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Praxi August 5th 06 06:50 AM

My very first boat!!!
 
Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to look
for?

Thank you,


Roger Long August 5th 06 11:26 AM

My very first boat!!!
 
I suggest you read this to start in order to get some idea of what
lies ahead and the intimidating economics of buying a used boat.

http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat2.htm

--

Roger Long



"Praxi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now
and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe
live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to
stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to
look
for?

Thank you,





August 5th 06 12:25 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
At our club we have a sailboat like your and it owner like it a lot.
I am on the market for another sailboat.
I visited http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat2.htm and found it very
interesting.
I wonder if you could gave a picture of the financial implication in
purchasing your pre - owned sailboat like you did.
That is the purchased price along with all the refurbishing and upgrading
you have done to bring the sailboat to the stage it is now.
The learning curve to know what to and how to fix and repair may be hard to
establish.
The idea is If I purchase a pre - owned sailboat how much should I allocate
for sprucing up the boat and make to necessary repair like the stern tube
and other things.
Over here the insurance companies do require a boat survey when the boat is
20 years old. The surveyor gets pay a percentage of the evaluated
replacement value of the boat. Then the insurance companies decide the
premium to be paid.


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
I suggest you read this to start in order to get some idea of what
lies ahead and the intimidating economics of buying a used boat.

http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat2.htm

--

Roger Long



"Praxi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now
and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe
live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to
stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to
look
for?

Thank you,







Brian Whatcott August 5th 06 12:59 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
On 4 Aug 2006 22:50:44 -0700, "Praxi" wrote:

Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to look
for?

Thank you,



There's a school of thought that says a cheap old sailing dinghy is a
whole lot cheaper to bang around in, while learning the fine points.
Going fresh to a 32 ft sailboat can be done no doubt, but not by most
without a few expensive trips to the bank.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

August 5th 06 01:51 PM

My very first boat!!!
 

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

At this time, the best lead is to learn the ropes.

You can learn a lot by crewing on other people sailboats. By crewing you
will learn what you prefer and what the other boat owners like.

Most people prefer the sloop rig equipped with a fin keel. Other people are
going for the long keel and the facilities and ease of handling small sails
by having a cutter, yawl or ketch rig.

Today with the advent of the in mast furling main sail and furling jib a
wider stern hull the trend is slowly getting accepted.



"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
On 4 Aug 2006 22:50:44 -0700, "Praxi" wrote:

Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to look
for?

Thank you,



There's a school of thought that says a cheap old sailing dinghy is a
whole lot cheaper to bang around in, while learning the fine points.
Going fresh to a 32 ft sailboat can be done no doubt, but not by most
without a few expensive trips to the bank.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK




Harlan Lachman August 5th 06 03:37 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
In article .com,
"Praxi" wrote:

Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to look
for?

Thank you,


YOu give us very little information about yourself. Where is this boat
going to be used? Do you need a shower (I would during a week)? Do you
want hot water (I guess you might if you plan to cook and clean). Are
you tall or short (some care about headroom).

I tried to overnight on my J/100 last night for the first time and had
to call it quits because of overheating and stale air. There was little
air circulation.

Which brings me to my point. Air circulation is rarely considered by
folks buying a boat. Yet, if you are planning to overnight, weekend, or
live aboard, it is likely going to be very important to your long term
enjoyment of your boat.

I don't know what you know about air circulation but the amount of air
circulating in a boat has to do with the amount of free ventilation
(screens cut the area in half) and location (you need as much exhaust
air ventilation as incoming air). That is why many (but not all) boats
have vents on either side of the cabin.

Good luck.

H

--
To respond, obviously drop the "nospan"?

Thomas Wentworth August 5th 06 03:38 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
"sloop rig equipped with a fin keel"

AKA ,,, a lobster pot catcher. I was at the boatyard this week and there
were a whole bunch of fin keel boat on the hard. Everyone had some damage
to the fin, or rudder. The rudder's were not attached to the keel.


A full keel might not be as fast but it does have some advantages.


================================================== ======
wrote in message
...

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

At this time, the best lead is to learn the ropes.

You can learn a lot by crewing on other people sailboats. By crewing you
will learn what you prefer and what the other boat owners like.

Most people prefer the sloop rig equipped with a fin keel. Other people
are going for the long keel and the facilities and ease of handling small
sails by having a cutter, yawl or ketch rig.

Today with the advent of the in mast furling main sail and furling jib a
wider stern hull the trend is slowly getting accepted.



"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
On 4 Aug 2006 22:50:44 -0700, "Praxi" wrote:

Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to look
for?

Thank you,



There's a school of thought that says a cheap old sailing dinghy is a
whole lot cheaper to bang around in, while learning the fine points.
Going fresh to a 32 ft sailboat can be done no doubt, but not by most
without a few expensive trips to the bank.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK






Gerald August 5th 06 04:09 PM

My very first boat!!!
 

"Praxi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to look
for?

Thank you,


At the risk of starting an old religeous war, I would suggest you look at
the Gemini or PDQ series of catamrans. A Gemini was the first sailboat I
got with my wife. She loved it because it didn't heel. I loved it because
I got to sail a lot on it .... because she liked it. We liked it beacuase
it had significantly more liveable space than any mono hull in her class.
There are many narrow minded people on both sides of the mono / multi hull
debate. Listen to what each has to say. Don't take anyone too seriously.
I spend many years owning monohulls. Because my wife was happier on the
multi, I covered many more miles in them.

If you are new, these small cruising cats (Gemini, PDQ) are a great way to
get started ---- and they will serve you for a long time. They are great
local sailboats that are also great low budget cruising boats. I have seen
them migrating up and down the East coast and throughout the Bahamas.
Worth taking a look.

gemini - www.geminicatamarans.com/
pdq - http://www.pdqyachts.com/sail/index.html

for a look at some in the used market - one broker I have used -
http://www.2hulls.com/salecat.html










Roger Long August 5th 06 04:52 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
If your budget has hard limits, I would suggest spending only half of
it on the purchase, no matter how good the survey and how good the
boat looks if the boat is over 10 - 15 years old.

OTOH I'm glad we didn't follow this rule because we would only have
bought half as much boat.

--

Roger Long



wrote in message
...
At our club we have a sailboat like your and it owner like it a lot.
I am on the market for another sailboat.
I visited http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat2.htm and found it very
interesting.
I wonder if you could gave a picture of the financial implication in
purchasing your pre - owned sailboat like you did.
That is the purchased price along with all the refurbishing and
upgrading you have done to bring the sailboat to the stage it is
now.
The learning curve to know what to and how to fix and repair may be
hard to establish.
The idea is If I purchase a pre - owned sailboat how much should I
allocate for sprucing up the boat and make to necessary repair like
the stern tube and other things.
Over here the insurance companies do require a boat survey when the
boat is 20 years old. The surveyor gets pay a percentage of the
evaluated replacement value of the boat. Then the insurance
companies decide the premium to be paid.


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
I suggest you read this to start in order to get some idea of what
lies ahead and the intimidating economics of buying a used boat.

http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat2.htm

--

Roger Long



"Praxi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now
and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe
live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to
stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to
look
for?

Thank you,









August 5th 06 05:10 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
Years ago, according to Sailing magazine testing -- the fastest sailboat to
claw off a coast line (getting away from an rough and threatening coast
line) is a sloop rig with a fin keel.

As for the full keel and attached rudder I agreed that it will not act as a
lobster pot catcher the way the fin keel and suspended rudder are doing.
They only draw back I see is it may not turn as fast as the fin keel.
Nevertheless for long passage making it is still well preferred.




"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news:442Bg.60$AF1.49@trndny03...
"sloop rig equipped with a fin keel"

AKA ,,, a lobster pot catcher. I was at the boatyard this week and there
were a whole bunch of fin keel boat on the hard. Everyone had some damage
to the fin, or rudder. The rudder's were not attached to the keel.


A full keel might not be as fast but it does have some advantages.


================================================== ======
wrote in message
...

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

At this time, the best lead is to learn the ropes.

You can learn a lot by crewing on other people sailboats. By crewing you
will learn what you prefer and what the other boat owners like.

Most people prefer the sloop rig equipped with a fin keel. Other people
are going for the long keel and the facilities and ease of handling small
sails by having a cutter, yawl or ketch rig.

Today with the advent of the in mast furling main sail and furling jib a
wider stern hull the trend is slowly getting accepted.



"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
On 4 Aug 2006 22:50:44 -0700, "Praxi" wrote:

Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to look
for?

Thank you,


There's a school of thought that says a cheap old sailing dinghy is a
whole lot cheaper to bang around in, while learning the fine points.
Going fresh to a 32 ft sailboat can be done no doubt, but not by most
without a few expensive trips to the bank.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK








August 5th 06 05:28 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
One must bear in mind that a marine surveyor is only responsible for what he
can see.
The hidden defect and fibreglass rot are not always detected. A good
example is the stern rubber hose connecting the boat hull to the shaft. If
this hose lets go water start to get into the boat very quickly. The same
thing applies to the exhaust hoses. These hoses are hard to reach and a
visual check is not good, you have to reach them and strongly feel them all
around top and bottom. On some boat you can not reach them at all. Last
year my friend boat checked his hoses and he stated that the hoses look
pretty good. I replied, impossible, not after 23 years of service. We took
the hoses out. Yes, the hoses were rotten and were replaced with the new
approved hoses.

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
If your budget has hard limits, I would suggest spending only half of it
on the purchase, no matter how good the survey and how good the boat looks
if the boat is over 10 - 15 years old.

OTOH I'm glad we didn't follow this rule because we would only have bought
half as much boat.

--

Roger Long



wrote in message
...
At our club we have a sailboat like your and it owner like it a lot.
I am on the market for another sailboat.
I visited http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat2.htm and found it very
interesting.
I wonder if you could gave a picture of the financial implication in
purchasing your pre - owned sailboat like you did.
That is the purchased price along with all the refurbishing and upgrading
you have done to bring the sailboat to the stage it is now.
The learning curve to know what to and how to fix and repair may be hard
to establish.
The idea is If I purchase a pre - owned sailboat how much should I
allocate for sprucing up the boat and make to necessary repair like the
stern tube and other things.
Over here the insurance companies do require a boat survey when the boat
is 20 years old. The surveyor gets pay a percentage of the evaluated
replacement value of the boat. Then the insurance companies decide the
premium to be paid.


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
I suggest you read this to start in order to get some idea of what
lies ahead and the intimidating economics of buying a used boat.

http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat2.htm

--

Roger Long



"Praxi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now
and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe
live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to
stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to
look
for?

Thank you,











Roger Long August 5th 06 06:11 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
I've only caught one pot with my E 32. That was one with a plastic
jug for a buoy that had been punctured and dragged beneath the surface
where it tangled up in a bunch of others so the line was stretched out
of sight.

I'm sure I'll catch another one someday but I now have a hook knife
and the handling, maneuverability, and performance are features I'd
rather have than being able to blindly plow through pots.

--

Roger Long



wrote in message
...
Years ago, according to Sailing magazine testing -- the fastest
sailboat to claw off a coast line (getting away from an rough and
threatening coast line) is a sloop rig with a fin keel.

As for the full keel and attached rudder I agreed that it will not
act as a lobster pot catcher the way the fin keel and suspended
rudder are doing. They only draw back I see is it may not turn as
fast as the fin keel. Nevertheless for long passage making it is
still well preferred.




"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news:442Bg.60$AF1.49@trndny03...
"sloop rig equipped with a fin keel"

AKA ,,, a lobster pot catcher. I was at the boatyard this week and
there were a whole bunch of fin keel boat on the hard. Everyone
had some damage to the fin, or rudder. The rudder's were not
attached to the keel.


A full keel might not be as fast but it does have some advantages.


================================================== ======
wrote in message
...

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to
stay
away from?

At this time, the best lead is to learn the ropes.

You can learn a lot by crewing on other people sailboats. By
crewing you will learn what you prefer and what the other boat
owners like.

Most people prefer the sloop rig equipped with a fin keel. Other
people are going for the long keel and the facilities and ease of
handling small sails by having a cutter, yawl or ketch rig.

Today with the advent of the in mast furling main sail and furling
jib a wider stern hull the trend is slowly getting accepted.



"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
On 4 Aug 2006 22:50:44 -0700, "Praxi" wrote:

Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on,
now and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and
maybe live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to
stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.)
to look
for?

Thank you,


There's a school of thought that says a cheap old sailing dinghy
is a
whole lot cheaper to bang around in, while learning the fine
points.
Going fresh to a 32 ft sailboat can be done no doubt, but not by
most
without a few expensive trips to the bank.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK









Roger Long August 5th 06 06:12 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
See he

http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Strider0605.htm

--

Roger Long



wrote in message
...
One must bear in mind that a marine surveyor is only responsible for
what he can see.
The hidden defect and fibreglass rot are not always detected. A
good example is the stern rubber hose connecting the boat hull to
the shaft. If this hose lets go water start to get into the boat
very quickly. The same thing applies to the exhaust hoses. These
hoses are hard to reach and a visual check is not good, you have to
reach them and strongly feel them all around top and bottom. On
some boat you can not reach them at all. Last year my friend boat
checked his hoses and he stated that the hoses look pretty good. I
replied, impossible, not after 23 years of service. We took the
hoses out. Yes, the hoses were rotten and were replaced with the
new approved hoses.

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
If your budget has hard limits, I would suggest spending only half
of it on the purchase, no matter how good the survey and how good
the boat looks if the boat is over 10 - 15 years old.

OTOH I'm glad we didn't follow this rule because we would only have
bought half as much boat.

--

Roger Long



wrote in message
...
At our club we have a sailboat like your and it owner like it a
lot.
I am on the market for another sailboat.
I visited http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat2.htm and found it
very interesting.
I wonder if you could gave a picture of the financial implication
in purchasing your pre - owned sailboat like you did.
That is the purchased price along with all the refurbishing and
upgrading you have done to bring the sailboat to the stage it is
now.
The learning curve to know what to and how to fix and repair may
be hard to establish.
The idea is If I purchase a pre - owned sailboat how much should I
allocate for sprucing up the boat and make to necessary repair
like the stern tube and other things.
Over here the insurance companies do require a boat survey when
the boat is 20 years old. The surveyor gets pay a percentage of
the evaluated replacement value of the boat. Then the insurance
companies decide the premium to be paid.


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
I suggest you read this to start in order to get some idea of what
lies ahead and the intimidating economics of buying a used boat.

http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat2.htm

--

Roger Long



"Praxi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on,
now
and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and
maybe
live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what
to
stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.)
to
look
for?

Thank you,













Gary August 5th 06 08:47 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
Roger Long wrote:
I've only caught one pot with my E 32. That was one with a plastic
jug for a buoy that had been punctured and dragged beneath the surface
where it tangled up in a bunch of others so the line was stretched out
of sight.

I'm sure I'll catch another one someday but I now have a hook knife
and the handling, maneuverability, and performance are features I'd
rather have than being able to blindly plow through pots.

In fact, the best cruisers are somewhere between being a fin keel, spade
rudder setup. Look at the hulls of Valiant and Pacific Seacraft. I
believe they are a very good compromise.

Furthermore, in my experience with both a fin keeler and full keeled
boat, the snag crab pots and kelp at about the same frequency. That
would be almost every time you run over one. The lobster pot business
is not a good way to choose a hull design.

Hitting logs with a spade rudder, that is a different story........

Gary

Gary August 5th 06 08:54 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
wrote:
Years ago, according to Sailing magazine testing -- the fastest sailboat to
claw off a coast line (getting away from an rough and threatening coast
line) is a sloop rig with a fin keel.

As for the full keel and attached rudder I agreed that it will not act as a
lobster pot catcher the way the fin keel and suspended rudder are doing.
They only draw back I see is it may not turn as fast as the fin keel.
Nevertheless for long passage making it is still well preferred.

Won't turn as fast;
Won't sail as fast;
More hull to sand and paint;
Much heavier displacement;
Wetter ride in heavy weather; and
Much heavier gear (more expensive) for a given size boat.

That being said, the Folkboat and its derivatives (Contessa 26,
Vancouver 26, Marie Holm) are some of the most attractive and seaworthy
boats around.

Gary




"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news:442Bg.60$AF1.49@trndny03...


Roger Long August 5th 06 08:54 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
"Gary" wrote

In fact, the best cruisers are somewhere between being a fin keel,
spade rudder setup. Look at the hulls of Valiant and Pacific
Seacraft. I believe they are a very good compromise.



That pretty much describes the E 32 underbody.

--

Roger Long





August 5th 06 09:03 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
It looks very good
I bet the stuffing box hose comes from Hamilton Marine. For us around here
a 6 ply hose can only be obtained from Hamilton.

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
See he

http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Strider0605.htm

--

Roger Long



wrote in message
...
One must bear in mind that a marine surveyor is only responsible for what
he can see.
The hidden defect and fibreglass rot are not always detected. A good
example is the stern rubber hose connecting the boat hull to the shaft.
If this hose lets go water start to get into the boat very quickly. The
same thing applies to the exhaust hoses. These hoses are hard to reach
and a visual check is not good, you have to reach them and strongly feel
them all around top and bottom. On some boat you can not reach them at
all. Last year my friend boat checked his hoses and he stated that the
hoses look pretty good. I replied, impossible, not after 23 years of
service. We took the hoses out. Yes, the hoses were rotten and were
replaced with the new approved hoses.

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
If your budget has hard limits, I would suggest spending only half of it
on the purchase, no matter how good the survey and how good the boat
looks if the boat is over 10 - 15 years old.

OTOH I'm glad we didn't follow this rule because we would only have
bought half as much boat.

--

Roger Long



wrote in message
...
At our club we have a sailboat like your and it owner like it a lot.
I am on the market for another sailboat.
I visited http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat2.htm and found it very
interesting.
I wonder if you could gave a picture of the financial implication in
purchasing your pre - owned sailboat like you did.
That is the purchased price along with all the refurbishing and
upgrading you have done to bring the sailboat to the stage it is now.
The learning curve to know what to and how to fix and repair may be
hard to establish.
The idea is If I purchase a pre - owned sailboat how much should I
allocate for sprucing up the boat and make to necessary repair like the
stern tube and other things.
Over here the insurance companies do require a boat survey when the
boat is 20 years old. The surveyor gets pay a percentage of the
evaluated replacement value of the boat. Then the insurance companies
decide the premium to be paid.


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
I suggest you read this to start in order to get some idea of what
lies ahead and the intimidating economics of buying a used boat.

http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat2.htm

--

Roger Long



"Praxi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now
and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe
live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to
stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to
look
for?

Thank you,















August 5th 06 09:08 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
At our club when everyone else is heeling with the rub rail close to the
water and getting their ears wet, our friend in his E32 sails along with
minimum listing of 15 to 20 degrees.

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
"Gary" wrote

In fact, the best cruisers are somewhere between being a fin keel, spade
rudder setup. Look at the hulls of Valiant and Pacific Seacraft. I
believe they are a very good compromise.



That pretty much describes the E 32 underbody.

--

Roger Long







Paul Cassel August 5th 06 09:10 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
Roger Long wrote:
"Gary" wrote

In fact, the best cruisers are somewhere between being a fin keel,
spade rudder setup. Look at the hulls of Valiant and Pacific
Seacraft. I believe they are a very good compromise.



That pretty much describes the E 32 underbody.

Modified fin keel which describes my Tayana 42. I'm sold on this as the
best compromise.

August 5th 06 09:14 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
Hitting logs with a spade rudder, that is a different story........

I have noticed that many short keel Catalina's have the rudder deeper than
the keel. This means that the first thing that goes aground is the rudder.
During my first year of sailing I turned on a dime and inadvertently hit the
bottom of the rudder. This resulted in a bent rudder post and minimum
steering capability.

"Gary" wrote in message
news:zB6Bg.325895$IK3.264217@pd7tw1no...
Roger Long wrote:
I've only caught one pot with my E 32. That was one with a plastic jug
for a buoy that had been punctured and dragged beneath the surface where
it tangled up in a bunch of others so the line was stretched out of
sight.

I'm sure I'll catch another one someday but I now have a hook knife and
the handling, maneuverability, and performance are features I'd rather
have than being able to blindly plow through pots.

In fact, the best cruisers are somewhere between being a fin keel, spade
rudder setup. Look at the hulls of Valiant and Pacific Seacraft. I
believe they are a very good compromise.

Furthermore, in my experience with both a fin keeler and full keeled boat,
the snag crab pots and kelp at about the same frequency. That would be
almost every time you run over one. The lobster pot business is not a
good way to choose a hull design.

Hitting logs with a spade rudder, that is a different story........

Gary




Roger Long August 5th 06 09:35 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
wrote

At our club when everyone else is heeling with the rub rail close to
the water and getting their ears wet, our friend in his E32 sails
along with minimum listing of 15 to 20 degrees.


I find that a extremely interesting comment. I never race so I
haven't been able to compare the E32 to other boats. My impression is
that the E32 is not a very stiff boat due to heavy construction and a
lot of volume in the keel (a heritage from the keel / centerboard
original design) that reduces its effectiveness. 20 degree heel with
130% Genoa is reached at lower wind speeds than what I would expect
from my long ago yacht designing days.

I'm usually heeled more than other boats but I tend to be a hard
driver and the boat goes very well at 30 degrees. Displacement alone
is one contributor to stiffness so the E32 might compare well in heel
to a very light boat of the same sail area even though the more modern
one was wider and stiffer.

It's not a fast boat by racing standards but that just means it's 5%
slower in a lot of conditions than a racing type. At the same time,
it's 5% faster than a lot of traditional cruisers of the same motion
comfort and lack of pounding as they go to windward.

Good compromise if you ask me.

--

Roger Long






August 5th 06 09:56 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
I have just checked the RYC spring series result and the Endeavour is listed
as 11 out of 13 racing sailboat the last one being a C&C.
Not bad for a cruising design boat. The Endeavour we have at our club has a
solid keel not a swing keel.


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
wrote

At our club when everyone else is heeling with the rub rail close to the
water and getting their ears wet, our friend in his E32 sails along with
minimum listing of 15 to 20 degrees.


I find that a extremely interesting comment. I never race so I haven't
been able to compare the E32 to other boats. My impression is that the
E32 is not a very stiff boat due to heavy construction and a lot of volume
in the keel (a heritage from the keel / centerboard original design) that
reduces its effectiveness. 20 degree heel with 130% Genoa is reached at
lower wind speeds than what I would expect from my long ago yacht
designing days.

I'm usually heeled more than other boats but I tend to be a hard driver
and the boat goes very well at 30 degrees. Displacement alone is one
contributor to stiffness so the E32 might compare well in heel to a very
light boat of the same sail area even though the more modern one was wider
and stiffer.

It's not a fast boat by racing standards but that just means it's 5%
slower in a lot of conditions than a racing type. At the same time, it's
5% faster than a lot of traditional cruisers of the same motion comfort
and lack of pounding as they go to windward.

Good compromise if you ask me.

--

Roger Long








Roger Long August 5th 06 10:21 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
Mine (1980 build) is a solid keel as well. When they went to the
solid keel they just added a few inches to the draft.

I've heard, but not been able to substantiate, that similar boats
offered in both versions turned up very little difference in windward
performance. As a former sailboat designer, I find it quite plausible
however. In theory, the long centerboard is a much more efficient foil
but getting the high aspect ratio requires exposing a lot of
centerboard slot. Since a boat working to windward goes at an angle
through the water, the slot actually created quite a bit of drag.
Since the centerboards were flat steel plate instead of shaped foils,
the end result was a lot of maintenance, complication, and noise for
not much gain over simply making the keel about six inches deeper.

The keel on the E32 is quite thick which hurts her stability as I
noted above. A nice byproduct though is a huge bilge sump. My
fingers can just barely reach the bottom of it when lying on the cabin
sole and it is wide enough to put batteries or an additional fuel tank
down there. Having a lot of deep bilge volume is a good thing if you
ever take a sea and get a lot of water in the boat. It quickly drains
down low where it doesn't harm the stability and doesn't wash up and
down inside the cabin liner working it's way into everything.

11 out of 13 eh? That's better than I would have expected but in line
with my thinking that she falls right between the cruisers and racers
with as much comfort as cruisers the same size.

After two years, I love this boat. If anything happened to her, I'd go
looking for another one tomorrow.

--

Roger Long



wrote in message
...
I have just checked the RYC spring series result and the Endeavour is
listed as 11 out of 13 racing sailboat the last one being a C&C.
Not bad for a cruising design boat. The Endeavour we have at our
club has a solid keel not a swing keel.


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
wrote

At our club when everyone else is heeling with the rub rail close
to the water and getting their ears wet, our friend in his E32
sails along with minimum listing of 15 to 20 degrees.


I find that a extremely interesting comment. I never race so I
haven't been able to compare the E32 to other boats. My impression
is that the E32 is not a very stiff boat due to heavy construction
and a lot of volume in the keel (a heritage from the keel /
centerboard original design) that reduces its effectiveness. 20
degree heel with 130% Genoa is reached at lower wind speeds than
what I would expect from my long ago yacht designing days.

I'm usually heeled more than other boats but I tend to be a hard
driver and the boat goes very well at 30 degrees. Displacement
alone is one contributor to stiffness so the E32 might compare well
in heel to a very light boat of the same sail area even though the
more modern one was wider and stiffer.

It's not a fast boat by racing standards but that just means it's
5% slower in a lot of conditions than a racing type. At the same
time, it's 5% faster than a lot of traditional cruisers of the same
motion comfort and lack of pounding as they go to windward.

Good compromise if you ask me.

--

Roger Long










Gary August 5th 06 11:48 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
Roger Long wrote:
"Gary" wrote


In fact, the best cruisers are somewhere between being a fin keel,
spade rudder setup. Look at the hulls of Valiant and Pacific
Seacraft. I believe they are a very good compromise.




That pretty much describes the E 32 underbody.

If you go to:

http://www.image-ination.com/sailcalc.html

You can look at the numbers of hundreds of boats. I compared your E 32
with my Truant 33 and they are remarkably similar.

Gary

Peter Bennett August 6th 06 12:26 AM

My very first boat!!!
 
On 4 Aug 2006 22:50:44 -0700, "Praxi" wrote:

Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to look
for?


I suggest you charter boats for a few trips - you can try a variety of
boats in various sizes to see what works best for you.



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

Roger Long August 6th 06 12:55 AM

My very first boat!!!
 
What's a Truant 33? I never heard of one and Google doesn't turn
anything up.

--

Roger Long



"Gary" wrote in message
news:Ze9Bg.326088$IK3.279016@pd7tw1no...
Roger Long wrote:
"Gary" wrote


In fact, the best cruisers are somewhere between being a fin keel,
spade rudder setup. Look at the hulls of Valiant and Pacific
Seacraft. I believe they are a very good compromise.




That pretty much describes the E 32 underbody.

If you go to:

http://www.image-ination.com/sailcalc.html

You can look at the numbers of hundreds of boats. I compared your E
32 with my Truant 33 and they are remarkably similar.

Gary




Wayne.B August 6th 06 02:51 AM

My very first boat!!!
 
On Sat, 05 Aug 2006 16:26:25 -0700, Peter Bennett
wrote:

I suggest you charter boats for a few trips - you can try a variety of
boats in various sizes to see what works best for you.


And *that* is really good advice.

You really don't know what is important to you on a boat until you've
lived with it for awhile.


Gordon August 6th 06 04:54 AM

My very first boat!!!
 
Was aboard a Hans Christian 43 the other day. Big, heavy (40000#), full
keel, all teak and holley, leather upholstery, yada yada yada.
With opulence like that, who cares about speed!
G
"Gary" wrote in message
news:%H6Bg.321315$Mn5.165870@pd7tw3no...
wrote:
Years ago, according to Sailing magazine testing -- the fastest sailboat

to
claw off a coast line (getting away from an rough and threatening coast
line) is a sloop rig with a fin keel.

As for the full keel and attached rudder I agreed that it will not act

as a
lobster pot catcher the way the fin keel and suspended rudder are doing.
They only draw back I see is it may not turn as fast as the fin keel.
Nevertheless for long passage making it is still well preferred.

Won't turn as fast;
Won't sail as fast;
More hull to sand and paint;
Much heavier displacement;
Wetter ride in heavy weather; and
Much heavier gear (more expensive) for a given size boat.

That being said, the Folkboat and its derivatives (Contessa 26,
Vancouver 26, Marie Holm) are some of the most attractive and seaworthy
boats around.

Gary




"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news:442Bg.60$AF1.49@trndny03...




Gary August 6th 06 08:03 AM

My very first boat!!!
 
Roger Long wrote:
What's a Truant 33? I never heard of one and Google doesn't turn
anything up.

Same as a Saturna 33. Bill Garden designed pilothouse.

Lee Haefele August 6th 06 12:50 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
You can buy boats in this size range from about $5000 to $300,000, did you
have a budget in mind? Where will you sail? Small lake, big lake, ocean?
Do you need dockage and or winter storage, have you priced these? There is
a serviceable, rugged 22' Hurley F/S at Ithaca, NY, for $2000, winter
storage is $900.
Lee Haefele
"Praxi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to look
for?

Thank you,




Gary August 6th 06 03:22 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
Gary wrote:
Roger Long wrote:

What's a Truant 33? I never heard of one and Google doesn't turn
anything up.

Same as a Saturna 33. Bill Garden designed pilothouse.

Some online pics of my Truant:


http://community.webshots.com/album/515778647hanuJn

Brian Whatcott August 6th 06 07:16 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 07:03:26 GMT, Gary wrote:

Roger Long wrote:
What's a Truant 33? I never heard of one and Google doesn't turn
anything up.

Same as a Saturna 33. Bill Garden designed pilothouse.



Looks good. What happens if you lurch against the stainless cooker
vent in a blow?

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

Gary August 6th 06 07:36 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 07:03:26 GMT, Gary wrote:


Roger Long wrote:

What's a Truant 33? I never heard of one and Google doesn't turn
anything up.


Same as a Saturna 33. Bill Garden designed pilothouse.




Looks good. What happens if you lurch against the stainless cooker
vent in a blow?

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

When it is blowing (and we are sailing), The Charlie Noble comes off and
we close the hole, then there is less chance of flailing sheets
snagging the stove pipe. We then use an alcohol stove that fits over the
Dickinsen. The stove pipe is pretty well out of the way behind the
lower forward shrouds and it would be difficult to lurch against it but
never the less it comes off in a blow. I presume you are talking about
the outside portion of the stack.

The Dickinsen is primarily a fall, winter and spring stove here in the
PNW. It keeps the boat warm and dry. On cool summer evenings we light
it but not often.

Gary

Paul Cassel August 6th 06 08:56 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
Gary wrote:

When it is blowing (and we are sailing), The Charlie Noble comes off and
we close the hole, then there is less chance of flailing sheets
snagging the stove pipe. We then use an alcohol stove that fits over the
Dickinsen. The stove pipe is pretty well out of the way behind the
lower forward shrouds and it would be difficult to lurch against it but
never the less it comes off in a blow. I presume you are talking about
the outside portion of the stack.

The Dickinsen is primarily a fall, winter and spring stove here in the
PNW. It keeps the boat warm and dry. On cool summer evenings we light
it but not often.

Do you run that stove while sailing? I had a Cole / coal stove on one of
my boats, but it was for at anchor only.

Brian Whatcott August 6th 06 11:57 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:36:52 GMT, Gary wrote:

Looks good. What happens if you lurch against the stainless cooker
vent in a blow?

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

When it is blowing (and we are sailing), The Charlie Noble comes off and
we close the hole, then there is less chance of flailing sheets
snagging the stove pipe. We then use an alcohol stove that fits over the
Dickinsen.

//
Gary



Ah yes.

Thanks

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

Gary August 7th 06 01:12 AM

My very first boat!!!
 
Paul Cassel wrote:
Gary wrote:


When it is blowing (and we are sailing), The Charlie Noble comes off
and we close the hole, then there is less chance of flailing sheets
snagging the stove pipe. We then use an alcohol stove that fits over
the Dickinsen. The stove pipe is pretty well out of the way behind
the lower forward shrouds and it would be difficult to lurch against
it but never the less it comes off in a blow. I presume you are
talking about the outside portion of the stack.

The Dickinsen is primarily a fall, winter and spring stove here in the
PNW. It keeps the boat warm and dry. On cool summer evenings we light
it but not often.

Do you run that stove while sailing? I had a Cole / coal stove on one of
my boats, but it was for at anchor only.

Yes. It draws fine unless I am close hauled on a starboard tack, then I
have to turn it up a bit to keep that draft working well.

Capt John August 8th 06 05:09 PM

My very first boat!!!
 

Brian Whatcott wrote:
On 4 Aug 2006 22:50:44 -0700, "Praxi" wrote:

Hi all,

I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?

Maybe recommend some boats (brand, material, year, model, etc.) to look
for?

Thank you,



There's a school of thought that says a cheap old sailing dinghy is a
whole lot cheaper to bang around in, while learning the fine points.
Going fresh to a 32 ft sailboat can be done no doubt, but not by most
without a few expensive trips to the bank.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK


Brian,

You hit the nail right on the head, a first boat should always be a
small one. Your going to learn from it, and it's going to cost you a
lot less, with a small boat, when you screw up, AND YOU WILL SCREW UP.
Bump into a pole, or another boat, while manuvering in a crowded cove
or marina with a small boat, and most cases you end up with little more
than a brused ego. Do the same thing with a 35 foot boat, and it's a
whole differant ball game. Make no mistake about it, a 30 plus foot
boat, for a first boat, is a very big boat. I've seen people get away
with it, and every one of them thought they were doing a wounderful
job, but those people sent shivers down everyones spine when they saw
them comming.

John


Lew Hodgett August 8th 06 05:24 PM

My very first boat!!!
 
"Praxi" wrote:


I'm new to sailing and I would like to buy a (used) boat between
30-35".

I'm looking for something that I can spend a couple nights on, now and
then, while on a trip; entertain my family, and friends, and maybe live
there for a week or so.

Can someone give me some leads as to what to look for and what to stay
away from?



I started with a 30ft boat, I don't regret it.

Very easy to single hand and find overnight dockage when on cruise.

If it were me, I'd try to find a decent used 30ft Catalina.

There are lots of them around, won't cost a lot of money and be easy
to sell for what you paid for it when you want to get out.

Lew

Jere Lull August 9th 06 12:06 AM

My very first boat!!!
 
In article .com,
Peter Bennett wrote:

I suggest you charter boats for a few trips - you can try a variety of
boats in various sizes to see what works best for you.



OR crew on racing boats: Not only gives you an idea of what's out there
and what works *for you*, but you gain valuable instruction fast. The
Wednesday night "beer races" may be your best bet as they're often
looking for willing victims, so you'll likely have many boats to choose
from.

Just realize that the friendliest, mildest-mannered person becomes
"Captain Bligh" during the race. They usually apologize afterwards, but
it's almost impossible to push a boat to its best without high energy.

That said, our lovely lady does everything the OP mentioned, plus. Our
next big trip, scheduled for when I'm next between jobs, will be the two
of us in the Bahamas for a few months.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/


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