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#1
posted to rec.boats.building
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Sinking
On Thu, 24 Jul 2008 13:33:01 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: Hi all, I have fixed this one for a while - I used the 2 big washers approach, and its completely watertight. - I'm not sure what to do long term - comment about getting it surveyed asap is what I would normally do, but it was surveyed 6 weeks ago, and passed with flying colours (min 5.5mm of steel). Makes you wonder why I paid for the survey. I'm going to remain watchful - even if another hole like this opens up I have a day or 2 to spot it and fix it, and given I work on the boat most days, I don't think it'll sink too fast. It also makes me think I need to seal up some ribs (so that the water will fill up one section of the boat good and deep, so be easier to detect/pump should it happen again), and put in some detection system. does anyone else have anything like this? cheers Jim When you think about it the two washers and bolt idea is perfectly sound. I have a "ground plate" bolted to the side of my fiberglass boat using exactly the same technique. When they did your "survey" did they take thickness readings of the hull? On a steel boat they should have done and furnished you with a drawing of the boat with the places where testing was done noted. Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom) |
#2
posted to rec.boats.building
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Sinking
On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 07:13:26 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote: When you think about it the two washers and bolt idea is perfectly sound. I have a "ground plate" bolted to the side of my fiberglass boat using exactly the same technique. // Bruce-in-Bangkok In my view, less than perfectly sound. The problem is a glancing contact that wipes off the seal and bolt - when you least need the added danger. Brian W |
#3
posted to rec.boats.building
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Sinking
On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:50:36 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote: On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 07:13:26 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok wrote: When you think about it the two washers and bolt idea is perfectly sound. I have a "ground plate" bolted to the side of my fiberglass boat using exactly the same technique. // Bruce-in-Bangkok In my view, less than perfectly sound. The problem is a glancing contact that wipes off the seal and bolt - when you least need the added danger. Brian W Maybe "your view" but all my thru-hulls are essentially two washers and sealant and the radio ground plate is essentially a large plate with four bolts through it, with sealant. Given that the boat was built in 1971 and hasn't lost a thru-hull or the ground plate yet just how hazardous is it, really. In addition, it is common practice for steel hull tugs and fishing boats to plug holes with a wooden plug. You don't really think a working boat runs for the ship yard just because it has a small leak do you? Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom) |
#4
posted to rec.boats.building
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Sinking
On Sat, 26 Jul 2008 09:54:30 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote: ... all my thru-hulls are essentially two washers and sealant and the radio ground plate is essentially a large plate with four bolts through it, with sealant. Given that the boat was built in 1971 and hasn't lost a thru-hull or the ground plate yet just how hazardous is it, really. In addition, it is common practice for steel hull tugs and fishing boats to plug holes with a wooden plug. You don't really think a working boat runs for the ship yard just because it has a small leak do you? Bruce-in-Bangkok Hmmmm... there are people who try to minimize the number of thru-hulls for just this reason. And plugging a leak pro temp with a wood wedge is not what anybody in their right mind would call 'perfectly sound' practice for permant repairs, Bruce. Brian W |
#5
posted to rec.boats.building
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Sinking
On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 23:09:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote: On Sat, 26 Jul 2008 09:54:30 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok wrote: ... all my thru-hulls are essentially two washers and sealant and the radio ground plate is essentially a large plate with four bolts through it, with sealant. Given that the boat was built in 1971 and hasn't lost a thru-hull or the ground plate yet just how hazardous is it, really. In addition, it is common practice for steel hull tugs and fishing boats to plug holes with a wooden plug. You don't really think a working boat runs for the ship yard just because it has a small leak do you? Bruce-in-Bangkok Hmmmm... there are people who try to minimize the number of thru-hulls for just this reason. And plugging a leak pro temp with a wood wedge is not what anybody in their right mind would call 'perfectly sound' practice for permant repairs, Bruce. Brian W There may be "people who try to minimize" but they damn sure aren't in the boat manufacturing business. Every "made to sell" yacht I see in the yard has more holes in it then a honeycomb. Seriously Brian, do you really believe that a tugboat, fishing boat or other working boat stops work and hurries off to the yard when they discover a small leak? If you do then you are miss led as they don't. They keep on earning money until they can't work any more. Nobody, except you, talked about permanent repairs. Not the OP nor I. He specifically asked about an emergency, or short term repair and with that in mind I answered him. Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom) |
#6
posted to rec.boats.building
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Sinking
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jul 2008 13:33:01 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: Hi all, I have fixed this one for a while - I used the 2 big washers approach, and its completely watertight. - I'm not sure what to do long term - comment about getting it surveyed asap is what I would normally do, but it was surveyed 6 weeks ago, and passed with flying colours (min 5.5mm of steel). Makes you wonder why I paid for the survey. I'm going to remain watchful - even if another hole like this opens up I have a day or 2 to spot it and fix it, and given I work on the boat most days, I don't think it'll sink too fast. It also makes me think I need to seal up some ribs (so that the water will fill up one section of the boat good and deep, so be easier to detect/pump should it happen again), and put in some detection system. does anyone else have anything like this? cheers Jim When you think about it the two washers and bolt idea is perfectly sound. I have a "ground plate" bolted to the side of my fiberglass boat using exactly the same technique. When they did your "survey" did they take thickness readings of the hull? On a steel boat they should have done and furnished you with a drawing of the boat with the places where testing was done noted. Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom) ---------------- you could certainly start epoxy coating or epoxy/fiberglass cloth coating the hull, either from the semi dry bilge or even outside (in the water) the hull with common 'apply underwater' epoxies. - although cathodic (electrical charge) issues - known or unknown - are a possibility and will prevent underwater bonding. In the chemical industry - pitted pipelines etc. are common wrapped in epoxy and fiberglass cloth wraps - to reinforce the piping and restore pipe thickness... paul progressive epoxy |
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