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Battery heresy
Calder points out how battery life is increased by minimizing
discharge level. No matter how many batteries you have in the boat, you'll get maximum life by putting them in one bank. Keeping a starting battery isolated and in reserve is obviously a necessary compromise for most craft. However, with a 20 hp diesel, modest starting loads, and the ability to hand start, I'm thinking that the simplicity of a one bank system might make sense for a daysailing, short cruise boat, that is docked with shore power. If the batteries did get run down away from home, I'd be willing to hand start in penance. The key question is whether a two cylinder diesel like a 20 hp Yanmar 2QM can really be hand started or if it is an "only when your life absolutely depends on it" kind of operation. I don't have much experience with engines under 200 HP so I'd appreciate the benefit of actual experience. -- Roger Long |
Roger Long wrote:
Calder points out how battery life is increased by minimizing discharge level. No matter how many batteries you have in the boat, you'll get maximum life by putting them in one bank. Keeping a starting battery isolated and in reserve is obviously a necessary compromise for most craft. However, with a 20 hp diesel, modest starting loads, and the ability to hand start, I'm thinking that the simplicity of a one bank system might make sense for a daysailing, short cruise boat, that is docked with shore power. If the batteries did get run down away from home, I'd be willing to hand start in penance. The key question is whether a two cylinder diesel like a 20 hp Yanmar 2QM can really be hand started or if it is an "only when your life absolutely depends on it" kind of operation. I don't have much experience with engines under 200 HP so I'd appreciate the benefit of actual experience. Are you sure your engine is set up for hand starting? The heat exchanger version of the 2GM certainly isn't, because the water pump blocks the spot the crank would go into. Even if this were not the case, I don't think either of my engines are installed such that a crank could be swung. I'll be curious to hear the replies - although some will say it can be done, I've only heard a few people say they have actually done it. |
Are you sure your engine is set up for hand starting?
Yes, I saw the crank. It's the raw water cooled version. I have the service manual and it shows a hand crank setup for the fresh water version as well. I hear from another source that it's a rather athletic undertaking and a second person to close the compression release is a necessity. Also heard from another owner of the same boat who has run it exactly the way I describe for 17 years without a problem. I think I'll just leave the battery switch on boat all the time. -- Roger Long |
Are you sure your engine is set up for hand starting?
Roger Long wrote: Yes, I saw the crank. It's the raw water cooled version. I have the service manual and it shows a hand crank setup for the fresh water version as well. What the manual shows may not match what's on the boat. I've had a boat with a hand-startable diesel (a one-cylinder Volvo) that had various bits of the cabin in the way of the hand crank. I hear from another source that it's a rather athletic undertaking and a second person to close the compression release is a necessity. The only times I've ever successfully hand-started a diesel, it was necessary to manipulate the compression release. Also heard from another owner of the same boat who has run it exactly the way I describe for 17 years without a problem. I think I'll just leave the battery switch on boat all the time. You might want to visit him on his boat and get a demo. Another option http://www.springstarter.com/ Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Another option
http://www.springstarter.com/ Hey, that is very, very cool. BTW it's a used boat. I inspected it personally and tried the crank in position. One of the first things I'm going to do is try and start it. I'll let you know how it goes. -- Roger Long |
Roger Long wrote:
Another option http://www.springstarter.com/ Hey, that is very, very cool. BTW it's a used boat. I inspected it personally and tried the crank in position. One of the first things I'm going to do is try and start it. I'll let you know how it goes. If you inboard is hand crank equipped like mine was on a previous boat, you REALLY don't need to hand crank it when the battery runs down. I killed my battery at anchor a few times (thank you Espar!). No problem. As long as you have two people aboard: 1 person lifts the decompression lever, which makes the engine turn over fairly easily. The second person pushes the start switch and once the engine is moving and the flywheel is doing it's job, just drop the decompression lever and she'll start like a charm. Hand cranking was never required and I killed the battery sufficiently that the lights were dim. I left the Espar running all night in cold fall weather. |
"Roger Long" wrote in message .. . Are you sure your engine is set up for hand starting? Yes, I saw the crank. It's the raw water cooled version. I have the service manual and it shows a hand crank setup for the fresh water version as well. I hear from another source that it's a rather athletic undertaking and a second person to close the compression release is a necessity. Once the compression levers are opened, an 8 year old can crank it. You don't need another person to handle the levers since they lock in the open position. Just get it spinning and reach up and close one lever. Then throw the other lever(s). I started my 3HM30 and 3GM30 this way several times. You can also start them using a string of a few D-cells. Also heard from another owner of the same boat who has run it exactly the way I describe for 17 years without a problem. I think I'll just leave the battery switch on boat all the time. -- Roger Long |
"Marley" wrote in message .. . Roger Long wrote: Another option http://www.springstarter.com/ Hey, that is very, very cool. BTW it's a used boat. I inspected it personally and tried the crank in position. One of the first things I'm going to do is try and start it. I'll let you know how it goes. If you inboard is hand crank equipped like mine was on a previous boat, you REALLY don't need to hand crank it when the battery runs down. I killed my battery at anchor a few times (thank you Espar!). You should thank yourself. The ESPAR had your permission to run :) No problem. As long as you have two people aboard: Depends upon the engine. Both of my previous Yanmars could be crank started by one person. 1 person lifts the decompression lever, which makes the engine turn over fairly easily. The second person pushes the start switch and once the engine is moving and the flywheel is doing it's job, just drop the decompression lever and she'll start like a charm. What does the start switch have to do with it? Hand cranking was never required and I killed the battery sufficiently that the lights were dim. I left the Espar running all night in cold fall weather. With the decompression levers engaged, it doesn;t take much to get the engine spinning enough to start. |
Is there some trick to starting? I just heard from someone on the
owner's forum for my boat, the only one responding who had tried hand starting, and he said he spent an entire summer bashing knuckles and getting thrown across the cabin without ever getting it going. He was using the compression releases, trying one cylinder at time, etc. What could he have been doing wrong? -- Roger Long |
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 17:14:56 -0500, Marley wrote:
If you inboard is hand crank equipped like mine was on a previous boat, you REALLY don't need to hand crank it when the battery runs down. I killed my battery at anchor a few times (thank you Espar!). No problem. As long as you have two people aboard: 1 person lifts the decompression lever, which makes the engine turn over fairly easily. The second person pushes the start switch and once the engine is moving and the flywheel is doing it's job, just drop the decompression lever and she'll start like a charm. Since I normally single-hand, on a previous boat I installed a starter button in the engine compartment specifically for this reason - if the battery was too low to crank against the engine compression, I could open the engine room, lift the decompression lever, then press the handy start button - with luck, the weak battery would then be able to crank the engine, and once it was turning fast, I would drop the decompression lever, and the engine would (hopefully) start. -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 19:08:41 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote: Calder points out how battery life is increased by minimizing discharge level. No matter how many batteries you have in the boat, you'll get maximum life by putting them in one bank. Keeping a starting battery isolated and in reserve is obviously a necessary compromise for most craft. However, with a 20 hp diesel, modest starting loads, and the ability to hand start, I'm thinking that the simplicity of a one bank system might make sense for a daysailing, short cruise boat, that is docked with shore power. If the batteries did get run down away from home, I'd be willing to hand start in penance. The key question is whether a two cylinder diesel like a 20 hp Yanmar 2QM can really be hand started or if it is an "only when your life absolutely depends on it" kind of operation. I don't have much experience with engines under 200 HP so I'd appreciate the benefit of actual experience. I was completely unable to hand crank a 3-cyl Yanmar to start. I weigh 190 and am not weak. We repowered with a later (3GMH) about 12 years ago and that one didn't even have a place to put a crank. I suggest you try it on your own engine. I think it would work with a big enough flywheel, but as it is closing one compression release stops it instantly in my experience. OTOH, taking off the compression it will spin with a pretty dead battery and start when you close it. It is a matter of how fast you can get it to spin before you close the valve. I know a one-cylinder Volvo can be hand started, by a reliable witness. Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a The sound of a Great Blue Heron's wingbeats going by your head |
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 18:40:18 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote: "Marley" wrote in message . .. Roger Long wrote: Another option http://www.springstarter.com/ Hey, that is very, very cool. BTW it's a used boat. I inspected it personally and tried the crank in position. One of the first things I'm going to do is try and start it. I'll let you know how it goes. If you inboard is hand crank equipped like mine was on a previous boat, you REALLY don't need to hand crank it when the battery runs down. I killed my battery at anchor a few times (thank you Espar!). You should thank yourself. The ESPAR had your permission to run :) No problem. As long as you have two people aboard: Depends upon the engine. Both of my previous Yanmars could be crank started by one person. 1 person lifts the decompression lever, which makes the engine turn over fairly easily. The second person pushes the start switch and once the engine is moving and the flywheel is doing it's job, just drop the decompression lever and she'll start like a charm. What does the start switch have to do with it? Hand cranking was never required and I killed the battery sufficiently that the lights were dim. I left the Espar running all night in cold fall weather. With the decompression levers engaged, it doesn;t take much to get the engine spinning enough to start. That is really interesting. I wonder why it was so hard on the one I had. Maybe something to do with why it blew up. It is academic now. The new on has no place for a crank. I never had any trouble cranking an Atomic 4, but that is very different from a diesel. Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a The sound of a Great Blue Heron's wingbeats going by your head |
In article ,
"Roger Long" wrote: Calder points out how battery life is increased by minimizing discharge level. No matter how many batteries you have in the boat, you'll get maximum life by putting them in one bank. Keeping a starting battery isolated and in reserve is obviously a necessary compromise for most craft. However, with a 20 hp diesel, modest starting loads, and the ability to hand start, I'm thinking that the simplicity of a one bank system might make sense for a daysailing, short cruise boat, that is docked with shore power. If the batteries did get run down away from home, I'd be willing to hand start in penance. The key question is whether a two cylinder diesel like a 20 hp Yanmar 2QM can really be hand started or if it is an "only when your life absolutely depends on it" kind of operation. I don't have much experience with engines under 200 HP so I'd appreciate the benefit of actual experience. We have a fairly recent 2GM20F. No provision for hand-starting. But a single bank is feasible, at least on the Chesapeake during the season, with the addition of a small solar cell. Ours is 12w. On last year's cruise, the battery was dead flat one morning. Switched everything off but the solar cell and we could start by mid-morning. Since it tops things off between weekends, we only need to use the engine for motive power. Have never had healthier batteries; the one I expected to replace was rejuvenated. Eventually, we will have a dedicated engine battery with absolutely the shortest possible leads. House bank will normally be isolated by a simple on/off switch, the cell keeping it healthy. Won't be able to fry the alternator by tossing a switch. -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Roger Long wrote:
Calder points out how battery life is increased by minimizing discharge level. No matter how many batteries you have in the boat, you'll get maximum life by putting them in one bank. Keeping a starting battery isolated and in reserve is obviously a necessary compromise for most craft. However, with a 20 hp diesel, modest starting loads, and the ability to hand start, I'm thinking that the simplicity of a one bank system might make sense for a daysailing, short cruise boat, that is docked with shore power. If the batteries did get run down away from home, I'd be willing to hand start in penance. The key question is whether a two cylinder diesel like a 20 hp Yanmar 2QM can really be hand started or if it is an "only when your life absolutely depends on it" kind of operation. I don't have much experience with engines under 200 HP so I'd appreciate the benefit of actual experience. Only if your life depends on it is about right. I've seen somebody hand start a 1 cylinder YSM Yanmar and it wasn't pretty. Those ones have a huge flywheel. How about using one of those little portable "booster batteries" that basically provide a jump start to a mostly discharged battery? They are only about 15 lbs and pretty compact. They might not start a 2QM without another house battery providing some current but I bet they would start it with a depleted house bank. Evan Gatehouse |
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 23:29:44 -0500, Rodney Myrvaagnes
wrote: I know a one-cylinder Volvo can be hand started, by a reliable witness. ========================= I have hand started both 1 and 2 cylinder Volvo diesels. It is not difficult. They have large flywheels which tends to make it easier than some other engines. |
Doug Dotson wrote:
"Marley" wrote in message .. . Roger Long wrote: Another option http://www.springstarter.com/ Hey, that is very, very cool. BTW it's a used boat. I inspected it personally and tried the crank in position. One of the first things I'm going to do is try and start it. I'll let you know how it goes. If you inboard is hand crank equipped like mine was on a previous boat, you REALLY don't need to hand crank it when the battery runs down. I killed my battery at anchor a few times (thank you Espar!). You should thank yourself. The ESPAR had your permission to run :) No problem. As long as you have two people aboard: Depends upon the engine. Both of my previous Yanmars could be crank started by one person. 1 person lifts the decompression lever, which makes the engine turn over fairly easily. The second person pushes the start switch and once the engine is moving and the flywheel is doing it's job, just drop the decompression lever and she'll start like a charm. What does the start switch have to do with it? Hand cranking was never required and I killed the battery sufficiently that the lights were dim. I left the Espar running all night in cold fall weather. With the decompression levers engaged, it doesn;t take much to get the engine spinning enough to start. Doug You REALLY need to work on your reading comprehension skills. Seriously! M |
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The consensus from the owner's forum for my boat on emergency starting
a 2 cylinder Yanmar seems to be this: For emergency starting with dead batteries, carry one of the following on board. A Westmarine emergency battery pack or an NFL linebacker properly trained and housebroken. -- Roger Long |
"Jere Lull" wrote in message
... But a single bank is feasible, at least on the Chesapeake during the season, with the addition of a small solar cell. Ours is 12w. On last year's cruise, the battery was dead flat one morning. Switched everything off but the solar cell and we could start by mid-morning. Since it tops things off between weekends, we only need to use the engine for motive power. Have never had healthier batteries; the one I expected to replace was rejuvenated. It is this premise on which I'm making the move to solar and wind as my (nearly - the engine has a small-by-large-frame-standards alternator, and I'll have a briefcase Honda genset in the Laz for shore duty) only charging sources. Barring some unforeseen catastrophe, our batteries should last a *very* long time, as they'll be topped up continuously, gently, and the everyday power usages will mostly be covered by current (pardon the expression) input. FWIW, 6 L16HC are on the list... We, too, will have an extremely short run from the starter to batteries. Browse around http://www.dv-fansler.com/FTP%20File...r%20System.pdf this and the site from which it came for some pretty good electrical discussion. L8R Skip, about to go back and start that part of the refit -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
Roger Long wrote:
The consensus from the owner's forum for my boat on emergency starting a 2 cylinder Yanmar seems to be this: For emergency starting with dead batteries, carry one of the following on board. A Westmarine emergency battery pack or an NFL linebacker properly trained and housebroken. So why not just carry a two batteries instead of the emergency pack? You can get AGM starters from an auto shop at about $100. With the low self discharge you can jut keep one in reserve for the weekend. |
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 17:47:34 -0800, Peter Bennett
wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 17:14:56 -0500, Marley wrote: If you inboard is hand crank equipped like mine was on a previous boat, you REALLY don't need to hand crank it when the battery runs down. I killed my battery at anchor a few times (thank you Espar!). No problem. As long as you have two people aboard: 1 person lifts the decompression lever, which makes the engine turn over fairly easily. The second person pushes the start switch and once the engine is moving and the flywheel is doing it's job, just drop the decompression lever and she'll start like a charm. Since I normally single-hand, on a previous boat I installed a starter button in the engine compartment specifically for this reason - if the battery was too low to crank against the engine compression, I could open the engine room, lift the decompression lever, then press the handy start button - with luck, the weak battery would then be able to crank the engine, and once it was turning fast, I would drop the decompression lever, and the engine would (hopefully) start. For the same reason, I found (with a voltmeter) where the starter button wires come to the relay that engages the starter. I have been able to start with near-dead battery by crossing th econnection with a screwdriver. A button would be better if I were doing that all the time. Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a "Hawg Polo?" . . . "Hawg Polo" |
Rodney Myrvaagnes wrote:
.... For the same reason, I found (with a voltmeter) where the starter button wires come to the relay that engages the starter. I have been able to start with near-dead battery by crossing th econnection with a screwdriver. A button would be better if I were doing that all the time. Isn't this called an "ignition switch"? What you're saying is that the wiring though the ignition switch is too small (or corroded, etc.) and is causing a voltage drop. BTW, I played that game hundreds of times with my old VW bug. However, a few years back a friend was working under his car and shorted the solenoid. Since it was in gear, the car lurched and fell off the jackstands, crushing his hip. A big Ooops! |
Yeah,
You sure wouldn't want to do that and have your 14,000 lb yacht fall off the jackstands!! ;-) Jeff wrote: Rodney Myrvaagnes wrote: ... For the same reason, I found (with a voltmeter) where the starter button wires come to the relay that engages the starter. I have been able to start with near-dead battery by crossing th econnection with a screwdriver. A button would be better if I were doing that all the time. Isn't this called an "ignition switch"? What you're saying is that the wiring though the ignition switch is too small (or corroded, etc.) and is causing a voltage drop. BTW, I played that game hundreds of times with my old VW bug. However, a few years back a friend was working under his car and shorted the solenoid. Since it was in gear, the car lurched and fell off the jackstands, crushing his hip. A big Ooops! |
Dave wrote:
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 10:34:51 -0500, Jeff said: Isn't this called an "ignition switch"? On a diesel? I don't think so. My profound apologies. I should have said the "starter key switch." |
I suppose it would be a bad idea to attach tie-downs to the propeller!
Don W wrote: Yeah, You sure wouldn't want to do that and have your 14,000 lb yacht fall off the jackstands!! ;-) Jeff wrote: Rodney Myrvaagnes wrote: ... For the same reason, I found (with a voltmeter) where the starter button wires come to the relay that engages the starter. I have been able to start with near-dead battery by crossing th econnection with a screwdriver. A button would be better if I were doing that all the time. Isn't this called an "ignition switch"? What you're saying is that the wiring though the ignition switch is too small (or corroded, etc.) and is causing a voltage drop. BTW, I played that game hundreds of times with my old VW bug. However, a few years back a friend was working under his car and shorted the solenoid. Since it was in gear, the car lurched and fell off the jackstands, crushing his hip. A big Ooops! |
"Jeff" wrote BTW, I played that game hundreds of times with my old VW bug. However, a few years back a friend was working under his car and shorted the solenoid. Since it was in gear, the car lurched and fell off the jackstands, crushing his hip. A big Ooops! That's why owner/repair manuals caution to disconnect the battery for ALL repairs - even non-electrical ones. |
Farm tractors are especially dangerous to attempt to start by shorting
at a starter mounted solenoid. There is often a graphic sticker applied near the starter by the manufacturer to remind of the danger. "Jeff" wrote in message ... Rodney Myrvaagnes wrote: ... For the same reason, I found (with a voltmeter) where the starter button wires come to the relay that engages the starter. I have been able to start with near-dead battery by crossing th econnection with a screwdriver. A button would be better if I were doing that all the time. Isn't this called an "ignition switch"? What you're saying is that the wiring though the ignition switch is too small (or corroded, etc.) and is causing a voltage drop. BTW, I played that game hundreds of times with my old VW bug. However, a few years back a friend was working under his car and shorted the solenoid. Since it was in gear, the car lurched and fell off the jackstands, crushing his hip. A big Ooops! |
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 10:34:51 -0500, Jeff
wrote: Rodney Myrvaagnes wrote: ... For the same reason, I found (with a voltmeter) where the starter button wires come to the relay that engages the starter. I have been able to start with near-dead battery by crossing th econnection with a screwdriver. A button would be better if I were doing that all the time. Isn't this called an "ignition switch"? What you're saying is that the wiring though the ignition switch is too small (or corroded, etc.) and is causing a voltage drop. No - nothing to do with the ignition switch. If the battery is fairly well discharged, it may not have enough power to crank a diesel against the compression. If you lift the decompression lever (opening the valves, and eliminating compression) the starter may then be able to crank the engine - once the engine is turning, the flywheel will (hopefully) have enough energy to get past a compression stroke, and the engine may start. -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 23:29:44 -0500, Rodney Myrvaagnes
wrote: I know a one-cylinder Volvo can be hand started, by a reliable witness. Apparently only by a 75-year-old Swede - not by a 40-year-old Canadian :-) -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
Steve Thomas wrote:
Farm tractors are especially dangerous to attempt to start by shorting at a starter mounted solenoid. There is often a graphic sticker applied near the starter by the manufacturer to remind of the danger. The reason is because the farmer could short the solenoid with a wrench and if the tractor was in gear it might well turn over and move the tractor foreward until it stopped on the farmer's foot. In pain, the farmer might well drop the wrench out of reach, and then he could stand out in the bugs and sun until some one came to rescue him. Don't laugh! It happenned to my father in law, and he near died of thirst, heatstroke and then exposure as it cooled down after dark, not to mention embarrassment when the boys got to talking. He was there most of a day and night before he was missed. He was 80 at the time, working as a scarecrow in a large cornfield. He just stopped for a pee, and the tractor moved, probably as a result of dirt settling under the wheels. He says he did nothing, it just rolled a foot and stopped on his foot. The people driving by on the highway just waved back, all day. I guess they didn't know the marine "arms up and down" distress signal. He was within sight of the saint John River. He said later "Never did well water taste so much like rum." Terry K |
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 10:34:51 -0500, Jeff
wrote: Rodney Myrvaagnes wrote: ... For the same reason, I found (with a voltmeter) where the starter button wires come to the relay that engages the starter. I have been able to start with near-dead battery by crossing th econnection with a screwdriver. A button would be better if I were doing that all the time. Isn't this called an "ignition switch"? What you're saying is that the wiring though the ignition switch is too small (or corroded, etc.) and is causing a voltage drop. No, the starter solenoid. Nothing wrong with the wiring, but I couldn't reach the compression releases from the cockpit, where the starter button is. BTW, I played that game hundreds of times with my old VW bug. However, a few years back a friend was working under his car and shorted the solenoid. Since it was in gear, the car lurched and fell off the jackstands, crushing his hip. A big Ooops! Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a "In this house we _obey_ the laws of thermodynamics." --Homer Simpson |
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 15:48:04 -0500, Jeff
wrote: I'll be curious to hear the replies - although some will say it can be done, I've only heard a few people say they have actually done it. I hand-start my 30 HP Atomic 4 once a year to make sure I can do it if I have to. Rubber-banding magazine shin guards to your legs is recommended G It works fine if the engine is in good tune. I am interested in finding out what popular marine diesels can still be started this way, if any, as I find it a great alternative. I recall more than one cruising/racing tale where a dead or damaged electrical system was circumvented by rigging a rope to a diesel flywheel through blocks and then using the force of a crash gybe to spin the wheel. (I am aware of the single-cylinder/flick the compression levers technique) Some time back, I saw a couple of firms that made wind-up starters, which I thought was a great idea. You could use them every time or keep one in storage as a spare starter (they had different mounting models and teeth for the common marine diesels. |
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 19:08:41 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote: The key question is whether a two cylinder diesel like a 20 hp Yanmar 2QM can really be hand started or if it is an "only when your life absolutely depends on it" kind of operation. I don't have much experience with engines under 200 HP so I'd appreciate the benefit of actual experience. Beat the crank by carrying a "booster pack" from your local auto supplier. Small, light, cheap, sealed battery with jumper clamps that will give you plenty of starting juice. Ryk |
Here are some spring wound diesel starters for small to BIG diesels!
http://62.73.167.82/ -- Keith __ "A typical vice of American politics is the avoidance of saying anything real on real issues."- Theodore Roosevelt "Jeff" wrote in message ... Roger Long wrote: The consensus from the owner's forum for my boat on emergency starting a 2 cylinder Yanmar seems to be this: For emergency starting with dead batteries, carry one of the following on board. A Westmarine emergency battery pack or an NFL linebacker properly trained and housebroken. So why not just carry a two batteries instead of the emergency pack? You can get AGM starters from an auto shop at about $100. With the low self discharge you can jut keep one in reserve for the weekend. |
"Skip Gundlach" skipgundlach sez use my name at earthlink dot fishcatcher
(net) - with apologies for the spamtrap wrote in : 6 L16HC are on the list... Wow....Your own power company!....(c; |
But the NFL Linebacker you can use as a grinder on windy days.
I agree with carrying two batteries. Go to west marine and buy a battery combiner. With one of these you can keep the spare battery fresh and fully charged. When the starting battery dies move the spare into full time duty and buy a new spare. "Keith" wrote in message ... Here are some spring wound diesel starters for small to BIG diesels! http://62.73.167.82/ -- Keith __ "A typical vice of American politics is the avoidance of saying anything real on real issues."- Theodore Roosevelt "Jeff" wrote in message ... Roger Long wrote: The consensus from the owner's forum for my boat on emergency starting a 2 cylinder Yanmar seems to be this: For emergency starting with dead batteries, carry one of the following on board. A Westmarine emergency battery pack or an NFL linebacker properly trained and housebroken. So why not just carry a two batteries instead of the emergency pack? You can get AGM starters from an auto shop at about $100. With the low self discharge you can jut keep one in reserve for the weekend. |
"Rick" wrote
I agree with carrying two batteries. Go to west marine and buy a battery combiner. With one of these you can keep the spare battery fresh and fully charged. When the starting battery dies move the spare into full time duty and buy a new spare. For a big engine large starting loads or no other way to start it, sure. On a power boat where there is no other propulsion, absolutely. The 20 hp diesel in my boat is a very small electrical load. People have even started them with a handful of flashlight batteries in a pinch. With both batteries tied together and doing everything, the drawdown cycle from ship's service loads will only be half the discharge depth for both batteries. Since these will be expensive AGM's on my boat, that's significant in battery life. I make it a practice to always start and warm up the engine before sailing (no choice in our marine dock) even if sailing off a mooring or anchor. Then I know it will be ready to go in an emergency. With the engine as an auxiliary, it makes sense for me to swap the redundancy of keeping a dedicated starter battery for the longer life of smaller discharge depth. Plus, I have a dead simple system. -- Roger Long |
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