Must depend upon the rig. I've been running a 12V flatscreen Sharp
for 3 years with no problem.

"Mark" wrote in message
ups.com...
Just read the voltage coming out of the power supply dongle on the
LCD TV you're
considering and look for anything from 12-15VDC output from it.
The DC
regulators are inside the TVs so it doesn't matter if it's off a
few volts.

Bad advice concerning the consumer grade LCD TVs I know of.

The 120 volt AC to 12 volt wall wart *is* the voltage regulator, there
is no DC regulator inside the TV. I called technical support
concerning my Samsung SyncMaster 150mp and they said the voltage must
be a clean 12.3 volts plus or minus 5%. Clean means no high voltage
spikes or significant AC ripple. They said lots of folks are running
this particular monitor in emergency vehiclesetc., but only by using a
10-16v--12v regulated power supply (expensive), *not* connecting
directly to the vehicle's DC bus.

Typical boat voltages range from 10v or so when running heavy loads
like anchor windlasses, to 14.4v or so when charging. High voltages
will burn out the cold cathode fluorescent backlight circuitry, every
time. You either have an unusual LCD TV, never use the TV during the
top end of a 3-step charging cycle, or are just plain lucky.

My Espar is at least 10 years old is still runs great.

"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message
...
Peter Bennett wrote in
news.com:

I think the best solution for his heating problem is a small Espar or
Webasto diesel hot air furnace. He did mention that he has a Force 10
propane heater. The one I had one on a previous boat was a
bulkhead-mounted "fireplace" with no provision to circulate the air.
When I stood up in the boat, my head was cooking, but my feet were
freezing.... That sort of heater needs a fan mounted above it to
circulate the heated air.


This is the best idea, but there's no room on the small cruisers for it.
Lionheart had a fuel oil forced air heater installed in the port lazarette
when it was built. By the time Geoffrey got it, the heater was all rotten
inside and he removed it to make room for the aft cabin heat pump, which
is
more important in Charleston. It looked like the salt air had simply
consumed the diesel heater's steel combustion chamber. It was totally
rusted out.

My experience is that the waste water from a raw water15HP Yanmar
doesn;t have enough residual heat to make running a heater practical.
I know you can't run a water heater off of one.

Doug

"Bruce in Alaska" wrote in message
...
In article .com,
Peter Bennett wrote:

That's a good suggestion in some situations - but the 2GM15 is a two
cylinder 15 HP engine commonly used on sailboats around 30 ft, and is
probably raw-water cooled, so your suggestion won't work.

Why would the fact that you have Raw water cooling be a deterent?
All that is required is some High Temp Hose, and a Stainless
Liquid/Air Heat Exchanger. Install the heat exchanger between
the output of the engine block and the input to the Raw Water
Exhaust Elbow Input. If you want heat just turn of the fan
blowing thru the heat exchanger. If you don't want heat, just let the
Raw water flow overboard after going thru the heat echanger.
This isn't Rocket Scienc. Cogeneration of this type has been used
on many a small vessel for many, many years, Fresh water or Raw water
cooled.
Look, you already PAID for those BTU's when you purchased your
Dead Dinasour Guts. Better to use them, then heat up the ocean
with them. Remeber 33% of your BTU's go out the output shaft,
33% go out the cooling system, and 33% go up the stack, in diesel
engines.

Bruce in alaska who would like to sell you some more dinasour guts...
--
add a 2 before @

IIRC, the thermostat on the raw water Yanmars is set rather low, about
140 degrees. This is too low for quickly heating hot water, and could
be marginal for heating. In fact, when I run my fresh water 2GM20F
for charging, it doesn't go above about 160 degrees, and takes a long
time to heat my 11 gallon tank. When pushing the boat hard it brings
the water up to temp in about 20 minutes.


Doug Dotson wrote:
My experience is that the waste water from a raw water15HP Yanmar
doesn;t have enough residual heat to make running a heater practical.
I know you can't run a water heater off of one.

Doug

"Bruce in Alaska" wrote in message
...

In article .com,
Peter Bennett wrote:


That's a good suggestion in some situations - but the 2GM15 is a two
cylinder 15 HP engine commonly used on sailboats around 30 ft, and is
probably raw-water cooled, so your suggestion won't work.

Why would the fact that you have Raw water cooling be a deterent?
All that is required is some High Temp Hose, and a Stainless
Liquid/Air Heat Exchanger. Install the heat exchanger between
the output of the engine block and the input to the Raw Water
Exhaust Elbow Input. If you want heat just turn of the fan
blowing thru the heat exchanger. If you don't want heat, just let the
Raw water flow overboard after going thru the heat echanger.
This isn't Rocket Scienc. Cogeneration of this type has been used
on many a small vessel for many, many years, Fresh water or Raw water
cooled.
Look, you already PAID for those BTU's when you purchased your
Dead Dinasour Guts. Better to use them, then heat up the ocean
with them. Remeber 33% of your BTU's go out the output shaft,
33% go out the cooling system, and 33% go up the stack, in diesel
engines.

Bruce in alaska who would like to sell you some more dinasour guts...
--
add a 2 before @

Right, but raw water vs fresh water system is a different deal. Raw water:
no good for hot water or heat. Fresh water: usually OK.

Doug

"Jeff" wrote in message
...
IIRC, the thermostat on the raw water Yanmars is set rather low, about 140
degrees. This is too low for quickly heating hot water, and could be
marginal for heating. In fact, when I run my fresh water 2GM20F for
charging, it doesn't go above about 160 degrees, and takes a long time to
heat my 11 gallon tank. When pushing the boat hard it brings the water up
to temp in about 20 minutes.


Doug Dotson wrote:
My experience is that the waste water from a raw water15HP Yanmar
doesn;t have enough residual heat to make running a heater practical.
I know you can't run a water heater off of one.

Doug

"Bruce in Alaska" wrote in message
...

In article .com,
Peter Bennett wrote:


That's a good suggestion in some situations - but the 2GM15 is a two
cylinder 15 HP engine commonly used on sailboats around 30 ft, and is
probably raw-water cooled, so your suggestion won't work.

Why would the fact that you have Raw water cooling be a deterent?
All that is required is some High Temp Hose, and a Stainless
Liquid/Air Heat Exchanger. Install the heat exchanger between
the output of the engine block and the input to the Raw Water
Exhaust Elbow Input. If you want heat just turn of the fan
blowing thru the heat exchanger. If you don't want heat, just let the
Raw water flow overboard after going thru the heat echanger.
This isn't Rocket Scienc. Cogeneration of this type has been used
on many a small vessel for many, many years, Fresh water or Raw water
cooled.
Look, you already PAID for those BTU's when you purchased your
Dead Dinasour Guts. Better to use them, then heat up the ocean
with them. Remeber 33% of your BTU's go out the output shaft,
33% go out the cooling system, and 33% go up the stack, in diesel
engines.

Bruce in alaska who would like to sell you some more dinasour guts...
--
add a 2 before @

In article ,
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote:

My experience is that the waste water from a raw water15HP Yanmar
doesn;t have enough residual heat to make running a heater practical.
I know you can't run a water heater off of one.

Doug

Your dumping those "Paid for" BTU's overboard, and you would be very
suprised at how much heat can be moved out of that Raw water cooling
system that runs at 140F....


Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @

In article ,
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote:

Right, but raw water vs fresh water system is a different deal. Raw water:
no good for hot water or heat. Fresh water: usually OK.

Doug

Geezzz Louise Doug,

Think about this a bit. What is the difference between Raw Water Cooling,
and Fresh Water Cooling? You got the same amount of BTU's coming out of
the engine, right? Why would the addition of a Water/Water heat
exchanger make any difference in how you distribute those BTU's?
BTU's are BTU's. The heat has to go somewhere and if you pump it
overboard your wasting the energy, that could be used to heat the cabin
or water or anything else that requires input BTU's.


Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @

"Bruce in Alaska" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote:

My experience is that the waste water from a raw water15HP Yanmar
doesn;t have enough residual heat to make running a heater practical.
I know you can't run a water heater off of one.

Doug

Your dumping those "Paid for" BTU's overboard, and you would be very
suprised at how much heat can be moved out of that Raw water cooling
system that runs at 140F....


Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @

Never worked on my old boat. The 3HM30 raw water engine would never
heat the water hot enough to be useful. After replacing it with a 3GM30F I
had all the hot water I could use. Yanmar apparently told the previous owner
(my father) that using a water heater with the 3HM30 would not work and
that information was correct

Doug