deck hatches
 

I need to buy a new deck hatch. The choice seems to be either a Lewmar 60 or
a Houdini super 50 foredeck hatch. They are both the same size (they're
both the same size) The Lewmar has Perspex (12mm I think) and the Houdini
6mm toughen glass. Houdini are a lot cheaper and I quite like the idea of
toughened glass, but is toughened glass likely to shatter into little
squares if it's walloped by a clew or similar object

deck hatches
 

Nigel wrote:

I need to buy a new deck hatch. The choice seems to be either a Lewmar 60
or a Houdini super 50 foredeck hatch.

There's also Gebo. I've recently replaced a Lewmar 60 (I think it's a
60 - approx hole size 50x50cm) with a Gebo from Seateach for £237.

They are both the same size (they're both the same size)

Something tells me they might be the same size.

The Lewmar has Perspex (12mm I think) and the Houdini
6mm toughen glass. Houdini are a lot cheaper

My Lewmar was of the older "roll-stop" design. I replaced it because
the perspex had cracked, as a result of the Lewmar's design feature
that the click-stops only go as far as 90 degrees. If you push open
beyond straight-up, it just falls fully open, unbraked, onto whatever
happens to be lying on deck at the time, such as the anchor. :-(

You can have my broken Lewmar if you like, and if you want to see if
you can pop the perspex out of its frame and source a replacement, and
drill holes for the handles and transfer them.

You can have it for £0 plus postage.

deck hatches
 

Nigel wrote:
I need to buy a new deck hatch. The choice seems to be either a Lewmar 60 or
a Houdini super 50 foredeck hatch. They are both the same size (they're
both the same size) The Lewmar has Perspex (12mm I think) and the Houdini
6mm toughen glass. Houdini are a lot cheaper and I quite like the idea of
toughened glass, but is toughened glass likely to shatter into little
squares if it's walloped by a clew or similar object


Yes. Glass breaks, perspex scratches and goes foggy. That's the choice.

deck hatches
 

If reglazing an existing hatch is an option, i'd strongly favor reglazing
with polycarbonate (such as Lexan). It won't weather as well as acrylic or
glass but it will be much less likely to fail in an impact. For a deck
hatch, where failure might endanger the vessel, i'd put safety first.

"Nigel" wrote in message
...
I need to buy a new deck hatch. The choice seems to be either a Lewmar 60
or
a Houdini super 50 foredeck hatch. They are both the same size (they're
both the same size) The Lewmar has Perspex (12mm I think) and the Houdini
6mm toughen glass. Houdini are a lot cheaper and I quite like the idea of
toughened glass, but is toughened glass likely to shatter into little
squares if it's walloped by a clew or similar object

deck hatches
 

"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...
If reglazing an existing hatch is an option, i'd strongly favor reglazing
with polycarbonate (such as Lexan). It won't weather as well as acrylic
or
glass but it will be much less likely to fail in an impact. For a deck
hatch, where failure might endanger the vessel, i'd put safety first.

It's slightly off topic, but I carry some plywood cut-outs to act as
emergency hatch closers in the event of a hatch or window breaking while at
sea. As you say, a hatch failure could threaten the boat and it could be
difficult to make one up in a hurry when offshore. It also means you always
have a useful bit of ply around if needed for other things, and they're easy
to stow as they are small and flat enough to sit at the bottom of a locker.

deck hatches
 

Duncan Heenan wrote:
"Jim Conlin" wrote

For a deck hatch, where failure might endanger the vessel, i'd put
safety first.

It's slightly off topic, but I carry some plywood cut-outs to act as
emergency hatch closers in the event of a hatch or window breaking

How would you fix the forehatch board in place if the glass/perspex were
to break?

Pete

deck hatches
 

"Pete Verdon" d wrote in
message ...
Duncan Heenan wrote:
"Jim Conlin" wrote

For a deck hatch, where failure might endanger the vessel, i'd put
safety first.

It's slightly off topic, but I carry some plywood cut-outs to act as
emergency hatch closers in the event of a hatch or window breaking

How would you fix the forehatch board in place if the glass/perspex were
to break?

Pete
Mine are fashioned on the assumption that the whole of the hinged opening
part, frame and all, has gone (or is folded flat), and simply blanks off the
opening.

deck hatches
 

Duncan Heenan wrote:
"Pete Verdon" d wrote

How would you fix the forehatch board in place if the glass/perspex were
to break?

Mine are fashioned on the assumption that the whole of the hinged opening
part, frame and all, has gone (or is folded flat), and simply blanks off the
opening.

Right, but how do you plan to secure it in place?

I'm not trying to nitpick, by the way, I'm just curious.

Pete

deck hatches
 

Nigel,
Houdini sells these with polycarbonate as well, but they are junk. If all
you want to do is stay tied up, they are probably OK. I dropped 1500 pounds
Sterling on 2 companionway hatches a while back. These were sliders. No
matter how I installed them, they stuck and would never slide well. They
scratched and they leaked. I threw them away in the end and designed and
built my own out of stainless and armor glass.

Please do not confuse the different categories of glass. There are many and
they go by different names in different countries. Automotive glass in the
UK is called toughened glass. This glass is heat treated and cooled quickly.
This leaves the glass very hard and highly stressed. This is the wrong stuff
to use as hatches. It is also called plate glass. In the UK the glass you
need is armor glass. This glass is also heat treated but the process used
causes the glass to be stress relieved and it is delivered in an annealed
state. It is most commonly laminated with plastic in between panes of glass
for bullet proofing. It can be found up to 12mm thick. I use it 10mm thick
unlaminated. It is very scratch resistant. It doesn't fade and you can
literally beat on it with a hammer and bow it under severe load and it
doesn't break. It is the best, but it isn't cheap.

One responder mentioned Gebo Hatches. Even though they are made in France,
they are very good. I have 13 in use. They do not leak and parts are readily
available.
Steve


"Nigel" wrote in message
...
I need to buy a new deck hatch. The choice seems to be either a Lewmar 60
or a Houdini super 50 foredeck hatch. They are both the same size (they're
both the same size) The Lewmar has Perspex (12mm I think) and the Houdini
6mm toughen glass. Houdini are a lot cheaper and I quite like the idea of
toughened glass, but is toughened glass likely to shatter into little
squares if it's walloped by a clew or similar object

deck hatches
 

Duncan Heenan wrote:
"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...

If reglazing an existing hatch is an option, i'd strongly favor reglazing
with polycarbonate (such as Lexan). It won't weather as well as acrylic
or
glass but it will be much less likely to fail in an impact. For a deck
hatch, where failure might endanger the vessel, i'd put safety first.


It's slightly off topic, but I carry some plywood cut-outs to act as
emergency hatch closers in the event of a hatch or window breaking while at
sea. As you say, a hatch failure could threaten the boat and it could be
difficult to make one up in a hurry when offshore. It also means you always
have a useful bit of ply around if needed for other things, and they're easy
to stow as they are small and flat enough to sit at the bottom of a locker.



Good idea!