wrote:
I have a 1979 115hp Evinrude outboard. We're
trying to change the impeller. We removed a
bolt which held the top of a shaft in a bracket
in the top part of the motor, then removed 5
bolts from the lower end and tried to drop it down,
but it is stuck somehow. Can anyone offer any
advice on this, and/or know of a place online
where there's a diagram or explanation of how
to change an impeller?

Thank you for any help!
David

Assuming you already knew repair manuals were available on this
planet:-) but decided to try here, I'll have a go:-)

It sounds like you maybe haven't unlinked the shift rod up in the
engine tub???

(i) Remove prop, drain oil etc

(ii) Put gearcase into reverse (may need to hand turn prop a little to
get it to fully engage)

(iii) Remove the shift rod retaining clip;(if you have trouble ID'ing
it, get someone to put it in & out of gear while you watch the linkages
at the engine. The "clip" is the one that retains the shift rod before
it disappears down towards the leg)

(iv) Mark where the trim tab is set then remove, the retaining screw,
the tab & if any the screw inside the tab cavity (1/2").

(v) Remove the recessed screw next to the tab cavity (5/8 thin wall socket)

(vi) Remove the remaining gearcase to leg attaching screws.

It should now come away from the leg, work slowly & don't force
anything just jiggle a bit if needed, the drive shaft splines stick, the
water pump pipe gets frozen in it's grommet & the shift rod is delicate.

Doing the pump is straight forward.

Putting the gearcase back on the leg is the same as getting it off but;

(i) Make sure the gearcase is in reverse,

(ii) A "little" grease on the sides (only) of the drive shaft splines

(iii) New seals & shift rod grommets etc

(iv) When ready you need to get the drive shaft splines, the water pump
tube & the shift rod all to slide into their respective places, don't
force, jiggle & maybe turn the flywheel a little. If the gearcase won't
slide up into position by hand, try realigning everything till it does.

Good luck


K



So just in case you harbour even the slightest reservations about
how dangerous this psycho Krause actually is???

Even after he has real life stalked 2 of the female NG contributors
over the years?? if that's not worrying enough then have a look at what
in his lying mind he's actually proud of;


I came home early one day, tapped the garage door opener in the car and
voila! There was a strange car in the garage with an even stranger
couple completing their Christmas shopping by loading up their car with
my wife's jewelry and my electronics.

The burglars saw me, obviously, and as the male ran across the back of
the garage to get into his car, I drove forward with my Ford truck and
pinned him ever so gently between my Ford front bumper and his car's
rear bumper. And then I drove forward a leeeeeeetle bit more and gave
him a leg fracture.


then when people said how crazy this lie was; he doesn't stop he just
lies in a higher gear:-)

I'll modify it, just for you, stunatz:

I've been driving for more than 40 years without causing or receiving an
injury, *except* for the time I deliberately broke a burglar's leg by crushing
it between the front bumper of my Ford F150 truck and the rear bumper of his
car.

Mo' betta?

Sheep ****e. This is SOP in most shops and in many service manuals I have
read this is SOP. I have NEVER seen an impeller fail from petroleum based
oil products. That's just silly. I've done this for many years and with
every kind of engine, make, model you can imagine and what you describe has
never been a problem.



"Sexytom976" wrote in message
oups.com...
One more thing to add here....

do not EVER, EVER use 2 cycle or any other petrolium
based oil on a water pump impeller. This will
destroy the rubber in no time.

What Johnson manual says to lube up the rubber impeller with
oil based lubricant? What about the johnson impeller kits?
The only lube the put in there is for the top of the lower
unit to connect to the engine. If you think manufacturers
over engineer products just for the hell of it, you are
mistaken. Technically you probably dont even need
to lube it up in the first place. When submerged in the
water the impeller is underwater. When connected to muffs,
water is being forced in. Sort of explains why OMC or Bomb.
doesnt include it in the kits.

In any case, certain types of rubber dont do well when exposed
to oil. I am not saying its going to fall apart immediately, BUT
lets say I change mine now. Ok so I put it together and put it on
the boat. I can't start my boat for the next 2 months (winter) So all
that time the oil can just sit and soften up the rubber.
What happens over time?? Nothing much... just premature failure.

I guess that is good for the shops. Blown powerheads make LOTS of
money.

Just because you and possibly other shops do it doesnt make it right.
In addition to this, I can't say what Merc, Honda, or any other brands
suggest what to use.

I DO know that there are different types of rubber used for different
applications. Just because its rubber doesnt mean that safe to use
with petrolium.

There has been lots of discussion about what to use in previous posts.
Check it out.

Tom


none wrote:
Sheep ****e. This is SOP in most shops and in many service manuals I
have
read this is SOP. I have NEVER seen an impeller fail from petroleum
based
oil products. That's just silly. I've done this for many years and
with
every kind of engine, make, model you can imagine and what you
describe has
never been a problem.



"Sexytom976" wrote in message
oups.com...
One more thing to add here....

do not EVER, EVER use 2 cycle or any other petrolium
based oil on a water pump impeller. This will
destroy the rubber in no time.