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rhys
 
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Default Windlass Electrical Connection

On 27 Jul 2004 15:50:00 GMT, (Ray Cullum) wrote:

It has been suggested to me to place a small battery up close to the
windlass so you don't have to run heavy battery cable such a distance and
sustain the power loss.


The expense of the properly sized cable is daunting as well. I don't
have an electrical windlass, but everything I've heard seems to prefer
the dedicated battery, close to the windlass method. Ideally, it would
be sized for the application (i.e. 10 minutes of intense output, not
so often).

Small cable could be run to the battery strictly for
recharging.


I suppose that would work, or you could trickle charge it from solar
or wind directly. If you put switches and isolators in the circuit,
you can have a scenario where you have one "cranking" battery for the
engine, two "house" batteries for refrig., nav stuff, lights, etc.,
and one "windlass" battery. They could all be charged off a decent
sized charger when on shore power, but the alternator would primarily
charge the cranking battery, then the house batteries, then the
windlass battery. A combiner could reroute power where needed if a
battery fails or is otherwise compromised.

It sounds complex, and perhaps space would be an issue under 40 feet,
but it's workable.

Another way I am exploring to keep the wire runs shorter is to
relocate the charger and batteries under the port settee by the
mast....including the electrical panel.

Benefits: Short runs and easy access via head to terminal block for
mast wiring.

Ease of access in the most spacious part of the boat.

Gets wiring away from the companionway and opens up the nav station
there.

Gets batteries away from engine heat/spark.

Longest runs (to stern and bow nav lights) are 1/2 the boat length.
Mast nav light runs are reduced.

Downside: House battery run to engine starter is longer. Solution:
dedicated single cranking battery charged mainly by alternator.

Hope this helps...mainly me thinking aloud.

R.
 
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