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[email protected] October 6th 05 05:50 AM

heating
 
Interested in a discussion oriented towards people who are looking to
live aboard, of ways to safely heat a cruising sailboat at dockside.

SH


Terry Spragg October 6th 05 12:42 PM

heating
 
wrote:
Interested in a discussion oriented towards people who are looking to
live aboard, of ways to safely heat a cruising sailboat at dockside.

SH

At dockside, absolutely no question, electric heaters, with hot
water tank and a wood stove for back up in the event of power
failure. I would burn commercial firelogs in the stove when
neccessary, and keep my rear wheel drive cargo van back end full of
them for ballast on slippery roads. I would want a tiny woodstove,
and would cut up the firelogs to suit it's capacity using a coping saw.

Hot water in a well insulated tank could provide a little heat while
the wood stove got roaring, and you always want lots of electric hot
water for almost all of life's little luxuries, like showers, tea,
soup, clean clothes, etc.

The option to use engine heat for hot water and heating is not the
best use for the engine unless at sea and in need of motive power.

Besides, the noise of an engine rumbling all winter would cause
trouble with the locals, including me.

Terry K


Dennis Pogson October 6th 05 06:06 PM

heating
 
wrote:
Interested in a discussion oriented towards people who are looking to
live aboard, of ways to safely heat a cruising sailboat at dockside.

SH


The boat I sail on (50ft. LOA) has small central heating radiators, just
like the ones you have at home, with a hot fresh water system, heated from
an Eberspacher hot water heater (very tiny). The system is fully
programmable, and although we don't live aboard in the winter, she's as warm
as toast when we are working on her. Keeping the heat on 2 hrs and off
4hrs, night and day, seems to cost very little, and the batteries are kept
charged by the marina's supply thru an auto charger.

So far, no problems. This is the 4th year since installation.

Dennis.



Doug Dotson October 7th 05 01:51 AM

heating
 
A reverse cycle heat pump is the least trouble, but only good until
the water temps drops below 38F or so. I built a gizmo that allowed
me to run it all winter, but it wasn't very energy efficient. Its main
advantage is that you aren't tripping over electric spece heaters
all the time. We have an Espar diesel forced-air furnace for when it gets
colder or when we are away from the dock.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Interested in a discussion oriented towards people who are looking to
live aboard, of ways to safely heat a cruising sailboat at dockside.

SH




[email protected] October 7th 05 03:23 PM

heating
 
Hello SH,

We lived on our boat in the Seattle area for 2 years. Heating was a real
challenge as we had a 15amp dock. The refrigerator and hot water heater
would cycle at random times so we had a little portable electric heater that
we could set on low and put it on a 20' extension cord. We had a diesel
stove in the forward down galley which worked great for the front half of
the boat. It burned about 1 gal a day.

We had a free-standing fireplace in the up main Saloon, and we burned presto
logs. Incidently, we had to break off sections and found a claw hammer did
that easy enough.

The down aft stateroom was the biggest problem. We would drag our little
electric heater down there but it was pretty nippy when we hit the sack. The
second winter I discovered a god send for the master stateroom. An electric
blanket. It was toasty, drew minimal current, and we did not have problems
with condensation on the bottom side of the mattress.

I always thought the solution would be a Espar diesel forced-air furnace as
one respondent noted. In any case winter will be here soon. Have fun...dave

Courtney Thomas October 8th 05 02:29 AM

heating
 
How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ?

Thank you,
Courtney

Doug Dotson wrote:
A reverse cycle heat pump is the least trouble, but only good until
the water temps drops below 38F or so. I built a gizmo that allowed
me to run it all winter, but it wasn't very energy efficient. Its main
advantage is that you aren't tripping over electric spece heaters
all the time. We have an Espar diesel forced-air furnace for when it gets
colder or when we are away from the dock.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Interested in a discussion oriented towards people who are looking to
live aboard, of ways to safely heat a cruising sailboat at dockside.

SH





Dennis Pogson October 8th 05 10:55 AM

heating
 
Courtney Thomas wrote:
How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ?

Thank you,
Courtney

I would guess that pumping hot water at low pressure through radiators and
associated piping requires a lot less power than forced-air blowing. At
least, that is our experience, and the heat is much more evenly distributed.
Also, those areas which didn't need heat were simply turned off, or the
radiator stat was turned low to suit the environment/occupants. The system
is silent, which makes for peace and quiet. Drilling through bulkheads etc.
is a darned sight easier when the holes are merely 1" dia. or less, against
the 3"-4" holes required for air tubing. Quickly drying wet clothing and
washed items is an absolute godsend, and this alone makes up for any
disadvantages of hot water heating.

The heating unit is very quick to achieve operating temperature, and for
cold the system started to be effective in about 15 minutes. If an en-suite
radiator is inadvertently left full on, the heads would become a sauna!

Although diesel-fired, our boat seemed to survive the winter on very little
fuel, admittedly, we had 2 * 60 gallon tanks, but the guage never seemed to
move much over winter.

I am completely sold on this form of heating against the forced-air systems.


Dennis.



Brian Whatcott October 8th 05 07:03 PM

heating
 
On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 09:55:54 GMT, "Dennis Pogson"
wrote:

Courtney Thomas wrote:
How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ?

Thank you,
Courtney

I would guess that pumping hot water at low pressure through radiators and
associated piping requires a lot less power than forced-air blowing. At
least, that is our experience, and the heat is much more evenly distributed.
Also, those areas which didn't need heat were simply turned off, or the
radiator stat was turned low to suit the environment/occupants. The system
is silent, which makes for peace and quiet. Drilling through bulkheads etc.
is a darned sight easier when the holes are merely 1" dia. or less, against
the 3"-4" holes required for air tubing. Quickly drying wet clothing and
washed items is an absolute godsend, and this alone makes up for any
disadvantages of hot water heating.

The heating unit is very quick to achieve operating temperature, and for
cold the system started to be effective in about 15 minutes. If an en-suite
radiator is inadvertently left full on, the heads would become a sauna!

Although diesel-fired, our boat seemed to survive the winter on very little
fuel, admittedly, we had 2 * 60 gallon tanks, but the guage never seemed to
move much over winter.

I am completely sold on this form of heating against the forced-air systems.


Dennis.

Interesting observations. In countries where the need is for heating
only, nobody uses blown air. It's noisy, and its dirty.

But when the need is for cooling, circulating water systems are not so
popular.

As soon as I typed this I realised that when computer suites need
cooling, the system chosen is often circulating water chillers.
So even where cooling/heating systems are needed, there is room for
circulating water, seems to me.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

Jim Richardson October 9th 05 08:00 AM

heating
 
On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 18:03:13 GMT,
Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 09:55:54 GMT, "Dennis Pogson"
wrote:

Courtney Thomas wrote:
How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ?

Thank you,
Courtney

I would guess that pumping hot water at low pressure through radiators and
associated piping requires a lot less power than forced-air blowing. At
least, that is our experience, and the heat is much more evenly distributed.
Also, those areas which didn't need heat were simply turned off, or the
radiator stat was turned low to suit the environment/occupants. The system
is silent, which makes for peace and quiet. Drilling through bulkheads etc.
is a darned sight easier when the holes are merely 1" dia. or less, against
the 3"-4" holes required for air tubing. Quickly drying wet clothing and
washed items is an absolute godsend, and this alone makes up for any
disadvantages of hot water heating.

The heating unit is very quick to achieve operating temperature, and for
cold the system started to be effective in about 15 minutes. If an en-suite
radiator is inadvertently left full on, the heads would become a sauna!

Although diesel-fired, our boat seemed to survive the winter on very little
fuel, admittedly, we had 2 * 60 gallon tanks, but the guage never seemed to
move much over winter.

I am completely sold on this form of heating against the forced-air systems.


Dennis.

Interesting observations. In countries where the need is for heating
only, nobody uses blown air. It's noisy, and its dirty.

But when the need is for cooling, circulating water systems are not so
popular.

As soon as I typed this I realised that when computer suites need
cooling, the system chosen is often circulating water chillers.
So even where cooling/heating systems are needed, there is room for
circulating water, seems to me.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK




Forced air also has some advantages. If your recirculating water heating
system springs a leak, it's a mess, and may even damage other systems.
If the forced air system leaks, then all it takes is a bit of duct tape
to fix, if you want to bother. No need to bleed air out of it either,
although that can also be avoided with a decent design in the water circ
system.

--
Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock
Strip Mining Prevents Forest Fires.

Dennis Pogson October 9th 05 08:30 PM

heating
 
Jim Richardson wrote:
On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 18:03:13 GMT,
Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 09:55:54 GMT, "Dennis Pogson"
wrote:

Courtney Thomas wrote:
How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ?

Thank you,
Courtney

I would guess that pumping hot water at low pressure through
radiators and associated piping requires a lot less power than
forced-air blowing. At least, that is our experience, and the heat
is much more evenly distributed. Also, those areas which didn't
need heat were simply turned off, or the radiator stat was turned
low to suit the environment/occupants. The system is silent, which
makes for peace and quiet. Drilling through bulkheads etc. is a
darned sight easier when the holes are merely 1" dia. or less,
against the 3"-4" holes required for air tubing. Quickly drying wet
clothing and washed items is an absolute godsend, and this alone
makes up for any disadvantages of hot water heating.

The heating unit is very quick to achieve operating temperature,
and for cold the system started to be effective in about 15
minutes. If an en-suite radiator is inadvertently left full on, the
heads would become a sauna!

Although diesel-fired, our boat seemed to survive the winter on
very little fuel, admittedly, we had 2 * 60 gallon tanks, but the
guage never seemed to move much over winter.

I am completely sold on this form of heating against the forced-air
systems.


Dennis.

Interesting observations. In countries where the need is for heating
only, nobody uses blown air. It's noisy, and its dirty.

But when the need is for cooling, circulating water systems are not
so popular.

As soon as I typed this I realised that when computer suites need
cooling, the system chosen is often circulating water chillers.
So even where cooling/heating systems are needed, there is room for
circulating water, seems to me.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK




Forced air also has some advantages. If your recirculating water
heating system springs a leak, it's a mess, and may even damage other
systems. If the forced air system leaks, then all it takes is a bit
of duct tape to fix, if you want to bother. No need to bleed air out
of it either, although that can also be avoided with a decent design
in the water circ system.


Since all the tubing is in under the sole, a leak (we have never experienced
one!), simply goes into the bilge. The observations re forced air cooling
would only apply if some form of air conditioner was in use, since the air
outside a boat in hot weather may not be all that cooler than the inside
air.

The tubing is unlike any other I have seen on boats, thick-walled and black
in colour, and with patent fittings/joints, which seem to be absolutely
foolproof.

I guess technology moves on, and we all have to try to keep abreast of it.
Last years' fittings are out of date in no time at all.


Dennis.



DSK October 10th 05 11:45 AM

heating
 
Courtney Thomas wrote:
How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ?


The water units are more efficient in terms of amount of fuel burned per
BTU transferred to the cabin air, but they are more expensive and a bit
more demanding to install in most boats. Maybe a wash, unless you want
to put a heater in a space distant from the furnace. Then the hot water
makes sense.


Dennis Pogson wrote:
I would guess that pumping hot water at low pressure through radiators and
associated piping requires a lot less power than forced-air blowing.


Partly that, and partly that water-cooling a combustion chamber picks up
more heat over a smaller area.

... At
least, that is our experience, and the heat is much more evenly distributed.
Also, those areas which didn't need heat were simply turned off, or the
radiator stat was turned low to suit the environment/occupants. The system
is silent, which makes for peace and quiet. Drilling through bulkheads etc.
is a darned sight easier when the holes are merely 1" dia. or less, against
the 3"-4" holes required for air tubing.


True, but you have to provide routing both ways, and insulat the lines.
In our boat, I ended up drilling two 1 1/4" holes thru each space for
the heater lines. Still, that's less area and a bit easier to place, and
can carry more heat than a 4" air duct.



The heating unit is very quick to achieve operating temperature, and for
cold the system started to be effective in about 15 minutes. If an en-suite
radiator is inadvertently left full on, the heads would become a sauna!


That agrees with our experience. Between 10 ~ 15 minutes and the heaters
are hot. Takes a bit longer to warm up the space, but it's marvelous to
be able to warm your hands or feet at the radiator.


Although diesel-fired, our boat seemed to survive the winter on very little
fuel, admittedly, we had 2 * 60 gallon tanks, but the guage never seemed to
move much over winter.


We kept our boat (36' tug) toasty warm thru a NC winter, admittedly not
as cold as some but last winter was long & wet, for about 30 gallons of
diesel... actually that included a few short trips underway, too.

I am completely sold on this form of heating against the forced-air systems.


My wife loves our heater, and that makes it worth everything. IMHO the
forced air ones are easier to install with regard to the main unit and
if routing the ducts isn't a big problem. They pump out the heat pretty
quick. But the fans are noisier (our Webasto heater is totally silent
except for the clicking of the fuel pump, and maybe an occasional
whooshing in the furnace exhaust) and it's most often a problem to route
ducting to say a fore cabin. With the water heater, you can put the
radiators in series and heat several spaces from one loop. With air, you
need ducts to every space. And I've known several boats with toy 2"
ducting for both heat & A/C... not worth the bother, can't get enough
air thru it.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King


thunder October 10th 05 12:37 PM

heating
 
On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 08:42:21 -0300, Terry Spragg wrote:


At dockside, absolutely no question, electric heaters, with hot water tank
and a wood stove for back up in the event of power failure. I would burn
commercial firelogs in the stove when neccessary, and keep my rear wheel
drive cargo van back end full of them for ballast on slippery roads. I
would want a tiny woodstove, and would cut up the firelogs to suit it's
capacity using a coping saw.


Be careful on which fire logs. Some, ones with wax for instance, are not
suitable for woodstoves.

Whistledown October 10th 05 07:29 PM

heating
 
We have a small heater that works off of our propane tank. Don't have
heated water. This is our second year living aboard. The litttle
heater works great. And as a bonus people say that it and it's little
chimney look cute as hell


Boots October 10th 05 10:07 PM

heating
 
In my house boating days I used two oil filled wall mounted
electric heaters with built in fans and they worked great. I
had 60amp service to the boat
"Jim Richardson" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 18:03:13 GMT,
Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 09:55:54 GMT, "Dennis Pogson"
wrote:

Courtney Thomas wrote:
How do the forced air units compare with the hot water ?

Thank you,
Courtney

I would guess that pumping hot water at low pressure

through radiators and
associated piping requires a lot less power than

forced-air blowing. At
least, that is our experience, and the heat is much more

evenly distributed.
Also, those areas which didn't need heat were simply

turned off, or the
radiator stat was turned low to suit the

environment/occupants. The system
is silent, which makes for peace and quiet. Drilling

through bulkheads etc.
is a darned sight easier when the holes are merely 1" dia.

or less, against
the 3"-4" holes required for air tubing. Quickly drying

wet clothing and
washed items is an absolute godsend, and this alone makes

up for any
disadvantages of hot water heating.

The heating unit is very quick to achieve operating

temperature, and for
cold the system started to be effective in about 15

minutes. If an en-suite
radiator is inadvertently left full on, the heads would

become a sauna!

Although diesel-fired, our boat seemed to survive the

winter on very little
fuel, admittedly, we had 2 * 60 gallon tanks, but the

guage never seemed to
move much over winter.

I am completely sold on this form of heating against the

forced-air systems.


Dennis.

Interesting observations. In countries where the need is

for heating
only, nobody uses blown air. It's noisy, and its dirty.

But when the need is for cooling, circulating water

systems are not so
popular.

As soon as I typed this I realised that when computer

suites need
cooling, the system chosen is often circulating water

chillers.
So even where cooling/heating systems are needed, there is

room for
circulating water, seems to me.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK




Forced air also has some advantages. If your recirculating
water heating
system springs a leak, it's a mess, and may even damage
other systems.
If the forced air system leaks, then all it takes is a bit
of duct tape
to fix, if you want to bother. No need to bleed air out of
it either,
although that can also be avoided with a decent design in
the water circ
system.

--
Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock
Strip Mining Prevents Forest Fires.



Larry October 11th 05 02:05 AM

heating
 
"Boots" wrote in news:1128978635_132625@spool6-
east.superfeed.net:

In my house boating days I used two oil filled wall mounted
electric heaters with built in fans and they worked great. I
had 60amp service to the boat


How'd ya keep the cord from getting wrapped around the prop??

--
Larry

Gordon Wedman October 11th 05 08:43 PM

heating
 

wrote:
Interested in a discussion oriented towards people who are looking to
live aboard, of ways to safely heat a cruising sailboat at dockside.

SH



For the last two winters I have been using a Pelonius oil-filled
radiator-type heater. The one I have includes a timer so this allows me to
set 2 on-off cycles. I set it to turn on around 6AM to warm the boat up a
bit and then off at 8AM. It comes on again around 2PM to warm things up for
my return. It is a 1500 watt unit and I run it at full power instead of
lower settings. I find it adds about 10C to whatever temperature is
outdoors. I also have a small fan sitting behind it to blow air through the
radiator assembly. The thermostat for the unit is in the housing so I figure
it may shut off prematurely when the unit gets warm rather than the interior
air. The fan is an attempt to lessen this possibility and also distributes
the warm air. Last winter I didn't bother with the timers, just ran the unit
continuously at Medium and I noticed an increase in my electric bill. Just
going to set it up today for the first time this winter.

The boat, C&C 37, came with an Espar and I use this in the evening if it
gets particularly cold.




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