The Hurth HBW100 transmission on our Universal 5432 diesel in our O'Day
37 CC is kaput. I have bought a replacement tranny but I am having a
hard time finding someone to remove the old one and install the new one.
Our marina's mechanic is out sick with a bad back and won't be back
anytime soon and the marina has no one else.

How big a job is this as a DIY project?

Gogarty wrote:
The Hurth HBW100 transmission on our Universal 5432 diesel in our O'Day
37 CC is kaput. I have bought a replacement tranny but I am having a
hard time finding someone to remove the old one and install the new one.
Our marina's mechanic is out sick with a bad back and won't be back
anytime soon and the marina has no one else.

How big a job is this as a DIY project?

It depends. Do you have a good tool set with the
right size sockets and wrenches for the
transmission? If so, can you get to all of the
mounting bolts that connect the transmission bell
housing to the back of the diesel and the bolts
that connect the output shaft of the diesel to
your prop shaft? Is the shift cable and lever
readily accessible?

If the answer to those questions is "yes, yes, and
yes", then it should be a pretty simple job
_assuming_ that you have obtained the correct
transmission for replacement, and the bolts are
not siezed by corrosion.

So I'd say that if you can look at the
transmission and get a socket on all of the
mounting bolts give it a go. Just be careful not
to damage any of the bolts by rounding them off or
snapping them. If you feel at any time that you
are in over your head, STOP and get a competent
mechanic.

Good luck with it,

Don W.

In article ,
says...


Gogarty wrote:
The Hurth HBW100 transmission on our Universal 5432 diesel in our O'Day
37 CC is kaput. I have bought a replacement tranny but I am having a
hard time finding someone to remove the old one and install the new one.
Our marina's mechanic is out sick with a bad back and won't be back
anytime soon and the marina has no one else.

How big a job is this as a DIY project?

It depends. Do you have a good tool set with the
right size sockets and wrenches for the
transmission? If so, can you get to all of the
mounting bolts that connect the transmission bell
housing to the back of the diesel and the bolts
that connect the output shaft of the diesel to
your prop shaft? Is the shift cable and lever
readily accessible?

If the answer to those questions is "yes, yes, and
yes", then it should be a pretty simple job
_assuming_ that you have obtained the correct
transmission for replacement, and the bolts are
not siezed by corrosion.

So I'd say that if you can look at the
transmission and get a socket on all of the
mounting bolts give it a go. Just be careful not
to damage any of the bolts by rounding them off or
snapping them. If you feel at any time that you
are in over your head, STOP and get a competent
mechanic.

Good luck with it,

Don W.

Many thanks. The unit is remarkably accessible unlike most things in a
sailboat engine room. My main concern is those corroded fasteners on the
flange between the prop shaft and tranny. They have been bathed in salt
water stuffing box drip -- sometimes more than a drip -- for years. Before I
break anything, is there a really. really good loosener upper for corroded
fasteners?

Gogarty wrote:

Many thanks. The unit is remarkably accessible unlike most things in a
sailboat engine room. My main concern is those corroded fasteners on the
flange between the prop shaft and tranny. They have been bathed in salt
water stuffing box drip -- sometimes more than a drip -- for years. Before I
break anything, is there a really. really good loosener upper for corroded
fasteners?

You can buy penetrating oil at most auto parts
stores. There are various brands that various
people swear by. Personally, I haven't had much
luck with penetrating oil, but it may be that I'm
just not patient enough, or haven't found the
right brand yet.

For the shaft flange, a little heat from a propane
torch on the nuts will probably get them loose if
penetrating oil doesn't. Just be careful not to
set anything on fire! Also, if you break one of
those bolts, they are easy to replace, and you
should probably replace them with new bolts anyway.

The bolts I would worry about are the ones that
hold the transmission housing to the engine block,
because if you break one of them it will have to
be drilled out.

Don W.

On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 10:37:19 -0400, Gogarty
wrote:

Before I
break anything, is there a really. really good loosener upper for corroded
fasteners?

Kroil, or more properly, Aero Kroil is widely regarded as being the
best. As far as I know it is sold only on the web but you might be
able to borrow a can from a professional mechanic.

PB Blaster is also pretty good and is widely available at auto parts
stores.

Apply, tap lightly with a hammer, reapply, and let it sit overnight
before using a bit more and tapping again with a hammer.

Wayne.B inscribed in red ink for all to know:
On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 10:37:19 -0400, Gogarty
wrote:


Before I
break anything, is there a really. really good loosener upper for corroded
fasteners?


Kroil, or more properly, Aero Kroil is widely regarded as being the
best. As far as I know it is sold only on the web but you might be
able to borrow a can from a professional mechanic.

PB Blaster is also pretty good and is widely available at auto parts
stores.

Apply, tap lightly with a hammer, reapply, and let it sit overnight
before using a bit more and tapping again with a hammer.

On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 10:37:19 -0400, Gogarty
wrote:


Before I
break anything, is there a really. really good loosener upper for
corroded
fasteners?

Wayne B wrote:
Kroil, or more properly, Aero Kroil is widely regarded as being the
best. As far as I know it is sold only on the web but you might be
able to borrow a can from a professional mechanic.

PB Blaster is also pretty good and is widely available at auto parts
stores.

Apply, tap lightly with a hammer, reapply, and let it sit overnight
before using a bit more and tapping again with a hammer.


Just caught up with this thread...

I have to agree with Wayne about Kroil. Having used it on various
applications including aircraft for years, I'd say it's one of the best
I've used.

That said, you may want to be careful what you get it on because it will
dissolve a lot of synthetics (rubber, plastic, etc.)

Another pretty good one is wintergreen oil. I have a can I got surplus
from the Airforce and it not only smells good, it works great.

Gogarty inscribed in red ink for all to know:
In article ,
says...


Gogarty wrote:

The Hurth HBW100 transmission on our Universal 5432 diesel in our O'Day
37 CC is kaput. I have bought a replacement tranny but I am having a
hard time finding someone to remove the old one and install the new one.
Our marina's mechanic is out sick with a bad back and won't be back
anytime soon and the marina has no one else.

How big a job is this as a DIY project?

It depends. Do you have a good tool set with the
right size sockets and wrenches for the
transmission? If so, can you get to all of the
mounting bolts that connect the transmission bell
housing to the back of the diesel and the bolts
that connect the output shaft of the diesel to
your prop shaft? Is the shift cable and lever
readily accessible?

If the answer to those questions is "yes, yes, and
yes", then it should be a pretty simple job
_assuming_ that you have obtained the correct
transmission for replacement, and the bolts are
not siezed by corrosion.

So I'd say that if you can look at the
transmission and get a socket on all of the
mounting bolts give it a go. Just be careful not
to damage any of the bolts by rounding them off or
snapping them. If you feel at any time that you
are in over your head, STOP and get a competent
mechanic.

Good luck with it,

Don W.


Many thanks. The unit is remarkably accessible unlike most things in a
sailboat engine room. My main concern is those corroded fasteners on the
flange between the prop shaft and tranny. They have been bathed in salt
water stuffing box drip -- sometimes more than a drip -- for years. Before I
break anything, is there a really. really good loosener upper for corroded
fasteners?


I have learned to sacrifice a nut when necessary. That is, if the
coupling is held together with bolts and nuts, rather than busting a
knuckle, or the bolt, just use a nut splitter to take off the nut. The
nut will be destroyed, but will come off easily. This is especially
handy when removing a nut corroded onto a stud - it saves the stud, and
eliminates the risk of breaking it off.

bob

How heavy is the transmission, can you lift it in and out?

How big is the transmission, can you get it out without moving the engine?

Alec


"Gogarty" wrote in message
...
The Hurth HBW100 transmission on our Universal 5432 diesel in our O'Day
37 CC is kaput. I have bought a replacement tranny but I am having a
hard time finding someone to remove the old one and install the new one.
Our marina's mechanic is out sick with a bad back and won't be back
anytime soon and the marina has no one else.

How big a job is this as a DIY project?

I did a HBW150 one time. It weighed about 17#. A 100 should be even
lighter. Problem was access. I could not see a thing getting it out and it
would fit only one way. Unbolting took minutes, getting it into the right
position to get it out took hours. I had to unbolt it from the DIN
backplate to get it out but I figured that out very quickly.

Installing - The bolting up took about 10 minutes. Getting it in and in the
right position took at least an hour. Again it would only fit one way.

PS - drain the fluid before removal. It is a DYI project if you are
paitent. Why did you buy a replacement? Why not get the old one
overhauled?

"Alec" wrote in message
...
How heavy is the transmission, can you lift it in and out?

How big is the transmission, can you get it out without moving the engine?

Alec


"Gogarty" wrote in message
...
The Hurth HBW100 transmission on our Universal 5432 diesel in our O'Day
37 CC is kaput. I have bought a replacement tranny but I am having a
hard time finding someone to remove the old one and install the new one.
Our marina's mechanic is out sick with a bad back and won't be back
anytime soon and the marina has no one else.

How big a job is this as a DIY project?