Lavac brand marine toilets
 

BocaJack wrote:
Folks, if you were going to single-hand around the world for a few
years, would you recommend a manual Lavac, or the manual Wilcox
Crittenden Skipper?

Lavac. Easy Choice. You can carry an entire spare pump for $160 and
swap it in 15 minutes.



I understand that the Skipper is the least likely to clog due to
having the largest hole.

What are you trying to flush? Tennis balls?


Also, what do you think about the idea of eliminating the 'Y' valve in
the system and just having direct to holding tank with the deck
pump-out? In a pinch, couldn't one manually pump it overboard from the
deck? Are not the macerator and Y vales the most likely place for
clogs to occur?

Mine goes direct to the holding tank with a manual pump on a y-valve.
This end of the system has been trouble free.



I've beaten the odor problem by using Trident Sani Shield hoses and
fresh water flushing. Now my concerns are clogging and
maintenance/durability.

I'm willing to pay as much as neeeded to avoid having to handle crap
off-shore.

Why would you go to a holding tank if you're planning to go offshore?


One last question. Is there anything special about the Baby Blake?
Just why is it so expensive? As a former Lexus technician, I can tell
you that a Lexus is virtually identical to a Toyota Camry LE. The
price difference is 99 percent cosmetic. Maybe it's the same with the
Baby Blake? Their website is completely void of detail. (I used one on
a Swan once. Bur didn't have time to inspect it.)


don't know.









On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 19:48:17 -0400, chuck wrote:

MMC wrote:
Have a friend that hated his when he first got the boat, but as you said,
once he learned how to use wouldn't have anything else.
I've heard you can actually flush a cat with the Lavac, probably want to go
straight over the side and not into the holding tank right?
MMC
It's a tough life for a cat.

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Lavac brand marine toilets
 

What are you trying to flush? Tennis balls?

No, but pretty close.

Also, what do you think about the idea of eliminating the 'Y' valve in
the system and just having direct to holding tank with the deck
pump-out? In a pinch, couldn't one manually pump it overboard from the
deck? Are not the macerator and Y vales the most likely place for
clogs to occur?

Mine goes direct to the holding tank with a manual pump on a y-valve.
This end of the system has been trouble free.

So the Y valve is_before_the holding tank? Isn't that illegal in many
areas?

Why would you go to a holding tank if you're planning to go offshore?

I prefer not to dump raw sewage into the ocean. Otherwise, I would
just crap over the side.

But thanks for the input!

Lavac brand marine toilets
 

BocaJack wrote:
Folks, if you were going to single-hand around the world for a few
years, would you recommend a manual Lavac, or the manual Wilcox
Crittenden Skipper?

The Lavac.

I understand that the Skipper is the least likely to clog due to
having the largest hole.

Irrelevant unless you're trying flush a cat....or something else that
shouldn't go down ANY marine toilet. Anything that should be flushed
should have no trouble going through any marine toilet.


Also, what do you think about the idea of eliminating the 'Y' valve in
the system and just having direct to holding tank with the deck
pump-out? In a pinch, couldn't one manually pump it overboard from the
deck? Are not the macerator and Y vales the most likely place for
clogs to occur?

The macerator to dump the tank is FAR more likely to fail than a
y-valve. Why store waste aboard, or be forced to maintain a tank if
you're in waters where each flush can go out of your life forever?

I've beaten the odor problem by using Trident Sani Shield hoses and
fresh water flushing. Now my concerns are clogging and
maintenance/durability.

Just about all toilets with a price tag above $200 will provide at least
20 years of trouble-free service with minimal maintenance (keep 'em
lubricated, rebuild every 5-6 years). You can prevent clogging by
flushing only body waste and quick-dissolve TP and learning how to flush
it correctly.

I'm willing to pay as much as neeeded to avoid having to handle crap
off-shore.

So why do you want to put into the tank first??? Flush it overboard and
be rid of it!


One last question. Is there anything special about the Baby Blake?

Superior engineering, superior materials, superior craftsmanship,
attention to detail, molds that are replaced before they wear out...and
host of other things that may not be evident when inspecting a new one
side-by-side with a similar copy, but are the reason why a Blake will
last for 100 years with reasonable maintenance, compared to 20 for the
best similar designs made today.

As a former Lexus technician, I can tell
you that a Lexus is virtually identical to a Toyota Camry LE.

But neither one holds a candle to a Rolls Royce. And when you understand
why, you'll understand why a Blake costs so much more than a Skipper.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

Lavac brand marine toilets
 

"BocaJack" wrote in message
...

What are you trying to flush? Tennis balls?

No, but pretty close.

Also, what do you think about the idea of eliminating
the 'Y' valve in
the system and just having direct to holding tank with
the deck
pump-out? In a pinch, couldn't one manually pump it
overboard from the
deck? Are not the macerator and Y vales the most likely
place for
clogs to occur?

Mine goes direct to the holding tank with a manual pump
on a y-valve.
This end of the system has been trouble free.

So the Y valve is_before_the holding tank? Isn't that
illegal in many
areas?


Y valve *after* the holding tank. One side of Y goes to
manual pump and then thru hull. Other side goes to deck for
marina type pump out. I believe this is what he has?

Scotty

SBV

Lavac brand marine toilets
 

BocaJack wrote:
What are you trying to flush? Tennis balls?

No, but pretty close.

Except that solid waste is 75% water...tennis balls aren't.
So the Y valve is_before_the holding tank? Isn't that illegal in many
areas?

Nope. It doesn't matter where the y-valve is, only where waste ends up.

Why would you go to a holding tank if you're planning to go offshore?

I prefer not to dump raw sewage into the ocean. Otherwise, I would
just crap over the side.

So why would you install a macerator if you don't plan to dump the tank
at sea? Or do you think a whole tankful is better for the environment
than a single flush?
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

Lavac brand marine toilets
 

So why would you install a macerator if you don't plan to dump the tank
at sea? Or do you think a whole tankful is better for the environment
than a single flush?

I don't want to install a macerator.

I am considering a new, simpler, and easier to maintain head
arrangement that would include 1) manual freshwater flushing, 2) no
macerator, 3) no Y valve, 4) Lavac or Skipper toilet, 5) just a
freshwater intake, a vent, and a deck pump-out, and 6) high-quality
hoses.

I am thinking about ordering a new Valiant 42. This set-up would
eliminate two holes in the boat, right? And, this would seem to be a
higher quality alternative to what you recommended a few strings up: a
permantent porta-potti with pump-out feature. Simple and easy to
maintain.

Just getting some ideas here. Thanks!

Lavac brand marine toilets
 

BocaJack wrote:

I am considering a new, simpler, and easier to maintain head
arrangement that would include 1) manual freshwater flushing,

And how do you plan to accomplish that if you install a toilet designed
to pull in sea water? 'Cuz no toilet designed to use raw water (sea,
lake, river etc) should ever be connected to the onboard fresh water
supply...it cannot be done without risk of e-coli contamination of the
potable water, damage to the toilet, or both...and every toilet mfr
specifically warns against it. Only toilets designed to use pressurized
flush water can safely be connected to the fresh water system...and
there is no manual toilet designed to use pressurized flush water.

2) no
macerator, 3) no Y valve, 4) Lavac or Skipper toilet, 5) just a
freshwater intake, a vent, and a deck pump-out, and 6) high-quality
hoses.


I am thinking about ordering a new Valiant 42. This set-up would
eliminate two holes in the boat, right?

Only one if you tee the head intake into the head sink drain line.

However sending everything to the tank with no way to flush directly
overboard or dump the tank at sea(flushing directly overboard is a much
better choice...no chemicals, small amounts instead of tankfuls) will
drastically reduce your cruising range...you can only stay out till the
tank gets full. And holding tanks are FAR from maintenance free.

And, this would seem to be a
higher quality alternative to what you recommended a few strings up: a
permantent porta-potti with pump-out feature.

More expensive, more complex, but not necessarily better
quality...Quality is relative. Is a Lexus better quality than bicycle?
No...that's comparing apples to tennis balls.

Simple and easy to
maintain.

If you think a tank is easy to maintain, talk to a few people who've
done it for a while. Tanks are a major PITA!

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

Lavac brand marine toilets
 

BocaJack wrote:
So why would you install a macerator if you don't plan to dump the tank
at sea? Or do you think a whole tankful is better for the environment
than a single flush?

I don't want to install a macerator.

I am considering a new, simpler, and easier to maintain head
arrangement that would include 1) manual freshwater flushing, 2) no
macerator, 3) no Y valve, 4) Lavac or Skipper toilet, 5) just a
freshwater intake, a vent, and a deck pump-out, and 6) high-quality
hoses.

I am thinking about ordering a new Valiant 42. This set-up would
eliminate two holes in the boat, right? And, this would seem to be a
higher quality alternative to what you recommended a few strings up: a
permantent porta-potti with pump-out feature. Simple and easy to
maintain.

Just getting some ideas here. Thanks!


How would you empty the tank at sea? With this arrangement it seems like
your cruising range and locations would be rather limited as you'd be
virtually tethered to marinas with pumpout facilities.

--Alan Gomes

Lavac brand marine toilets
 

Peggie Hall wrote:
BocaJack wrote:
Folks, if you were going to single-hand around the world for a few
years, would you recommend a manual Lavac, or the manual Wilcox
Crittenden Skipper?

The Lavac.

I understand that the Skipper is the least likely to clog due to
having the largest hole.

Irrelevant unless you're trying flush a cat....or something else that
shouldn't go down ANY marine toilet. Anything that should be flushed
should have no trouble going through any marine toilet.


Also, what do you think about the idea of eliminating the 'Y' valve
in the system and just having direct to holding tank with the deck
pump-out? In a pinch, couldn't one manually pump it overboard from
the deck? Are not the macerator and Y vales the most likely place for
clogs to occur?

The macerator to dump the tank is FAR more likely to fail than a
y-valve. Why store waste aboard, or be forced to maintain a tank if
you're in waters where each flush can go out of your life forever?

I've beaten the odor problem by using Trident Sani Shield hoses and
fresh water flushing. Now my concerns are clogging and
maintenance/durability.

Just about all toilets with a price tag above $200 will provide at
least 20 years of trouble-free service with minimal maintenance (keep
'em lubricated, rebuild every 5-6 years). You can prevent clogging by
flushing only body waste and quick-dissolve TP and learning how to
flush it correctly.

I'm willing to pay as much as neeeded to avoid having to handle crap
off-shore.

So why do you want to put into the tank first??? Flush it overboard
and be rid of it!


One last question. Is there anything special about the Baby Blake?

Superior engineering, superior materials, superior craftsmanship,
attention to detail, molds that are replaced before they wear
out...and host of other things that may not be evident when
inspecting a new one side-by-side with a similar copy, but are the
reason why a Blake will last for 100 years with reasonable
maintenance, compared to 20 for the best similar designs made today.

As a former Lexus technician, I can tell
you that a Lexus is virtually identical to a Toyota Camry LE.

But neither one holds a candle to a Rolls Royce. And when you
understand why, you'll understand why a Blake costs so much more than
a Skipper.

Many years ago I owned a thirty-footer with a Baby Blake. I didn't realize
at the time that I was sitting on a valuable appreciating asset! Should have
asked more for the boat when I sold it!

Dennis.

Lavac brand marine toilets
 

BocaJack wrote:
Folks, if you were going to single-hand around the world for a few
years, would you recommend a manual Lavac, or the manual Wilcox
Crittenden Skipper?

I understand that the Skipper is the least likely to clog due to
having the largest hole.


The W-C Skipper is not a vacuum head.

Also, what do you think about the idea of eliminating the 'Y' valve in
the system and just having direct to holding tank with the deck
pump-out?

That can be done easily. No legal hassles in many places, too.

... In a pinch, couldn't one manually pump it overboard from the
deck?

Yes, if you wanted to & had the pump & hoses with the right
fittings.

... Are not the macerator and Y vales the most likely place for
clogs to occur?


Not in my experience, although the macerator pump is one of
the most likely to fail components.


I've beaten the odor problem by using Trident Sani Shield hoses and
fresh water flushing. Now my concerns are clogging and
maintenance/durability.

I'm willing to pay as much as neeeded to avoid having to handle crap
off-shore.


Why? If you are that neurotic about the possibility of
having to touch poo-poo then you should take up another
hobby. Not gardening...

One last question. Is there anything special about the Baby Blake?
Just why is it so expensive? As a former Lexus technician, I can tell
you that a Lexus is virtually identical to a Toyota Camry LE. The
price difference is 99 percent cosmetic.

Don't forget the advertising.

.... Maybe it's the same with the
Baby Blake?

Maybe, but I doubt it.

It is rather funny that many companies market the exact same
product under different banners for different prices, the
'family value' label for economy and the 'prestige' label
for those who get an ego boost from paying $100 for a $10
item. But don't get so cynical that you believe *everything*
is marketed this way.

One of the reasons why the above works is the predictability
of so many people buying the cheapest possible product, no
matter how shoddy it is. This definitely applies to boats.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King