Although, if the pump diaphragm is starting to leak air on the back
stroke, wouldn't air bubbles or froth start to show up in the water
stream? I haven't seen any yet.

--

Roger Long

Roger Long wrote:
The sink drain "T" into the head intake line works great although
it means a lot of head pumping.

What I meant by lots of head pumping was filling a 13 gallon holding
tank by pumping the head.

You--and most other boat owners too--need to learn to use the "dry" mode
to do more than pump the last of the water out of the bowl. Few people
realize that any manual toilet that's working anywhere near factory
specs can move bowl contents up to 6 linear feet (further if you get
some help from gravity, at least 4' vertically, in the dry mode. You can
cut your flush water by at least 50%, doubling the number of flushes
your tank can hold if you'll do this:

Pump only 2-3x in the wet mode to wet the bowl ahead of use...or add 2-3
cupfuls from the sink ahead of solids. Switch to dry. After use, pump
enough times in the dry mode to move the bowl contents to the
tank...then switch to wet only long enough to rinse the bowl...and back
to dry to push the rinse water through to the tank.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

Roger Long wrote:
Although, if the pump diaphragm is starting to leak air on the back
stroke, wouldn't air bubbles or froth start to show up in the water
stream? I haven't seen any yet.

Nope...and you won't. 'Cuz it's not PULLING any air into the line, it's
just a slight air leak that breaks the prime.



--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

"Peggie Hall" wrote tank by pumping the head.

You--and most other boat owners too--need to learn to use the "dry"
mode

It does work and I use a variation of this method. The variation is
only because our Groco, at least, requires more wet strokes to move
paper to the bottom As soon as stuff is out of sight, I switch to
dry.

At the end of any weekend trip or day sail with lots of guests, I do a
long wet flush from empty to be sure the line is clear.

In view of the difficulty most guests have with the regular method,
even with printed instructions, I think I'll just put up with more
frequent trips to the pump out instead of trying to add another lever
sequence.

BTW tightening up that hose clamp has brought the water off pump
cycling of my fresh water pressure set down to only about once every
2 -3 hours. I can't fix the last little drip until I move the pump so
I can get at a metal joint on the tank that is weeping slightly but
it's quite livable. I'll do that when I install the accumulator tank
I bought yesterday.

--

Roger Long

"Roger Long" wrote in news:a1Bsg.19945$O35.10662
@twister.nyroc.rr.com:

A failing/failed diaphragm wouldn't cause the pump to leak...it
creates an air leak in the pump ....

Ah, light dawns! It's harder to make things vacuum tight than pressure
tight and much, much, harder than watertight. Developing porosity in
the rubber would do exactly what you describe.


The little rubber valves holding back the pressurized water from going back
into the supply tank also leak. They don't fill the bilge and nothing
leaks out of the pump as it goes back into the tank.

That damned buzzing of the pump coming on every 2 minutes for no apparent
reason while you're laying there thinking about all the things that can
sink the boat while you sleep just drives me crazy....trying to get to
sleep in the first place.

Same goes for the stupid electronic bilge pumps that come on to see if
something is there to pump all night....

"Why did that come on? I better get up and check, again."....and
again...and....nuts.

Roger Long wrote:
I woke up last night to the sound of the fresh water. I'd left the
switch on and it started in the middle of the night. The pump was
running dry and the water tank was empty.

Hi All:

Help me out here. Why do I need a preasure water system for my
drinking/galley water.

For that matter why a water heater? Yea I know to have hot water. So
why need hot water?

Bob wrote:
Roger Long wrote:
I woke up last night to the sound of the fresh water. I'd left the
switch on and it started in the middle of the night. The pump was
running dry and the water tank was empty.

Hi All:

Help me out here. Why do I need a preasure water system for my
drinking/galley water.

For that matter why a water heater? Yea I know to have hot water. So
why need hot water?


You don't need either but you (or others) may want them.

Personally, I enjoy dropping the hook after a long sail and taking a
nice hot shower before hitting the sack.

YMMV

--AG

"Bob" wrote
Hi All:

Help me out here. Why do I need a pressure water system for my
drinking/galley water.

For that matter why a water heater? Yea I know to have hot water. So
why need hot water?


Because it came with the boat and now I've been softened, corrupted.
Gosh, it was so much fun to be hunched naked over a bucket of tipid
water in the cockpit on a cool Maine morning with a sponge. A proper
hot shower is sort of like GPS, it takes all the fun and charm out of
cruising but, once you've tried it, you can't give it up.

Besides, it's so much fun to see the faces of visitors when I say,
"Look, hot running water!"

--

Roger Long

I found the leak. The PO (with typical optimism) put the brass hose
barb fitting into a brass elbow without any tape or sealant. The seep
ran down the hose to where the shelf the pump sits on was always damp.
Since it was the cold water hose, I thought it was condensation on the
hose.

Once that was tightened up, pump cycling dropped to maybe once in the
night before I installed the accumulator.

I could have lived without the accumulator after fixing the leak. The
water flow was fairly steady. It's nice though to be able to fill a
cup or brush my teeth without the pump coming on. It's also nice to
be able to get a usable amount of water when the pressure pump switch
is off. I'm not sure I would have paid the sixty bucks of materials
and my three hours work if I could have done a direct comparison
beforehand but it's nice now that it's done.

I woke up this morning and the water flowed the usual amount without
the pump coming on so the system is now completely tight.

--

Roger Long

If the pump cycles even once, there's still a leak somewhere,but it
might not be enough to bother with. After I found my leak on Tuesday,
I left the boat with the pump turned off, and I was still able to draw
a pint or two off of the accumulator a day later.


Roger Long wrote:
I found the leak. The PO (with typical optimism) put the brass hose
barb fitting into a brass elbow without any tape or sealant. The seep
ran down the hose to where the shelf the pump sits on was always damp.
Since it was the cold water hose, I thought it was condensation on the
hose.

Once that was tightened up, pump cycling dropped to maybe once in the
night before I installed the accumulator.

I could have lived without the accumulator after fixing the leak. The
water flow was fairly steady. It's nice though to be able to fill a
cup or brush my teeth without the pump coming on. It's also nice to
be able to get a usable amount of water when the pressure pump switch
is off. I'm not sure I would have paid the sixty bucks of materials
and my three hours work if I could have done a direct comparison
beforehand but it's nice now that it's done.

I woke up this morning and the water flowed the usual amount without
the pump coming on so the system is now completely tight.