Fixin the MiniCup spars
The original plans for the MiniCup calls for a 1/4-20 u-bolt to join
the gaff and boom so they can move relative to each other. Unfortunately, the boom's thin metal has torn (after 4 yrs of use) so the were going to separate. So, I got a piece of 2X4 and cut it to fit into the end. I cut two pieces, drilled a hole lengthwise thru each and inserted a long 5/16 bolt after I bent the shank near the eyes slightly. I opened one of the eyes and joined the two eyes. Then I glassed over eacjh of them to make em stronger and inserted them into the spar ends and screwed them into place thru the aluminum. It ought to be fairly strong. |
Fixin the MiniCup spars
wrote in message ... Does anyone have a ballpark or minimum figure on building one? I realise prices will vary from area to area. Thanks |
Fixin the MiniCup spars
On Jun 7, 4:23 pm, "Phil" wrote:
wrote in message ... Does anyone have a ballpark or minimum figure on building one? I realise prices will vary from area to area. Thanks I believe it could be done reasonably for $400. This would not use the cheapest materials but not the best either. I'd really like to see a modern stitch and glue version of the MiniCup. |
Fixin the MiniCup spars
wrote in message ... I believe it could be done reasonably for $400. This would not use the cheapest materials but not the best either. I'd really like to see a modern stitch and glue version of the MiniCup. Thanks, thought about building one a couple of years ago , with the gas prices I'm giving it some serious thought this time. |
Fixin the MiniCup spars
On Jun 8, 7:48 am, "Phil" wrote:
wrote in message ... I believe it could be done reasonably for $400. This would not use the cheapest materials but not the best either. I'd really like to see a modern stitch and glue version of the MiniCup. Thanks, thought about building one a couple of years ago , with the gas prices I'm giving it some serious thought this time. I think that by using 3 mm ply, stitch and glue instead of the stringers the plans have and then glassing with 4 oz. glass, the new MiniCup could be made considerably lighter than the old version. I'd use 18 oz biax around the mast step and daggerboard hole and maybe 8 oz around the cockpit edges. |
Fixin the MiniCup spars
On Jun 8, 12:00 pm, wrote:
On Jun 8, 7:48 am, "Phil" wrote: wrote in message ... I believe it could be done reasonably for $400. This would not use the cheapest materials but not the best either. I'd really like to see a modern stitch and glue version of the MiniCup. Thanks, thought about building one a couple of years ago , with the gas prices I'm giving it some serious thought this time. I think that by using 3 mm ply, stitch and glue instead of the stringers the plans have and then glassing with 4 oz. glass, the new MiniCup could be made considerably lighter than the old version. I'd use 18 oz biax around the mast step and daggerboard hole and maybe 8 oz around the cockpit edges. BTW, do not use normal mild steel screws as I did, order stainless from Jamestown Supply. After 4 years, my boats that are sailed in salt water have the screws under the epoxied joints rusting and expanding creating a mess at the edges. I had to dig all of them out on one boat and glass over the joint. This year I have to do the second boat the same way. |
Fixin the MiniCup spars
wrote in message ... BTW, do not use normal mild steel screws as I did, order stainless from Jamestown Supply. After 4 years, my boats that are sailed in salt water have the screws under the epoxied joints rusting and expanding creating a mess at the edges. I had to dig all of them out on one boat and glass over the joint. This year I have to do the second boat the same way. That was the one thing I'm not going to skimp on , it will be used in a high salt brackish water. |
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