models dating back to 1979 but I did replace a 1980 CS27 head with a new off-the-shelf WC Head Mate this summer, it was virtually part by part compatible on the outside, did not disect it. - Dave "Dave" wrote in message ... I'm going to have to put a rebuild kit in the head on my 1979 CS27. It has a Wilcox-Crittendon unit that looks like it was OE, but there is no indication of the model, so I can't tell which kit to get, or even whether a kit is available for it. Can you give me a clue as to how to tell? Dave |
Dave wrote:
I'm going to have to put a rebuild kit in the head on my 1979 CS27. It has a Wilcox-Crittendon unit that looks like it was OE, but there is no indication of the model, so I can't tell which kit to get, or even whether a kit is available for it. Can you give me a clue as to how to tell? Most likely Dave is right...it's the Headmate--the "budget" model W-C toilet. If it is, unless it has a bronze pump cylinder and base, after 25 years I'd replace it instead of rebuilding it...'cuz over time pumping wears the pump cylinder and other parts that aren't in the rebuild kit. To be sure which one you have, go the W-C website at http://www.wilcoxcrittenden.com/sanitation.asp?bid= and check it against the photos of their toilets. If it's not the Headmate, you definitely want to rebuild it...'cuz their top of the line toilets are built to last 100 years with minimal maintance and have purchase prices in excess of $700. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1 |
Dave wrote: On Mon, 15 Nov 2004 11:00:22 -0500, "Dave Nickerson" said: The model is the Head Mate, still available from WC Thanks, Dave. Nice to see you here as well as in the owners' group forum. Dave I rebuilt a '76 model (San Juan 26') headmate about 5 years ago with the standard off-the-shelf kit and had no compatability problems. Keith |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:22 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com