Starting batteries for 20 HP
 

Is there any reason to consider using dual purpose or a one starting, one deep cycle set up with a 20 hp Yanmar diesel? I would think the starting loads on the small engine are low enough that two deep cycle batteries would do fine.

--

Roger Long

I suspect that you are correct. Our boat came equipped with 2 8D house batteries
and a 4D starting battery. The starting battery was actually a deep cycle gel
cell and worked perfectly well. (85 HP Perkins) I replaced it with a Group 30
starting battery for the savings in size. Unless your engine is hard to start and
requires alot of cranking Incidently, the previous owner accidently started the
engine in -20F temps using the deep cycle battery!


Doug
s/v CAllista

"Roger Long" wrote in message ...
Is there any reason to consider using dual purpose or a one starting, one deep cycle set up with a 20 hp Yanmar diesel? I would think the starting loads on the small engine are low enough that two deep cycle batteries would do fine.

--

Roger Long

I agree with Doug.

i don't see any problems with it.

Roger Long wrote:
Is there any reason to consider using dual purpose or a one starting,
one deep cycle set up with a 20 hp Yanmar diesel? I would think the
starting loads on the small engine are low enough that two deep cycle
batteries would do fine.

--

Roger Long



No problem - my Yanmar 2gm20's start almost instantly, and there's no
pre-heater, so the load is modest (80 Amps?) and the total drain is
minimal. However, I took the opportunity to replace my starter deep
cycles with zero hassle AGM cranking batteries.

Roger:

Yes, two deep cycle batteries should easily start a two cylinder Yanmar. But don't you want to separate the batteries so you can't run them both down at the same time? I am pretty sure that one deep cycle Group 27 will also start your Yanmar easily. So set up two deep cycle batteries; each on one side of a 1, 2, all, off switch so you can always have one battery fully topped off after sailing all day after using the house loads. You can then alternate your "house" and "starting" batteries to keep them equally charged up.

David
"Roger Long" wrote in message ...
Is there any reason to consider using dual purpose or a one starting, one deep cycle set up with a 20 hp Yanmar diesel? I would think the starting loads on the small engine are low enough that two deep cycle batteries would do fine.

--

Roger Long

Yes, a deep cycle will start your Yanmar, but you are reducing the
life of the battery by doing so.

There's a reason, other than marketing, why batteries are labeled
'starting' or 'deep cycle' or 'dual purpose'.
I believe the main difference is the thickness of the plates. Starter
batts, are built for short duration, high loads. DC are for less
load over a longer time period. DP are a compromise between the two.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Is there any reason to consider using dual purpose or a one starting,
one deep cycle set up with a 20 hp Yanmar diesel? I would think the
starting loads on the small engine are low enough that two deep cycle
batteries would do fine.

--

Roger Long

I understand that but, is the load on a 20 hp diesel that you can
start by hand high enough to significantly reduce the life of the
battery?

--

Roger Long



"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
Yes, a deep cycle will start your Yanmar, but you are reducing the
life of the battery by doing so.

There's a reason, other than marketing, why batteries are labeled
'starting' or 'deep cycle' or 'dual purpose'.
I believe the main difference is the thickness of the plates.
Starter
batts, are built for short duration, high loads. DC are for less
load over a longer time period. DP are a compromise between the two.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Is there any reason to consider using dual purpose or a one
starting,
one deep cycle set up with a 20 hp Yanmar diesel? I would think the
starting loads on the small engine are low enough that two deep
cycle
batteries would do fine.

--

Roger Long

I understand that but, is the load on a 20 hp diesel that you can start by
hand high enough to significantly reduce the life of the battery?

It depends on what you're using your boat for. If you're starting &
stopping your engine frequently, then maybe a starter battery makes sense.
But while cruising and using my 3GM30 (actually 27 hp) all I used were deep
cycles and they worked fine.

Another topic, one maybe you've thought about already, is how well the
alternator on your Yanmar is charging your batteries. If your charging
system isn't up to snuff, doesn't matter what batteries you're using, you'll
never get full cranking amps out of your batteries.

Paul

Define 'significantly'. If you're starting only once in a while, as
most sailboats do, I doubt that you'll notice the shortened life.
Are you buying new batts, or are there 2 DC already in your boat?

I had the separate start batt and a DC, When the DC went , I replaced
with a DP (that's all the local Sears stocks anymore). When the
starter batt goes away, I'll go with a second DP. I have a manual
separator switch.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
I understand that but, is the load on a 20 hp diesel that you can
start by hand high enough to significantly reduce the life of the
battery?

--

Roger Long



"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
Yes, a deep cycle will start your Yanmar, but you are reducing the
life of the battery by doing so.

There's a reason, other than marketing, why batteries are labeled
'starting' or 'deep cycle' or 'dual purpose'.
I believe the main difference is the thickness of the plates.
Starter
batts, are built for short duration, high loads. DC are for less
load over a longer time period. DP are a compromise between the
two.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Is there any reason to consider using dual purpose or a one
starting,
one deep cycle set up with a 20 hp Yanmar diesel? I would think
the
starting loads on the small engine are low enough that two deep
cycle
batteries would do fine.

--

Roger Long

Roger Long wrote:

Is there any reason to consider using dual purpose or a one starting, one deep cycle set up with a 20 hp Yanmar diesel? I would think the starting loads on the small engine are low enough that two deep cycle batteries would do fine.



Are you asking the proper question?
If you have deep discharge batteries for cruising power in lieu of
engine, then you might need to consider being practiced at starting by
hand lest you find yourself without adequate battery to run whatever
including starting the engine. If you have a small engine, keep a small
starting battery for the task... Many production boats in this area
(Great Lakes) have the dual battery configuration successfully, and
occasional white knuckles.

Skip

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
Yes, a deep cycle will start your Yanmar, but you are reducing the
life of the battery by doing so.

Not by enough that you would even notice it. A recreational boat
starts so seldom and a load of 80A isn't enough to do any harm.

There's a reason, other than marketing, why batteries are labeled
'starting' or 'deep cycle' or 'dual purpose'.
I believe the main difference is the thickness of the plates. Starter
batts, are built for short duration, high loads. DC are for less
load over a longer time period. DP are a compromise between the two.

All true.

Doug
s/v CAllista


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Is there any reason to consider using dual purpose or a one starting,
one deep cycle set up with a 20 hp Yanmar diesel? I would think the
starting loads on the small engine are low enough that two deep cycle
batteries would do fine.

--

Roger Long

I thinking about rotating both the hotel loads and the rather modest
starting loads between two deep cycle batteries so the get even
service. I'm aware of the problem with leaving them both connected if
there is an electrical leak or misjudgment about usage. This wouldn't
be as serious anyway as it would on a boat with an engine too big to
hand start.

--

Roger Long

"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in message
...

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
Yes, a deep cycle will start your Yanmar, but you are reducing the
life of the battery by doing so.

Not by enough that you would even notice it. A recreational boat
starts so seldom and a load of 80A isn't enough to do any harm.


Right, I agree. But, being in the MD area, I've got to consider
sometimes starting in cold weather and cranking more than usual.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_

Scott Vernon wrote:
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in message
...

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...

Yes, a deep cycle will start your Yanmar, but you are reducing the
life of the battery by doing so.

Not by enough that you would even notice it. A recreational boat
starts so seldom and a load of 80A isn't enough to do any harm.



Right, I agree. But, being in the MD area, I've got to consider
sometimes starting in cold weather and cranking more than usual.


Actually, I think the bigger issue is the non-starter loads. If the
boat has a fridge or other high house loads, you want to add house bank
capacity, which then makes it hard to do the "swap 1 & 2" trick. Once
you have dedicated banks it pays to use a proper starting battery.

OTOH, my previous boat had a finicky Westerbeke, which has a pre-heater,
and it never had a problem starting off a Surrette deep cycle.

On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 22:46:29 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote:

I thinking about rotating both the hotel loads and the rather modest
starting loads between two deep cycle batteries so the get even
service. I'm aware of the problem with leaving them both connected if
there is an electrical leak or misjudgment about usage. This wouldn't
be as serious anyway as it would on a boat with an engine too big to
hand start.
Depends on how fast you need the engine started. Say there's a drunk
in a cigarette boat (or a tanker) bearing down on you. Or the wind
died and you have a 3 knot current pushing you on the rocks 50 yards
away. It's not that you have to have a motor ready for instant use to
go sailing. It's the situations you get into because you think you
have a motor ready for instant use.

That said, I sailed for more years than I'd care to remember using the
"rhythm system" for batteries as you describe. I did flatline the
system a couple of times by forgetting to switch from BOTH after
charging but it never got me in any trouble I couldn't get out of.
Regardless, I now have an idjit-proof system I'm much happier with.

Oh, and don't forget, batteries run other things than starters. Bilge
pumps, for example.
__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

I also live in the MD area (actually I live in MD proper) , and
"sometimes" isn't really a factor, and "cranking more than usual"
isn't either as long as it isn't the norm. I can start my engine at
freezing temps with maybe 5 revs rather than the normal 2. If your
engine requires alot of revs to start then a dedicated starting
battery is probably a good idea. But even so, 80A isn't a heavy load
for a decent deep cycle battery. I draw 50A to run the refrigeration
and 100A to run the microwave.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...

"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in message
...

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
Yes, a deep cycle will start your Yanmar, but you are reducing the
life of the battery by doing so.

Not by enough that you would even notice it. A recreational boat
starts so seldom and a load of 80A isn't enough to do any harm.


Right, I agree. But, being in the MD area, I've got to consider
sometimes starting in cold weather and cranking more than usual.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_

My outlook is probably effected somewhat by watching the motorcycle
size battery in my plane start the 160 HP, high compression, engine
briskly on even below zero days.

BTW the 1,2 Both switch is an anachronism that I'll be ditching as
soon as I can get the boat back to Maine and overhaul the whole
system. There are very inexpensive battery management and charging
systems now that charge the batteries while leaving them isolated from
each other for normal loads.

--

Roger Long



"Glen "Wiley" Wilson" wrote in
message ...
On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 22:46:29 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote:

I thinking about rotating both the hotel loads and the rather modest
starting loads between two deep cycle batteries so the get even
service. I'm aware of the problem with leaving them both connected
if
there is an electrical leak or misjudgment about usage. This
wouldn't
be as serious anyway as it would on a boat with an engine too big to
hand start.
Depends on how fast you need the engine started. Say there's a
drunk
in a cigarette boat (or a tanker) bearing down on you. Or the wind
died and you have a 3 knot current pushing you on the rocks 50 yards
away. It's not that you have to have a motor ready for instant use
to
go sailing. It's the situations you get into because you think you
have a motor ready for instant use.

That said, I sailed for more years than I'd care to remember using
the
"rhythm system" for batteries as you describe. I did flatline the
system a couple of times by forgetting to switch from BOTH after
charging but it never got me in any trouble I couldn't get out of.
Regardless, I now have an idjit-proof system I'm much happier with.

Oh, and don't forget, batteries run other things than starters.
Bilge
pumps, for example.
__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

Roger Long wrote:

snip There are very inexpensive battery management and charging
systems now that charge the batteries while leaving them isolated from
each other for normal loads.



It seems Glen and I have gone down similar paths...
If I'm understanding him, both of us _suggest_ the same thing - keep
engine starting energy available in a starting battery.
It gives you both house batteries to draw down without hand starting.
It's not only about the 1-B-2 switch.
Go ahead , use one of those motorcycle size starting duty batteries
instead of another ball buster - you have the house batteries as backup
for hard starting (a second level contingency) if you ever need it.
Just get enough CCA for the job...
It's like buying a little insurance...
Three-way isolation is pretty straight forward - except for non-matching
battery banks with accelerated (smart) charging.

Or do what a large percentage of owners do - live with the dual-battery
discharge rules you suggest (and the outcomes).
As you know, you'll face lot's of compromise decisions as you finish her
out to your satisfaction (not ours).
You will probably live thru whatever decision you make as we all have up
to this point.

Skip

On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 00:53:58 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote:

My outlook is probably effected somewhat by watching the motorcycle
size battery in my plane start the 160 HP, high compression, engine
briskly on even below zero days.

Not quite what I meant. I'm talking about how long it takes to hand
crank the engine if you manage to flatline both batteries, which you
eventually will do following the protocol you mentioned.

BTW the 1,2 Both switch is an anachronism that I'll be ditching as
soon as I can get the boat back to Maine and overhaul the whole
system.

Which was my point.
__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

"Roger Long" wrote in message
.. .
My outlook is probably effected somewhat by watching the motorcycle size
battery in my plane start the 160 HP, high compression, engine briskly on
even below zero days.

Most aircraft batteries (even if motorcycle size) are AGM or gel. High
energy density for their size. Also, I assume that you preheat your engine
on your aircraft prior to starting.. All aircraft I have piloted require
preheat prior to starting to minimize excessive wear while the oil
decides to be useful. So most aircraft engines are not actually started at
zero temps.

BTW the 1,2 Both switch is an anachronism that I'll be ditching as soon as
I can get the boat back to Maine and overhaul the whole system.

Agreed. An antiquated concept.

There are very inexpensive battery management and charging systems now
that charge the batteries while leaving them isolated from each other for
normal loads.

Not exacty inexpensive but worth it.

--

Roger Long


Doug
s/v Callista

Roger Long wrote:
I understand that but, is the load on a 20 hp diesel that you can
start by hand high enough to significantly reduce the life of the
battery?


What's the voltage drop when starting? Starting batteries can see surges
bring them down to as low as 8 volts and bounce back just fine. DC
batteries don't like this.

I'm not sure where the cut-off is, but if the starting load drops your
voltage down below 10, or maybe 10.5 (assuming that you've got a good
current path to starter & ground), then you might consider staying with
a start battery.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

I'll let you know when I get the boat:)

My first two batteries are free, (and therefore probably minimum
quality) when the boat is delivered. Since this boat will seldom, if
ever, see shore power and often sail on and off its mooring, one of my
first projects will be a complete upgrade of the whole power system.
This will probably involve moving to sealed batteries in the bilge
since these boats are stern heavy and a bit tender. I'll also probably
put in a solar trickle system.

--

Roger Long



"DSK" wrote in message
...
Roger Long wrote:
I understand that but, is the load on a 20 hp diesel that you can
start by hand high enough to significantly reduce the life of the
battery?


What's the voltage drop when starting? Starting batteries can see
surges bring them down to as low as 8 volts and bounce back just
fine. DC batteries don't like this.

I'm not sure where the cut-off is, but if the starting load drops
your voltage down below 10, or maybe 10.5 (assuming that you've got
a good current path to starter & ground), then you might consider
staying with a start battery.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 12:24:16 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote:
I'll let you know when I get the boat:)

My first two batteries are free, (and therefore probably minimum
quality) when the boat is delivered. Since this boat will seldom, if
ever, see shore power and often sail on and off its mooring, one of my
first projects will be a complete upgrade of the whole power system.
This will probably involve moving to sealed batteries in the bilge
since these boats are stern heavy and a bit tender. I'll also probably
put in a solar trickle system.

===========================================

With my last boat I used 6 volt golf cart batteries for both starting
and a house bank driving a large inverter. The engines were 350 hp,
454 cubic inch V8s, and they never had a problem cranking, even in
freezing weather.

In article ,
"Roger Long" wrote:

My outlook is probably effected somewhat by watching the motorcycle
size battery in my plane start the 160 HP, high compression, engine
briskly on even below zero days.

BTW the 1,2 Both switch is an anachronism that I'll be ditching as
soon as I can get the boat back to Maine and overhaul the whole
system. There are very inexpensive battery management and charging
systems now that charge the batteries while leaving them isolated from
each other for normal loads.

--

Roger Long

There is a BIG difference between a DIESEL engine and a Gasoline engine,
when starting in cold weather. Comparing the two is "Apples and Oranges"
A diesel has a higher Compression Ratio than a Gas engine. Gas
volitilizes at a much lower temp than diesel fuel. Gas engines have
Spark Plugs that ignite the fuel/air mixture, and provides the required
heat of ignition. In a diesel with no glowplugs the only heat generated
is the Heat of Compression, which takes a while to build in the cyl.
That's why they invented Glow Plugs, and Intake Air Manifold Heaters,
to heat the fuel/air past the ignition temp.

Me

Glowplugs, etc are a feature of indirect injected engines. Many
smaller diesels are direct injected and do not require glowplugs. My
Perkins 85HP will start almost instantly even with temps below freezing.

Doug
s/v CAllista

"Me" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Roger Long" wrote:

My outlook is probably effected somewhat by watching the motorcycle
size battery in my plane start the 160 HP, high compression, engine
briskly on even below zero days.

BTW the 1,2 Both switch is an anachronism that I'll be ditching as
soon as I can get the boat back to Maine and overhaul the whole
system. There are very inexpensive battery management and charging
systems now that charge the batteries while leaving them isolated from
each other for normal loads.

--

Roger Long

There is a BIG difference between a DIESEL engine and a Gasoline engine,
when starting in cold weather. Comparing the two is "Apples and Oranges"
A diesel has a higher Compression Ratio than a Gas engine. Gas
volitilizes at a much lower temp than diesel fuel. Gas engines have
Spark Plugs that ignite the fuel/air mixture, and provides the required
heat of ignition. In a diesel with no glowplugs the only heat generated
is the Heat of Compression, which takes a while to build in the cyl.
That's why they invented Glow Plugs, and Intake Air Manifold Heaters,
to heat the fuel/air past the ignition temp.

Me

There is a BIG difference between a DIESEL engine and a Gasoline
engine,
when starting in cold weather.

I don't plan on starting my sailboat engine in weather as cold as I
fly my plane in. That's for sure!

--

Roger Long

I assume you have to preheat your aircraft engine in cold temps. I had to
preheat mine in anything below 40F. I've never seen a diesel engine in
a plane either.

Doug
s/v Callista


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...

There is a BIG difference between a DIESEL engine and a Gasoline engine,
when starting in cold weather.

I don't plan on starting my sailboat engine in weather as cold as I fly my
plane in. That's for sure!

--

Roger Long

On Thursday 13 January 2005 12:29 am in rec.boats.cruising Doug Dotson
wrote:

I assume you have to preheat your aircraft engine in cold temps. I had to
preheat mine in anything below 40F. I've never seen a diesel engine in
a plane either.

They are available, at least in Europe.
The advantage is that they run on turbine fuel rather than
avgas which is often hard to find.

--
My real address is crn (at) netunix (dot) com
WARNING all messages containing attachments or html will be silently
deleted. Send only plain text.

Doug Dotson wrote:
I assume you have to preheat your aircraft engine in cold temps. I had to
preheat mine in anything below 40F. I've never seen a diesel engine in
a plane either.


Most of the dirigibles had diesel engines, and the German air force had
diesel powered planes including at least one fighter.

http://www.csd.uwo.ca/~pettypi/elevo...ther/ju86.html

Modern developments in metallurgy and turborcharging may bring the
diesel back into aero prominence

http://www.deltahawkengines.com/diesel00.htm

Just poking around finding interesting stuff on the wwweb. Beats working!

DSK

On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 02:27:05 GMT, Skip wrote:

Or do what a large percentage of owners do - live with the dual-battery
discharge rules you suggest (and the outcomes).
As you know, you'll face lot's of compromise decisions as you finish her
out to your satisfaction (not ours).
You will probably live thru whatever decision you make as we all have up
to this point.

Dual batteries are working fine for me on an Atomic 4 gas engine, and
the system is simple, if not idiot proof. As insurance for those times
I may be an idiot, I carry a "booster pack" which is a sealed battery
complete with jumper cable style clamps and all the appropriate
switching, available at automotive suppliers for around US$50. Light,
cheap, simple and I can use it to boost my car in the winter.

Ryk

If your engine has a compression release, it can be started using a bunch
of D-cells.

"Ryk" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 02:27:05 GMT, Skip wrote:

Or do what a large percentage of owners do - live with the dual-battery
discharge rules you suggest (and the outcomes).
As you know, you'll face lot's of compromise decisions as you finish her
out to your satisfaction (not ours).
You will probably live thru whatever decision you make as we all have up
to this point.

Dual batteries are working fine for me on an Atomic 4 gas engine, and
the system is simple, if not idiot proof. As insurance for those times
I may be an idiot, I carry a "booster pack" which is a sealed battery
complete with jumper cable style clamps and all the appropriate
switching, available at automotive suppliers for around US$50. Light,
cheap, simple and I can use it to boost my car in the winter.

Ryk

In article ,
"Roger Long" wrote:

Is there any reason to consider using dual purpose or a one starting, one
deep cycle set up with a 20 hp Yanmar diesel? I would think the starting
loads on the small engine are low enough that two deep cycle batteries would
do fine.


Just about everything I've seen in the thread is correct, but I have a
couple of odd thoughts for you to consider.

We currently have 2 group 31s, about 230 total AH. Our 2GM20F will start
off a half-discharged group 27, so starting isn't a serious issue. Major
consumption is lights -- many, many lights -- as we're addicted to
reading and night sailing.

Our main problem has been that we motor too little. Usually, we've been
lucky to have even 50% charge.

----

Our last charter, the starting battery connected directly to the
alternator. The house battery was tied in via a simple on-off switch: On
to charge, off otherwise. That's not the best way to charge and it's
possible to drain all the batteries, but you can't fry the regulator.
-----

Last spring, we got a 12 watt solar charger which changed our habits
significantly. When we weekend, we're charged to 100% as we start out.

On our annual 3 week cruise around the Chesapeake, that little charger
satisfied our needs completely as long as we motored into a harbor every
few days. One morning, the battery was dead. A few hours of sun later,
we had enough charge to start.

I'll probably combine the two ideas next time I have to replace a
battery. Remaining 31 goes next to the engine, short leads. House bank
gets beefier, panel goes directly to it. Battery switch is almost always
off.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

"Jere Lull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Roger Long" wrote:

Is there any reason to consider using dual purpose or a one starting,
one
deep cycle set up with a 20 hp Yanmar diesel? I would think the
starting
loads on the small engine are low enough that two deep cycle batteries
would
do fine.


Just about everything I've seen in the thread is correct, but I have a
couple of odd thoughts for you to consider.

We currently have 2 group 31s, about 230 total AH. Our 2GM20F will start
off a half-discharged group 27, so starting isn't a serious issue. Major
consumption is lights -- many, many lights -- as we're addicted to
reading and night sailing.

Our main problem has been that we motor too little. Usually, we've been
lucky to have even 50% charge.

----

Our last charter, the starting battery connected directly to the
alternator. The house battery was tied in via a simple on-off switch: On
to charge, off otherwise. That's not the best way to charge and it's
possible to drain all the batteries, but you can't fry the regulator.
-----

Last spring, we got a 12 watt solar charger which changed our habits
significantly. When we weekend, we're charged to 100% as we start out.

On our annual 3 week cruise around the Chesapeake, that little charger
satisfied our needs completely as long as we motored into a harbor every
few days. One morning, the battery was dead. A few hours of sun later,
we had enough charge to start.

I'll probably combine the two ideas next time I have to replace a
battery. Remaining 31 goes next to the engine, short leads. House bank
gets beefier, panel goes directly to it. Battery switch is almost always
off.



Ahoy Jere!
Have you moved or am I mistaken? I thought you were in the SanD area. If
you're the same guy, I was seeking information about finding moorage a
couple of years ago around the south bay etc. Never made it to SD though,
but am now in middle Tennessee. Boy the sailing is sure different here!

Rico

In article ,
"Rico" wrote:

Ahoy Jere!
Have you moved or am I mistaken? I thought you were in the SanD area. If
you're the same guy, I was seeking information about finding moorage a
couple of years ago around the south bay etc. Never made it to SD though,
but am now in middle Tennessee. Boy the sailing is sure different here!

No, have only sailed the Right coast, mostly Chesapeake Bay.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/