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heating
Interested in a discussion oriented towards people who are looking to
live aboard, of ways to safely heat a cruising sailboat at dockside. SH |
heating
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heating
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heating
A reverse cycle heat pump is the least trouble, but only good until
the water temps drops below 38F or so. I built a gizmo that allowed me to run it all winter, but it wasn't very energy efficient. Its main advantage is that you aren't tripping over electric spece heaters all the time. We have an Espar diesel forced-air furnace for when it gets colder or when we are away from the dock. wrote in message oups.com... Interested in a discussion oriented towards people who are looking to live aboard, of ways to safely heat a cruising sailboat at dockside. SH |
heating
Hello SH,
We lived on our boat in the Seattle area for 2 years. Heating was a real challenge as we had a 15amp dock. The refrigerator and hot water heater would cycle at random times so we had a little portable electric heater that we could set on low and put it on a 20' extension cord. We had a diesel stove in the forward down galley which worked great for the front half of the boat. It burned about 1 gal a day. We had a free-standing fireplace in the up main Saloon, and we burned presto logs. Incidently, we had to break off sections and found a claw hammer did that easy enough. The down aft stateroom was the biggest problem. We would drag our little electric heater down there but it was pretty nippy when we hit the sack. The second winter I discovered a god send for the master stateroom. An electric blanket. It was toasty, drew minimal current, and we did not have problems with condensation on the bottom side of the mattress. I always thought the solution would be a Espar diesel forced-air furnace as one respondent noted. In any case winter will be here soon. Have fun...dave |
heating
How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ?
Thank you, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: A reverse cycle heat pump is the least trouble, but only good until the water temps drops below 38F or so. I built a gizmo that allowed me to run it all winter, but it wasn't very energy efficient. Its main advantage is that you aren't tripping over electric spece heaters all the time. We have an Espar diesel forced-air furnace for when it gets colder or when we are away from the dock. wrote in message oups.com... Interested in a discussion oriented towards people who are looking to live aboard, of ways to safely heat a cruising sailboat at dockside. SH |
heating
Courtney Thomas wrote:
How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ? Thank you, Courtney I would guess that pumping hot water at low pressure through radiators and associated piping requires a lot less power than forced-air blowing. At least, that is our experience, and the heat is much more evenly distributed. Also, those areas which didn't need heat were simply turned off, or the radiator stat was turned low to suit the environment/occupants. The system is silent, which makes for peace and quiet. Drilling through bulkheads etc. is a darned sight easier when the holes are merely 1" dia. or less, against the 3"-4" holes required for air tubing. Quickly drying wet clothing and washed items is an absolute godsend, and this alone makes up for any disadvantages of hot water heating. The heating unit is very quick to achieve operating temperature, and for cold the system started to be effective in about 15 minutes. If an en-suite radiator is inadvertently left full on, the heads would become a sauna! Although diesel-fired, our boat seemed to survive the winter on very little fuel, admittedly, we had 2 * 60 gallon tanks, but the guage never seemed to move much over winter. I am completely sold on this form of heating against the forced-air systems. Dennis. |
heating
On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 09:55:54 GMT, "Dennis Pogson"
wrote: Courtney Thomas wrote: How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ? Thank you, Courtney I would guess that pumping hot water at low pressure through radiators and associated piping requires a lot less power than forced-air blowing. At least, that is our experience, and the heat is much more evenly distributed. Also, those areas which didn't need heat were simply turned off, or the radiator stat was turned low to suit the environment/occupants. The system is silent, which makes for peace and quiet. Drilling through bulkheads etc. is a darned sight easier when the holes are merely 1" dia. or less, against the 3"-4" holes required for air tubing. Quickly drying wet clothing and washed items is an absolute godsend, and this alone makes up for any disadvantages of hot water heating. The heating unit is very quick to achieve operating temperature, and for cold the system started to be effective in about 15 minutes. If an en-suite radiator is inadvertently left full on, the heads would become a sauna! Although diesel-fired, our boat seemed to survive the winter on very little fuel, admittedly, we had 2 * 60 gallon tanks, but the guage never seemed to move much over winter. I am completely sold on this form of heating against the forced-air systems. Dennis. Interesting observations. In countries where the need is for heating only, nobody uses blown air. It's noisy, and its dirty. But when the need is for cooling, circulating water systems are not so popular. As soon as I typed this I realised that when computer suites need cooling, the system chosen is often circulating water chillers. So even where cooling/heating systems are needed, there is room for circulating water, seems to me. Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
heating
On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 18:03:13 GMT,
Brian Whatcott wrote: On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 09:55:54 GMT, "Dennis Pogson" wrote: Courtney Thomas wrote: How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ? Thank you, Courtney I would guess that pumping hot water at low pressure through radiators and associated piping requires a lot less power than forced-air blowing. At least, that is our experience, and the heat is much more evenly distributed. Also, those areas which didn't need heat were simply turned off, or the radiator stat was turned low to suit the environment/occupants. The system is silent, which makes for peace and quiet. Drilling through bulkheads etc. is a darned sight easier when the holes are merely 1" dia. or less, against the 3"-4" holes required for air tubing. Quickly drying wet clothing and washed items is an absolute godsend, and this alone makes up for any disadvantages of hot water heating. The heating unit is very quick to achieve operating temperature, and for cold the system started to be effective in about 15 minutes. If an en-suite radiator is inadvertently left full on, the heads would become a sauna! Although diesel-fired, our boat seemed to survive the winter on very little fuel, admittedly, we had 2 * 60 gallon tanks, but the guage never seemed to move much over winter. I am completely sold on this form of heating against the forced-air systems. Dennis. Interesting observations. In countries where the need is for heating only, nobody uses blown air. It's noisy, and its dirty. But when the need is for cooling, circulating water systems are not so popular. As soon as I typed this I realised that when computer suites need cooling, the system chosen is often circulating water chillers. So even where cooling/heating systems are needed, there is room for circulating water, seems to me. Brian Whatcott Altus OK Forced air also has some advantages. If your recirculating water heating system springs a leak, it's a mess, and may even damage other systems. If the forced air system leaks, then all it takes is a bit of duct tape to fix, if you want to bother. No need to bleed air out of it either, although that can also be avoided with a decent design in the water circ system. -- Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock Strip Mining Prevents Forest Fires. |
heating
Jim Richardson wrote:
On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 18:03:13 GMT, Brian Whatcott wrote: On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 09:55:54 GMT, "Dennis Pogson" wrote: Courtney Thomas wrote: How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ? Thank you, Courtney I would guess that pumping hot water at low pressure through radiators and associated piping requires a lot less power than forced-air blowing. At least, that is our experience, and the heat is much more evenly distributed. Also, those areas which didn't need heat were simply turned off, or the radiator stat was turned low to suit the environment/occupants. The system is silent, which makes for peace and quiet. Drilling through bulkheads etc. is a darned sight easier when the holes are merely 1" dia. or less, against the 3"-4" holes required for air tubing. Quickly drying wet clothing and washed items is an absolute godsend, and this alone makes up for any disadvantages of hot water heating. The heating unit is very quick to achieve operating temperature, and for cold the system started to be effective in about 15 minutes. If an en-suite radiator is inadvertently left full on, the heads would become a sauna! Although diesel-fired, our boat seemed to survive the winter on very little fuel, admittedly, we had 2 * 60 gallon tanks, but the guage never seemed to move much over winter. I am completely sold on this form of heating against the forced-air systems. Dennis. Interesting observations. In countries where the need is for heating only, nobody uses blown air. It's noisy, and its dirty. But when the need is for cooling, circulating water systems are not so popular. As soon as I typed this I realised that when computer suites need cooling, the system chosen is often circulating water chillers. So even where cooling/heating systems are needed, there is room for circulating water, seems to me. Brian Whatcott Altus OK Forced air also has some advantages. If your recirculating water heating system springs a leak, it's a mess, and may even damage other systems. If the forced air system leaks, then all it takes is a bit of duct tape to fix, if you want to bother. No need to bleed air out of it either, although that can also be avoided with a decent design in the water circ system. Since all the tubing is in under the sole, a leak (we have never experienced one!), simply goes into the bilge. The observations re forced air cooling would only apply if some form of air conditioner was in use, since the air outside a boat in hot weather may not be all that cooler than the inside air. The tubing is unlike any other I have seen on boats, thick-walled and black in colour, and with patent fittings/joints, which seem to be absolutely foolproof. I guess technology moves on, and we all have to try to keep abreast of it. Last years' fittings are out of date in no time at all. Dennis. |
heating
Courtney Thomas wrote:
How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ? The water units are more efficient in terms of amount of fuel burned per BTU transferred to the cabin air, but they are more expensive and a bit more demanding to install in most boats. Maybe a wash, unless you want to put a heater in a space distant from the furnace. Then the hot water makes sense. Dennis Pogson wrote: I would guess that pumping hot water at low pressure through radiators and associated piping requires a lot less power than forced-air blowing. Partly that, and partly that water-cooling a combustion chamber picks up more heat over a smaller area. ... At least, that is our experience, and the heat is much more evenly distributed. Also, those areas which didn't need heat were simply turned off, or the radiator stat was turned low to suit the environment/occupants. The system is silent, which makes for peace and quiet. Drilling through bulkheads etc. is a darned sight easier when the holes are merely 1" dia. or less, against the 3"-4" holes required for air tubing. True, but you have to provide routing both ways, and insulat the lines. In our boat, I ended up drilling two 1 1/4" holes thru each space for the heater lines. Still, that's less area and a bit easier to place, and can carry more heat than a 4" air duct. The heating unit is very quick to achieve operating temperature, and for cold the system started to be effective in about 15 minutes. If an en-suite radiator is inadvertently left full on, the heads would become a sauna! That agrees with our experience. Between 10 ~ 15 minutes and the heaters are hot. Takes a bit longer to warm up the space, but it's marvelous to be able to warm your hands or feet at the radiator. Although diesel-fired, our boat seemed to survive the winter on very little fuel, admittedly, we had 2 * 60 gallon tanks, but the guage never seemed to move much over winter. We kept our boat (36' tug) toasty warm thru a NC winter, admittedly not as cold as some but last winter was long & wet, for about 30 gallons of diesel... actually that included a few short trips underway, too. I am completely sold on this form of heating against the forced-air systems. My wife loves our heater, and that makes it worth everything. IMHO the forced air ones are easier to install with regard to the main unit and if routing the ducts isn't a big problem. They pump out the heat pretty quick. But the fans are noisier (our Webasto heater is totally silent except for the clicking of the fuel pump, and maybe an occasional whooshing in the furnace exhaust) and it's most often a problem to route ducting to say a fore cabin. With the water heater, you can put the radiators in series and heat several spaces from one loop. With air, you need ducts to every space. And I've known several boats with toy 2" ducting for both heat & A/C... not worth the bother, can't get enough air thru it. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
heating
On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 08:42:21 -0300, Terry Spragg wrote:
At dockside, absolutely no question, electric heaters, with hot water tank and a wood stove for back up in the event of power failure. I would burn commercial firelogs in the stove when neccessary, and keep my rear wheel drive cargo van back end full of them for ballast on slippery roads. I would want a tiny woodstove, and would cut up the firelogs to suit it's capacity using a coping saw. Be careful on which fire logs. Some, ones with wax for instance, are not suitable for woodstoves. |
heating
We have a small heater that works off of our propane tank. Don't have
heated water. This is our second year living aboard. The litttle heater works great. And as a bonus people say that it and it's little chimney look cute as hell |
heating
In my house boating days I used two oil filled wall mounted
electric heaters with built in fans and they worked great. I had 60amp service to the boat "Jim Richardson" wrote in message ... On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 18:03:13 GMT, Brian Whatcott wrote: On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 09:55:54 GMT, "Dennis Pogson" wrote: Courtney Thomas wrote: How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ? Thank you, Courtney I would guess that pumping hot water at low pressure through radiators and associated piping requires a lot less power than forced-air blowing. At least, that is our experience, and the heat is much more evenly distributed. Also, those areas which didn't need heat were simply turned off, or the radiator stat was turned low to suit the environment/occupants. The system is silent, which makes for peace and quiet. Drilling through bulkheads etc. is a darned sight easier when the holes are merely 1" dia. or less, against the 3"-4" holes required for air tubing. Quickly drying wet clothing and washed items is an absolute godsend, and this alone makes up for any disadvantages of hot water heating. The heating unit is very quick to achieve operating temperature, and for cold the system started to be effective in about 15 minutes. If an en-suite radiator is inadvertently left full on, the heads would become a sauna! Although diesel-fired, our boat seemed to survive the winter on very little fuel, admittedly, we had 2 * 60 gallon tanks, but the guage never seemed to move much over winter. I am completely sold on this form of heating against the forced-air systems. Dennis. Interesting observations. In countries where the need is for heating only, nobody uses blown air. It's noisy, and its dirty. But when the need is for cooling, circulating water systems are not so popular. As soon as I typed this I realised that when computer suites need cooling, the system chosen is often circulating water chillers. So even where cooling/heating systems are needed, there is room for circulating water, seems to me. Brian Whatcott Altus OK Forced air also has some advantages. If your recirculating water heating system springs a leak, it's a mess, and may even damage other systems. If the forced air system leaks, then all it takes is a bit of duct tape to fix, if you want to bother. No need to bleed air out of it either, although that can also be avoided with a decent design in the water circ system. -- Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock Strip Mining Prevents Forest Fires. |
heating
"Boots" wrote in news:1128978635_132625@spool6-
east.superfeed.net: In my house boating days I used two oil filled wall mounted electric heaters with built in fans and they worked great. I had 60amp service to the boat How'd ya keep the cord from getting wrapped around the prop?? -- Larry |
heating
wrote: Interested in a discussion oriented towards people who are looking to live aboard, of ways to safely heat a cruising sailboat at dockside. SH For the last two winters I have been using a Pelonius oil-filled radiator-type heater. The one I have includes a timer so this allows me to set 2 on-off cycles. I set it to turn on around 6AM to warm the boat up a bit and then off at 8AM. It comes on again around 2PM to warm things up for my return. It is a 1500 watt unit and I run it at full power instead of lower settings. I find it adds about 10C to whatever temperature is outdoors. I also have a small fan sitting behind it to blow air through the radiator assembly. The thermostat for the unit is in the housing so I figure it may shut off prematurely when the unit gets warm rather than the interior air. The fan is an attempt to lessen this possibility and also distributes the warm air. Last winter I didn't bother with the timers, just ran the unit continuously at Medium and I noticed an increase in my electric bill. Just going to set it up today for the first time this winter. The boat, C&C 37, came with an Espar and I use this in the evening if it gets particularly cold. |
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