Yanmar 1GM10
 

Good morning

I hope someone can help with an annoying problem.
I have a Yanmar 1GM10 inboard on my small sailing boat. It runs really well.
Recently I had it serviced, oil changed etc. including replacing the
impeller.

It has had a salt water leak for many years before I owned the boat. I have
only owned the vessel for 2 years.

The salt water is coming through the impeller housing, and dripping from the
designed hole between the impeller and the engine. I sense this is where
the engine shaft goes through to drive the impeller. It is not coming
from a gasket - that would be too easy! I did not see what the seal is like
where the shaft enters the area of the impeller. Is there a replaceable
seal there? Will it need a new impeller housing? I hope not. No gaskets
are leaking at all. He put on a new gasket when he replaced the impeller.

I would appreciate any information you may have in this regard.

Many thanks

Yanmar 1GM10
 

Do you mean the hole where the shaft that drives the impeller goes
into the engine or a small hole on top of the pump housing?

--

Roger Long



"Shawnews" wrote in message
news:_Obng.88432$IK3.60860@pd7tw1no...
Good morning

I hope someone can help with an annoying problem.
I have a Yanmar 1GM10 inboard on my small sailing boat. It runs
really well. Recently I had it serviced, oil changed etc. including
replacing the impeller.

It has had a salt water leak for many years before I owned the boat.
I have only owned the vessel for 2 years.

The salt water is coming through the impeller housing, and dripping
from the designed hole between the impeller and the engine. I sense
this is where the engine shaft goes through to drive the impeller.
It is not coming from a gasket - that would be too easy! I did not
see what the seal is like where the shaft enters the area of the
impeller. Is there a replaceable seal there? Will it need a new
impeller housing? I hope not. No gaskets are leaking at all. He
put on a new gasket when he replaced the impeller.

I would appreciate any information you may have in this regard.

Many thanks

Yanmar 1GM10
 

Hi Roger

Not on the pump housing where the impeller is. It looks like a designed
hole, sort of oblong with rounded corners, on the narrow part of the pump
housing shaft area that drives the impeller. I am assuming the water is
coming from the housing between the impeller and drive shaft seal, then runs
along the shaft and dropping through the hole.

Thanks

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Do you mean the hole where the shaft that drives the impeller goes into
the engine or a small hole on top of the pump housing?

--

Roger Long



"Shawnews" wrote in message
news:_Obng.88432$IK3.60860@pd7tw1no...
Good morning

I hope someone can help with an annoying problem.
I have a Yanmar 1GM10 inboard on my small sailing boat. It runs really
well. Recently I had it serviced, oil changed etc. including replacing
the impeller.

It has had a salt water leak for many years before I owned the boat. I
have only owned the vessel for 2 years.

The salt water is coming through the impeller housing, and dripping from
the designed hole between the impeller and the engine. I sense this is
where the engine shaft goes through to drive the impeller. It is not
coming from a gasket - that would be too easy! I did not see what the
seal is like where the shaft enters the area of the impeller. Is there a
replaceable seal there? Will it need a new impeller housing? I hope
not. No gaskets are leaking at all. He put on a new gasket when he
replaced the impeller.

I would appreciate any information you may have in this regard.

Many thanks

Yanmar 1GM10
 

Most of the pumps I've seen have a pair of rubber seals on the shaft-
one to keep the salt water inside the pump and the other to keep the
oil inside the engine. As you've observed, leaks generally drip from
the gap in the pump housing casting.

As long as the leak is small, this is not a huge problem. However, it
won't cure itself and will only get worse. Once the seal fails
completely, you won't have good cooling flow and you will be stuck.

This is generally a pretty easy repair, once you get the pump separated
from the engine. Be sure to have the new seals in hand before you start
the repair. Depending on the age of the pump, and the amount of grit in
the water, the shaft may be scored/worn in the area of the seals.
Sometimes (eg if you are not near replacement parts) you can polish
this up with emery paper so the new seal will not be trashed.
Otherwise, you should replace the shaft while you have the pump torn
down.

There are a pair of bearings in there as well- getting them
on/off/replaced without messing them up needs some patience and the
right collection of tubes/sockets, etc to drive (or press) things apart
without trashing the bearings. Sometimes you can do the job without
having to mess with the bearings- assuming they are ok.

Water pumps and impellers are a common failure/wear area, so probably a
good place to start doing your own repairs. If you're nervous, you
could save quite a few dollars by just pulling the pump and taking it
along to your mechanic so he can do the job on his bench.

I've done this a couple of times on my Westerbeke- fortunately both
times tied to a nice quiet dock!

John

Yanmar 1GM10
 

It's not what I thought it might me. The other reply pretty well
covers it.

You need to either start taking it apart or have someone look at it.

--

Roger Long



"Shawnews" wrote in message
news:Uqdng.86933$Mn5.83948@pd7tw3no...
Hi Roger

Not on the pump housing where the impeller is. It looks like a
designed hole, sort of oblong with rounded corners, on the narrow
part of the pump housing shaft area that drives the impeller. I am
assuming the water is coming from the housing between the impeller
and drive shaft seal, then runs along the shaft and dropping through
the hole.

Thanks

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Do you mean the hole where the shaft that drives the impeller goes
into the engine or a small hole on top of the pump housing?

--

Roger Long



"Shawnews" wrote in message
news:_Obng.88432$IK3.60860@pd7tw1no...
Good morning

I hope someone can help with an annoying problem.
I have a Yanmar 1GM10 inboard on my small sailing boat. It runs
really well. Recently I had it serviced, oil changed etc.
including replacing the impeller.

It has had a salt water leak for many years before I owned the
boat. I have only owned the vessel for 2 years.

The salt water is coming through the impeller housing, and
dripping from the designed hole between the impeller and the
engine. I sense this is where the engine shaft goes through to
drive the impeller. It is not coming from a gasket - that would be
too easy! I did not see what the seal is like where the shaft
enters the area of the impeller. Is there a replaceable seal
there? Will it need a new impeller housing? I hope not. No
gaskets are leaking at all. He put on a new gasket when he
replaced the impeller.

I would appreciate any information you may have in this regard.

Many thanks

Yanmar 1GM10
 

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
It's not what I thought it might me. The other reply pretty well covers
it.

You need to either start taking it apart or have someone look at it.

--

Roger Long



"Shawnews" wrote in message
news:Uqdng.86933$Mn5.83948@pd7tw3no...
Hi Roger

Not on the pump housing where the impeller is. It looks like a designed
hole, sort of oblong with rounded corners, on the narrow part of the pump
housing shaft area that drives the impeller. I am assuming the water is
coming from the housing between the impeller and drive shaft seal, then
runs along the shaft and dropping through the hole.

Thanks

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Do you mean the hole where the shaft that drives the impeller goes into
the engine or a small hole on top of the pump housing?

--

Roger Long



"Shawnews" wrote in message
news:_Obng.88432$IK3.60860@pd7tw1no...
Good morning

I hope someone can help with an annoying problem.
I have a Yanmar 1GM10 inboard on my small sailing boat. It runs really
well. Recently I had it serviced, oil changed etc. including replacing
the impeller.

It has had a salt water leak for many years before I owned the boat. I
have only owned the vessel for 2 years.

The salt water is coming through the impeller housing, and dripping
from the designed hole between the impeller and the engine. I sense
this is where the engine shaft goes through to drive the impeller. It
is not coming from a gasket - that would be too easy! I did not see
what the seal is like where the shaft enters the area of the impeller.
Is there a replaceable seal there? Will it need a new impeller
housing? I hope not. No gaskets are leaking at all. He put on a new
gasket when he replaced the impeller.

I would appreciate any information you may have in this regard.

Many thanks

Depco Pump may be able to help. www.depco-pump.com.

--Alan Gomes

Yanmar 1GM10
 

"John" wrote in message
ups.com...
Most of the pumps I've seen have a pair of rubber seals on the shaft-
one to keep the salt water inside the pump and the other to keep the
oil inside the engine. As you've observed, leaks generally drip from
the gap in the pump housing casting.

As long as the leak is small, this is not a huge problem. However, it
won't cure itself and will only get worse. Once the seal fails
completely, you won't have good cooling flow and you will be stuck.

This is generally a pretty easy repair, once you get the pump separated
from the engine. Be sure to have the new seals in hand before you start
the repair. Depending on the age of the pump, and the amount of grit in
the water, the shaft may be scored/worn in the area of the seals.
Sometimes (eg if you are not near replacement parts) you can polish
this up with emery paper so the new seal will not be trashed.
Otherwise, you should replace the shaft while you have the pump torn
down.

There are a pair of bearings in there as well- getting them
on/off/replaced without messing them up needs some patience and the
right collection of tubes/sockets, etc to drive (or press) things apart
without trashing the bearings. Sometimes you can do the job without
having to mess with the bearings- assuming they are ok.

On the previous engine I had, I bought a rebuild kit usually that had a new
shaft and seals.
I think this is standard for most water pumps. About every third impeller
replacement, I would order the kit.

Leanne
s/v Fundy

Yanmar 1GM10
 

On Sat, 24 Jun 2006 17:48:41 -0400, "Leanne" wrote:

On the previous engine I had, I bought a rebuild kit usually that had a new
shaft and seals.
I think this is standard for most water pumps. About every third impeller
replacement, I would order the kit.

Probably good advice since my experience is that water pumps are one
of the first things to fail at approximately 500 to 1000 hours. My
recommendation would be to buy a complete spare pump and rebuild the
old one at your leisure.

By all means, do not ignore the leaking seal. Things will only get
worse and end with a total failure at some inopportune time.

http://www.depcopump.com/home.htm

or

http://www.torresen.com/

Yanmar 1GM10
 

These engines were brought in for the Great Lakes and not meant for salt
water use.
Get that leak fixed very quick. The steel tube transferring the lubrication
oil from one side to the other runs under the leak and will rust and let the
lubricating oil drain out and you will run dry that is what happened to me.
Hundred dollars of repair/maintenance is nothing compare to a new engine.
If you do not know your way around diesel get someone that does and pay the
penalty. If you happen to lose you engine power at sea the cost will be
more. The cost for towing a boat in the US is not always free let alone the
aggravation. While you're getting the leak fixed check the lubrication
steel tube and if it is rusted replace it.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 24 Jun 2006 17:48:41 -0400, "Leanne" wrote:

On the previous engine I had, I bought a rebuild kit usually that had a
new
shaft and seals.
I think this is standard for most water pumps. About every third impeller
replacement, I would order the kit.

Probably good advice since my experience is that water pumps are one
of the first things to fail at approximately 500 to 1000 hours. My
recommendation would be to buy a complete spare pump and rebuild the
old one at your leisure.

By all means, do not ignore the leaking seal. Things will only get
worse and end with a total failure at some inopportune time.

http://www.depcopump.com/home.htm

or

http://www.torresen.com/

Yanmar 1GM10
 

wrote

These engines were brought in for the Great Lakes and not meant for
salt water use.

They run damn near forever in salt water though. Otherwise, excellent
advice.

BTW do you know if the 2GM20(H) has the oil tube in the same place and
if the pump is the same configuration?

--

Roger Long

Yanmar 1GM10
 

If you don't already have the manual(s), you might want to take a look here.
http://www.motoren.ath.cx/
BF


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
wrote

These engines were brought in for the Great Lakes and not meant for
salt water use.

They run damn near forever in salt water though. Otherwise, excellent
advice.

BTW do you know if the 2GM20(H) has the oil tube in the same place and
if the pump is the same configuration?

--

Roger Long

Yanmar 1GM10
 

"Roger Long" wrote in news:rhung.32956$W97.19823
@twister.nyroc.rr.com:

BTW do you know if the 2GM20(H) has the oil tube in the same place and
if the pump is the same configuration?



While we are talking about little Yanmars, let me make a point for all of
you to frequently check the damnable pickup tube in the coolant recovery
tank in indirectly-cooled Yanmars with heat exchanger. The tube is under
the cap, saving them money on having a proper BOTTOM outlet molded into
the tank plastic, itself, that cannot help but pickup any liquids in the
tank.

The tube under the cap starts to leak...or much worse yet falls off into
the tank....allowing, in either case, the heat exchanger to suck air as
it cools down, instead of liquid. The heat exchanger has no trouble when
it's heating putting liquid INTO the tank, but then sucks itself full of
air as it cools. This cycle continues until the heat exchanger is
DANGEROUSLY low on coolant, but when the owner inspects the level in the
tank, it looks like it has PLENTY of coolant from the high level in the
tank. As the level in the heat exchanger gets too low, the engine pukes
STEAM out into the coolant recovery tank and the engine overheats..or
worse.

Make a mark with a grease pencil of the stone cold coolant level after
inspecting the coolant level actually inside the heat exchanger's
pressure cap to make sure it's full. If that cold level ever RISES, your
pickup inside the tank is leaking or has fallen off.

Solution is a new piece of hose inside the cap that does NOT go all the
way to the bottom of the tank to pick up tank crap....5200 sealed to the
cap when it's totally dried because a hose clamp just pinches off the
cheap soft plastic the cap is made from. The 5200 makes a permanent bond
between hose and cap, I know. But, alas, caps are MUCH cheaper than
overheated diesel engines when the tube needs replacing 20 years from
now.

Unwilling to put up with this problem, I solved it permanently by
replacing the whole tank on one boat with a coolant tank out of a
car...properly made to withstand coolant pressure with a sealed cap. It
has the hose coming out the bottom fitting and will PRESSURE FILL the
heat exchanger as its pressure drops, not depend on it sucking fluid
through a straw like Yanmar. His tank was empty as it overheated blowing
steam into the Yanmar tank with the hose fallen off! The Yanmar tank
read FULL!

I'd love to survey the tanks in all the Yanmars in a large marina full of
sailboats to see how widespread the problem is. They should know better.

Yanmar 1GM10
 

I din't have any trouble saving the Volvo manual. Which one couldn't
you save.

Why not just print it out?

Mike
Larry wrote:
"BF" wrote in news:ebe45$449e92f0$48316876$18789
@FUSE.NET:

http://www.motoren.ath.cx/


The website prevents you from SAVING the manuals with a javascript
downloading. If you right click on a manual pointer, they tell you the
manuals are "their stuff" in a popup Javascript refusal. I don't know what
else their javascripts do that might be dangerous to your systems....the
code is LONG.

The Perkins 4.107/4.108 manual is missing.

Useless. The computer won't fit in the engine room so you can see the
manual....

Nuts....

Yanmar 1GM10
 

Larry wrote:

"BF" wrote in news:ebe45$449e92f0$48316876$18789
@FUSE.NET:


http://www.motoren.ath.cx/



The website prevents you from SAVING the manuals with a javascript
downloading. If you right click on a manual pointer, they tell you the
manuals are "their stuff" in a popup Javascript refusal. I don't know what
else their javascripts do that might be dangerous to your systems....the
code is LONG.

The Perkins 4.107/4.108 manual is missing.

Useless. The computer won't fit in the engine room so you can see the
manual....

Nuts....


Mine will, it's a laptop! But um, I'm afraid I'll get grease all over it.

--
Stephen

-------

For any proposition there is always some sufficiently narrow
interpretation of its terms, such that it turns out true, and
some sufficiently wide interpretation such that it turns out
false...concept stretching will refute *any* statement, and will
leave no true statement whatsoever.
-- Imre Lakatos

Yanmar 1GM10
 

Stephen Trapani wrote in news:26zng.342
:

But um, I'm afraid I'll get grease all over it.


Imagine it layin in that bilgewater washing over the nice DVD drive in the
side.....or falling over and something sharp punching a hole in the screen!

Yecch...(c;

Yanmar 1GM10
 

Larry wrote:

"Mike" wrote in news:1151249620.375190.181400
@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com:


I din't have any trouble saving the Volvo manual. Which one couldn't
you save.

Why not just print it out?




One of the other Perkins manuals refused to let me right-click to get to
the save function of Internet Exploder. I didn't try any of the others
after receiving the javascript warning popup window.


I downloaded the 2QM15 service manual, no problem.

--
Stephen

-------

For any proposition there is always some sufficiently narrow
interpretation of its terms, such that it turns out true, and
some sufficiently wide interpretation such that it turns out
false...concept stretching will refute *any* statement, and will
leave no true statement whatsoever.
-- Imre Lakatos

Yanmar 1GM10
 

I recommend checking-out www.yanmarhelp.com. The site was not all that
easy to find but once connected I had some very specific back and forth
discussion with their help desk guru which saved me a lot of time and
trouble figuring out an overheating problem with my 3GM30.

Good luck,
Scott

"Shawnews" wrote in message
news:_Obng.88432$IK3.60860@pd7tw1no...
Good morning

I hope someone can help with an annoying problem.
I have a Yanmar 1GM10 inboard on my small sailing boat. It runs really
well. Recently I had it serviced, oil changed etc. including replacing the
impeller.
SNIP

Yanmar 1GM10
 

"scott" jsodellatgmail.com wrote in news:12a2nvl97ipjtc6
@corp.supernews.com:

trouble figuring out an overheating problem with my 3GM30.

Good luck,
Scott



What was the cause of your overheating, Scott?

Yanmar 1GM10
 

It's a tough little 3GM30F which ran pretty well for many many hours with
an unrevealed slightly leaky gasket which finally got worse enough to
overheat while motorsailing into a headwind off Canaveral last January. The
increasingly leaky head gasket (between cylinders 2&3 & the pushrod gallery)
started venting into the freshwater cooling side and blowing water out and
also deposited unburnt fuel or lube oil into the remaining coolant.
Messy -- and the low water level resulted in loss of cooling efficiency.
Sailed the rest of the way to Ft. Pierce, planed the head, ground the
valves, put her back together with a new gasket and now she starts
*instantly* and runs like a charm. The only prior symptom was slow starting
when cold. More of the gory details plus some photos are probably still in
the archives at that www.yanmarhelp.com site.

Scott
S/V Itchen


"Larry" wrote in message
...
"scott" jsodellatgmail.com wrote in news:12a2nvl97ipjtc6
@corp.supernews.com:

trouble figuring out an overheating problem with my 3GM30.

Good luck,
Scott



What was the cause of your overheating, Scott?

Yanmar 1GM10
 

"scott" jsodellatgmail.com wrote in
:

It's a tough little 3GM30F which ran pretty well for many many hours
with an unrevealed slightly leaky gasket which finally got worse
enough to overheat while motorsailing into a headwind off Canaveral
last January. The increasingly leaky head gasket (between cylinders
2&3 & the pushrod gallery) started venting into the freshwater cooling
side and blowing water out and also deposited unburnt fuel or lube
oil into the remaining coolant.
Messy -- and the low water level resulted in loss of cooling
efficiency.
Sailed the rest of the way to Ft. Pierce, planed the head, ground the
valves, put her back together with a new gasket and now she starts
*instantly* and runs like a charm. The only prior symptom was slow
starting when cold. More of the gory details plus some photos are
probably still in the archives at that www.yanmarhelp.com site.



They really are great engines. Sorry you lost the gasket.

When I worked at Charleston Naval Shipyard, may she rest in peace, a
painting contractor had a little Yanmar all covered in paint driving a
paint pump to a whole bunch of spray nozzles up the side of our big
building. It was so covered I could hardly identify it! Cooling water
came from a garden hose from the building's water supply and the exhaust
just spit it out on the street after cooling the header and waterbox
muffler.

I asked one of the painters how much trouble they'd had with the little
Yanmar. He said, curtly, "None that I know of and I've been painting
here for years. We just change the oil in it after every job, about once
a month." It seems no other maintenance was necessary...(c; He
estimated it had over 10,000 hours on it as it runs 26 days a month,
every month, only resting as they moved it to a new contract
overnight....24 hours a day on 3 shifts!

I want a Yanmar 36hp outboard motor on a nice, long aluminum boat with a
center console and wide beam for the river, myself. A Yanmar outboard
costs about the same as a Mercedes-Benz E-class from an MB
dealer...dammit.

They cost so much Yanmar dealers in the states don't have them!

Yanmar 1GM10 Thank you for all your help
 

The screw that holds the cam (shoe) in place can also leak.
Lee Haefele
"Shawnews" wrote in message
news:qIjog.100130$iF6.39660@pd7tw2no...
Thanks everyone for your help. You confirmed my assumptions, and gave
good advice.

Thanks


"Shawnews" wrote in message
news:_Obng.88432$IK3.60860@pd7tw1no...
Good morning

I hope someone can help with an annoying problem.
I have a Yanmar 1GM10 inboard on my small sailing boat. It runs really
well. Recently I had it serviced, oil changed etc. including replacing
the impeller.

It has had a salt water leak for many years before I owned the boat. I
have only owned the vessel for 2 years.

The salt water is coming through the impeller housing, and dripping from
the designed hole between the impeller and the engine. I sense this is
where the engine shaft goes through to drive the impeller. It is not
coming from a gasket - that would be too easy! I did not see what the
seal is like where the shaft enters the area of the impeller. Is there a
replaceable seal there? Will it need a new impeller housing? I hope
not. No gaskets are leaking at all. He put on a new gasket when he
replaced the impeller.

I would appreciate any information you may have in this regard.

Many thanks