Advice on buffers?
 

I've been using an old Sears 7 inch automobile buffer for years to do my
annual topside waxing, but I've noticed others in the yard have a heavy
duty buffer that works a lot better. However, I haven't seen anything
in the stores that's sold as a buffer. Does anyone have any advice on
what I might get? Since I'll only use it a few times a year it doesn't
have to be super high quality.

Also, I've heard its easy to get too aggressive with these buffers; any
advice?

Jeff Morris wrote:
I've been using an old Sears 7 inch automobile buffer for years to do my
annual topside waxing, but I've noticed others in the yard have a heavy
duty buffer that works a lot better. However, I haven't seen anything
in the stores that's sold as a buffer. Does anyone have any advice on
what I might get? Since I'll only use it a few times a year it doesn't
have to be super high quality.

We bought a Coleman 10" buffer at Wal-Mart that has worked great. It's
got a random orbit action, a thick soft foam rubber disc, and isn't very
heavy. It works even though it was dropped about half into the water one
time and yanked very quickly back up by the cord (no, it wan't *me* that
dropped it).


Also, I've heard its easy to get too aggressive with these buffers; any
advice?


Well, you certainly don't want to press too hard or use too coarse a
grit. We use 3M Superfine and make several passes in a big figure-8
pattern; then wash the hull and rinse very thoroughly. Don't skimp on
buffing pads, if one is looking slightly sodden or raggedy, change it.

A dilute Simple Green is good for getting the waxy grit off; we have
used 3M Marine Wax (after changing pads on the buffer) and 2 coats seems
to last about a year. My wife is very diligent about the appearance of
her boat!

Hope this helps.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

A good variable speed auto body shop buffer is best and especially one
that will accept bolt-on /screw-on genuine lambswool bonnets and NOT
the cheapy double knit 'tie-on' polyester bonnet covers.
WEN (brand) used to be the best value but are now sadly very hard to
find.
Don't 'chintz', buy a good one (one with easily replaceable motor
brushes and good bearings) and you WILL use it more than once a year
...... on auto, fiberglass, varnish and other coating/paint restoration,
etc. Also buy extra lambswool bonnets so that you never have to use
different compound grits on the same bonnet ..... one bonnet = one grit
ONLY.

Random orrbital 'buffers' are next to worthless - IMHO.


In article , Jeff Morris
wrote:

I've been using an old Sears 7 inch automobile buffer for years to do my
annual topside waxing, but I've noticed others in the yard have a heavy
duty buffer that works a lot better. However, I haven't seen anything
in the stores that's sold as a buffer. Does anyone have any advice on
what I might get? Since I'll only use it a few times a year it doesn't
have to be super high quality.

Also, I've heard its easy to get too aggressive with these buffers; any
advice?

Agressive .......
Do all gel restorations in 2 ft. X 2 ft. sections, just keep it moving
at all times and DONT press it - use a light touch, let the grit of the
compound do all the work. For severe restoration its sometimes better
to 'flat sand' first with fine 1000, 1300 or 2000 grit wet/dry paper
and soapy water first, then remove the sanding haze with a buffer and
superfine grades of polishing compound. Stay away from the
'boat-store' compounds (exception: 3M ultra fine fiberglass polishing
compound); super fine auto body shop polishing compounds are cheaper
and much better - buy these at auto paint supply shops if you cant
locate the 3M fiberglass super fine compounds.

This will be the SAME technique /method of polishing/buffing a NEW
fiberglass hull when its pulled from its mold.
If the hull has been previously waxed, strip the old dead wax with
caustics before attempting to power-buff, then reseal with (carnauba)
natural waxes ---- Collinite Fleet Wax usually lasts the longest.

Dont be afraid to 'hog-down' gelcoat when restoring.... If you cant
see the matting layer through the gelcoat, then there is enough to
power-buff and restore.



In article , Jeff Morris
wrote:

I've been using an old Sears 7 inch automobile buffer for years to do my
annual topside waxing, but I've noticed others in the yard have a heavy
duty buffer that works a lot better. However, I haven't seen anything
in the stores that's sold as a buffer. Does anyone have any advice on
what I might get? Since I'll only use it a few times a year it doesn't
have to be super high quality.

Also, I've heard its easy to get too aggressive with these buffers; any
advice?

We use a Makita 9227C. Great for buffing as well as sanding. Very heavy
duty, works very well.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
I've been using an old Sears 7 inch automobile buffer for years to do my
annual topside waxing, but I've noticed others in the yard have a heavy
duty buffer that works a lot better. However, I haven't seen anything in
the stores that's sold as a buffer. Does anyone have any advice on what I
might get? Since I'll only use it a few times a year it doesn't have to
be super high quality.

Also, I've heard its easy to get too aggressive with these buffers; any
advice?

I use an old B&D that I bought new for $30 bucks when I was 15, 30 years
ago. How the hell did that happen.

Every spring I went to the boat yard and contracted to buff, sand, paint,
blister repair, glass work, and whatever. It paid for a good chunk of
college and bought a few beers. I still use the B&D and it is still going
strong. The new Makita's are much like the old B&D and are very nice units.
My brother uses a Milwaukee that is very nice but your shoulders are gonna
know it at the end of the day.

I also use a Porter Cable right angle electric DA with lambs wool and foam
pads. I like this set up almost as much as the B&D and there are no swirl
marks.

No polishing this year, NEW AWLGRIP!!

Good luck

"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
I've been using an old Sears 7 inch automobile buffer for years to do my
annual topside waxing, but I've noticed others in the yard have a heavy
duty buffer that works a lot better. However, I haven't seen anything in
the stores that's sold as a buffer. Does anyone have any advice on what I
might get? Since I'll only use it a few times a year it doesn't have to
be super high quality.

Also, I've heard its easy to get too aggressive with these buffers; any
advice?

We use a Makita 9227C. Works great for buffing and sanding.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
I've been using an old Sears 7 inch automobile buffer for years to do my
annual topside waxing, but I've noticed others in the yard have a heavy
duty buffer that works a lot better. However, I haven't seen anything in
the stores that's sold as a buffer. Does anyone have any advice on what I
might get? Since I'll only use it a few times a year it doesn't have to
be super high quality.

Also, I've heard its easy to get too aggressive with these buffers; any
advice?