I have been wondering about this for years. Many people tell me they
have to keep their battery on a charger in order to allow their bilge
pump to run cuz their shaft packing drips so much. Huh? They cant
tighten it? My old S2 (at 20 yrs) dripped maybe every 10 secs under
way and almost nothing at the dock. When I had her out a couple yrws
ago, I figgered it was prob time to replace the packing so I dismantled
the packing assmbly and found it was really in good shape. I replaced
it anyway with some new synthetic and lubed it with synthetic grease
stuff and it leaks less than before. Even after running it for 31
hours it is cool.
Am I doing something right or doing something wrong? How come so many
other people need to use a charger on shore power for this?

In article .com,
wrote:

I have been wondering about this for years. Many people tell me they
have to keep their battery on a charger in order to allow their bilge
pump to run cuz their shaft packing drips so much. Huh? They cant
tighten it? My old S2 (at 20 yrs) dripped maybe every 10 secs under
way and almost nothing at the dock. When I had her out a couple yrws
ago, I figgered it was prob time to replace the packing so I dismantled
the packing assmbly and found it was really in good shape. I replaced
it anyway with some new synthetic and lubed it with synthetic grease
stuff and it leaks less than before. Even after running it for 31
hours it is cool.
Am I doing something right or doing something wrong? How come so many
other people need to use a charger on shore power for this?


Don't fish for compliments ;-)

(but you're right.)

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Yup, you are doing it 'right'
Most other folks either have no clue or are afraid to adjust their
stuffing box.
BTW ... next time use Gore-tex GFO all-teflon braided packing for even
better service, virtually NO drips and less hp loss



In article .com,
wrote:

I have been wondering about this for years. Many people tell me they
have to keep their battery on a charger in order to allow their bilge
pump to run cuz their shaft packing drips so much. Huh? They cant
tighten it? My old S2 (at 20 yrs) dripped maybe every 10 secs under
way and almost nothing at the dock. When I had her out a couple yrws
ago, I figgered it was prob time to replace the packing so I dismantled
the packing assmbly and found it was really in good shape. I replaced
it anyway with some new synthetic and lubed it with synthetic grease
stuff and it leaks less than before. Even after running it for 31
hours it is cool.
Am I doing something right or doing something wrong? How come so many
other people need to use a charger on shore power for this?

Rich Hampel wrote:

Yup, you are doing it 'right'
Most other folks either have no clue or are afraid to adjust their
stuffing box.
BTW ... next time use Gore-tex GFO all-teflon braided packing for even
better service, virtually NO drips and less hp loss



In article .com,
wrote:

I have been wondering about this for years. Many people tell me they
have to keep their battery on a charger in order to allow their bilge
pump to run cuz their shaft packing drips so much. Huh? They cant
tighten it? My old S2 (at 20 yrs) dripped maybe every 10 secs under
way and almost nothing at the dock. When I had her out a couple yrws
ago, I figgered it was prob time to replace the packing so I dismantled
the packing assmbly and found it was really in good shape. I replaced
it anyway with some new synthetic and lubed it with synthetic grease
stuff and it leaks less than before. Even after running it for 31
hours it is cool.
Am I doing something right or doing something wrong? How come so many
other people need to use a charger on shore power for this?



Second that recommendation for GFO packing from Gore-Tex.
Available from S&G Products in Ft. Lauderdale. Phone: 954-462-1931 in
small quantities. Changed out my packing on 230 HP inboards and has
worked very well with almost no dripping. Easy to adjust after initial
installation. No shaft heating. Dry bilge. A good solution.

Je

I cannot claim credit for how long this thing has lasted as I am the
thrid owner. Furthermore, I can see that this stuffing box is fairly
accessible so tightneing it isnt difficult. However, not being able to
tighten one would make me crazy with worry. I rarely know what I am
doing but I do it anyway. You only hear about the 1 out of 100 things
that work and not the 99 total failures. I do not really take good care
of my boat, i am just paranoid.

wrote:
I have been wondering about this for years. Many people tell me they
have to keep their battery on a charger in order to allow their bilge
pump to run cuz their shaft packing drips so much. Huh? They cant
tighten it?

In many cases, yes.
Believe it or not, lot's of boats have packing glands that are all but
inaccessible. The packing may be old & dried out, the shaft scored, the
threads crossed or stripped, etc etc.

... My old S2 (at 20 yrs) dripped maybe every 10 secs under
way and almost nothing at the dock. When I had her out a couple yrws
ago, I figgered it was prob time to replace the packing so I dismantled
the packing assmbly and found it was really in good shape. I replaced
it anyway with some new synthetic and lubed it with synthetic grease
stuff and it leaks less than before. Even after running it for 31
hours it is cool.

Sounds good... assume there is cooling water flow to the stern tube?
Otherwise it would at least be warm.

Am I doing something right or doing something wrong? How come so many
other people need to use a charger on shore power for this?


Because they don't take as good care of their boats as you do.

BTW it's not necessary to pull a boat out of the water to replace the
packing... *if* the packing gland is reasonably accessible. I've done it
in the water several times.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Tell us how you replace the packing while the boat is in the water.
TIA
"DSK" wrote in message
...
wrote:
I have been wondering about this for years. Many people tell me they
have to keep their battery on a charger in order to allow their bilge
pump to run cuz their shaft packing drips so much. Huh? They cant
tighten it?

In many cases, yes.
Believe it or not, lot's of boats have packing glands that are all but
inaccessible. The packing may be old & dried out, the shaft scored, the
threads crossed or stripped, etc etc.

... My old S2 (at 20 yrs) dripped maybe every 10 secs under
way and almost nothing at the dock. When I had her out a couple yrws
ago, I figgered it was prob time to replace the packing so I dismantled
the packing assmbly and found it was really in good shape. I replaced
it anyway with some new synthetic and lubed it with synthetic grease
stuff and it leaks less than before. Even after running it for 31
hours it is cool.

Sounds good... assume there is cooling water flow to the stern tube?
Otherwise it would at least be warm.

Am I doing something right or doing something wrong? How come so many
other people need to use a charger on shore power for this?


Because they don't take as good care of their boats as you do.

BTW it's not necessary to pull a boat out of the water to replace the
packing... *if* the packing gland is reasonably accessible. I've done it
in the water several times.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Denis Marier wrote:
Tell us how you replace the packing while the boat is in the water.

Same way you would out of the water, except with a little more care &
advance planning

It's really not a big deal, *if* you have good enough access that
reaching the packing gland itself isn't a major endeavor. Since this is
such a key part of the boat, I don't understand why so many boat
builders put so much stuff in the way. Maybe good access to key
mechanical parts is not a big selling point for many buyers.

Unless you already have big problems with the packing, you should be
able to take the nut off & check out the threads carefully without much
(if any) increase in leakage. You may even be able to pull the first
packing ring or two before entering "hurry up" mode. Anyway, it would be
a good idea to have somebody else standing by on board & an emergency
bilge pump handy, just in case.

In any event, once you get the packing nut off & check the threads,
(assuming you don't have huge problems already), that is the time to
double insure that you have the right size packing, puller(s), wrenches,
etc etc, to get the whole thing re-assembled with dispatch. Pre-cut the
new packing, angling the cuts like a pro and checking the fit.

Now pull out the old packing rings, and push in the new ones. The first
new one may be difficult, but if it's the right size it will
considerably slow down the inflow when shoved into the gland. Don't
worry about seating it perfectly, just get it in & alignd & pushed in
enough to start the next ring. By the time you've got 2 new rings in
(remember to offset the cuts like a pro), the leakage should be just a
trickle. Now you're home free... seat the new rings as far down as you
can, continue to add packing rings until no more can fit in. Write down
in the maintenance log how many you put in.

When putting in new packing, I like to leave the nut a little bit loose
until I can run the engine. 1 drip every 3 seconds when running should
be about the most leakage; when the engine is stopped there should be
only very slow leakage or none (as the original poster stated).

BTW you should also know in advance if your packing gland has a lantern
ring. This complicates matters somewhat, they can get jammed and cause a
big delay, which might necessitate a haul-out after all.

Easy as pie!

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

I only tightened mine when she was in the water, I did not check the
packing. I did consider doing this though by diving with a mask and
snorkel and putting plumbers putty round the shaft before taking out
the packing.
My maintenance is not driven by the desire to "do things right" or to
look good (everything I do looks like crap) but by sheer terror of what
will happen if I dont.
Somehow, S2 seemed to be able to put in so much room around the engine
on a 28' boat that I could crawl into the engine compartment and
completely circumnavigate the engine befor crawling out again. Yet,
the cabin seems no smaller than other 28' boats with hardly any engine
access.

In article . com,
wrote:

Somehow, S2 seemed to be able to put in so much room around the
engine on a 28' boat that I could crawl into the engine compartment
and completely circumnavigate the engine befor crawling out again.
Yet, the cabin seems no smaller than other 28' boats with hardly any
engine access.

Our boat has similar access space. It's a matter of the designer not
trying to pack 32' of often unusable accomodations into a 28' boat. Our
Xan has nothing but stowage and engine under the cockpit, which "loses"
us a possible berth, but we've got more than enough of them already.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/