"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 11 Dec 2008 18:50:26 -0800 (PST), joost
wrote:

I am investigating the best way to fasten a 4 metre long alu t-track
for my whisker/spi pole to the alu mast.
...
And, how would I go with off-the-shelf T-track which is made for
countersunk heads?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Joost.

You might think about riv-nuts. Bigger hole in the mast, but much
more thread, when the riv-nut is pulled in place.

Brian W


Roll your own tool...

http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rivnut-tool.html

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:40:29 -0600, Richard
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:



No, I said to google on rivets and the part number. That will lead you
to a several sites that explain the rivet size coding's. But you are
right, anyone who's life is banging rivets in the side of an airplane
will be likely to understand rivet sizing (Size is in 32nds of an
inch).

But you don't need to use cherry rivets you can also use aluminum "pop
rivets". You may need to space them a little closer but they will hold
unless your track is tremendously over stressed.

The SS machine screws suggested will also work. Just coat them with
any of the various sealants - 3M 5200, Sekaflex, maybe even house
silicon sealant. They may be a little stiff to remove but I've been
doing it for years with no corrosion and no problems in removal.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

I kinds have an issue with screws in the mast.
Unless the wall thickness is at least 2x the diameter, there just isn't
a lot of thread in the mast.


Actually, it's a good idea to go with the largest diameter screw that
you can reasonably use. A screw will have more holding power than a
pop-rivet that doesn't have a backing plate, and more sheer strength,
regardless..

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:40:29 -0600, Richard
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:



No, I said to google on rivets and the part number. That will lead you
to a several sites that explain the rivet size coding's. But you are
right, anyone who's life is banging rivets in the side of an airplane
will be likely to understand rivet sizing (Size is in 32nds of an
inch).

But you don't need to use cherry rivets you can also use aluminum "pop
rivets". You may need to space them a little closer but they will hold
unless your track is tremendously over stressed.

The SS machine screws suggested will also work. Just coat them with
any of the various sealants - 3M 5200, Sekaflex, maybe even house
silicon sealant. They may be a little stiff to remove but I've been
doing it for years with no corrosion and no problems in removal.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

I kinds have an issue with screws in the mast.
Unless the wall thickness is at least 2x the diameter, there just isn't
a lot of thread in the mast.

Properly sized pull rivets would be a better choice for structural
reliability.

Maybe a big pain to install, but more secure...

FWIW...

Richard


The old rule of thumb was that the nut be one bolt diameter thick.
Admittedly that wasn't for aluminum nuts but my mast was put together
more then thirty years ago with stainless bolts and hasn't failed yet
:-)

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

I always use large aluminum pop rivets with a large, long handled rivet
puller. I also use sealant in the holes, but I also use a gasket of sail
cloth in between. The gasket I apply first with contact cement, then I drill
the holes, then the sealant. The gasket prevents mast paint damage as well
as protection from electrolytic corrosion. Whatever fastener system you use
should never be the weak link of the assembly and with the thin wall
thickness of the mast, screws are not an option and because of the thin
wall, many rivets are necessary to spread the load.
Steve

"joost" wrote in message
...
I am investigating the best way to fasten a 4 metre long alu t-track
for my whisker/spi pole to the alu mast.

Currently I have a short length of track (1 metre) which is fastened
with SS screws. I am not satisfied with this, because the screws react
with the aluminium of the mast and dissolve the thread. The track
comes off. I also find it quite difficult to drill and tap the holes
in the mast accurately sitting in a bosun's chair.

My question is whether it would be better to fasten the track with SS
rivets dipped in some isolating compound. At least I wouldn't have the
problem of the tiny threads corroding away and loosening the
fasteners. Also I think that I have a bit more tolerance for drilling
the holes + I can reuse the existing worn out holes to put the rivets
in (instead of tapping one size up).

But, how strong is it compared to screws?

And, how would I go with off-the-shelf T-track which is made for
countersunk heads?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Joost.

I didn't look in the PA catalog to confirm, but I think you are talking
about a "Big Daddy" riveter. I got mine from Jamestown Distributors some
years ago, then later found a better price at Defenders.
Seems that I have recently seen a different style that might be easier to
use, but I can't remember where.

"Marty" wrote in message
...
Richard wrote:
Marty wrote:

Richard wrote:

I've downloaded the catalog.
Will dig into it tonight offline.



BTW, now you're in trouble, check out their "Surplus" section,,, more
stuff that you never knew you needed.

Their local store is a dangerous place for me, I go in for a five dollar
item and come out a hundred bucks lighter... my wife is going to have
them ban me...

Cheers
Martin


Looks empty right now.


Richard, I just checked and they don't ship international,,, if you want,
you can have them shipped to me and I'll repackage it and mail it to
you,,, might take a few weeks with USPS but shouldn't cost too much.

Cheers
Martin

A bit higher priced, but outta go the job...

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|311440|311513&id=19303

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 23:16:45 -0600, Richard
wrote:


A bit higher priced, but outta go the job...

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|311440|311513&id=19303


Apart from the cryptic description "outta go" = ought to do ????
the URL was broke, and no combination of the ID's given would give up
the product.
Try again?

BrianW

On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 09:46:25 -0600, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|311440|311513&id=19303

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|311440|311513&id=19303


If you put around a link, it will post intact without breaking and
wrapping to a second line.

wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 09:46:25 -0600, Brian Whatcott
wrote:


http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|311440|311513&id=19303


http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|311440|311513&id=19303


If you put around a link, it will post intact without breaking and
wrapping to a second line.


Sorry about that, guys.
I just copied it from Defender's address bar.

Richard

Yes, it is a high quality tool. Mechanical advantage from gearing.
I just looked in the Princess Ann catalog, and their tool is a lot less
expensive! No more than I use mine I would assume the one from PA would have
been adequate.
I bought mine to save two trips to the rental store.

"Richard" wrote in message
m...

A bit higher priced, but outta go the job...

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|311440|311513&id=19303