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bushman July 14th 05 06:56 PM

patching holding tank?
 
My holding tank has a small split 1/2" in the top, it is white plastic
(polyethylene?) 27 gallon seems fairly heavy. What is the best way to repair
this?
-Allen



Peggie Hall July 14th 05 07:11 PM

bushman wrote:
My holding tank has a small split 1/2" in the top, it is white plastic
(polyethylene?) 27 gallon seems fairly heavy. What is the best way to repair
this?


It's almost impossible to repair a PE tank, 'cuz nothing bonds
permanently to it. The only thing that does work is heat welding, which
requires melting both enough new poly and enough of the edges of the
crack to allow it all to run together to become a single mass again.
That takes a bit skill, to melt just enough of the tank without melting
enough of it weaken it. Just melting some P-Tex into the crack won't
work...'cuz unless the tank wall is blended with it, the same stress
that caused the tank to crack in the first place will cause the P-tex to
let go.

If was a water tank, I'd say give heat welding a try...or even just
drill small holes at each end of the crack to keep it from spreading any
further. If it doesn't work, it's just water. But a waste tank...if it
were mine, I'd bite the bullet and replace it.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1

Larry July 14th 05 10:29 PM

"bushman" wrote in
:

My holding tank has a small split 1/2" in the top, it is white plastic
(polyethylene?) 27 gallon seems fairly heavy. What is the best way to
repair this?
-Allen


1) Picture the wife's face when she comes aboard right after 27 gallons of
rotting s**t has run out of the damned plastic tank into the bilge.

2) Picture YOU trying to clean the bilge after it splits and getting that
awful rotting-crap smell out of the cushions, bedding, towels, clothes,
everything!

3) Picture YOU at the marine store buying a replacement with 1 and 2 still
in your mind, oblivious to the cost of the new tank.

--
Larry

This jerk called my cellphone and was nasty.
Continental Warranty -- MCG Enterprises -- Mepco-
24955 Pacific Coast HWY Suite C303
Malibu California 90265
888-244-0925
Fax: 310-456-8844
Email:
Read about them he
http://www.ripoffreport.com/view.asp...3&view=printer

Brian Whatcott July 15th 05 01:18 AM

On Thu, 14 Jul 2005 17:56:47 GMT, "bushman" wrote:

My holding tank has a small split 1/2" in the top, it is white plastic
(polyethylene?) 27 gallon seems fairly heavy. What is the best way to repair
this?
-Allen

An experienced repair person can "weld" a polythene stick into a
cracked polythene tank to mend it.
You (and I) probably can't.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

Brian Whatcott July 15th 05 01:26 AM

On Thu, 14 Jul 2005 17:29:02 -0400, Larry wrote:
....
--
Larry


This jerk called my cellphone and was nasty.
Co#####al Wa###ty -- M#####rises -- M###-
24### Pacif#####t HWY Suite C###
M###u California 90###888-244-0925


This signature makes you seem to come
off as a whiny grudge bearer with a chip.

Is this impression you wanted to send, Larry?

Don't just take my word for it, btw

Brian Whatcott Altus, OK

Peggie Hall July 15th 05 03:23 AM

Brian Whatcott wrote:
An experienced repair person can "weld" a polythene stick into a
cracked polythene tank to mend it.


True...and if it were a water tank, he'd had no trouble finding someone
who knows how...just look in the YP for "plastics mfrs." But in nearly
20 years in the marine potty biz, I have yet to find ANYone willing to
work on a used waste tank.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1

Larry July 15th 05 01:42 PM

Brian Whatcott wrote in
:

Is this impression you wanted to send, Larry?


Just ignore it. The purpose is so the spambots can collect it.

--
Larry

This jerk called my cellphone and was nasty.
Continental Warranty -- MCG Enterprises -- Mepco-
24955 Pacific Coast HWY Suite C303
Malibu California 90265
888-244-0925
Fax: 310-456-8844
Email:
Read about them he
http://www.ripoffreport.com/view.asp...3&view=printer

Robert or Karen Swarts July 15th 05 04:13 PM

I have "welded" many polyethylene parts using a common electric soldering
pencil, anywhere from 25 to 125 Watts, and scrap polyethylene from any
source. With a little practice, you could do it yourself. Melt, but do not
burn, the plastic. Welding kits are also available from Harbor Freight for
$30-$40 with "torch" and rods. Not necessarily saying you should, but if you
are looking to have something else done anyway, you might want to try it
first.

BS

"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 14 Jul 2005 17:56:47 GMT, "bushman" wrote:

My holding tank has a small split 1/2" in the top, it is white plastic
(polyethylene?) 27 gallon seems fairly heavy. What is the best way to
repair
this?
-Allen

An experienced repair person can "weld" a polythene stick into a
cracked polythene tank to mend it.
You (and I) probably can't.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK




Peggie Hall July 15th 05 05:15 PM



Robert or Karen Swarts wrote:
I have "welded" many polyethylene parts using a common electric soldering
pencil, anywhere from 25 to 125 Watts, and scrap polyethylene from any
source. With a little practice, you could do it yourself.


Welding parts together is one thing...but mending a crack in a tank adds
another dimension, because you have the weight of the contents--8.333
lb/gal for water and waste, which would be 227 lbs in a 27 gal tank)
pushing against the walls of the tank trying to pull the crack apart
again...if the contents are shifting while the boat is underway, they're
pushing even harder. Then there's quality of the original tank material
itself to consider...why it split in the first place. Even if the weld
holds, will the same forces that created the first crack cause a split
somewhere else?

So, as I said earlier, if it were a water tank he'd have little to lose
by trying to mend it. But when it comes to waste tanks, the wisest
course is replacement.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1

Gogarty July 15th 05 06:56 PM

In article ,
says...


So, as I said earlier, if it were a water tank he'd have little to lose
by trying to mend it. But when it comes to waste tanks, the wisest
course is replacement.

I spent a lot of time and effort trying to fix a polyethylene water tank in our
first boat.

Fugedaboudit!

I eventually bought a new tank


Robert or Karen Swarts July 16th 05 12:07 AM

Just a small technical correction, Peggie. The weight of salt water is, in
fact, 8.33 lb/gal, but that is misleading. The pressure exerted is .444
psi/ft. So if the tank is 2 ft deep, the pressure is only .888 psi, which
would also be the pressure on the walls at the bottom of the tank. The total
force on the wall if the tank were 1.3 ft wide on a side (for about 27 gal)
would by 166 lbs.

As long as a true "weld" is achieved equal to or greater than the wall
thickness, its integrity will be as great as the wall itself. I have
certainly welded the bottoms of polyethylene buckets one foot deep without
any problems. I can't speak to the integrity of the tank itself, of course.

BS

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
.. .


Robert or Karen Swarts wrote:
I have "welded" many polyethylene parts using a common electric soldering
pencil, anywhere from 25 to 125 Watts, and scrap polyethylene from any
source. With a little practice, you could do it yourself.


Welding parts together is one thing...but mending a crack in a tank adds
another dimension, because you have the weight of the contents--8.333
lb/gal for water and waste, which would be 227 lbs in a 27 gal tank)
pushing against the walls of the tank trying to pull the crack apart
again...if the contents are shifting while the boat is underway, they're
pushing even harder. Then there's quality of the original tank material
itself to consider...why it split in the first place. Even if the weld
holds, will the same forces that created the first crack cause a split
somewhere else?

So, as I said earlier, if it were a water tank he'd have little to lose by
trying to mend it. But when it comes to waste tanks, the wisest course is
replacement.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1




Brian Whatcott July 16th 05 12:42 AM


Interesting point that the static pressure due to hydrostatic head
only. But Peggie also mentioned a hydrodynamic effect - shifting
the fluid around in a seaway - and that force *is* sensitive to the
mass of fluid.

Brian Whatcott Altus, OK


On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 16:07:21 -0700, "Robert or Karen Swarts"
wrote:

Just a small technical correction, Peggie. The weight of salt water is, in
fact, 8.33 lb/gal, but that is misleading. The pressure exerted is .444
psi/ft. So if the tank is 2 ft deep, the pressure is only .888 psi, which
would also be the pressure on the walls at the bottom of the tank. The total
force on the wall if the tank were 1.3 ft wide on a side (for about 27 gal)
would by 166 lbs.

As long as a true "weld" is achieved equal to or greater than the wall
thickness, its integrity will be as great as the wall itself. I have
certainly welded the bottoms of polyethylene buckets one foot deep without
any problems. I can't speak to the integrity of the tank itself, of course.

BS

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
. ..


Robert or Karen Swarts wrote:
I have "welded" many polyethylene parts using a common electric soldering
pencil, anywhere from 25 to 125 Watts, and scrap polyethylene from any
source. With a little practice, you could do it yourself.


Welding parts together is one thing...but mending a crack in a tank adds
another dimension, because you have the weight of the contents--8.333
lb/gal for water and waste, which would be 227 lbs in a 27 gal tank)
pushing against the walls of the tank trying to pull the crack apart
again...if the contents are shifting while the boat is underway, they're
pushing even harder. Then there's quality of the original tank material
itself to consider...why it split in the first place. Even if the weld
holds, will the same forces that created the first crack cause a split
somewhere else?

So, as I said earlier, if it were a water tank he'd have little to lose by
trying to mend it. But when it comes to waste tanks, the wisest course is
replacement.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1




[email protected] July 16th 05 03:32 AM

Peggie Hall wrote:

Then there's quality of the original tank material
itself to consider...why it split in the first place.


Thank you, someone is thinking realistically. Certainly there are good
ways to repair cracked poly, including adding a welded doubler. But
polymerized plastics do age with time & whatever their enviromental
conditions may be, and begin to lose certain properties. Unless it
were a clear case of freeze damage or a known one-incient overpressure
burst (both unlikely?), it ought to be replaced & will be much cheaper
replaced in the end.

If you must make an *interim repair* due it being the middle of an
intinerary or pending reciept & R/R of a tank, and *if* you know how to
weld poly, you can stitch it together, double it & static hydro it
in-place (suggest at least 2x the head of deck pumpout fitting).
Accept that you won't be saving any time, work or money in the end, but
adding to them.


Larry July 16th 05 04:40 AM

"Robert or Karen Swarts" wrote in
:

Just a small technical correction, Peggie. The weight of salt water
is, in fact, 8.33 lb/gal, but that is misleading. The pressure exerted
is .444 psi/ft. So if the tank is 2 ft deep, the pressure is only .888
psi, which would also be the pressure on the walls at the bottom of
the tank. The total force on the wall if the tank were 1.3 ft wide on
a side (for about 27 gal) would by 166 lbs.



What is it when the bow slaps a 15' wave hard? This is the pressure at the
marina dock....

--
Larry

This jerk called my cellphone and was nasty.
Continental Warranty -- MCG Enterprises -- Mepco-
24955 Pacific Coast HWY Suite C303
Malibu California 90265
888-244-0925
Fax: 310-456-8844
Email:
Read about them he
http://www.ripoffreport.com/view.asp...3&view=printer

Keith July 16th 05 12:38 PM

Certainly no guarantee, but Harbor Freight has a plastics welding rig
for about $40.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41592



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