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Shrink wrap moisture
Being short of time this year with two boat projects under way, I
elected to have the yard shrink wrap "Strider". I just went up to pull the hatches (see other post) and it was like a shower inside. My back quickly became soaked bumping into the plastic. Maybe it was later in the season but there never seemed to be a hint of moisture under the tarps. The wrap has three of the little triangular vents on each side. I had earlier opened up the portlights to let the gaskets spring back and vent the inside of the boat. I wonder now if I'm letting more moisture in than out. I'm thinking of adding vents, perhaps one of those galvanized wind turbine vents in a length of stove pipe taped into the double wrapping at the end. Anyone else found a good way to get air flowing through a shrink wrapped boat? Can I count on this moisture production slowing when the weather gets colder and the boat has dried out? I can now understand the warning never to shrink wrap a wooden boat. -- Roger Long |
Shrink wrap moisture
"Roger Long" wrote in message ... Being short of time this year with two boat projects under way, I elected to have the yard shrink wrap "Strider". I just went up to pull the hatches (see other post) and it was like a shower inside. My back quickly became soaked bumping into the plastic. Maybe it was later in the season but there never seemed to be a hint of moisture under the tarps. The wrap has three of the little triangular vents on each side. I had earlier opened up the portlights to let the gaskets spring back and vent the inside of the boat. I wonder now if I'm letting more moisture in than out. I'm thinking of adding vents, perhaps one of those galvanized wind turbine vents in a length of stove pipe taped into the double wrapping at the end. Anyone else found a good way to get air flowing through a shrink wrapped boat? Can I count on this moisture production slowing when the weather gets colder and the boat has dried out? I can now understand the warning never to shrink wrap a wooden boat. -- Roger Long It should be possible (although I haven't tried it) to install Nicro solar day/night vents directly into the shrinkwrap covering. You'd need to find flat horizontal spots in which to put them, one forward and one aft, but if you already have a pair installed in your boat (or if you plan on installing a pair) it's just a matter of moving them. Another option would be to find a place both fore and aft which faces down -- under davits and bowsprit/pulpit for example -- and cut large ventilation openings. |
Shrink wrap moisture
The average huge one beating the good little un IMO. My Beneteau 35s5 is in the shrink wrap and we never get much moisture inside. Several vent holes are cut into it and two solar vents keep it going inside. Some folks crack the forward hatch and leave a board out of the companionway as well. Obviously, depending on your climate....results will vary. Robert 35s5 NY |
Shrink wrap moisture
Roger Long wrote:
Being short of time this year with two boat projects under way, I elected to have the yard shrink wrap "Strider". I just went up to pull the hatches (see other post) and it was like a shower inside. My back quickly became soaked bumping into the plastic. Maybe it was later in the season but there never seemed to be a hint of moisture under the tarps. The wrap has three of the little triangular vents on each side. I had earlier opened up the portlights to let the gaskets spring back and vent the inside of the boat. I wonder now if I'm letting more moisture in than out. I'm thinking of adding vents, perhaps one of those galvanized wind turbine vents in a length of stove pipe taped into the double wrapping at the end. Anyone else found a good way to get air flowing through a shrink wrapped boat? Can I count on this moisture production slowing when the weather gets colder and the boat has dried out? I can now understand the warning never to shrink wrap a wooden boat. This will sound strange, but you can chemically dehumidify the inside Total cost -- maybe $10 Get a pair of pantyhose (How is your own business) Go to Home Despot, and buy 2 cartons of Ice Melter (I think it's calcium chloride) DO NOT buy Sodium Chloride! Dump 1 carton into each leg of the pantyhose, and suspend the hose over a 5 gallon old driveway sealer bucket (or buy one one you have to) The calcium Chloride will absorber moisture, and when saturated, drip into the bucket. Should be good for a couple of months. Check it then and dump the bucket and replace the CC if necessary |
Shrink wrap moisture
The calcium Chloride will absorber moisture, and when saturated, drip into the bucket. Should be good for a couple of months. Check it then and dump the bucket and replace the CC if necessary Sounds a lot like the blue buckets of powder they leave in the boats at my yard. Dry as a bone below. Robert B 35s5 NY |
Shrink wrap moisture
Just make sure you either vent or dehumidify, but not both. :)
Btw, I don't really understand the concept of shrink wrapping: The outside of the boat has been sal****erproof and rainproof all summer long, but when it is out of the water, it needs to be protected from rain and snow by plastic wrap? If the concern is an extra half year of UV degradation of everything on deck, wouldn't a fabric cover work better and cheaper over the years, and not have all the condensation problems? What am I missing here? One guy at my dock who rarely uses his boat has a full fabric cover over a 30+ ft sailboat when docked. All you see is the mast and two feet of hull between the waterline and the cover. (Just curious, I am not considering either.) Jim, wrote: Roger Long wrote: Being short of time this year with two boat projects under way, I elected to have the yard shrink wrap "Strider". I just went up to pull the hatches (see other post) and it was like a shower inside. My back quickly became soaked bumping into the plastic. Maybe it was later in the season but there never seemed to be a hint of moisture under the tarps. The wrap has three of the little triangular vents on each side. I had earlier opened up the portlights to let the gaskets spring back and vent the inside of the boat. I wonder now if I'm letting more moisture in than out. I'm thinking of adding vents, perhaps one of those galvanized wind turbine vents in a length of stove pipe taped into the double wrapping at the end. Anyone else found a good way to get air flowing through a shrink wrapped boat? Can I count on this moisture production slowing when the weather gets colder and the boat has dried out? I can now understand the warning never to shrink wrap a wooden boat. This will sound strange, but you can chemically dehumidify the inside Total cost -- maybe $10 Get a pair of pantyhose (How is your own business) Go to Home Despot, and buy 2 cartons of Ice Melter (I think it's calcium chloride) DO NOT buy Sodium Chloride! Dump 1 carton into each leg of the pantyhose, and suspend the hose over a 5 gallon old driveway sealer bucket (or buy one one you have to) The calcium Chloride will absorber moisture, and when saturated, drip into the bucket. Should be good for a couple of months. Check it then and dump the bucket and replace the CC if necessary |
Shrink wrap moisture
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Shrink wrap moisture
Up here in New England, it's the freeze thaw cycle of the frequent
freezing rain we get on the coast. The water runs down in every little nook and cranny and then freezes. This loosens fittings and opens up joints. My boat has enough small leaks around the cockpit area that it will also accumulate quite a bit of water in the bilge. It isn't an annoyance when sailing but will add up as the winter goes on. Water in the lifeline swage fittings also freezes and leads to those cracking. Ideally, everything on the boat should be so tight that intrusion and freezing isn't an issue but this is an old boat in the real world. I also wouldn't want the water that collects in the gaskets of my portlights to be freezing either. -- Roger Long wrote in message ups.com... Just make sure you either vent or dehumidify, but not both. :) Btw, I don't really understand the concept of shrink wrapping: The outside of the boat has been sal****erproof and rainproof all summer long, but when it is out of the water, it needs to be protected from rain and snow by plastic wrap? If the concern is an extra half year of UV degradation of everything on deck, wouldn't a fabric cover work better and cheaper over the years, and not have all the condensation problems? What am I missing here? One guy at my dock who rarely uses his boat has a full fabric cover over a 30+ ft sailboat when docked. All you see is the mast and two feet of hull between the waterline and the cover. (Just curious, I am not considering either.) Jim, wrote: Roger Long wrote: Being short of time this year with two boat projects under way, I elected to have the yard shrink wrap "Strider". I just went up to pull the hatches (see other post) and it was like a shower inside. My back quickly became soaked bumping into the plastic. Maybe it was later in the season but there never seemed to be a hint of moisture under the tarps. The wrap has three of the little triangular vents on each side. I had earlier opened up the portlights to let the gaskets spring back and vent the inside of the boat. I wonder now if I'm letting more moisture in than out. I'm thinking of adding vents, perhaps one of those galvanized wind turbine vents in a length of stove pipe taped into the double wrapping at the end. Anyone else found a good way to get air flowing through a shrink wrapped boat? Can I count on this moisture production slowing when the weather gets colder and the boat has dried out? I can now understand the warning never to shrink wrap a wooden boat. This will sound strange, but you can chemically dehumidify the inside Total cost -- maybe $10 Get a pair of pantyhose (How is your own business) Go to Home Despot, and buy 2 cartons of Ice Melter (I think it's calcium chloride) DO NOT buy Sodium Chloride! Dump 1 carton into each leg of the pantyhose, and suspend the hose over a 5 gallon old driveway sealer bucket (or buy one one you have to) The calcium Chloride will absorber moisture, and when saturated, drip into the bucket. Should be good for a couple of months. Check it then and dump the bucket and replace the CC if necessary |
Shrink wrap moisture
What am I missing here?
Water into tight spaces, cracks, under wood and fittings and then freezing/expansion does damage. There is no doubt about it, even on well built boats. Damage to ports is the most common result along with UV damage overall. Boats that are covered in the winter here show better for it. You also get dry access to the boat instead of wading into 3 feet of snow in the cockpit and deck. Some heat retension also makes for a warmer interior for winter projects. A yard like ours charges about $1000.00 to wrap a 40 foot boat. Some places will charge a LOT less. You can also have a nice fabric cover professionally made for 2500-4000, which is more cost effective in the long run since it can last quite a while. Robert Beneteau 35s5 NY |
Shrink wrap moisture
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