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A friend wrote to me on Facebook. This was my response:
Hi Skip, Radar wrote: "Was this a result of the fiasco in the Keys and the boat damaged from the slamming there?" Hi, Radar, No, not at all. We'd done about 800 blisters in our original refit, and this bunch is just the continuation of the realities of a polyester resin hull. Likely this won't be the last. These faults likely would not have been known had my contractor, who was hired to remove the bottom paint, had not gone all the way to the hull, removing the tiny barrier coat which remained after all the blisters and the wreck repair, as there were no blisters evident on haulout (paint still on, where it was still present, of course). So, we tackled it, and got an education on blister remediation (no real cure other than to take the hull down all the way to cloth, removing all the chop, and re-applying several layers of cloth with vinylester resin, best for the intermediate layer as it's easier to work than epoxy, and less water vulnerable than poly, then barrier coat over that). We're not going to that step, but following LOTS of confirmation, started with a surveyor on a boat next to ours, which revealed that the best way to get the water-soluble stuff out of the hull is to wet it thoroughly, and then pressure wash off to remove that which leaches out, several times, we've hosed it down, followed by pressure washing, several times for that purpose alone, as well as more as we've been removing the PoliGlow from the topsides above the raw stuff, washing it off the hull as well. We've shown that to be efficacious by the recurrence - and development of new tiny places - of stuff coming out of the hull. Very little, now that we've done it a couple of times, and chasing the loose laminate until solid each time by grinding. Some places are down to the cloth, but most are just removal of chop which wasn't adequately wet out during layup. Then, we will go with AdTech fairing epoxy compound, rather than the laborious layup in the grind voids, based on more research which has been confirmed by more than one source, to fill and fair the hull. We COULD - but won't - add some layer of that over the hull overall. Instead, we'll lay on 30 mils or more of an epoxy based mil-spec barrier coat, then follow with bottom paint. Our last bottom job lasted 4 years, so we're hopeful we'll have the same level of success this time, using what should be better paint than the west stuff we used during our original refit. As to AdTech, we only learned of it yesterday, to our great relief, as we know what it's like to fill the grinds by laborious patch cloth cutting and wetting and so on with epoxy, which then, too, would require fairing and/or grinding to level. So, using a wide drywall knife, we'll rough-level the voids, then long-board sand it fair, covering any low spots after putting on a reveal compound (purple color, whatever remains after a light sanding is low), until it's fair. We'll end up with a hull much smoother than it was, after all the repairs which had been made in the past. All the research we've done suggests that blisters may continue to be revealed in the future. However, we'll not address that again, as it will be below a very substantial substrate, following a very throrough removal of all the opportunisticly available areas which have hydrolized compound in them (from the water bath treatments). Our boat had been peeled before, many years ago, and a (only) very thin barrier coat put on it. At the time, the method of "drying out" wasn't as well known; you can leave a boat in an oven for years and not have any change in the hydrolized compounds, as it takes - counterintuitively - water to thin them and get them out. Once out, of course, they'll not absorb water, again. If the impermeable layer (barrier coat) is thick enough, and impermeable enough, more water won't enter the substrate, and more blisters won't occur. Or, at least, that's our story, and we're sticking to it :{)) Thanks for asking. L8R Skip Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing, messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats. In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not." |
#2
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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A preview
On Mon, 2 May 2011 10:46:03 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote: A friend wrote to me on Facebook. This was my response: Hi Skip, Radar wrote: "Was this a result of the fiasco in the Keys and the boat damaged from the slamming there?" Hi, Radar, No, not at all. We'd done about 800 blisters in our original refit, and this bunch is just the continuation of the realities of a polyester resin hull. Likely this won't be the last. These faults likely would not have been known had my contractor, who was hired to remove the bottom paint, had not gone all the way to the hull, removing the tiny barrier coat which remained after all the blisters and the wreck repair, as there were no blisters evident on haulout (paint still on, where it was still present, of course). So, we tackled it, and got an education on blister remediation (no real cure other than to take the hull down all the way to cloth, removing all the chop, and re-applying several layers of cloth with vinylester resin, best for the intermediate layer as it's easier to work than epoxy, and less water vulnerable than poly, then barrier coat over that). We're not going to that step, but following LOTS of confirmation, started with a surveyor on a boat next to ours, which revealed that the best way to get the water-soluble stuff out of the hull is to wet it thoroughly, and then pressure wash off to remove that which leaches out, several times, we've hosed it down, followed by pressure washing, several times for that purpose alone, as well as more as we've been removing the PoliGlow from the topsides above the raw stuff, washing it off the hull as well. We've shown that to be efficacious by the recurrence - and development of new tiny places - of stuff coming out of the hull. Very little, now that we've done it a couple of times, and chasing the loose laminate until solid each time by grinding. Some places are down to the cloth, but most are just removal of chop which wasn't adequately wet out during layup. Then, we will go with AdTech fairing epoxy compound, rather than the laborious layup in the grind voids, based on more research which has been confirmed by more than one source, to fill and fair the hull. We COULD - but won't - add some layer of that over the hull overall. Instead, we'll lay on 30 mils or more of an epoxy based mil-spec barrier coat, then follow with bottom paint. Our last bottom job lasted 4 years, so we're hopeful we'll have the same level of success this time, using what should be better paint than the west stuff we used during our original refit. As to AdTech, we only learned of it yesterday, to our great relief, as we know what it's like to fill the grinds by laborious patch cloth cutting and wetting and so on with epoxy, which then, too, would require fairing and/or grinding to level. So, using a wide drywall knife, we'll rough-level the voids, then long-board sand it fair, covering any low spots after putting on a reveal compound (purple color, whatever remains after a light sanding is low), until it's fair. We'll end up with a hull much smoother than it was, after all the repairs which had been made in the past. All the research we've done suggests that blisters may continue to be revealed in the future. However, we'll not address that again, as it will be below a very substantial substrate, following a very throrough removal of all the opportunisticly available areas which have hydrolized compound in them (from the water bath treatments). Our boat had been peeled before, many years ago, and a (only) very thin barrier coat put on it. At the time, the method of "drying out" wasn't as well known; you can leave a boat in an oven for years and not have any change in the hydrolized compounds, as it takes - counterintuitively - water to thin them and get them out. Once out, of course, they'll not absorb water, again. If the impermeable layer (barrier coat) is thick enough, and impermeable enough, more water won't enter the substrate, and more blisters won't occur. Or, at least, that's our story, and we're sticking to it :{)) Thanks for asking. L8R Skip Which makes a far more sensible story then Wilbur's fantasy of transporting the boat to the Arctic for dehydration :-) Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
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