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Gordon Wedman
 
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Default Windlass Electrical Connection

Lots of folks use welding cable rather than the tinned marine grade
cable. It's alot cheaper and more flexible.

In my case the welding cable was priced at $1.04/ft but I decided to buy
the tinned battery cable at $1.69/ft because I planned to solder terminals
to the end. I expect this will be more successful if I start with tinned
cable. (I think the normal price for the 2/0 welding cable was something
like $1.39 but they had a spool going for $1.04)

"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
I prefer to have the windlass and bowthruster to be powered primarily
by the engine when it is running. The Eliminator from Ample Power
is basically a DC/DC charger but it will add $300 to the project.
Lots of folks use welding cable rather than the tinned marine grade
cable. It's alot cheaper and more flexable. Just use adhesive lined
heat shrink to seal the lugs on the ends to keep out the moisture.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Dick Locke" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 27 Jul 2004 17:36:58 -0400, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

The concept is that that windlass battery is used so seldom that you

can
trickle charge it. Personally, I installed the heavy cable and

generally
only run the windlass when the engine is running. An extra battery,
extra charger, etc seems more trouble than it is worth.


OK, I see. Doesn't seem very reliable to me...solar/wind depends on
good weather, AC-DC charger requires an inverter or being on shore
power, and I'm not sure there's a DC-DC trickle charger.

Doug
s/v Callista

ps. When did the word "ampacity" enter the alphabet?


It's not in my vocabulary either, check the person who used it ;-)






 
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