Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#11
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Don...here is the info on my seagull
---------------------------------------------------- 40 plus 3 hp / mdl SJM 635 D3 / FP 45FF1 This is Model SJM 635 D3 - the SJM means it's a "Forty Minus", putting it the "lowest" of the breed - 636 is the Engine Number - D3 means April, 1963 (4th month = 4th letter) - there's no "L", so it's not a long shaft model. # FP962G9 MAKING IT A JULY,1969 MODEL ------------------------------------------------------ my seagull motor was built in March 1979; the double letters give it away. seagull started date coding in 1963, with A3=January 1963, B5=February 1965, etc. (December motors were stamped 'M', 'L' was skipped as it was used to denote long shaft). In order to avoid confusion, in 1973, the month code went to double letters. My motor has the Mk III electronic ignition (nice, no points to corrode or adjust), indicated by the 'E' before 'FPL' (Forty Plus, long shaft). ------------------------------------------------------- "Don White" wrote in message ... "~^ beancounter ~^" wrote in message om... bingo!!...we let this family o/b sit, leaned against the side of the house in long beach, ca...for, like, 10 years...it was my wifes fathers unit...it worked great...now, i want to get it running "tits" again, and am having to sink some $ into it to get there...thanx for the tips, we will take care of it this time..i am also fixing up a nice little seagull....richard / colorado What Seagull do ypu have? Mine is a 1954 40 Plus 3hp. It hit 50 this year. I should have taken it out for a run ......I'll promise it some exercise next summer. |
#12
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
damm...50 years old? that's great...
"Don White" wrote in message ... "~^ beancounter ~^" wrote in message om... bingo!!...we let this family o/b sit, leaned against the side of the house in long beach, ca...for, like, 10 years...it was my wifes fathers unit...it worked great...now, i want to get it running "tits" again, and am having to sink some $ into it to get there...thanx for the tips, we will take care of it this time..i am also fixing up a nice little seagull....richard / colorado What Seagull do ypu have? Mine is a 1954 40 Plus 3hp. It hit 50 this year. I should have taken it out for a run ......I'll promise it some exercise next summer. |
#13
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
yep Rich...I know just the type of shop you are
speaking about...thanx... Rich Hampel wrote in message ... For a mechanic for this engine, look for a mechanic with grey or white hair and who has been in the business for most of his lifetime. Typicaly someone with a small independent shop .... someone who wont rip you off. ;-) In article , ~^ beancounter ~^ wrote: rich...thanx for this info...i am going to snip the info below and fwd it to my mechanic (he is online)...i will find out what "shaft" is bad or fouled up. i thought he said the long shaft...but, i do recall him mentioning the crank and head parts / area ..... do you recomend any mechaincs that are "tops" for this motor? i may be interested in shipping it for a "re build", fresh paint & lables in the next 12 months, or so...richard / colorado Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft... as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast iron cranikshaft nose. A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the 'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head. Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc. The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you take care of it. :-) |
#14
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
i did a bit of browsing, looking for a url to
order new/used parts...and i didn't one for the new owners of the motor line...does anyone have a phone number, or url for a good, honest, "fully stocked" company to get parts from? thanx... For a mechanic for this engine, look for a mechanic with grey or white hair and who has been in the business for most of his lifetime. Typicaly someone with a small independent shop .... someone who wont rip you off. ;-) |
#15
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
i chatted w/my mechanic...he states
so, i guess i am looking for a crankshaft & bering housing... ---------snip------------------------------ "We need the crank shaft PT #314696 or 328838 I can order it for 208.57 Brng Hsng # 383231 is No Longer Avalible If we get one great (I need to look at the one we have not sure if I can salvage it). The rest of the parts I can salvage or order as needed..gaskets etc ..... -------------------------------------------- |
#16
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
hey rich....i bought a used one (2hp) on eBay
that looks like it will "match right up" for parts...etc...If I have frozen the crankshaft (just as you thought) is it runied? or, should i be able to salavage my old one...like, if i take it apart carefuly and work on it a bit?? thanx... Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft... as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast iron cranikshaft nose. A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the 'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head. Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc. The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you take care of it. :-) |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
FS: Yanmar 6LP parts in Tampa, Florida | Marketplace | |||
WTB: 1.1HP MD38/MD39 Johnson Parts in Mpls.,MN | Marketplace | |||
Johnson Outboard Parts | UK Power Boats | |||
55 johnson for parts | General |