That's not a very nice answer. It's still a sailboat.

If working properly, the manual pump will pump whatever is in the bowl out,
and can also pump seawater into the bowl if desired. My experience is w/ a
newer Jabsco, but should be the same.

Sounds like your pump needs a rebuild kit, also a vented loop in the hose
between the top of the pump and the top of the bowl. I think the lake is
slowly filling your tank all the time.

"G&G" wrote in message
. ..
Your first mistake was buying a Hunter. sorry.
G
wrote in message
oups.com...
I just bought a new boat (to me) and have some head questions.

First some info:

Boat - Hunter 34, 1983

Head - Jabsco manual head

Now my problems and questions:

1. My toilet is filling up with water after it is pumped dry. I am
assuming this is fresh water (lake inlet) but am not usre

2. My holding tank seems to be filling up a lot faster than it should.
I have about a 20 gallon holding tank and it is full after a day sail
with light use. Keep in mind this includes a week's worth of sitting
without use.

3. I'm not familar with one part of the unit...Right next to the head
there is a manual pump. A hose comes in through a thru-hull and does a
loop that wraps back through the pump and to the holding tank. Is this
to pump out of the tank to the lake or the opposite?

Any help would be appreciated.

Sounds like your pump needs a rebuild kit, also a vented loop in the hose
between the top of the pump and the top of the bowl. I think the lake is
slowly filling your tank all the time.

I agree with your diagnosis, but only part of your recommended
cure....neither rebuilding nor replacing the joker valve can solve every
problem...in fact, actually doesn't solve 99.999% of problems.

Rebuilding the toilet (replacing all the rubber parts in the pump) will
not prevent water from flooding the bowl via an open through-hull if the
pump in left in the "wet" mode. In the absense of a vented loop, a
failed wet/dry valve (VERY common in Jabsco toilets unfortunately) could
allow water to flood the bowl even if the lever is in the dry mode...but
rebuilding the toilet won't cure that because the necessary replacement
part isn't in the rebuild kit. So as long the toilet is bringing in
flush water and pushing bowl contents out, rebuilding ANY toilet
(rebuilding a Jabsco for any reason is just throwing good money after
bad) would be a waste of time, energy and money.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

I figured the rubber valve at top of the pump could leak and bypass water.
And you are certainly right about the possibility of the lever being left in
the wet position. My old boat csme with no vented loop, and if someone was
careless, the water would nearly fill the bowl.

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
. net...
Sounds like your pump needs a rebuild kit, also a vented loop in the hose
between the top of the pump and the top of the bowl. I think the lake is
slowly filling your tank all the time.

I agree with your diagnosis, but only part of your recommended
cure....neither rebuilding nor replacing the joker valve can solve every
problem...in fact, actually doesn't solve 99.999% of problems.

Rebuilding the toilet (replacing all the rubber parts in the pump) will
not prevent water from flooding the bowl via an open through-hull if the
pump in left in the "wet" mode. In the absense of a vented loop, a failed
wet/dry valve (VERY common in Jabsco toilets unfortunately) could allow
water to flood the bowl even if the lever is in the dry mode...but
rebuilding the toilet won't cure that because the necessary replacement
part isn't in the rebuild kit. So as long the toilet is bringing in flush
water and pushing bowl contents out, rebuilding ANY toilet (rebuilding a
Jabsco for any reason is just throwing good money after bad) would be a
waste of time, energy and money.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

Garland Gray II wrote:

I figured the rubber valve at top of the pump could leak and bypass water.
And you are certainly right about the possibility of the lever being left in
the wet position. My old boat csme with no vented loop, and if someone was
careless, the water would nearly fill the bowl.

So it's safe to assume that you DID install a vented loop? Which, btw,
should NOT be installed in the intake line between the thru-hull and the
pump..it has to go between the pump and the bowl...to replace the short
piece of hose the mfr uses to connect 'em. There are
exceptions...electric macerating toilets--in which case it's necessary
to add an electric solenoid valve--and some very high end manual toilets
that have dual pumps and don't have that short piece of hose.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

Actually, at the time I didn't know better, so I did not install a vented
loop. I'm sure I thought you couldn't put one on the intake side. (This was
a catamaran, so heeling didn't make the risk greater. ) Now that I think
about it, the survey (it was a 6 month old demonstrator boat) didn't make
mention of this deficiency.

But let me ask you about a related "theory" I have. My old boat w/o a vented
loop had very little odor from the raw water after the head had not been
used for a week or two or more. Only briefly after the first flush. My
present boat w/ a vented loop has a much stronger odor from the raw water
for many flushes. The longer raw water line because of the way the vented
loop is run must affect this, but I wonder if the contact with air in the
vented loop doesn't cause a greater odor problem ?

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
. net...
Garland Gray II wrote:

I figured the rubber valve at top of the pump could leak and bypass
water. And you are certainly right about the possibility of the lever
being left in the wet position. My old boat csme with no vented loop, and
if someone was careless, the water would nearly fill the bowl.

So it's safe to assume that you DID install a vented loop? Which, btw,
should NOT be installed in the intake line between the thru-hull and the
pump..it has to go between the pump and the bowl...to replace the short
piece of hose the mfr uses to connect 'em. There are exceptions...electric
macerating toilets--in which case it's necessary to add an electric
solenoid valve--and some very high end manual toilets that have dual pumps
and don't have that short piece of hose.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

Garland Gray II wrote:
Actually, at the time I didn't know better, so I did not install a
vented loop. I'm sure I thought you couldn't put one on the intake
side. (This was a catamaran, so heeling didn't make the risk
greater. ) Now that I think about it, the survey (it was a 6 month
old demonstrator boat) didn't make mention of this deficiency.

If the toilet is completely above the waterline, it wasn't.


But let me ask you about a related "theory" I have. My old boat w/o a
vented loop had very little odor from the raw water after the head
had not been used for a week or two or more. Only briefly after the
first flush. My present boat w/ a vented loop has a much stronger
odor from the raw water for many flushes. The longer raw water line
because of the way the vented loop is run must affect this, but I
wonder if the contact with air in the vented loop doesn't cause a
greater odor problem ?

The longer head intake line is likely to be the cause, because the
longer the line, the more sea water is left in it to sit and stagnate.
But the vented loop has nothing to do with it. For one thing, it doesn't
passively allow any air into the line, it only pulls air into a line
through which water is actively being pulled. But even if it did, adding
air (oxygen) would reduce odor, not increase it...'cuz the more aerobic
the conditions, the less odor can be produced.

However, if the vented loop is in the intake line between the thru-hull
and the pump, it is likely to create another problem: interfere with the
pump's ability to prime by introducing air into the line that the pump
is trying to start by priming. It needs to be between the pump and the
bowl where it can't interfere with toilet flushing because flush water
is being pushed, not pulled, from the pump to the bowl.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
. net...
Garland Gray II wrote:
Actually, at the time I didn't know better, so I did not install a
vented loop. I'm sure I thought you couldn't put one on the intake
side. (This was a catamaran, so heeling didn't make the risk
greater. ) Now that I think about it, the survey (it was a 6 month
old demonstrator boat) didn't make mention of this deficiency.

If the toilet is completely above the waterline, it wasn't.


It was almost completely below waterline.




But let me ask you about a related "theory" I have. My old boat w/o a
vented loop had very little odor from the raw water after the head
had not been used for a week or two or more. Only briefly after the
first flush. My present boat w/ a vented loop has a much stronger
odor from the raw water for many flushes. The longer raw water line
because of the way the vented loop is run must affect this, but I
wonder if the contact with air in the vented loop doesn't cause a
greater odor problem ?

The longer head intake line is likely to be the cause, because the longer
the line, the more sea water is left in it to sit and stagnate. But the
vented loop has nothing to do with it. For one thing, it doesn't passively
allow any air into the line, it only pulls air into a line through which
water is actively being pulled. But even if it did, adding air (oxygen)
would reduce odor, not increase it...'cuz the more aerobic the conditions,
the less odor can be produced.


I expect that the water between the vented loop and the bowl that is higher
than the top of the bowl eventually drains to the bowl, to be replaced by
air. But I'll trust your knowledge of bacteria.



However, if the vented loop is in the intake line between the thru-hull
and the pump, it is likely to create another problem: interfere with the
pump's ability to prime by introducing air into the line that the pump is
trying to start by priming. It needs to be between the pump and the bowl
where it can't interfere with toilet flushing because flush water is being
pushed, not pulled, from the pump to the bowl.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304