Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#8
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Yes, I've heard that the cable can become very stiff and this can cause
problems. I plan to fix the ends firmly in place with rubber covered metal clamps. I may go to crimping if I can find a place that can do a good job on this size cable. As for not using tinned cable, I guess this will work but it is very hard to heat up such thick copper cable and this might compromise a good all-round tinning of bare copper. "Doug Dotson" wrote in message ... Actually soldering terminals on such large cable is not recommended. The solder wicks up into the wire under the insulation several inches and results in a situation that is very suseptable to cracking over time to due to vibration. In any case, one normally tins the end of a wire before soldering it anyway. No need to pay top dollar when only the ends need to be tinned. Better to just crimp the terminals on and then seal against moisture using adhesive lined heat shrink. Doug s/v Callista "Gordon Wedman" wrote in message news:bTwOc.20$T_6.6@edtnps89... Lots of folks use welding cable rather than the tinned marine grade cable. It's alot cheaper and more flexible. In my case the welding cable was priced at $1.04/ft but I decided to buy the tinned battery cable at $1.69/ft because I planned to solder terminals to the end. I expect this will be more successful if I start with tinned cable. (I think the normal price for the 2/0 welding cable was something like $1.39 but they had a spool going for $1.04) "Doug Dotson" wrote in message ... I prefer to have the windlass and bowthruster to be powered primarily by the engine when it is running. The Eliminator from Ample Power is basically a DC/DC charger but it will add $300 to the project. Lots of folks use welding cable rather than the tinned marine grade cable. It's alot cheaper and more flexable. Just use adhesive lined heat shrink to seal the lugs on the ends to keep out the moisture. Doug s/v Callista "Dick Locke" wrote in message ... On Tue, 27 Jul 2004 17:36:58 -0400, "Doug Dotson" wrote: The concept is that that windlass battery is used so seldom that you can trickle charge it. Personally, I installed the heavy cable and generally only run the windlass when the engine is running. An extra battery, extra charger, etc seems more trouble than it is worth. OK, I see. Doesn't seem very reliable to me...solar/wind depends on good weather, AC-DC charger requires an inverter or being on shore power, and I'm not sure there's a DC-DC trickle charger. Doug s/v Callista ps. When did the word "ampacity" enter the alphabet? It's not in my vocabulary either, check the person who used it ;-) |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Windlass Electrical Connection | General | |||
SL Windlass Problem | Cruising | |||
When You Hear The Heavy Accent & The Poor Phone Connection... HANG UP!! ____ UGYAiMGRr | Electronics | |||
DC electrical system grounding | Electronics | |||
Electrical problem | Electronics |