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Depth sounder liquid
Anyone Know what liquid goes in the receptacle of a thro' hull transducer, I
have been told Glycerine but not sure. Thank's. Peter |
I always thought it was mineral oil.
"PeterKeating" wrote in message ... Anyone Know what liquid goes in the receptacle of a thro' hull transducer, I have been told Glycerine but not sure. Thank's. Peter |
Mineral oil is what I used. Has worked corectly several years.
krj Doug Dotson wrote: I always thought it was mineral oil. "PeterKeating" wrote in message ... Anyone Know what liquid goes in the receptacle of a thro' hull transducer, I have been told Glycerine but not sure. Thank's. Peter |
Mineral oil. Works great.
-- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "PeterKeating" wrote in message ... Anyone Know what liquid goes in the receptacle of a thro' hull transducer, I have been told Glycerine but not sure. Thank's. Peter |
Thank's guys I suppose that means engine oil, or is it a thinner oil that
you use. Peter "PeterKeating" wrote in message ... Anyone Know what liquid goes in the receptacle of a thro' hull transducer, I have been told Glycerine but not sure. Thank's. Peter |
Mineral oil is usually taken as a laxative. It is a clear,
highly-refined oil, aka sewing machine oil. Chuck PeterKeating wrote: Thank's guys I suppose that means engine oil, or is it a thinner oil that you use. Peter "PeterKeating" wrote in message ... Anyone Know what liquid goes in the receptacle of a thro' hull transducer, I have been told Glycerine but not sure. Thank's. Peter |
Mine has water in it (and that's what was specified).
On Mon, 02 May 2005 20:58:35 GMT, "PeterKeating" wrote: Anyone Know what liquid goes in the receptacle of a thro' hull transducer, I have been told Glycerine but not sure. Thank's. Peter |
Which one do you have? I had a low-end fishfinder. Just sold the boat, and I
can't remember the brand. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com wrote in message ... Mine has water in it (and that's what was specified). On Mon, 02 May 2005 20:58:35 GMT, "PeterKeating" wrote: Anyone Know what liquid goes in the receptacle of a thro' hull transducer, I have been told Glycerine but not sure. Thank's. Peter |
I have a very old DataMarine unit. The transducer is a hemi-sphere the size of a bowling
ball (1/2 full of water), glued to the hull (of a Ranger 33 sailboat). The display had Numitron display tubes, but they failed and I had to replace them with LEDs. It works fine. On Mon, 2 May 2005 17:06:45 -0700, "JG" wrote: Which one do you have? I had a low-end fishfinder. Just sold the boat, and I can't remember the brand. |
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Interesting. I used a piece of PVC pipe slightly larger than the sensor. I
cut the PVC at a slight angle, so it would sit flush against the side of the bilge, then epoxied it in place so it would hold fluid. I put the sensor on another piece of PVC with a small groove on it and the pipe so it would stay in the right orientation, put in the oil, then put the sensor/piece combo in, and put a cap on (unglued). The cap keeps the mineral oil from sloshing out. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com wrote in message ... I have a very old DataMarine unit. The transducer is a hemi-sphere the size of a bowling ball (1/2 full of water), glued to the hull (of a Ranger 33 sailboat). The display had Numitron display tubes, but they failed and I had to replace them with LEDs. It works fine. On Mon, 2 May 2005 17:06:45 -0700, "JG" wrote: Which one do you have? I had a low-end fishfinder. Just sold the boat, and I can't remember the brand. |
In article ,
"JG" wrote: Interesting. I used a piece of PVC pipe slightly larger than the sensor. I cut the PVC at a slight angle, so it would sit flush against the side of the bilge, then epoxied it in place so it would hold fluid. I put the sensor on another piece of PVC with a small groove on it and the pipe so it would stay in the right orientation, put in the oil, then put the sensor/piece combo in, and put a cap on (unglued). The cap keeps the mineral oil from sloshing out. A number of people on the Tanzer list simply caulked glued the transducer to the hull. Doesn't have to be straight up and down, just a good, solid connection. -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
I've heard of that, but if there's a gap or significant air bubble, then it
mis-reads. At least that's what I read. I don't think mine was absolutely straight up and down either, but I tried to get close. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Jere Lull" wrote in message ... In article , "JG" wrote: Interesting. I used a piece of PVC pipe slightly larger than the sensor. I cut the PVC at a slight angle, so it would sit flush against the side of the bilge, then epoxied it in place so it would hold fluid. I put the sensor on another piece of PVC with a small groove on it and the pipe so it would stay in the right orientation, put in the oil, then put the sensor/piece combo in, and put a cap on (unglued). The cap keeps the mineral oil from sloshing out. A number of people on the Tanzer list simply caulked glued the transducer to the hull. Doesn't have to be straight up and down, just a good, solid connection. -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Jere Lull wrote:
In article , "JG" wrote: Interesting. I used a piece of PVC pipe slightly larger than the sensor. I cut the PVC at a slight angle, so it would sit flush against the side of the bilge, then epoxied it in place so it would hold fluid. I put the sensor on another piece of PVC with a small groove on it and the pipe so it would stay in the right orientation, put in the oil, then put the sensor/piece combo in, and put a cap on (unglued). The cap keeps the mineral oil from sloshing out. A number of people on the Tanzer list simply caulked glued the transducer to the hull. Doesn't have to be straight up and down, just a good, solid connection. I did that with my last boat and would not hesitate to do it again. Since the newer fishfinders are pretty sensitive, the minor loss of power doesn't affect them much. In fact, the old Apelco 260 glued inside the hull was a bit more reliable than the newer 262 mounted though the hull - the new one needs the sensitivity backed off at times or it focuses on powerboat wakes more than the bottom. Still, a FF is much better than a simple digital sounder. Even if you plan to mount one of those fluid chambers, or drill a hole, its worth trying it simply glued on to make sure you have a good spot. Sometimes a sounder will unexpectedly see the keel or rudder, etc. Some people get confused about the tilted transducer, thinking it will give false reading due to the off-axis geometry. However, the sounder will respond to the first returned echo, which will be the shortest path and the true depth - not counting weird effects or fish, of course. The problem with being tilted is that the strength is reduced off-axis. This is not a problem at 5 degrees, but a narrow hull may only have a mounting spot at a steep angle. Since such a hull probably heels more, its conceivable that the sensor could be almost horizontal on one tack - not a good thing. One should consider the beam width of a candidate unit - they are different, and some have multiple frequencies which have different beam widths. |
I was just reading all the warnings I got and taking them literally. I'm
sure it wouldn't have made much difference. My biggest concern was not putting it directly over the cast iron keel. :-) -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Red Cloud©" wrote in message ... On Wed, 4 May 2005 00:36:51 -0700, "JG" wrote: I've heard of that, but if there's a gap or significant air bubble, then it mis-reads. At least that's what I read. I don't think mine was absolutely straight up and down either, but I tried to get close. The instructions for my $80 fishfinder, which I use as a backup for my "real" depth sounder, says emphatically not to use a glob of silicone glue to mount the transducer inside the hull. They suggest epoxy. It may be a problem if you are using it to spot individual fish, but I can tell you from my experience, and that of quite a few others, it still works just fine as a depth sounder if you make a glob of clear silicone and press the transducer into it. It's really not that hard to avoid air bubbles. I think the loss in sensitivity is slight at best. rusty redcloud |
Thanks for the great info... next time. I didn't actually set it "in stone"
until I tried it. I tried to get it as center line as possible, but tried to avoid right over the keel. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Jeff" wrote in message ... Jere Lull wrote: In article , "JG" wrote: Interesting. I used a piece of PVC pipe slightly larger than the sensor. I cut the PVC at a slight angle, so it would sit flush against the side of the bilge, then epoxied it in place so it would hold fluid. I put the sensor on another piece of PVC with a small groove on it and the pipe so it would stay in the right orientation, put in the oil, then put the sensor/piece combo in, and put a cap on (unglued). The cap keeps the mineral oil from sloshing out. A number of people on the Tanzer list simply caulked glued the transducer to the hull. Doesn't have to be straight up and down, just a good, solid connection. I did that with my last boat and would not hesitate to do it again. Since the newer fishfinders are pretty sensitive, the minor loss of power doesn't affect them much. In fact, the old Apelco 260 glued inside the hull was a bit more reliable than the newer 262 mounted though the hull - the new one needs the sensitivity backed off at times or it focuses on powerboat wakes more than the bottom. Still, a FF is much better than a simple digital sounder. Even if you plan to mount one of those fluid chambers, or drill a hole, its worth trying it simply glued on to make sure you have a good spot. Sometimes a sounder will unexpectedly see the keel or rudder, etc. Some people get confused about the tilted transducer, thinking it will give false reading due to the off-axis geometry. However, the sounder will respond to the first returned echo, which will be the shortest path and the true depth - not counting weird effects or fish, of course. The problem with being tilted is that the strength is reduced off-axis. This is not a problem at 5 degrees, but a narrow hull may only have a mounting spot at a steep angle. Since such a hull probably heels more, its conceivable that the sensor could be almost horizontal on one tack - not a good thing. One should consider the beam width of a candidate unit - they are different, and some have multiple frequencies which have different beam widths. |
Doug,
That was sort of my point, it couldn't be water. Paul Doug Dotson wrote: It's a sealed setup so no evaporation, but freezing is an issue. That's why water is not used. |
Red Cloud© wrote in
: The instructions for my $80 fishfinder, which I use as a backup for my "real" depth sounder, says emphatically not to use a glob of silicone glue to mount the transducer inside the hull. Any soft glue, like your bathtub caulk, will ABSORB the ping from the transducer. So, we use epoxy, which is very hard and very conductive to the ping into the hull for maximum transmission of the sound. |
"JG" wrote in
: Thanks for the great info... next time. I didn't actually set it "in stone" until I tried it. I tried to get it as center line as possible, but tried to avoid right over the keel. To find the best spot for the transducer to be epoxied into any hull, simply put WATER inside the hull deep enough to submerge the transducer. This will also test to see if you have a crappy cored hull that won't couple the pings. Fresh water is fine, just deep enough to submerge the pinger surface of the transducer. Now you can move the transducer around in the water to find the spot that gives you the best pictures of the bottom around that keel. Once you find the spot, pump it dry and dry it good then epoxy it in place.... |
On Sat, 07 May 2005 19:42:06 -0400, Larry W4CSC
wrote: Red Cloud© wrote in : The instructions for my $80 fishfinder, which I use as a backup for my "real" depth sounder, says emphatically not to use a glob of silicone glue to mount the transducer inside the hull. Any soft glue, like your bathtub caulk, will ABSORB the ping from the transducer. So, we use epoxy, which is very hard and very conductive to the ping into the hull for maximum transmission of the sound. I've successfully used Lifecaulk, or similar soft caulking compound, although some manufacturers recommend epoxy. Epoxy seems to be too permanent for my liking. Using a soft sealant may reduce the usable range somewhat, but I am more interested in how shallow it is, not how deep... A suggestion _before_ you glue down the transducer: put the transducer in a plastic bag with some water, and hold it against the hull in various locations to find the location that gives the best performance. -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
That's an interesting way to do it. That would have worked on my boat, but I
just guessed and was right on as best as I could tell. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... "JG" wrote in : Thanks for the great info... next time. I didn't actually set it "in stone" until I tried it. I tried to get it as center line as possible, but tried to avoid right over the keel. To find the best spot for the transducer to be epoxied into any hull, simply put WATER inside the hull deep enough to submerge the transducer. This will also test to see if you have a crappy cored hull that won't couple the pings. Fresh water is fine, just deep enough to submerge the pinger surface of the transducer. Now you can move the transducer around in the water to find the spot that gives you the best pictures of the bottom around that keel. Once you find the spot, pump it dry and dry it good then epoxy it in place.... |
JG wrote:
That's an interesting way to do it. That would have worked on my boat, but I just guessed and was right on as best as I could tell. I used a soft putty of some sort for testing locations. Putty will not transmit is good as epoxy, so if it works for that it should be fine. I wish I could remember exactly what it was, but at the time, we joked so much about using peanut butter that that's all I can remember now. |
How about just using peanut butter? g
-- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Jeff" wrote in message ... JG wrote: That's an interesting way to do it. That would have worked on my boat, but I just guessed and was right on as best as I could tell. I used a soft putty of some sort for testing locations. Putty will not transmit is good as epoxy, so if it works for that it should be fine. I wish I could remember exactly what it was, but at the time, we joked so much about using peanut butter that that's all I can remember now. |
"JG" wrote in
: How about just using peanut butter? g If you didn't have roaches in the bilge before the test, I'm sure you'll have them in the bilge a week AFTER! |
"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... "JG" wrote in : How about just using peanut butter? g Rats love peanut butter to death. |
Is this a good thing or a bad thing?
-- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Garuda" wrote in message ... "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... "JG" wrote in : How about just using peanut butter? g Rats love peanut butter to death. |
JG wrote:
How about just using peanut butter? g Ah! Now I remember! It was a baggy with a bit of mineral oil in it. Put the transducer in the bag, "sealing" the top just by grabbing the sensor, and just placing it wherever you want to test. The boat stays clean, the sensor can be wiped off easily, so its pretty painless. |
Glad I could help... g
-- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Jeff" wrote in message ... JG wrote: How about just using peanut butter? g Ah! Now I remember! It was a baggy with a bit of mineral oil in it. Put the transducer in the bag, "sealing" the top just by grabbing the sensor, and just placing it wherever you want to test. The boat stays clean, the sensor can be wiped off easily, so its pretty painless. |
In article , Jeff
wrote: JG wrote: That's an interesting way to do it. That would have worked on my boat, but I just guessed and was right on as best as I could tell. I used a soft putty of some sort for testing locations. Putty will not transmit is good as epoxy, so if it works for that it should be fine. I wish I could remember exactly what it was, but at the time, we joked so much about using peanut butter that that's all I can remember now. Just heard that one of our guys is using toilet sealing wax. Probably not as effective as epoxy or similar, but few of us care about reading accurately to 900'... -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
"Jere Lull" wrote in message
... In article , Jeff wrote: JG wrote: That's an interesting way to do it. That would have worked on my boat, but I just guessed and was right on as best as I could tell. I used a soft putty of some sort for testing locations. Putty will not transmit is good as epoxy, so if it works for that it should be fine. I wish I could remember exactly what it was, but at the time, we joked so much about using peanut butter that that's all I can remember now. Just heard that one of our guys is using toilet sealing wax. Probably not as effective as epoxy or similar, but few of us care about reading accurately to 900'... -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ Hopefully, he's using new wax. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
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