How to rig my jib?
 

I have a 13' sailboat. The leads from the jib go to a seat mounted across
the boat, just behind the mast. First they go through U shaped piece and
then accross the seat to a cam-cleat.
The seat is attached by 6 screws, two to each side and two to the
daggerboard housing. (Please excuse the lack of proper terminology, but I
hope you will know what I mean.) Some of the screws have worked their way
loose, so I removed the seat to fix it.
The screw simply go into pretty thin fiberglass; there is nothing behind the
fiberglass. The screws have simply stripped out the fiberglass. I can put
down a couple new layers of glass, but I expect it will just strip out
again. There is no access to the bottom to add a backer.

So, my question...
I can move the U shaped pieces about 5" out to the gunnels, where the
material is much thicker and where I can use bolts intead of screws. That
should take most of the upwards stress off the seat. But what will happen
to the jib? Will moving the jib lead angle further out ruin something?
Obviously it will change the shape of the jib, but I don't really know
enough to know if it will matter all that much.
Thanks.

John,

If you move the point where the jib leads first meet the boat outboard,
you will lose some ability to point up (sail into the wind).

Without seeing the structure you are dealing with, I am not going to try
to offer a repair method. If the boat is sailed as a class almost
anywhere, then there is probably a class association. Someone there
should be able to provide a good plan to repair.

Best of Luck,

Matt Colie

John wrote:
I have a 13' sailboat. The leads from the jib go to a seat mounted across
the boat, just behind the mast. First they go through U shaped piece and
then accross the seat to a cam-cleat.
The seat is attached by 6 screws, two to each side and two to the
daggerboard housing. (Please excuse the lack of proper terminology, but I
hope you will know what I mean.) Some of the screws have worked their way
loose, so I removed the seat to fix it.
The screw simply go into pretty thin fiberglass; there is nothing behind the
fiberglass. The screws have simply stripped out the fiberglass. I can put
down a couple new layers of glass, but I expect it will just strip out
again. There is no access to the bottom to add a backer.

So, my question...
I can move the U shaped pieces about 5" out to the gunnels, where the
material is much thicker and where I can use bolts intead of screws. That
should take most of the upwards stress off the seat. But what will happen
to the jib? Will moving the jib lead angle further out ruin something?
Obviously it will change the shape of the jib, but I don't really know
enough to know if it will matter all that much.
Thanks.

"Matt Colie" wrote in message
...
John,

If you move the point where the jib leads first meet the boat outboard,
you will lose some ability to point up (sail into the wind).

Okay; that's about the last thing I want to do!

Without seeing the structure you are dealing with, I am not going to try
to offer a repair method. If the boat is sailed as a class almost
anywhere, then there is probably a class association. Someone there
should be able to provide a good plan to repair.

Nope, it is a "Starwing". Never caught on, or the manufacturer went broke
too fast.

You can get some special threaded brackets made for the mounting bolts on
seat pedestals. Same idea as toggle nuts, that you can stick thru the holes
and hold in place w/ a plastic link until the bolt is screwed in. Otherwise,
flip the boat over and inject some thickened epoxy into the holes and
gravity will keep it in place.

"John" wrote in message
...

"Matt Colie" wrote in message
...
John,

If you move the point where the jib leads first meet the boat outboard,
you will lose some ability to point up (sail into the wind).

Okay; that's about the last thing I want to do!

Without seeing the structure you are dealing with, I am not going to try
to offer a repair method. If the boat is sailed as a class almost
anywhere, then there is probably a class association. Someone there
should be able to provide a good plan to repair.

Nope, it is a "Starwing". Never caught on, or the manufacturer went broke
too fast.

You can get some special threaded brackets made for the mounting bolts on
seat pedestals. Same idea as toggle nuts, that you can stick thru the
holes
and hold in place w/ a plastic link until the bolt is screwed in.
Otherwise,
flip the boat over and inject some thickened epoxy into the holes and
gravity will keep it in place.

I don't suppose you can reference that in an on-line catalog, can you...

It would be easy enough to put the boat up on sawhorses to fill the holes;
that is a good idea.

"John" wrote in message ...
The screw simply go into pretty thin fiberglass; there is nothing behind the
fiberglass. The screws have simply stripped out the fiberglass. I can put
down a couple new layers of glass, but I expect it will just strip out
again. There is no access to the bottom to add a backer.

I don't know what they are called, but what about using the screws
that you use for hanging picture frames on a plaster wall. On a wall
you drill a small hole in the plaster, pound the screw into the hole
with a hammer and then as you turn the screw the metal sheath deforms
and creates its own backer. Seems like it might work in your case.

Bob

These are called "molly-bolts". Problem is that they arent made in
stainless steel and if you use them on a boat they will corrode and
fail.

In article , Bob Gough
wrote:

"John" wrote in message
...
The screw simply go into pretty thin fiberglass; there is nothing behind the
fiberglass. The screws have simply stripped out the fiberglass. I can put
down a couple new layers of glass, but I expect it will just strip out
again. There is no access to the bottom to add a backer.

I don't know what they are called, but what about using the screws
that you use for hanging picture frames on a plaster wall. On a wall
you drill a small hole in the plaster, pound the screw into the hole
with a hammer and then as you turn the screw the metal sheath deforms
and creates its own backer. Seems like it might work in your case.

Bob

John wrote:
I have a 13' sailboat. The leads from the jib go to a seat mounted across
the boat, just behind the mast. First they go through U shaped piece and
then accross the seat to a cam-cleat.
The seat is attached by 6 screws, two to each side and two to the
daggerboard housing. (Please excuse the lack of proper terminology, but I
hope you will know what I mean.) Some of the screws have worked their way
loose, so I removed the seat to fix it.
The screw simply go into pretty thin fiberglass; there is nothing behind the
fiberglass. The screws have simply stripped out the fiberglass. I can put
down a couple new layers of glass, but I expect it will just strip out
again. There is no access to the bottom to add a backer.

So, my question...
I can move the U shaped pieces about 5" out to the gunnels, where the
material is much thicker and where I can use bolts intead of screws. That
should take most of the upwards stress off the seat. But what will happen
to the jib? Will moving the jib lead angle further out ruin something?
Obviously it will change the shape of the jib, but I don't really know
enough to know if it will matter all that much.
Thanks.



It will affect your pointing ability. The boat will not go to
windward as well.

Get some 5 minute epoxy, in twin tubes. Fill the screw holes with
mixed epoxy and toothpick wood. Drill and tap for new screws. To
tap for a screw, take an extra screw and a square fine file to cut a
tooth into the screw point threads, about 3 teeth. drill a hole,
then use the modified screw to cut thread into the set up epoxy /
wood. Turn it in and out, cleaning out the swarf until The thread is
deep enough, or use a backing piece, longer screw, or even a bolt
instead of a screw, possibly with a stainless "T" nut backer.

Terry K

Those who said that moving the jib sheet leads outboard, towards the
side of the boat, would reduce the boat's ability to sail towards the
wind were correct. This is a less than optimal solution; obviously
having the jib sheet leads rip out is no way to get to windward either.

Terry Spragg wrote:

Get some 5 minute epoxy, in twin tubes. Fill the screw holes with mixed
epoxy and toothpick wood. Drill and tap for new screws.

If the fiberglass is too thin to start with, this won't help. He needs
to put in some backing plates.

Cut a slightly larger than hand sized round hole in the side of the seat
under the thwart, where you can reach the underside of the screws. Put
backing plate under the screws- a small piece of Lexan does great.
Another material I like is HDPL cutting board... buy a kitchen cutting
board at Wal-Mart for $4.99 and get a whole set of backing plates.
Doesn't rot, plenty strong, and self tapping, too.

Now to seal up the access hole- if you want to do it properly, and get
back in there at some future date, get a pair of access hand-hole plate
from one of the marine suppliers. Another option is to save the cut-out
part and refiberglass it into place with a little resin & fiberglass
tape from Home Depot.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

3 sizes on page 590 of the 2004 west marine master catalog
made by Fasco

"John" wrote in message
...

You can get some special threaded brackets made for the mounting bolts
on
seat pedestals. Same idea as toggle nuts, that you can stick thru the
holes
and hold in place w/ a plastic link until the bolt is screwed in.
Otherwise,
flip the boat over and inject some thickened epoxy into the holes and
gravity will keep it in place.

I don't suppose you can reference that in an on-line catalog, can you...

It would be easy enough to put the boat up on sawhorses to fill the holes;
that is a good idea.