user of varnish remover on teak
 

I've spent way too much time sanding varnish from teak hand rails on
the cabin top. I've gotten most of it off, but there are so many
nooks and crannies I'm considering use of a chemical varnish remover
to finsih the job. My main fear is staining the white gelcoat or
affecting the non-skid surrounding the rail. If you've tried this,
please share your results, both positive and otherwise.

I'll be applying Honey Teak if I ever get all this varnish removed.

Dave
J/40 #63

user of varnish remover on teak
 

Be sure to mask well around the area with a couple of layers of good 3M
tape.

As for the Honey Teak, be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions
EXACTLY, doing coats wet on wet, and DON'T sand in between coats if you let
it dry.

--


Keith
__
If at first you don't succeed ... well, so much for skydiving.
"Dave" wrote in message
om...
I've spent way too much time sanding varnish from teak hand rails on
the cabin top. I've gotten most of it off, but there are so many
nooks and crannies I'm considering use of a chemical varnish remover
to finsih the job. My main fear is staining the white gelcoat or
affecting the non-skid surrounding the rail. If you've tried this,
please share your results, both positive and otherwise.

I'll be applying Honey Teak if I ever get all this varnish removed.

Dave
J/40 #63

user of varnish remover on teak
 

My favorite remover is a product called ZIP STRIP. Its a gel, just brush
it on, let it bubble, then let it dry up a bit before you brush-off/rub-
off the mess. Better to let it become gummy before removing as if the
party dried stripper hits the gel there will be NO problem. If the
liquid form (of most strippers) contacts the gelcoat it will almost
immediately destroy the surface ... so keep a rag soaked in mineral
spirits handy to immediately wipe up the occasional inevitable 'drips'
of stripper. Use masking tape and thin film plastic tarps. IMMEDIATELY
pull the masking tape to be sure that no stripper "wicks" UNDER the tape.

Talk directly to Tom at Signature Finish concerning an adequate waiting
time for the stripper solvent to dissipate from the wood before
application of Honey Teak base coat. He will recommend a solvent wash to
be sure the stripper carrier is totally gone .... before coating with
HTeak. I was tooooo fast and had to re-do a small section when the
stripper released from the teak into a new area of base coat - wrinkled it.

Im totally sold on Honey Teak. My opinion is to bleach the teak before
application and then apply 3 full/wet base coats. Three base coats will
give a darker hue; hence the suggestion of bleaching. At 4 years of
age, my present Honey Teak job has needed some minor repair in those
areas that I only applied two coats of base; on the those areas that I
really slathered on the base - no problem. Plus if you're a fanatic
reformed varnish-aholic like me, you'll probably be flat sanding the
large horizontal surfaces later on to get a mirror surface ... and
you'll inevitably sand too deep and into the base. An extra base coat
will prevent premature failure (premature in "Honey Teak speak" is
probably 3-4 years).
If this is your first Honey Teak job, suggest that you get a glass plate
and test brush on the Honey teak on the glass in a vertical position to
have the correct amount of "flow fluid". When adjusting the 'flow fluid'
percent vs. a vertical glass plate .... If not enough 'flow fluid' is
added it will sag or dry a bit 'bumpy' on vertical surfaces ; if too
thin it will tend to not have good leveling/filling qualities.

Buy **EXTRA** soft artist's brushes from Tom. The final coat will need
several brushes .... as the stuff may 'kick' a little in the brush.
Apply it on a cool cloudy day for best leveling. Heat will make the
stuff 'kick' faster.

My original HT job was completed with 4 full clear coats - laid on 3,
flat sanded, applied the 4th ...... and then flat sanded with 2000 grit
and then hand rubbed with rotten stone and water ... and then lightly
power buffed ..... looked better than a museum grade sprayed and
hand-rubbed varnish job! The Hinckley parked in a nearby slip was
totally envious!

Like I stated above, I'm well into my fourth year with no doubts that
I'll make 5.

user of varnish remover on teak
 

Dave wrote:

I've spent way too much time sanding varnish from teak hand rails on
the cabin top. I've gotten most of it off, but there are so many
nooks and crannies I'm considering use of a chemical varnish remover
to finsih the job. My main fear is staining the white gelcoat or
affecting the non-skid surrounding the rail. If you've tried this,
please share your results, both positive and otherwise.

I'll be applying Honey Teak if I ever get all this varnish removed.

Dave
J/40 #63


I'd go for lighter solutions before the strippers. Perhaps TSP or the
two-part teak cleaners. We can unscrew almost all our exterior woodwork,
take it home over the winter, and do a REALLY good job.

As others mentioned, taping off makes the job a lot cleaner.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

user of varnish remover on teak
 

Rich: Have you put on any maintenance coats in those 4 years? I had a ****ty
contractor (Ann Waters) put on my Honey Teak and she messed it up
completely. I'm going to have to redo several areas, but some still look
good after two years with no additional coats.

--


Keith
__
What did you forget?
"RichH" wrote in message
...
My favorite remover is a product called ZIP STRIP. Its a gel, just brush
it on, let it bubble, then let it dry up a bit before you brush-off/rub-
off the mess. Better to let it become gummy before removing as if the
party dried stripper hits the gel there will be NO problem. If the
liquid form (of most strippers) contacts the gelcoat it will almost
immediately destroy the surface ... so keep a rag soaked in mineral
spirits handy to immediately wipe up the occasional inevitable 'drips'
of stripper. Use masking tape and thin film plastic tarps. IMMEDIATELY
pull the masking tape to be sure that no stripper "wicks" UNDER the tape.

Talk directly to Tom at Signature Finish concerning an adequate waiting
time for the stripper solvent to dissipate from the wood before
application of Honey Teak base coat. He will recommend a solvent wash to
be sure the stripper carrier is totally gone .... before coating with
HTeak. I was tooooo fast and had to re-do a small section when the
stripper released from the teak into a new area of base coat - wrinkled
it.

Im totally sold on Honey Teak. My opinion is to bleach the teak before
application and then apply 3 full/wet base coats. Three base coats will
give a darker hue; hence the suggestion of bleaching. At 4 years of
age, my present Honey Teak job has needed some minor repair in those
areas that I only applied two coats of base; on the those areas that I
really slathered on the base - no problem. Plus if you're a fanatic
reformed varnish-aholic like me, you'll probably be flat sanding the
large horizontal surfaces later on to get a mirror surface ... and
you'll inevitably sand too deep and into the base. An extra base coat
will prevent premature failure (premature in "Honey Teak speak" is
probably 3-4 years).
If this is your first Honey Teak job, suggest that you get a glass plate
and test brush on the Honey teak on the glass in a vertical position to
have the correct amount of "flow fluid". When adjusting the 'flow fluid'
percent vs. a vertical glass plate .... If not enough 'flow fluid' is
added it will sag or dry a bit 'bumpy' on vertical surfaces ; if too
thin it will tend to not have good leveling/filling qualities.

Buy **EXTRA** soft artist's brushes from Tom. The final coat will need
several brushes .... as the stuff may 'kick' a little in the brush.
Apply it on a cool cloudy day for best leveling. Heat will make the
stuff 'kick' faster.

My original HT job was completed with 4 full clear coats - laid on 3,
flat sanded, applied the 4th ...... and then flat sanded with 2000 grit
and then hand rubbed with rotten stone and water ... and then lightly
power buffed ..... looked better than a museum grade sprayed and
hand-rubbed varnish job! The Hinckley parked in a nearby slip was
totally envious!

Like I stated above, I'm well into my fourth year with no doubts that
I'll make 5.