|
Courtney Thomas wrote: I've seen chromed ones that are quite high but would prefer to buy a sturdy plain one. Same for Samson post, etc.. BTW, what's a devil's claw ? Gratefully, Courtney Different people may use different terminology for this. In essence, it's a chain stopper (the term which may also vary, i.e., some will say a Chain stopper is used as a stopper for wire or wire rope). In my world, a "devil's claw" is a double hooked chain stopper which is used to firmly secure an anchor and anchor chain, for sea, in addition to a "riding pawl". otn |
where to get an inexpensive chain stopper ?
I've seen chromed ones that are quite high but would prefer to buy a
sturdy plain one. Same for Samson post, etc.. BTW, what's a devil's claw ? Gratefully, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
West Marine sells something called a Chain Grabber for $20.
We have used one for years and love it. Not sure if this is what you are after. Ours is just galvanized. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... I've seen chromed ones that are quite high but would prefer to buy a sturdy plain one. Same for Samson post, etc.. BTW, what's a devil's claw ? Gratefully, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
I bought a chain stopper from AquamarineUSA on eBay for $38. I don't yet
have it in my hands but it looks pretty substantial. "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... I've seen chromed ones that are quite high but would prefer to buy a sturdy plain one. Same for Samson post, etc.. BTW, what's a devil's claw ? Gratefully, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
"Courtney Thomas" wrote in message
... Doug, I don't see a chain grabber in the current W.Marine catalog buy do see a chain grabber for $20 in Hamilton Marine's. The add says the shackle holes are 1/2", which apparently requires a shackle to use. How exactly does the manufacturer intend that it be used, assuming it's like yours ? http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...play?storeId=1 0001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=20556 It took some looking but I found it. It slips over the chain like a logging chain hook would, but has two sides. Shackles through the holes, lines through the shackles and then yoked off to the forward cleats. I currently use the logging hook and rode method, but it's only one side, causing some imbalance. I might spring for the 20 bux, as it should cause it to ride straight. L8R Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
PS this is not what you'd originally asked about, I don't think. It's for
anchoring, not securing your anchor in the rollers... L8R Skip and Lydia -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain "Skip Gundlach" skip make this all one word with my last name next to my first gundlach@adelphia dot fish catcher net (sorry bout the spamtrap!) wrote in message ... "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, I don't see a chain grabber in the current W.Marine catalog buy do see a chain grabber for $20 in Hamilton Marine's. The add says the shackle holes are 1/2", which apparently requires a shackle to use. How exactly does the manufacturer intend that it be used, assuming it's like yours ? http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...play?storeId=1 0001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=20556 It took some looking but I found it. It slips over the chain like a logging chain hook would, but has two sides. Shackles through the holes, lines through the shackles and then yoked off to the forward cleats. I currently use the logging hook and rode method, but it's only one side, causing some imbalance. I might spring for the 20 bux, as it should cause it to ride straight. L8R Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
Doug,
I don't see a chain grabber in the current W.Marine catalog buy do see a chain grabber for $20 in Hamilton Marine's. The add says the shackle holes are 1/2", which apparently requires a shackle to use. How exactly does the manufacturer intend that it be used, assuming it's like yours ? Thanks, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: West Marine sells something called a Chain Grabber for $20. We have used one for years and love it. Not sure if this is what you are after. Ours is just galvanized. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... I've seen chromed ones that are quite high but would prefer to buy a sturdy plain one. Same for Samson post, etc.. BTW, what's a devil's claw ? Gratefully, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
Yes, that's what I seek, for anchoring.
Thank you. Courtney Skip Gundlach wrote: PS this is not what you'd originally asked about, I don't think. It's for anchoring, not securing your anchor in the rollers... L8R Skip and Lydia -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain "Skip Gundlach" skip make this all one word with my last name next to my first gundlach@adelphia dot fish catcher net (sorry bout the spamtrap!) wrote in message ... "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, I don't see a chain grabber in the current W.Marine catalog buy do see a chain grabber for $20 in Hamilton Marine's. The add says the shackle holes are 1/2", which apparently requires a shackle to use. How exactly does the manufacturer intend that it be used, assuming it's like yours ? http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...play?storeId=1 0001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=20556 It took some looking but I found it. It slips over the chain like a logging chain hook would, but has two sides. Shackles through the holes, lines through the shackles and then yoked off to the forward cleats. I currently use the logging hook and rode method, but it's only one side, causing some imbalance. I might spring for the 20 bux, as it should cause it to ride straight. L8R Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
I finally found it on WM. It's the same as the one at Hamilton Marine.
Since you already have a chain hook, why not use 2 shackles attached to the hook's shackle to balance it out port&starboard, and then you might not need the chain grabber at all. Courtney Skip Gundlach wrote: "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, I don't see a chain grabber in the current W.Marine catalog buy do see a chain grabber for $20 in Hamilton Marine's. The add says the shackle holes are 1/2", which apparently requires a shackle to use. How exactly does the manufacturer intend that it be used, assuming it's like yours ? http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...play?storeId=1 0001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=20556 It took some looking but I found it. It slips over the chain like a logging chain hook would, but has two sides. Shackles through the holes, lines through the shackles and then yoked off to the forward cleats. I currently use the logging hook and rode method, but it's only one side, causing some imbalance. I might spring for the 20 bux, as it should cause it to ride straight. L8R Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 17:49:48 -0500, Courtney Thomas
wrote: I finally found it on WM. It's the same as the one at Hamilton Marine. Since you already have a chain hook, why not use 2 shackles attached to the hook's shackle to balance it out port&starboard, and then you might not need the chain grabber at all. Courtney The pull of the eye is not inline with the slot of the hook...so it will always pull the link of the chain to one side. Pragmatically I don't know if this cant of the link would be significant unless one puts it to the test will some heavy and or prolonged load. In other words, if you just don't like that little, occasional, jerk, and are not going to leave for extended periods, I can't imagine it being a problem. ....but then, I'm not a metallurgical engineer. I just play one on TV....I just haven't found any work. |
Comments below.
Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, I don't see a chain grabber in the current W.Marine catalog buy do see a chain grabber for $20 in Hamilton Marine's. West Marine catalog page 723 lower right corner. The add says the shackle holes are 1/2", which apparently requires a shackle to use. Two shackles, one for each side to connect to a eye in the line. How exactly does the manufacturer intend that it be used, assuming it's like yours ? It is a bridle. A short line from each side of the Grabber (maybe 6-8') goes to each bow cleat. Chain is grabbed in the slot. It distributes the load across both bow cleats. Also helps to reduce swinging on anchor. Thanks, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: West Marine sells something called a Chain Grabber for $20. We have used one for years and love it. Not sure if this is what you are after. Ours is just galvanized. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... I've seen chromed ones that are quite high but would prefer to buy a sturdy plain one. Same for Samson post, etc.. BTW, what's a devil's claw ? Gratefully, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 09:15:55 -0500, Courtney Thomas
wrote: Wouldn't a fixed stopper be better in that... [it conceptually seems to me]... the chain could "fall out" of the grabber [I realize it's under tension] in that it has no restraining "lock", as do the fixed ones [in effect] ? ========================================== What we are talking about here is a "chain hook" not a "chain stopper". I have both on my trawler. THe chain stopper came as standard equipment and is deck mounted just forward of the windlass. It is of heavy duty bronze construction, with a pivoting pawl which flips down and grabs a chain link. I believe it may have been made by Galley Maid in FL but I'm not sure. Their phone number is 561-848-8696. Ask for Jimmy, he is alledged to know everything. The chain hooks were purchased at W-M. Mine are shackled to 3/4 inch nylon line via an eye splice and thimble. The slot in the hook is barely larger than a 3/8 chain link and tends to grab on fairly snuggly. I've never had one shake loose accidently and it would be virtually impossible unless the hook line were totally slack. |
Doug,
One final query.... Please don't regard my enquiry as being argumentative, rather a grasping by an inexperienced chain stopper user :-) Wouldn't a fixed stopper be better in that... [it conceptually seems to me]... the chain could "fall out" of the grabber [I realize it's under tension] in that it has no restraining "lock", as do the fixed ones [in effect] ? I guess you use it with the "slot" up ? Appreciatively, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: Comments below. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, I don't see a chain grabber in the current W.Marine catalog buy do see a chain grabber for $20 in Hamilton Marine's. West Marine catalog page 723 lower right corner. The add says the shackle holes are 1/2", which apparently requires a shackle to use. Two shackles, one for each side to connect to a eye in the line. How exactly does the manufacturer intend that it be used, assuming it's like yours ? It is a bridle. A short line from each side of the Grabber (maybe 6-8') goes to each bow cleat. Chain is grabbed in the slot. It distributes the load across both bow cleats. Also helps to reduce swinging on anchor. Thanks, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: West Marine sells something called a Chain Grabber for $20. We have used one for years and love it. Not sure if this is what you are after. Ours is just galvanized. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... I've seen chromed ones that are quite high but would prefer to buy a sturdy plain one. Same for Samson post, etc.. BTW, what's a devil's claw ? Gratefully, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
"Horace Brownbag" wrote in message
... On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 17:49:48 -0500, Courtney Thomas wrote: I finally found it on WM. It's the same as the one at Hamilton Marine. Since you already have a chain hook, why not use 2 shackles attached to the hook's shackle to balance it out port&starboard, and then you might not need the chain grabber at all. Courtney Couple of reasons we don't do the two-shackles bit... The first is that there's a line through the eye which more than takes up the space allotted. It must have been put in as new, cuz it surely doesn't want to move, now (inferred age, salt, UV caused expansion somewhat). The other is that the eye isn't big enough to accommodate two shackles, in any event - or, at least, not big enough that I'd want to trust them to heavy loads such as anchor yanks. The pull of the eye is not inline with the slot of the hook...so it will always pull the link of the chain to one side. Pragmatically I don't know if this cant of the link would be significant unless one puts it to the test will some heavy and or prolonged load. I don't expect the couple-inch-off-center pull, particularly 20 or so feet out, would make any difference that could be measured. However, being somewhat of a pragmatist but more of a neatnik (elegant solutions rather than Rube Goldberg), I'm resistant to three shackles just to be able to attach two lines to a device not designed for the task. In other words, if you just don't like that little, occasional, jerk, and are not going to leave for extended periods, I can't imagine it being a problem. ...but then, I'm not a metallurgical engineer. I just play one on TV....I just haven't found any work. :{)) I wouldn't expect a problem, either - however, using this rig (one sided pull) I lost the snubber, once (just fell off, that is - it was still attached to the rode when I pulled it in. I expect the Chain Grabber, being designed to the purpose, would be far less likely to accidentally dislodge. Back to our rode/hook, however: While we didn't think (well, technically, we hadn't been exposed to the concept yet) of it in time, we surely would have wanted to use that line and hook to offset to the waves on our last night offshore during our delivery/shakedown cruise. I've forgotten the name of the technique, but it amounts to attaching a second line to the anchor chain and running it to the stern, making a bridle. Adjust the length of the anchor line to point the bow as desired. It would have allowed our entirely beam-to, very rolly anchorage, to be head-on with the wind about 60* to starboard. Otherwise, we'd want to center the anchor, and the Chain Grabber looks to do that admirably, along with sharing the momentary loads with two lines rather than just one - which might allow lighter line, too. (Our current snubber line is 5/8 or 3/4 by eye, not having measured it.) L8R Skip and Lydia, watching Ivan move west and keeping our fingers crossed -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
It seems from other migrations of this thread that what's wanted in the
original wasn't a stopper... We have two hawse pipes with all chain on the two primary anchors, a vertical windlass for rope and chain, and no stoppers. Our prior owners made up a short airline cable Y with thimbles and nicopress (wish they'd shrink-wrapped them!!). Three caribiners connect to a pad eye and the two anchor chains. Not a tensioner, but certainly insurance against failure or moving out in lumpy water. That's pretty inexpensive :{)) L8R Skip and Lydia -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
So, to install a proper chain stopper if you don't have one, the
windlass would need to be removed, and repositioned allowing for the stopper ? Do you use the chain hook for the second anchor or what ? Appreciatively, Courtney Wayne.B wrote: On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 09:15:55 -0500, Courtney Thomas wrote: Wouldn't a fixed stopper be better in that... [it conceptually seems to me]... the chain could "fall out" of the grabber [I realize it's under tension] in that it has no restraining "lock", as do the fixed ones [in effect] ? ========================================== What we are talking about here is a "chain hook" not a "chain stopper". I have both on my trawler. THe chain stopper came as standard equipment and is deck mounted just forward of the windlass. It is of heavy duty bronze construction, with a pivoting pawl which flips down and grabs a chain link. I believe it may have been made by Galley Maid in FL but I'm not sure. Their phone number is 561-848-8696. Ask for Jimmy, he is alledged to know everything. The chain hooks were purchased at W-M. Mine are shackled to 3/4 inch nylon line via an eye splice and thimble. The slot in the hook is barely larger than a 3/8 chain link and tends to grab on fairly snuggly. I've never had one shake loose accidently and it would be virtually impossible unless the hook line were totally slack. -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
Hi, Courtney,
"Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... So, to install a proper chain stopper if you don't have one, the windlass would need to be removed, and repositioned allowing for the stopper ? Do you use the chain hook for the second anchor or what ? Appreciatively, Courtney I've not (yet) had occasion to double anchor other than to throw out the Fortress with mostly-rope rode when I was concerned about dragging once on the trip. I use the line-and-hook snubber, backed up with the cable-to-chain, further backed up with the chain in the gypsy. If I were using the secondary all-chain anchor, I'd also have the line-and-hook snubber (we have two) but only the cable-to-chain as backup. I'd probably go around the third cleat (a PO addition) with the chain as a final snubber insurance. In the case of the snubber rode, I leave a pretty fair amount of slack in the chain so as to make the rope rode/snubber have to stretch *a lot* before it would make the chain tug. I confess to using just the catenary in calm conditions. Having dragged a lot in the Virgins on the trash anchors the charter companies provide, I overdo my scope, usually aiming for 7-1. With a heavy chain, that provides a lot of yank resistance, anyway. If you were looking for a "serious" stopper/snubber, there are a variety of over-center tensioned ones listed in other responses. I see no reason one would remove the windlass, as an off-center pull would be more trouble in raising and lowering than in keeping it in place, at least IMO. If I were concerned to the level of wanting that sort of snubber, I'd put them aside the windlass just far enough out to avoid fouling the chain(s) on their way in and out. HTH... L8R Skip (and Lydia, who, today, is ready to shoot herself it she can't get on the boat pretty soon!) -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 11:04:28 -0400, "Skip Gundlach" skip make this
all one word with my last name next to my first gundlach@adelphia dot fish catcher net (sorry bout the spamtrap!) wrote: "Horace Brownbag" wrote in message .. . snip The pull of the eye is not inline with the slot of the hook...so it will always pull the link of the chain to one side. Pragmatically I don't know if this cant of the link would be significant unless one puts it to the test will some heavy and or prolonged load. I don't expect the couple-inch-off-center pull, particularly 20 or so feet out, would make any difference that could be measured. However, being somewhat of a pragmatist but more of a neatnik (elegant solutions rather than Rube Goldberg), I'm resistant to three shackles just to be able to attach two lines to a device not designed for the task. snip It's my understanding that it's the distance from the eye to hook, and the offset twixt the two. Under heavy load it will bend the link. Skip and Lydia, watching Ivan move west and keeping our fingers crossed Yeah....two is enough for one year. |
On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 11:49:45 -0500, Courtney Thomas
wrote: So, to install a proper chain stopper if you don't have one, the windlass would need to be removed, and repositioned allowing for the stopper ? If you have a strong point forward of the windlass there would be no need to move anything, otherwise probably yes, or more definitively, "it depends". :-) Do you use the chain hook for the second anchor or what ? Mostly I use it to relieve the load on the windlass before backing down hard on the anchor, and also for the duration of being anchored. (the chain stopper can also serve the same purpose). The advantage of the chain hook is two fold, the nylon line introduces some stretch and shock absorption, and also allows the load to be transferred to a hawse pipe which is at a lower angle that the pulpit roller. The bearings and shaft seals of a windlass do not like being under high load for any extended period of time, and will fail prematurely unless precautions are taken with either a chain stopper or chain hook line. |
Wayne,
I fail to see how to utilize a mounted stopper unless it's forward of the windlass,..... which in my case would require dismounting the windlass, installing a stopper, remounting the windlass; which means.... a bridled chain hook is looking, relatively, most appealing :-) Also, more stuff's got to break before the anchor chain's loose. What am I missing ? Thanks, Courtney Wayne.B wrote: On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 11:49:45 -0500, Courtney Thomas wrote: So, to install a proper chain stopper if you don't have one, the windlass would need to be removed, and repositioned allowing for the stopper ? If you have a strong point forward of the windlass there would be no need to move anything, otherwise probably yes, or more definitively, "it depends". :-) Do you use the chain hook for the second anchor or what ? Mostly I use it to relieve the load on the windlass before backing down hard on the anchor, and also for the duration of being anchored. (the chain stopper can also serve the same purpose). The advantage of the chain hook is two fold, the nylon line introduces some stretch and shock absorption, and also allows the load to be transferred to a hawse pipe which is at a lower angle that the pulpit roller. The bearings and shaft seals of a windlass do not like being under high load for any extended period of time, and will fail prematurely unless precautions are taken with either a chain stopper or chain hook line. -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 17:39:34 -0500, Courtney Thomas
wrote: I fail to see how to utilize a mounted stopper unless it's forward of the windlass,..... ==================================== That is correct, a mounted stopper must lie along the path of the chain between the windlass and the anchor roller. If you have no space available along that path, or if the space is not structurally strong enough to support high lateral loads, then a stopper is out of the question. A chain hook is certainly a reasonable alternative, with or without the bridle. |
Comments below.
Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, One final query.... Please don't regard my enquiry as being argumentative, rather a grasping by an inexperienced chain stopper user :-) Wouldn't a fixed stopper be better in that... [it conceptually seems to me]... the chain could "fall out" of the grabber [I realize it's under tension] in that it has no restraining "lock", as do the fixed ones [in effect] ? The purpose of the grabber is to distribute the load across the bow cleats. This reduces swinging at anchor. The chain would have to fall up in order to exit the grabber. A good sized loop of chain is left between the grapper and the bow, this keeps it in place. I guess you use it with the "slot" up ? Correct. Appreciatively, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: Comments below. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, I don't see a chain grabber in the current W.Marine catalog buy do see a chain grabber for $20 in Hamilton Marine's. West Marine catalog page 723 lower right corner. The add says the shackle holes are 1/2", which apparently requires a shackle to use. Two shackles, one for each side to connect to a eye in the line. How exactly does the manufacturer intend that it be used, assuming it's like yours ? It is a bridle. A short line from each side of the Grabber (maybe 6-8') goes to each bow cleat. Chain is grabbed in the slot. It distributes the load across both bow cleats. Also helps to reduce swinging on anchor. Thanks, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: West Marine sells something called a Chain Grabber for $20. We have used one for years and love it. Not sure if this is what you are after. Ours is just galvanized. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... I've seen chromed ones that are quite high but would prefer to buy a sturdy plain one. Same for Samson post, etc.. BTW, what's a devil's claw ? Gratefully, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
One more thing. The nice thing about the Grabber is that it eliminates
the noise of the chain rattling around on the bow roller all the time as happens with a stopper. The stopped is alot easier to use though. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, One final query.... Please don't regard my enquiry as being argumentative, rather a grasping by an inexperienced chain stopper user :-) Wouldn't a fixed stopper be better in that... [it conceptually seems to me]... the chain could "fall out" of the grabber [I realize it's under tension] in that it has no restraining "lock", as do the fixed ones [in effect] ? I guess you use it with the "slot" up ? Appreciatively, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: Comments below. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Doug, I don't see a chain grabber in the current W.Marine catalog buy do see a chain grabber for $20 in Hamilton Marine's. West Marine catalog page 723 lower right corner. The add says the shackle holes are 1/2", which apparently requires a shackle to use. Two shackles, one for each side to connect to a eye in the line. How exactly does the manufacturer intend that it be used, assuming it's like yours ? It is a bridle. A short line from each side of the Grabber (maybe 6-8') goes to each bow cleat. Chain is grabbed in the slot. It distributes the load across both bow cleats. Also helps to reduce swinging on anchor. Thanks, Courtney Doug Dotson wrote: West Marine sells something called a Chain Grabber for $20. We have used one for years and love it. Not sure if this is what you are after. Ours is just galvanized. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... I've seen chromed ones that are quite high but would prefer to buy a sturdy plain one. Same for Samson post, etc.. BTW, what's a devil's claw ? Gratefully, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
... One more thing. The nice thing about the Grabber is that it eliminates the noise of the chain rattling around on the bow roller all the time as happens with a stopper. The stopped is alot easier to use though. Well, perhaps, but I found the jerking which occurred if there was no give in the line annoying and also felt it couldn't be doing the boat any good. Thus my use of the nylon and hook whenever I thought it might help (waves, mostly, though a strong enough wind will take the catenary out of the longest chain)... L8R Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated by your friends." - James S. Pitkin |
A good long nylon snubber is essential with an all chain anchor system. It eliminates the "snatching" when you bounce up and down, it takes the strain off the windlass, and it adds some elasticity to the line not to mention the lack of clacking. I use a 30 ft snubber, increasing the length as the conditions worsen. Usually only 10 feet or so's out. Rick Itenson Breathless Toronto |
Right, that's why a chain grabber does a good job. Plus, a
grabber uses 2 lines so one has redundency if one chafes through. Doug s/v Callista "Skip Gundlach" skip make this all one word with my last name next to my first gundlach@adelphia dot fish catcher net (sorry bout the spamtrap!) wrote in message ... "Doug Dotson" wrote in message ... One more thing. The nice thing about the Grabber is that it eliminates the noise of the chain rattling around on the bow roller all the time as happens with a stopper. The stopped is alot easier to use though. Well, perhaps, but I found the jerking which occurred if there was no give in the line annoying and also felt it couldn't be doing the boat any good. Thus my use of the nylon and hook whenever I thought it might help (waves, mostly, though a strong enough wind will take the catenary out of the longest chain)... L8R Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated by your friends." - James S. Pitkin |
Right, and a grabber gives you 2 nylon lines which not only
gives the shock absorbing quality but also some redundancy. Doug s/v Callista "Rick Itenson" wrote in message ... A good long nylon snubber is essential with an all chain anchor system. It eliminates the "snatching" when you bounce up and down, it takes the strain off the windlass, and it adds some elasticity to the line not to mention the lack of clacking. I use a 30 ft snubber, increasing the length as the conditions worsen. Usually only 10 feet or so's out. Rick Itenson Breathless Toronto |
Details of the snubber itself as well as it's deployment would be
appreciated. Cordially, Courtney Rick Itenson wrote: A good long nylon snubber is essential with an all chain anchor system. It eliminates the "snatching" when you bounce up and down, it takes the strain off the windlass, and it adds some elasticity to the line not to mention the lack of clacking. I use a 30 ft snubber, increasing the length as the conditions worsen. Usually only 10 feet or so's out. Rick Itenson Breathless Toronto -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
"Courtney Thomas" wrote in message
... Details of the snubber itself as well as it's deployment would be appreciated. Cordially, Courtney In the case of the chain grabber of the prior discussions, you hook it into the chain before you're finished running out the rode, and pay out the two lines from the cleats until you have enough. That provides a shock-absorbing snubber In our case, the nylon rode with the chain hook as snubber, I hook the chain hook on led out through the chock and take a single turn around the cleat so I can maintain tension on the chain as it pays out. When I get enough out (I usually use it all - perhaps 50 feet - I cleat it off, and then let out another 10' or so of chain and use my caribiner (again as described in other threads as my on-board stopper) as security against a pull against the gypsy. The added length of chain makes it largely stay under water, unless the pull is very strong. You could also do what many do for docking snubbers and add a rubber length with several twists of line around it, exiting both ends in line, providing the rubber stretch in addition to the much stronger nylon stretch. Because I use so much length on my nylon, I've not found it necessary. Of course, I also use a great deal more scope than many ("ain't drug yet!")... In any event, there's no sensation of yanking due to all the nylon rode, but it's an all-chain rode in the event of severe conditions (severe enough to part the nylon rode snubber). Effectively what I've got is a very long chain leader to a nylon rode, vs the common 10-20-30 feet of chain followed by nylon The only downside (which would be cured with the chain grabber, which is symmetrical) is the slight port offset due to the actual pull on the boat being from the single cleat rather than the anchor roller. Retrieval is with the chain gypsy, and I just pay it in and coil the nylon as I go. When the hook arrives at the roller, I take it off and complete the retrieval. HTH L8R Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain Rick Itenson wrote: A good long nylon snubber is essential with an all chain anchor system. It eliminates the "snatching" when you bounce up and down, it takes the strain off the windlass, and it adds some elasticity to the line not to mention the lack of clacking. I use a 30 ft snubber, increasing the length as the conditions worsen. Usually only 10 feet or so's out. Rick Itenson Breathless Toronto -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
Courtney,
You might want to invest in a copy of The Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring by Earl R. Hinz. Well worth having. Doug s/v Callista "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Details of the snubber itself as well as it's deployment would be appreciated. Cordially, Courtney Rick Itenson wrote: A good long nylon snubber is essential with an all chain anchor system. It eliminates the "snatching" when you bounce up and down, it takes the strain off the windlass, and it adds some elasticity to the line not to mention the lack of clacking. I use a 30 ft snubber, increasing the length as the conditions worsen. Usually only 10 feet or so's out. Rick Itenson Breathless Toronto -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
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