mildew on teak
 

I'm sure there is a better way but both this and last seasons, the humidity
got the best of us and the interior teak was inundated with mold. We removed
it to the eye but were told not to use any bleaching products on the wood.
There are minute black mold streaks in the wood grain now. We would like to
remove it all.

We planned to sand down everything this Fall and revarnish but does anyone
have any recommendations as to how the wood should be treated before
vanishing? We were also told Murphy's Oil Soap should be used sparingly.

Feedback of your experiences are welcome

Thank you!!

Subject: mildew on teak
From: "Michelle"

I'm sure there is a better way but both this and last seasons, the humidity
got the best of us and the interior teak was inundated with mold. We removed
it to the eye but were told not to use any bleaching products on the wood.
There are minute black mold streaks in the wood grain now. We would like to
remove it all.

Try OxyClean


We planned to sand down everything this Fall and revarnish but does anyone
have any recommendations as to how the wood should be treated before
vanishing?

After sanding wipe down with alcohol or acetone. Then tack off again.

I wouldn't use varnish. I use a good one part poly interior finish. Lasts much,
much longer, fast drying, coats can be added without sanding between each one
and water proof and alcohol resistant.

We were also told Murphy's Oil Soap should be used sparingly.

True.

Capt. Bill

I assume that your teak is BARE untreated teak - no oil finish, no
varnish, nuthin; but teak.

If so, get some *paraformalyehyde crystals* (MildewGaz®, etc.) -
available from West Marine, etc. Cover and seal the teak with Saran or
other plastic and add the crystals between the wood and the plastic.
The crystals will turn to gas and that will kill the mildew but will
take days or even weeks. Paraformaldehyde is a noxious toxicant so
keep the boat well ventilated when using. When the mildew is dead
(good and dead) scrub the wood with a dry brush (IMPORTANT**** wear a
respirator to prevent breathing the potentially very toxic mildew
spores).

If you haave a major mildew contamation close the boat tight, load up
on paraformaldehyde and kill ALL the hidden mildew ... or you will
continually reinfect every time the boat gets damp. Then get into all
the hidden places and scrub with caustic soaps to dissolve alll the
dead mildew. Be **sure** to wear a respirator and other body
protection when cleaning mildew

Otherwise, plan on sanding, bleaching, etc. Any 'soap' that you use
on bare teak will dissolve some of the wood cells and will/may turn the
area darker (can be lightened again by using successive very dilute
'washes' with oxalic acid).

Nothing beats a

;-)

There are minute black mold streaks in the wood grain now. We would like
to
remove it all.

Not sure if you really need to do this if you are going to sand. Were you
thinking of improving the appearance before the major sanding/varnishing?

Before varnishing I think it is generally recommended that you wipe down
with Acetone to remove surface oils. Teak is an oily wood.




"Michelle" wrote in message
...
I'm sure there is a better way but both this and last seasons, the
humidity
got the best of us and the interior teak was inundated with mold. We
removed
it to the eye but were told not to use any bleaching products on the wood.
There are minute black mold streaks in the wood grain now. We would like
to
remove it all.

We planned to sand down everything this Fall and revarnish but does anyone
have any recommendations as to how the wood should be treated before
vanishing? We were also told Murphy's Oil Soap should be used sparingly.

Feedback of your experiences are welcome

Thank you!!

I have used bleach to good effect, and vinegar to equally good effect. I
prefer the vinegar.

In article ,
"Michelle" wrote:

I'm sure there is a better way but both this and last seasons, the humidity
got the best of us and the interior teak was inundated with mold. We removed
it to the eye but were told not to use any bleaching products on the wood.
There are minute black mold streaks in the wood grain now. We would like to
remove it all.

We planned to sand down everything this Fall and revarnish but does anyone
have any recommendations as to how the wood should be treated before
vanishing? We were also told Murphy's Oil Soap should be used sparingly.

That's all personal preference. Personally, I used a strong TSP solution
to strip the old oils and dirt. Rinse with lots of water. Yes, it'll
raise the grain, but it's probably pretty porous already. It'll also
bring out the highlights of the wood, which can be stunning. A bit of
bleach wouldn't hurt if you want to lighten the interior up.

Trick I learned as a cabinent maker years ago: Sanding sealer first. I
like the lacquer-based version, but that can be tough to find -- and you
really want good ventilation. You'll sand almost all of it off, but it's
quick and easy. That'll leave a smooth surface that'll finish up quickly
and eliminate the nooks and crannies that breed the mold so easily.
Looks good, too.

I prefer spar (exterior) varnish as it fades less and lasts longer. Pics
of the results below. Mold was pretty much gone for a decade.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/