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Wilcox head flush problem
Hello everyone
I have a 4 year old Wilcox Headmate head (model 1460). The head has seen relatively little use it has been installed and had been used in fresh water only. I noticed earler this season that it took more and more strokes to get fresh flush water into the bowl. This probelm got progressively worse until yesterday when the head stopped working altogether (thankfully on the last day of our vacation). Now, when trying to flush the tolet you can pump as long as you like but you get no flush water. (same effect as pumping with the boat out of the water). Pumping the bowl dry seems to function normally. Any help on where to satrt looking would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Matt |
b1bxkp76 Carolyn1 wrote:
Hello everyone I have a 4 year old Wilcox Headmate head (model 1460). The head has seen relatively little use it has been installed and had been used in fresh water only. I noticed earler this season that it took more and more strokes to get fresh flush water into the bowl. This probelm got progressively worse until yesterday when the head stopped working altogether (thankfully on the last day of our vacation). Now, when trying to flush the tolet you can pump as long as you like but you get no flush water. (same effect as pumping with the boat out of the water). Pumping the bowl dry seems to function normally. Something has created an air leak in the pump or intake hose that's preventing the intake hose from priming...it's just pulling in air. My money is on the flapper valve (part #9) on the drawing) at the top of the pump...especially, if you've never lubed the toilet. The other possibility is failed flap valve spring (part # 10). I suggest you give W-C call. Their phone # is on their website at http://www.wilcox-crittenden.com -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1 |
Peggie
Many thanks for your reply. It is very much appreciated. You are correct in your assumption that the toilet has never been lubricated. I'm embarassed to ask but how do you go about lubrucating a toilet? Thnaks for putting up with ignorant quesitons. Matt Peggie Hall wrote in message om... b1bxkp76 Carolyn1 wrote: Hello everyone I have a 4 year old Wilcox Headmate head (model 1460). The head has seen relatively little use it has been installed and had been used in fresh water only. I noticed earler this season that it took more and more strokes to get fresh flush water into the bowl. This probelm got progressively worse until yesterday when the head stopped working altogether (thankfully on the last day of our vacation). Now, when trying to flush the tolet you can pump as long as you like but you get no flush water. (same effect as pumping with the boat out of the water). Pumping the bowl dry seems to function normally. Something has created an air leak in the pump or intake hose that's preventing the intake hose from priming...it's just pulling in air. My money is on the flapper valve (part #9) on the drawing) at the top of the pump...especially, if you've never lubed the toilet. The other possibility is failed flap valve spring (part # 10). I suggest you give W-C call. Their phone # is on their website at http://www.wilcox-crittenden.com |
Peggie, highly informative, as always! My question: does the Lavac pump similar maintenance? I don't recall reading anything about it in the manual. Thanks! --Ernst Peggie Hall writes: Matt Koch wrote: You are correct in your assumption that the toilet has never been lubricated. I'm embarassed to ask but how do you go about lubrucating a toilet? Many people just wait till the toilet starts to squeak and become hard to pump, then pour some mineral oil or vegetable oil down it. That’s ok in an emergency, till you can get home and do it right, but it’s not the way to maintain the toilet. Not only is this very hard on the toilet, but it’s a never-ending job because anything thin enough to be poured down the toilet is also so thin that it washes out in just a few flushes. Why is it hard on the toilet? Because a toilet doesn’t squeak unless it needs lubrication; that squeaking is the sound of seals rubbing against the inside of the housing, being worn away. Waiting till it squeaks to lubricate it is like waiting till an engine starts to smoke to add oil. Ever wondered why a new toilet doesn’t need any lubrication for at least a year? It’s because every toilet leaves the factory slathered with thick synthetic Teflon grease that takes a full season or more to be flushed out. Replacing it just once a year is all it takes to keep a toilet pumping smoothly. And it’s only a 15 minute job—just open up the top of the pump and put a healthy squirt of it into it…pump the toilet a few times to get it all through the pump, and you’re “good to go” for the entire season. And, by keeping the pump lubricated this way, you extend the life of the seals and valves, reducing the need for rebuilds. The best time to lubricate a toilet is in the fall, as part of winterizing. The Teflon grease protects the rubber parts in the toilet from drying out, which also extends their life. I think you'll find the link in my signature useful. :) -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1 |
Matt Koch wrote:
You are correct in your assumption that the toilet has never been lubricated. I'm embarassed to ask but how do you go about lubrucating a toilet? Many people just wait till the toilet starts to squeak and become hard to pump, then pour some mineral oil or vegetable oil down it. That’s ok in an emergency, till you can get home and do it right, but it’s not the way to maintain the toilet. Not only is this very hard on the toilet, but it’s a never-ending job because anything thin enough to be poured down the toilet is also so thin that it washes out in just a few flushes. Why is it hard on the toilet? Because a toilet doesn’t squeak unless it needs lubrication; that squeaking is the sound of seals rubbing against the inside of the housing, being worn away. Waiting till it squeaks to lubricate it is like waiting till an engine starts to smoke to add oil. Ever wondered why a new toilet doesn’t need any lubrication for at least a year? It’s because every toilet leaves the factory slathered with thick synthetic Teflon grease that takes a full season or more to be flushed out. Replacing it just once a year is all it takes to keep a toilet pumping smoothly. And it’s only a 15 minute job—just open up the top of the pump and put a healthy squirt of it into it…pump the toilet a few times to get it all through the pump, and you’re “good to go” for the entire season. And, by keeping the pump lubricated this way, you extend the life of the seals and valves, reducing the need for rebuilds. The best time to lubricate a toilet is in the fall, as part of winterizing. The Teflon grease protects the rubber parts in the toilet from drying out, which also extends their life. I think you'll find the link in my signature useful. :) -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1 |
Peggie
Many thanks again for your very informative answers. It's a pleasure. matt Peggie Hall wrote in message om... Matt Koch wrote: You are correct in your assumption that the toilet has never been lubricated. I'm embarassed to ask but how do you go about lubrucating a toilet? Many people just wait till the toilet starts to squeak and become hard to pump, then pour some mineral oil or vegetable oil down it. That’s ok in an emergency, till you can get home and do it right, but it’s not the way to maintain the toilet. Not only is this very hard on the toilet, but it’s a never-ending job because anything thin enough to be poured down the toilet is also so thin that it washes out in just a few flushes. Why is it hard on the toilet? Because a toilet doesn’t squeak unless it needs lubrication; that squeaking is the sound of seals rubbing against the inside of the housing, being worn away. Waiting till it squeaks to lubricate it is like waiting till an engine starts to smoke to add oil. Ever wondered why a new toilet doesn’t need any lubrication for at least a year? It’s because every toilet leaves the factory slathered with thick synthetic Teflon grease that takes a full season or more to be flushed out. Replacing it just once a year is all it takes to keep a toilet pumping smoothly. And it’s only a 15 minute job—just open up the top of the pump and put a healthy squirt of it into it…pump the toilet a few times to get it all through the pump, and you’re “good to go” for the entire season. And, by keeping the pump lubricated this way, you extend the life of the seals and valves, reducing the need for rebuilds. The best time to lubricate a toilet is in the fall, as part of winterizing. The Teflon grease protects the rubber parts in the toilet from drying out, which also extends their life. I think you'll find the link in my signature useful. :) |
Dave wrote:
On Wed, 18 Aug 2004 19:47:20 GMT, Peggie Hall said: The Lavac pump is actually a Henderson manual diaphragm bilge pump...and should be maintained (lubricated/rebuilt) the same way as any other manual diaphragm bilge or holding tank overboard discharge pumps. They do need periodic lubrication...and synthetic Teflon or similar non-petroleum water soluble grease is recommended. Hmm. Since I'm just now rebuilding a Henderson Mk5 bilge pump, what gets lubricated? Only thing I could see is the external lever that actuates the diaphragm. I'd put a good coating of Teflon or silicon grease on all the rubber parts once a year to keep them soft and supple...it'll extend their life and contribute to smoother operation. Also wherever moving parts move against each other. Same grease is also good for y-valves and seacocks. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1 |
I was out of town and could not thank you earlier, Peggie. Therefo THANK YOU again for your very useful help! --Ernst Peggie Hall writes: Dave wrote: On Wed, 18 Aug 2004 19:47:20 GMT, Peggie Hall said: The Lavac pump is actually a Henderson manual diaphragm bilge pump...and should be maintained (lubricated/rebuilt) the same way as any other manual diaphragm bilge or holding tank overboard discharge pumps. They do need periodic lubrication...and synthetic Teflon or similar non-petroleum water soluble grease is recommended. Hmm. Since I'm just now rebuilding a Henderson Mk5 bilge pump, what gets lubricated? Only thing I could see is the external lever that actuates the diaphragm. I'd put a good coating of Teflon or silicon grease on all the rubber parts once a year to keep them soft and supple...it'll extend their life and contribute to smoother operation. Also wherever moving parts move against each other. Same grease is also good for y-valves and seacocks. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1 |
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